
Acknowledgments
I wish to thank all of the folks at Crossing Press, publishers of the original version of this work, especially Elaine Goldman Gill and Dennis Hayes, for understanding and helping to preserve the contributions of the old time bakers who plied their craft worldwide. Special thanks to Marcia Pudalov who convinced me that I could write the book, Elaine Greenstein who supplied me with motivation whenever it was lacking. Julia Greenstein, who was so proud of me and promoted the book wherever she could. At Ten Speed Press, thanks to Aaron Wehner and Dennis Hayes whom I suspect were influential in bringing the book into the Ten Speed family. Thanks to my editor, Meghan Keeffe, whose stewardship kept me honest and on schedule who was steering me always forward; and to all the folks at Ten Speed who were involved in this project. Thanks to my friend, Arthur Schwartz, author, radio personality, and culinary instructor, who gave me as much or more constant support and exposure than any person. And Nach Waxman at Kitchen Arts and Letters in New York, my biggest fan, my mentor, my friend—thank you, Nach.
Copyright © 1993, 2007 by George Greenstein Front cover photos © by Nathan Benn/CORBIS (top) and Leigh Beisch (bottom)
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Original published in different form in the United States by The Crossing Press, in 1993.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Greenstein, George.
Secrets of a Jewish baker: recipes for 125 breads from around the world / George Greenstein.—Rev.
p. cm.
1. Bread. I. Title.
TX769.G734 2007
641.8′15—dc22 2006101194
eISBN: 978-0-307-83446-1
food styling by Dan Becker and prop styling by Emma Star Jensen
v3.1
For my wife, Adele,
with love
for her patience, assistance,
and perception
CONTENTS

How to Make the Rye Bread Sing
There is something sensual about kneading dough. Touching and molding it is a true hands-on experience. Savor the yeasty aroma. It’s exciting to start with flour and water and feel the mixture come to life with an almost magical quality, stimulated by the gentle pressure of your hands.
I have spent my life working with my hands in pursuit of the perfect loaf. What is the perfect bread? How does one know when it has been found? Who is qualified to judge?
One night, working alone while the others were asleep, I was standing in front of a huge oven. Behind me was a wire rack containing more than two hundred loaves, hot and just removed from the oven. All was still in the bakery that very first time when I heard the rye bread sing. I turned and stood listening, at first without comprehension, then a smile, recognizing the sound—for me, a melody!
Occasionally, when making bread, everything comes together in harmony. The dough is flawless and the surrounding conditions are ideal. When the rye bread is removed from the oven, the crust begins to crack in the cooler air and form a finely veined appearance like alligator skin. To the baker’s ear, the almost imperceptible crackling, multiplied a hundredfold, is a song of praise for the perfect loaf.
CHAPTER ONE
Basic Materials
In all my years as a professional baker, one of the most satisfying tasks has always been bread baking. What a wonderful reward there is when freshly baked loaves are placed on the dinner table, still warm from the oven. One often sees a look of awe on people’s faces when they’re told that the bread before them is homemade.
It has been my experience that many excellent cooks and bakers are intimidated by the thought of making bread at home. Yet bread baking can be made simple to understand for both the novice and the experienced baker. Errors can be easily corrected so that beginners’ first attempts are successful, and with a little practice, professional results can be achieved.
This book is more than just another collection of recipes. It is all about getting professional results using simple and foolproof bread-baking methods, while utilizing modern, time-saving systems without the need for expensive equipment. Whether this is your first attempt at bread making or you are an old hand, this book can be used as a complete bread-baking manual that will produce results sure to delight.
Nutrition and a balanced diet are continually taking on more important roles in our lives. Baking your own bread allows you to take more control of your family’s diet. You can use natural, salt-free, low-fat, and low-cholesterol ingredients to make breads that will enhance your family’s meals. Fiber-rich grains are easily added to breads, and many breads can be produced without sweeteners. Most assuredly, baking bread is one way to improve your family’s nutrition and add to the enjoyment of your daily meals. I must stress at this point that all of the recipes in this book adhere to one simple rule: All of the recipes must taste good. None of this Styrofoam and cardboard nonsense foisted upon the American palate.
In the ensuing pages I share with you many of my hard-won and dearly paid for professional secrets. My father was a European trained baker and we operated bakeries in Queens and in Long Island for a total of over 30 years. I worked in food service in the army from 1952 to 1954. We operated bakeries in Long Island until his demise, then I continued together with my wife, Adele, until 1991. In that time I attended professional baking classes given in New York City under the auspices of the Baker’s Union, and developed my own apprenticeship program for on the job training of disadvantaged young people. The professional recipes that we accumulated over the years, fine-tuned by us both, or those that Dad or I developed, were the basis for the formulary I devised for the home baker. The old European bakers jealously guarded their recipes and methods. I remember an elderly hunchbacked giant of a man grudgingly permitting a novice to weigh out the ingredients for a recipe that was about to be mixed. When it came to the critical ingredients, such as leavening, salt, spices, or flavoring, the master baker always seemed to find an excuse to send the novice to the storeroom for supplies or to the sink for a clean utensil. While the young man was gone, the baker would furtively add the important ingredients so that the newcomer would not be able to memorize the complete recipe.
A friend who taught me much always cautioned me never to take a recipe from another baker unless I mixed it and baked it myself while the other baker stood by and instructed. Otherwise, much to my sorrow, I would belatedly learn that some key ingredient had “accidentally” been omitted from the recipe.
Not many young people are coming into the baking industry. Oddly, in this time of increased awareness about good foods, we are threatened with the loss of time-honored traditional techniques, along with the natural flavor of many foods. Fortunately there has been an insurgence in artisanal baking, resulting in a new awareness of fine bread baking, mainly French and Italian breads. What were considered peasant breads, not much more ingredient-wise than flour and water, natural leavening, and salt, have been embraced by the new bakers all across our country. People have been willing to pay a premium for these breads. But beware, once these bakers start to produce commercial quantities for distribution outside of their handcraft shops, shortcuts and high volume production methods strip away many of the handcrafted qualities. In France today, and other European countries, the village bread baker is being compelled to purchase commissary-produced breads, either frozen, ready to bake, or prepared mixes that are in no way chemical and preservative free, or naturally fermented. The consumer must be alert to these type of changes. Mass production and chemical additives pervade our food supply. For example, years ago my father made wine at home. He began with the grapes, crushed them in a wine press, and fermented the mash naturally, without additives. Today, one buys a grape concentrate in a kit that comes complete with a chemistry set.
I have seen many of our wonderful breads disappearing from the marketplace. I hope that those interested in real food and real bread will find in this book some of the joy of creating a variety of good breads in their own kitchens.
Getting Started
The bread recipes that follow require very little equipment. Most or all of it can be found in your home. The doughs can be mixed and kneaded by hand, although each recipe is also formulated for use with a stand mixer or a food processor. I do not recommend that you purchase a machine when beginning. If you already own one, you may find that it’s more informative and more fun to work by hand at first. It is also possible to gain valuable experience by mixing with the machine and finishing the kneading by hand for the last few minutes.
Here is a list of the basic equipment necessary for getting started.
Oven Thermometer
This is of premier importance, because other than the oven itself, this is the instrument that you will most need to become a successful baker. It is the only tool that you should certainly purchase before beginning. I suggest a good oven thermometer made of stainless steel with a glass tube filled with a mercury-like substance. The round dial type that uses a metal coil tends to be very inaccurate after some use. I strongly recommend using a thermometer every time you bake. Oven thermostats take a lot of abuse from prolonged heat and become inaccurate with time. Accurate baking temperatures are critical for a properly baked loaf. The oven should be preheated and checked with a thermometer each time you bake.
Mixing Bowls
Several large bowls should be on hand. Stoneware or earthenware bowls are the best, since they are heavy and make mixing easier. They retain heat well, so the temperature remains consistent and the dough rises easily. Other ceramic bowls or heavy plastic bowls are also good. Stainless steel bowls can be used, but I find that they transfer heat too quickly and might slow down the rising time.
Wooden Spoons
Several large wooden spoons make mixing easier.
Rubber Spatulas
Several rubber or silicone spatulas of different sizes are handy. If you can, seek out the real rubber or silicone ones instead of the plastic ones found in most shops. The spatulas I have are made in France and do a wonderful job. Better cookery shops carry them.
Plastic Bowl Scraper
A plastic bowl scraper with one straight edge across the bottom and a curved edge on top is an inexpensive tool of a hundred uses. The curved edge is good for scraping dough from a mixing bowl, and the straight edge can be used as an inexpensive dough cutter and work-top scraper. It is also handy for scraping dough together in the initial stages of kneading. Scrapers can be purchased in kitchen or gourmet cooking shops or restaurant supply houses. Some scrapers have multiple curves and no straight edge. The straight-edge type is much more functional; it pays to search them out.
Dough Cutter (optional)
A dough cutter (also called a bun dough cutter) is a rectangular metal scraper with a wooden or plastic grip. Bakers use it for many cutting and scraping chores, but a plastic bowl scraper (above) and wide putty knife can suffice. Dough cutters are available in restaurant supply houses and some cooking catalogues. They are not expensive, and a good one should last a lifetime. In my bakery, we used the Dexter brand.
Measuring Cups
Have on hand two or more graduated measuring cups, one for liquid ingredients and one for dry ingredients.
Measuring Spoons
A set of measuring spoons is essential. If you own two sets, use one for wet ingredients and one for dry.
Pastry Brush
A small, 2-inch-wide brush, such as a paintbrush, preferably with natural bristles, is used to brush bread with liquid, such as water or eggs, before baking. The process is called washing. In a pinch you can use your fingers.
Rolling Pin
A rolling pin is rarely used in bread making. Unless you have one at home, do not purchase one when you begin baking. Most of the breads can be shaped with your hands. A 16-inch length of an old broomstick makes a perfect rolling stick (lightly sandpaper the ends). This is what we used in my bakery for rolling out small pieces of dough or pastry. A similar length of hardwood dowel can be purchased in a hardware store or lumberyard. A pie stick or French rolling stick, a commercially available wooden stick that is thicker in the center and tapers toward each end, does a nice job on small items, and has the advantage of overcoming the tendency to roll out the center of the dough thicker than the outer edges, a common error difficult to overcome.
Work Surface
Large hardwood boards are convenient for kneading and molding dough, and they are easy to clean. The kitchen counter, a table, or a piece of Formica or composite board will suffice. It is most important to work at a comfortable height. I have a hardwood board that I set aside exclusively for baking. After each use I apply a light coat of vegetable oil to keep the wood from drying out after washing. Most bakers scrape their wooden workbenches with a bench scraper (see Dough Cutter, above) and avoid using water on the wood as much as possible.
Loaf Pans
Two to four loaf pans are recommended, approximately 8½ inches by 4½ inches by 2½ inches (sizes may vary). Inexpensive steel meatloaf pans bake better than aluminum ones do but require seasoning (see this page). Black metal or Teflon-coated pans are also fine but do not warrant the expense of purchasing new ones. A shiny pan tends to keep the bread crust from baking to a rich dark color. If a shiny pan is used, when the bread is almost done remove it from the pan and place it on the oven rack for the last 5 minutes of baking. This will allow the crust to brown nicely.
Baking Sheets
One or two baking (cookie) sheets, preferably rimmed, are helpful for baking bread and rolls. See the recommendations for Loaf Pans (above). Buy the heaviest gauge metal for uniform baking.
Muffin Tins
Have on hand several muffin or cupcake tins of a size that suits you, whether standard, jumbo, or miniature.
Getting Serious
The following additional equipment can be acquired by the serious baker over a period of time.
Baskets
Reed or cloth-lined wicker baskets are used as forms for rising bread. The dough is generally dusted with flour and inverted when placed into the basket. When the loaves are turned out, the basket leaves a distinctive pattern that bakes into the crust of the bread.
Bread Pans
FRENCH BREAD PAN. The serious devotee of French bread may wish to purchase a set of baguette pans, each of which looks like a length of split tube or stovepipe. They are usually made up in two or four sections and help bake perfectly formed loaves of French bread. They can also be used to achieve a uniform shape for French rolls. The loaves or rolls are allowed to rise directly in the lightly greased pans in which they are baked. Perforated pans are preferred in commercial bakeries, but the plain ones are more than adequate.
PULLMAN PAN. This long, straight-sided bread pan has a cover that slides onto the top, locking the dough inside. It bakes a square loaf useful for sandwiches and party loaves. Without the cover it can be used for a square-sided pound cake.
Grinders and Graters
Grinders and graters are used in many applications, to grind or grate many ingredients such as bread crumbs, nuts, cheese, and onions. There are recipes that call for ground or grated potato. I grind my own peanut butter; poppy seeds are ground for poppy butter, and for many applications both in the home and throughout the book. In my bakery, we had a large meat grinder which fit onto the head of the stand mixer. The same grinder is available for the KitchenAid and other mixers of its kind. We used it for serious grinding of nuts, raw potato and onion for Potonik and potato breads, and onion breads, among others. With the popularity of the food processor or blender, these are used by the majority of home bakers. In my opinion, their only negative is that they’re a bother to clean. I avoid them for small jobs. I must also include the electric coffee grinder. I have an older one, set aside for grinding spices, seeds, small batches of nuts, and so on. Grinders are very handy and affordable. There is a profusion of hand graters on the market and I would like to expand upon two of them. These do a great job (no pun intended) when small batches are required. Easy cleaning is the catchword. One is the Zyliss (or similar brands), a hand-held rotary grinder made with a washable plastic body, a small hopper on top that contains the ingredients, and a handle that covers the hopper and feeds the ingredients through a stainless steel cutter. Simple to use, it is effortless to take apart for easy cleaning and storage. The other is the Microplane, an adaptation of a file, and it is made of stainless steel that is easily rinsed. It is quite sharp yet very safe when used with a little care, and excels in grating cheese, lemon zest, and so on, and it is easier on the fingers than the old and still reliable box grater (four sided, each side allowing for fine to coarse grinds). The Foley Food Mill, an old reliable standby, can rice potatoes, among other applications. There is also an available hand press for ricing that works well.
Oven Stones or Tiles
Bread bakes best with radiant (indirect) heat. In my bakery we had special brick-lined ovens, which radiated heat evenly throughout the oven. Home bakers seek to duplicate these conditions by using clay tiles (quarry tiles) or an oven stone placed on a shelf in the oven. There is no need to purchase tiles or a stone when you begin. Later, if you bake often, these will allow you to bake crusty bread as many bakeries do, by placing the bread directly on the floor of the oven, called the hearth. Oven or pizza stones are sold in cookery shops and department stores. I use ordinary red clay quarry tiles, which can be purchased from any well-stocked ceramic tile distributor. I brought my wire oven rack to the store with me, and they graciously cut the tiles to fit. These tiles are very inexpensive and can be left in the oven during regular cooking and baking. Leave a bit of space on the sides and front so that the heat can circulate better. Another method is to place the tiles on a baking sheet and slide the sheet in and out of the oven with the bread directly on the tiles. I would say that the tiles are better when placed on a rack and positioned in the center of the oven. The only time the hearth would be noticeably better is when baking pizza. It should be pointed out that this can only be done in a gas oven. In electric ovens it would have to be placed on a rack as close to the bottom as possible.
An interesting recent innovation is the HearthKit, available for advanced baking of crusty sour rye, Jewish corn bread, artisan breads, pizza, and more. The HearthKit is made of an earthen ceramic-like composite, duplicating the firebrick type of hearth used in many commercial bakeries. It is composed of a base that slides into your oven, either on a rack or on the oven floor. Two sides, slightly curved, slide onto the base and curve inward toward the top. The material is preheated in the oven and creates radiant heat, which helps develop crustier breads, yielding rye, French, and Italian breads as good as those you can obtain in many fine bakeries. The HearthKit comes with its own thermometer and needs about 15 to 20 minutes to come to proper temperature. The extra time required is not much of a loss; the stone retains the heat and the oven recycles (the burner turning on and off) less frequently. The bottom can be used alone, on the floor of a gas oven, or on a rack in an electric oven, to produce great pizza. I know of some folks who bake steaks and chops directly on the base and claim the results to be extraordinary. Casserole dishes and roasts can be baked at higher temperatures and develop earthier flavors. Leaving the HearthKit in place alleviates the need to pull it in and out of the oven. It is heavy. Leaving it in the oven for food baking improves the quality of the baked dishes.
Baker’s Peel
A baker’s peel—a wooden pallet with or without a handle—is convenient for sliding bread directly onto the oven hearth (or onto an oven stone or clay tiles). Baking on the oven hearth always produces a better crust than baking bread in a pan does. Sometimes you can allow the bread to rise directly on a cornmeal-dusted peel before sliding the loaf into the oven. A suitable substitute for a peel is a piece of heavy corrugated cardboard. I once saw an artist using a clean painter’s palette as a makeshift peel.
Stand Mixer
Most bakeries mix bread in a stand mixer. I do not recommend purchasing a stand mixer in the beginning unless you intend to make bread regularly or plan to use it for other purposes. When you feel that you are ready for a mixer, make sure you purchase one that’s guaranteed to mix up to 8 cups of flour when making bread dough. Standard equipment should include a wire whip, a flat beater (paddle), and a dough hook. I use a KitchenAid with a 5-quart capacity bowl (model K5SS).
The newest addition to the KitchenAid line is a large-capacity heavy-duty mixer with a 575-watt motor and a 6-quart bowl. It will accommodate 12 to 14 cups of flour. If you use this mixer, I suggest doubling the 2-loaf recipes to yield 4 loaves. It is possible to prepare 6 loaves or double the 3-loaf recipes, but be careful not to overload the motor with too stiff of a dough, and do not exceed 14 cups of flour.
Better breads can be produced with a mixer than by hand, although most people do not know how to use the full kneading power and capacity of their machines. Most people simply take a recipe for making bread by hand and process it in the machine instead; in this book the proper methods for using a stand mixer are fully explained, and recipes are given for its use. A stand mixer allows the baker to develop the full elasticity of the dough by kneading heavier doughs for longer periods of time than is reasonable by hand. The pros know that kneading is more effective when the proper capacity of the mixer is utilized. Even in the smallest bakery, it would be unusual to find less than three different-size mixing bowls being used. The capacity of a good kitchen mixer requires larger amounts of dough than most hand recipes call for. Accordingly, the recipes for machine mixing are written for larger yields. To prepare a smaller, 2-loaf recipe in a mixing machine, use the ingredient list provided for the hand-mixed recipe.
Food Processor
I like to call the food processor “the whiz” because it can whiz through many tedious chores in the kitchen. Many people like to use it for bread, and I have adapted most of my recipes accordingly. Nothing matches the speed of the processor. However, the capacity of the machine is limited by the size of the work bowl. Most processors have a 4-cup capacity, limiting the baker to one loaf of bread. Larger processors are available that allow for bigger batches. If you own one of the larger machines, simply adjust the recipes. Some mixing techniques can double processor yields. I usually make two loaves of bread in my standard machine, and most of the recipes here reflect this practice. In addition I now use a 14-cup capacity food processor that easily allows for two loaves of bread.
Flame Tamer
A flame tamer is used over the stop top burners to diffuse the heat allowing the heat to spread evenly across the bottom of a pot. This prevents scorching and aids in controlling the simmer. There are wire mesh ones for gas stoves and solid disks for electric stoves.
Thermometer
An instant-reading mini chef’s, or baker’s, thermometer with a 1-inch round dial has innumerable uses for the baker. Utilize it to quickly check temperatures of dough, liquids, and even your refrigerator or freezer. Do not leave it in the oven while cooking and baking. My thermometer reads from 0°F to 220°F. It has a 5-inch metal probe and stores in a plastic sheath with a handy clip for keeping it in a pocket or an apron. These thermometers are available in restaurant supply houses and gourmet cookery shops.
Yardstick
A yardstick is perfect for measuring dough on the work surface. Also, the thickness of the stick can often be used as a guide when rolling out thin doughs.
Ingredients
The following brief descriptions of essential ingredients used by professionals will help you produce quality breads with ease and confidence. I’ll begin with the ingredients available in most bakeries and discuss the way the baker makes use of them and how they differ from ingredients available to home bakers. Included are substitutions and suggestions for finding local sources for hard-to-obtain ingredients. There are also tips on storage and some bakers’ secrets and shortcuts.
Flour
Flour, even the same brand, differs in various sections of the country. The amount of flour called for in a bread recipe is always variable—3 to 4 cups, for example. The reason is that the amount of moisture the flour absorbs depends upon many factors, including the age of the flour, when and where the wheat was grown and stored, the amount of humidity in the air, temperature, altitude, and so on. The baker adjusts for these variables by altering the amount of flour while mixing or kneading the dough. This requires a little experience, which you will quickly acquire as you bake. Once the proper measure of flour is established for a recipe, if you use the same brand, the amount of flour needed will stay fairly constant throughout any given season.
BAKER’S SECRET
When fresh bread flour is allowed to age for 5 to 6 weeks, its potency is increased and its color improved.
Modern flour, when used for making bread, does not have to be sifted. Professionals only sift flour in certain cake recipes where it is necessary for very light and tender results. Breads are basically flour and water, and sifting will make no difference in the final product. Bakers adjust for differences in weight due to settling and moisture absorption by varying the amount of flour when mixing. Modern flour is clean and free from foreign matter. If for any reason the purity of the flour is in question, sifting would certainly be in order. Otherwise, in all the recipes flour is not sifted unless so specified.
The main differences between baking at home and in a bakery are found in the flour. The flours in the bakery are not generally available to the home cook. Most consumer markets carry at least two types of flour: all-purpose flour and cake flour. Bread flour (high in gluten content) is now readily available in many parts of the country. Specialty flours, such as white rye, pumpernickel, and stone-ground whole wheat flour, are often available, too. The most difficult to find is First Clear or Clear Flour (same thing). I have included some mail-order sources. Try a friendly local bakery, but if they do not make real Jewish sour rye bread, they will not be using this flour. Cake flour is generally unsuitable for yeast-raised bread doughs. Keeping extra flour on hand is a good practice.
ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR. This is a hard wheat flour either combined with a small proportion of soft wheat flour or milled with a lower protein content than the high-gluten flour used in commercial bakeries. This flour is in general use for home bread recipes. While in some recipes its use is a compromise, it excels in others (see “short-patent flour,” below). All-purpose flour is available bleached and unbleached; the unbleached has a slightly higher protein content. Most of the recipes in this book are formulated for use with unbleached all-purpose flour. All recipes suggest the appropriate bakery flour to use, if available.
HIGH-GLUTEN OR BREAD FLOUR. This flour has the highest content of gluten, or protein, of all the flours. It is milled from hard winter wheat and used for light-textured rolls, breads, and yeast cakes. In my bakery I used high-gluten flour milled from hard wheat grown in Montana and North Dakota, since I consider these the finest available. Some Canadian high-gluten flour is equally as good. It was not available in the United States for many years, but now can be found in some markets. In the olden days, bakers called this king, or strong, flour. It is now available in many supermarkets labeled as bread flour. If not, ask the store manager to order it for you.
SHORT-PATENT FLOUR. Lower in gluten content than high-gluten flour, short-patent flour is used where the bread requires a denser texture, as with biscuits and many pie crusts. The best example of short-patent flour is White Lily brand flour, a product of the South that’s starting to show up in stores across the country. All-purpose flour falls in between the high-gluten and short-patent flours in protein content and can be substituted in place of either. All-purpose flour is not used in commercial bakeries. Years ago, bakeries chauvinistically called short-patent flour weak, or queen, flour. (The terms king, queen, and common—see below—allowed the flour bins to be labeled without regard to brand names. I suspect that many bakers could not read or write well but were able to memorize K, Q, and C, or the number of letters in the words. This type of labeling was seen in bakeries as late as the 1950s.)
Some French and Italian breads are formulated with a blend of high-gluten and short-patent flour, lowering the gluten content and therefore avoiding large air pockets and a denser texture. All-purpose flour gives somewhat similar results.
CLEAR, FIRST CLEAR, OR COMMON FLOUR. Often referred to as common flour or simply clear flour, this is the least refined of the bread flours. Lower in gluten content and darker in color than other flours, it is used primarily in rye breads. Rye flour has no gluten and has to be mixed with a wheat flour in order to rise. The common flour keeps the desired off-white color of the rye while providing enough gluten for the bread to rise. The lower protein content allows for a dense texture, which makes it a good sandwich bread and gives it the chewy bite sought for in rye bread. Use of common flour is one of the secrets of making real Jewish rye bread. The best source is a local bakery, or try specialty shops that carry flour made from different grains. Perhaps they will even order it for you. Otherwise, try mail order.
WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR. Milled from the whole kernel of the wheat, this flour includes the germ and outer husk, which are rich in nutrients. Stone-ground whole wheat flour is preferable because it is roughly ground and therefore coarsely textured, which makes a better-eating loaf. Stone-ground milling also causes less destruction of the desirable nutrients. This type of flour is now widely available. Stores that sell loose flour by weight are the best sources in terms of freshness and price. Refrigerate or store this flour in a cool place; since the wheat germ contains fat, it can spoil quickly in hot, humid weather.
CAKE FLOUR. Also called high-ratio cake flour, this flour is used in fine, light cakes and batters. It allows a higher ratio of sugar to shortening or fat to be absorbed, making for a richer, lighter cake. When short-patent flour is not available for breads, the baker often uses a scoop or two of cake flour to lower the gluten content of a high-gluten flour. Home bakers can also use this trick to lower the gluten content in all-purpose flour.
PASTRY FLOUR. Used in short doughs (doughs that are very tender and flaky, not chewy) with a low sugar-to-shortening ratio, this flour makes fine pie crusts, pastry doughs, and cookie doughs.
RYE FLOUR. Often call white rye, this flour is milled from rye grain. Off-white or slightly gray in color, it is used mainly for rye breads and rye rolls. As has been noted, rye flour has no gluten and will not rise unless combined with flour that does contain gluten. Rye flour is available from gourmet or wholesale supply houses, but the best sources are a friendly local baker, natural foods store, or food cooperative. Note that rye flour is now available in local markets and is labeled “white rye.”
BAKER’S SECRET
For rye breads, some bakers dust with rye flour, which adds its own flavor to the bottom crust when baked. Italian bakers dust with semolina flour for the same reason. In an emergency, I used finely ground bread crumbs to dust peels in my bakery. Although crumbs tend to burn in the oven and can generate smoke, they got us through days when no dusting meal was available.
PUMPERNICKEL FLOUR. This medium-ground rye flour, somewhat coarse and light brown in color, is similar to bran in appearance. Pumpernickel is usually labeled medium rye, not pumpernickel, in commercial packaging.
CORNMEAL. Milled in fine to coarse granules, cornmeal is used for southern-style corn bread, muffins, corn sticks, and New England johnnycakes. Cornmeal is available as yellow or white cornmeal; most bakers use the yellow variety, which is less costly. There is no difference in flavor. New Englanders seem to prefer white cornmeal in many of their recipes. An extra-fine grind, known as corn flour, is used in some recipes. Stone-ground cornmeal is coarser, less processed, and has less heat applied so that some of the desirable flavors seem intensified.
SEMOLINA FLOUR. This pale yellow flour, high in gluten content, is made from fine durum wheat, which gives it a light yellow color and a slightly chewy texture when properly prepared. It is used for Italian semolina bread and in better pastas.
DUSTING FLOUR OR MEAL. A baking pan or peel is dusted so that the unbaked loaf of bread does not stick. Fine yellow cornmeal is most often used for dusting.
Yeast
The home baker has several choices available when selecting yeast. In each choice, I have indicated my personal preferences.
ACTIVE DRY YEAST. Active dry yeast packets need no refrigeration, have a long shelf life, and will work properly if not outdated. The life of the packets can be further extended by refrigerating or freezing. I always keep dry yeast packets in the refrigerator or freezer. In very warm or tropical climates, dry yeast (rather than compressed fresh yeast) should always be used. Active dry yeast is available in bulk packages, which must be refrigerated. If you do a good deal of bread baking, the savings gained by using bulk yeast is phenomenal and worth the effort to locate a source. Try a wholesale yeast or bakery distributor, or natural foods stores. Recipes in this book call for amounts of yeast by number of packages. If you are able to obtain bulk active dry yeast, use 1 scant tablespoon for each package the recipe calls for.
BREWER’S YEAST. Brewer’s yeast, rich in B vitamins, cannot make dough rise, but it is sometimes added to enrich bread.
COMPRESSED FRESH YEAST. In my bakery we used compressed bricks of fresh yeast, delivered twice weekly to ensure freshness. Although most bakers feel that fresh yeast is more powerful than the dry type—that it creates a livelier dough with a yeasty aroma—I generally do not recommend using it in home baking. Fresh yeast is extremely perishable. It must be kept under refrigeration, and I do not like to store it for more than 1 week. If you use it, be wary of purchasing it in a supermarket, because it may have been there a long time. Try to persuade your friendly local baker to sell you some. Unless you take a full cake of yeast, you may be given a small precut piece that may have been kept too long and has begun to dry out. The yeast should be smooth looking and of even color, without many streaks in it. The edges will start to brown lightly after several days. This is perfectly all right. One ounce of fresh yeast is equivalent to two envelopes of active dry yeast.
Since dry yeast is more expensive than fresh, if a great amount of baking is being done I would consider using fresh yeast. I sometimes take a 1-pound cake of compressed yeast, crumble it up, and keep it in the freezer, well wrapped. The evening before I intend to use it, I break off a small bit and refrigerate it for use the next morning. It keeps quite well frozen. If you freeze fresh yeast or are unsure of any yeast you use, I recommend proofing it by adding a pinch of sugar and dissolving it in a small portion of the warm liquid called for in the recipe. After 5 to 10 minutes it should begin to foam or bubble, indicating that it’s still viable and may be used.
RAPID RISE YEAST. Rapid rise yeast, which supposedly acts twice as fast as regular yeast, in my opinion will give you breads that are half as good. Bread with full-bodied flavor and aroma requires dough that has been fully aged. Like good wine, it should not be rushed; it requires slow, full rising, as described in the recipes. I feel that the higher temperatures called for when using rapid rise yeast are too hot and adversely affect the finished product. If you do use rapid rise yeast, use it in the same way as the regular type.
Bakeries sometimes rush a dough with the addition of extra yeast; the results are never superior. Sometimes people suggest double amounts of yeast, or more, for quick results. Save your precious time and energy and bring home a loaf of store-bought bread. Having gone through the work of mixing, kneading, rising, baking, and cooling, you are entitled to a quality result for your efforts. Even if you have never baked before, your very first attempt will result in a wonderful bread if you follow directions carefully.
Eggs
When added to bread dough, eggs enrich the dough, add flavor and color, and soften and expand the bread as it rises, making it more tender. In my bakery we used fresh eggs, shelled frozen eggs available as whole eggs, enriched eggs (one extra yolk to two, or more whole eggs), egg whites, and sugared yolks. In a bread recipe where one egg is used per each cup of liquid, two egg whites or a cholesterol-free egg substitute may replace one whole egg. This does not necessarily hold true when a greater proportion of eggs to liquid is called for. Do not be afraid to experiment.
Salt
When used in yeast doughs, salt retards the growth of yeast cells. This allows you to control the aging of the dough in addition to adding flavor to the bread. In most recipes a ratio of 1 to 1½ teaspoons salt to each 3 cups flour is maintained. Recognizing the need to reduce the amount of sodium in the diet, I have cut back the salt in most of the bread recipes to the minimum ratio of 1 teaspoon salt to 3 cups flour. Of course, you can vary these amounts to suit your own taste.
Nondairy Substitutes
Nondairy substitutes for milk, sour cream, and yogurt can be used to convert dairy recipes to pareve (nondairy). Brands seem to change over time. When preparing pareve recipes, I currently use the certified kosher Coffee Rich brand creamer in either powder or liquid form in place of milk. And I use Tofutti’s nondairy sour cream in place of its dairy counterpart as well as Tofutti’s cream cheese in place of cheese for cheese fillings and other applications. Experiment with these products and seek out new products on the Internet. For a nondairy streusel substitute, use margarine or shortening for butter.
Skim Milk Powder
The addition of milk to bread doughs imparts flavor, adds color to the crust, and acts as a tenderizer. Milk is high in protein, calcium, and important vitamins. In this book, skim milk powder is used. Among its many advantages are that it is easy to store and it can be mixed in dry. Nutritionally, it is more desirable than whole milk, since it provides all the benefits without the fat. It’s also economical. There is no discernible difference in flavor in the finished bread, whether you use skim milk powder or whole milk.
Buttermilk is also available as a powder. Use ¼ cup powder to 1 cup water. It can be added dry and mixed with the rest of the ingredients. See this page for an easy way to make your own buttermilk using skim milk powder.
Shortening, Fats, and Oils
Shortenings, fats, or vegetable oils, when used in bread dough, tenderize the bread, make it soft or flaky, add flavor (especially with butter or olive oil), improve texture and bite, and add keeping qualities to the finished bread (due to moisture retention). A hard fat or shortening as opposed to a liquid produces a finer texture and more tolerance in the rising. Because people are becoming more conscious about the merits of consuming liquid vegetable oils, I have tried to substitute liquid vegetable oils for hard fats, both vegetable and animal. Often you can substitute measure for measure. Those recipes that are much better with hard fats can generally be changed to half hard, half liquid. Experiment—that is one of the bonuses of baking your own bread.
Also note that in the current trend to remove trans fat from our diet, the manufacturer of Crisco brand shortening has introduced a shortening containing no trans fat—a considerable reduction since the original version includes 12 grams of fat per tablespoon of which 3 grams, or 25 percent, are trans fat. The product produces satisfactory results, though not quite like the original. When baking certain cakes and cookies where all shortening or half and half butter and shortening is recommended, I suggest first trying half butter and half vegetable oil, such as olive oil, safflower oil, or canola oil.
Sources
It is somewhat fruitless to try to include specific information about sources of ingredients for the baker. Sources disappear with time, sales policies are altered, and what is available in one part of the country is not in another. Some national flour mills merchandise their flour using different brand names in different areas. Conversely, flours with the same brand name can differ from one region to another.
In my area there is a wholesale bakers’ cooperative that sells retail on certain days of the week during specific hours. Seek these out in your own area. Call wholesale bakery supply houses and inquire if they sell small amounts to walk-in customers. Ask for recommendations. Many retail bakers will sell fresh ingredients in small amounts. Cultivate a working relationship with these folks. A bakery that does not make its own sour rye bread will probably not have clear flour (see this page) on hand, but they might be able to put you in touch with someone who does.
Neighborhood food co-ops often have ingredients not found elsewhere. Natural foods stores and gourmet shops are good sources, too. Large markets in rural areas are sometimes as well stocked as wholesale suppliers. Some urban supermarkets carry more bakers’ supplies than others. Seek them out. Markets in ethnic areas are always excellent sources. Network: ask friends who bake or those who are gourmet cooks. If you find a flour that is hard to come by, take home an extra supply, because it may not be available in warm weather, or the supplier may receive only one or two shipments per year. Ask the store manager when in doubt. Flour can be stored for months in a cool, dry area and can be refrigerated or frozen.
And finally, don’t overlook the Internet as a source for specialty baking ingredients and supplies. These days you can buy just about anything on the Internet, including flour. Of course, shipping can be a substantial expense, so you’ll probably want to use these sources only for ingredients that you require in small amounts or infrequently.
Correcting Misconceptions
Over the years, neighborhood bakeries have adopted many modern techniques and labor-saving devices, making many traditional steps and old ways unnecessary. This book gives you the benefit of the best small-bakery recipes presented in the simplest and most efficient form. However, a few misconceptions are so widespread as to warrant addressing them here.
Proofing Yeast
In years past we always proofed the yeast—proved that it was active—before adding it to the mix. This was accomplished by dissolving the yeast in a portion of water with a pinch of sugar to see if the yeast began to bubble upon standing. With modern yeast, we no longer proof unless the potency is suspect. This holds true for the active dry yeast packets used in the home kitchen. If the yeast is not outdated, there is no need to proof it. One must, however, activate the dry yeast by dissolving it first in warm water (105°F to 115°F). Mixing can then proceed at once. If the water feels warm to your fingertips, it will be fine for the yeast. Use a thermometer the first few times, and you will quickly learn to judge the proper temperature by feel.
Another mistaken practice is to add sugar to the warm water when dissolving yeast in the normal mixing process. It was thought that the yeast had to be fed to begin activation. Warm water alone will awaken the yeast, which will feed on natural sugars in the flour. Nothing additional is required.
Scalding Milk
I am often surprised to see a modern recipe that calls for scalding whole milk in a yeast dough. The reason for this is very simple: there is an enzyme present in whole milk that is able to destroy the yeast cells, causing the dough to rise poorly or preventing it from rising at all. Bakers very quickly learned that by scalding the milk, the enzyme was destroyed. In addition, all processed whole milk is pasteurized, and most whipping cream now available is ultra-pasteurized, meaning sterilized. Pasteurization and sterilization are heat processes, and the enzymes in question are no longer present in our milk, so there is no reason to scald it. Unless raw whole milk is used, you may safely ignore a requirement for scalding milk in any bread recipe. Thinking this through, it should become apparent that powdered milk has been manufactured with a heat process that destroys the enzyme. When a formula specifies skim milk powder, it is used as a dry ingredient and the dough is made in the normal manner.
Vinegar in Sourdough Bread
Sourdough breads are made from a sour, or starter, which is a batter of flour and water allowed to ferment under controlled conditions and used as a base for making the breads. I am appalled by recipes that call for vinegar to be incorporated into the dough to create sourdough bread and rolls. Sourdough breads and rolls made from a proper sour, or starter, have no vinegary flavor. The sourdough process adds a pre-fermented base to the bread dough, which results in a dough that is more aged and a crumb with more moisture. It creates better texture and produces superior flavor.
Sour, fermented by wild yeast present in the air, was used as leavening to make breads rise as far back as ancient Egypt. It often produced erratic results. With the advent of modern yeast, we use the sour for flavor and aging and rely on yeast for controlled leavening. Some artisan breads should only be naturally fermented. Hand a baker a slice of bread and he or she will most likely smell the bread before tasting. Smell the aroma of real sour rye or sourdough wheat bread and you will instantly become an expert at recognizing it.
CHAPTER TWO
Bread Making A to Z
This chapter contains everything you need to know about bread making, from an all-but-forgotten secret about making pumpernickel bread (see “Altus,” this page) to common mistakes that even the pros make and how to avoid or correct them. Also included in this chapter are directions for the preparation of ingredients such as homegrown sprouts, toasted nuts, pumpernickel color, and homemade buttermilk, and instructions for shaping loaves. Important in baking professional-looking bread, proper shaping has a vital effect on the quality of the finished loaf, and I’ve explained how to craft free-form loaves, French baguettes, pan loaves, and more.
Almond Paste
Almond paste has many uses in baking and pastry making. In commercial bakeries, it is often replaced by kernel paste, made from apricot pits, or macaroon paste, a mixture of almond paste and kernel paste. Almond paste is expensive, and the supermarket variety (of which the canned version is best) is not as good as the commercial product. Try to purchase this at a local bakery, but make sure that you are not paying for pure almond paste if what you are buying is kernel paste. You can make your own almond paste as follows, but be aware that it will only approximate the real almond paste.
½ pound (about 1¾ cups) whole, blanched almonds
4 tablespoons water
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 teaspoon almond extract
In a food processor, grind the almonds with 2 tablespoons of the water until smooth when rubbed between your fingers.
In a heavy saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons water. Add the sugar and corn syrup; heat slowly until the sugar melts, then bring to a boil. Cover and boil for 3 minutes.
Remove the lid but do not stir. Using a candy thermometer, heat the mixture to 240°F (soft-ball stage). Remove the pan from the heat and add the almond extract.
With the processor running, slowly add the hot syrup to the almonds until the paste forms a ball and tries to ride up the blade. Allow to cool.
Refrigerate in a sealed plastic bag or tightly covered container for at least 1 week to allow the flavor to develop. Bring to room temperature before use.
YIELD Makes about 1 pound.
Altus
European in origin, altus is little known outside of bakeries. When introduced to altus, many people think of it as a method of using up stale bread. However, as with many old-fashioned techniques, bakers find that it enhances the desirable qualities of certain breads. Its use seems to have begun in the making of pumpernickel doughs, and the best of these breads often contain altus.
Altus is a mash made by slicing leftover rye bread and trimming away the crusts, soaking the trimmed bread in water for several hours or overnight under refrigeration, then squeezing it dry. Added in small amounts to bread dough, altus intensifies the distinctive flavor of pumpernickel and rye bread and helps them retain moisture. When using altus, allow for a little extra flour in the recipe. The mash keeps well, covered, in the refrigerator.
Butter Substitutes
Although butter imparts a special flavor to baked goods, in recipes for cakes or pastries commercial bakers often substitute shortening for butter, measure for measure. In delicate pastries such as croissants, shortening is often substituted for half the butter to make them flakier. This also makes them less fragile, allowing them to be packaged and transported more safely.
Oils often do not give the same results as hard fats and cannot be substituted indiscriminately. However, when baking breads or yeast cakes, in most cases half of the fat can safely be replaced with liquid oils. Sometimes butter flavor is used to enhance the flavor or aroma of baked goods, and butter-flavored shortenings, oils, and sprays are becoming more widely available for the home baker.
Cut and Stipple
When most breads are ready for the oven, the tops are either scored with a sharp knife or single-edge razor blade, or they are stippled (docked) with a series of small holes made with a skewer or pointed blade, allowing the expanding gases in the loaf to escape without causing the crust to burst. Where appropriate, recipes in this book suggest a method or pattern.
INSIDER’S JOKE
A bread that is both cut and stippled is like a man’s trousers that are held up with a belt and suspenders.
The fashion in which the cuts are made influences the appearance and often the flavor of the bread. In cutting French or Italian bread, the slash is not made vertically. The blade is held at an angle of not more than 30 degrees, and the cut is made as if slitting under the skin of the bread. When the bread rises in the oven, this type of slash swells and the crust thickens along the lip. The thickening of the swollen crust is referred to as bloom, which gives the bread its traditional appearance and makes it crisp and chewy. French bread may have from three to ten slashes, the number determined by the length of the bread.
Other cuts or holes allow the bread to expand and form a design, sometimes quite intricate. Round breads may have a tic-tac-toe pattern; others may be stippled with a serious of holes. Most breads are cut in an orthodox manner that serves to identify them. Others might be cut with an interesting pattern that’s the signature of the baker. When you have a bit of experience, you should feel free to try some ideas of your own.
Occasionally, the crust will burst regardless of your best efforts. Do not despair. When we baked our Jewish Corn Bread in my bakery, knowledgeable shoppers would seek out a loaf with a split crust. This part of the bread is remarkably crunchy. It was often selected by the bakers, myself included, for their own table.
Cutting In
Several different methods can be used to blend together shortening and flour or sugar without creaming or aerating the two, a process termed cutting in. After cutting in, the shortening should be thoroughly distributed; the mixture will have a grainy appearance. You can use a pastry blender, two knives, or a fork, but you may find it easiest to rub the mixture between your fingers.
Dough, Mixing and Kneading
All of the yeast-raised breads in this book can be mixed by hand. I suggest that your first efforts be done by hand, which will provide you with a basic feeling for the doughs. Choose one of two methods—the straight dough method or the sponge method. Neither is difficult.
Straight Dough Method
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over warm water (105°F to 115°F). The exact temperature is not critical. If the water feels warm to the touch, the yeast will activate. Add the ingredients as specified in the recipe. The precise amount of flour will be determined while kneading. Stir with a wooden spoon until the dough forms up into a ball and begins to come away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out onto a lightly floured board. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the scrapings to the dough. Knead as described below.
Sponge Method
This method pre-ferments part of the dough, resulting in a moister and more flavorful loaf. The sponge doubles in volume in 20 to 45 minutes, depending upon room temperature, and this takes the place of the first rise (see this page). Sprinkle the yeast over warm water and stir in a portion of the flour until smooth. Cover and set aside until the mixture doubles in volume or appears bubbly or spongy. Stir in the balance of the ingredients and mix the dough as in the method above. When the dough is fully kneaded, allow it to rest, then shape it into loaves. The amount of time from start to shaping the loaf is often less than in the straight dough method.
Kneading
Kneading may be done on any clean, flat surface, such as a countertop, worktable, or kitchen table. It is important to work at a convenient, comfortable height—one that allows you to knead with arms extended so that you can press down from the shoulders without bending excessively. I prefer working with a hardwood board placed on the countertop. Wood makes a good work surface and is easily cleaned. A marble slab is excellent and is always cool.
After mixing as above, turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. The dough will be wet and sticky. Keep your hands dusted with flour. With your palms, push down from the shoulders, turn the dough a quarter turn, fold it in half, press away, turn, fold, press, turn, fold, press—working the dough up into a ball. Use a plastic or metal dough scraper to keep the surface of the board clean. Work the scrapings back into the dough. When the dough is no longer sticky to the touch, pick it up and stretch it to develop the elasticity. Knead once or twice and stretch again. Repeat this several times. Then lift the dough and drop it down onto the work surface, lift once more, turn over, and drop it again. Repeat—stretching, dropping, and kneading. This serves to aerate the dough. Some folks say that this also helps work out tensions. Don’t be afraid to slam it down.
If the dough is still too sticky, more flour can be added ¼ cup at a time. If the dough is stiff and unyielding, soften it with cool water added 1 teaspoon at a time. Extra time is required to incorporate the water into the dough, so be patient. Press your hand down on the dough; if it comes away clean it contains sufficient flour. Continue to turn, fold, and press until the dough feels smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes or more). As the dough becomes fully developed, it should come to life and push back, not feel limp.
The kneading process can be a relaxing and personally satisfying endeavor. It’s fun! Tear off a small piece of dough as you begin kneading. Try to stretch it and it will tear. Repeat when the dough is ready, and it will stretch beautifully. If you hold a small piece of dough, fully stretched, up to the light, you will see a pattern of fine, even lines in the dough. This is the gluten, coming to life under the pressure of your hands.
Stand Mixer
A stand mixer is capable of producing a better bread dough than is possible by hand or with a food processor. You will find that the recipes in this book often require more mixing time when a stand mixer is used. Kneading with the mixer allows bakers to make a stiffer dough and develop the gluten to its full strength. This results in a larger, better-textured loaf. In bakeries, ice water is often used to control the dough temperature so that the dough may be kneaded longer and developed further. In summer and in hot climates, do this at home by using ice water and cold ingredients. The goal is to maintain a 78°F to 80°F dough temperature while mixing for 10 to 15 minutes. There is some leeway in the dough temperature. Going over by a few degrees is not fatal. In bakeries it is not unusual to mix some doughs for 25 minutes. If you feel that the dough has become too hot, cover and allow it to rise in the refrigerator.
It is important when mixing bread dough with a stand mixer to use only a heavy-duty machine with a minimum capacity of 8 cups of flour. Stand mixers do a better job of kneading when operated at their ideal capacity. Whereas most cookbooks call for the same volume of ingredients whether mixing by hand or with a stand mixer, here you will find separate recipes for using a stand mixer, producing larger yields. You will quickly find out for yourself how much better your breads are when using these methods. As a bonus, you will often get three loaves for the same effort as you previously expended for only two. The hand-mixed recipe can always be used in the stand mixer when only two breads are desired.
ADVICE FROM A PRO
Do not walk away and leave the mixer unattended while mixing, and especially while kneading. The bowl is liable to jump off the saddle, or the beater or hook could come loose if not properly installed. When mixing a heavy dough, you sometimes have to hold the machine down with your hand to keep it from walking or jumping.
In bakeries, most bread doughs are mixed with a dough hook, but I have found that with most home mixers the hook is not able to stir the liquid and dry ingredients together until they are combined or are solid enough for the kneading process to begin. That’s why in some recipes I specify using the flat beater until the ingredients are mixed into a dough solid enough to knead with the hook. The flat beater is then removed, the dough scraped back into the bowl, and the dough hook inserted. The dough is then kneaded with the mixer until it is fully developed. To determine kneading time, start when the dough stops flopping around and the dough hook bites into the mass.
KitchenAid has a newly configured dough hook that kneads bread doughs without having to use the flat beater. (New for me, that is; the new design showed up in the 1980s—shows how long their machines last!) The change is imperceptible to the eye, but it allows the dough to be mixed with only the dough hook and it also develops the dough more quickly. Some of the recipes for stiff doughs may strain your mixer. Always begin with the smallest amount of flour called for in the recipe, holding back 2 cups of flour. Mix until the flour is barely incorporated, then add the reserved amount in several additions. The mixer can get very warm, but it is safe to continue mixing. If necessary, keep the dough a little softer than called for. When in doubt, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations. You can always process part of the dough separately. You also have the option of finishing kneading by hand. If experience proves that a stand mixer recipe is too large for your mixer, use the amounts called for in the smaller, hand-mixed recipe.
BAKER’S SECRET
When the dough is fully kneaded, trickle some vegetable oil down the side of the bowl while the mixer runs at slow speed until the dough is coated and flops around the sides of the bowl. Use care, keeping your fingers away from the edge of the bowl. Once coated, the dough can be turned out, or it may be left in the bowl, covered, and allowed to rise.
Food Processor
The basic procedure for mixing bread with a food processor is as follows: Yeast is softened in warm water in the work bowl. Half the flour, the other dry ingredients, and ice water are added. The machine is run until a dough forms. The rest of the flour is added 1 cup at a time, pulsing until the dough is thoroughly mixed. At the speed of this machine, often the mixing time is a minute or less.
If the dough is overprocessed, in baker’s terminology the dough becomes burned; that is, so much heat is built up from friction that the yeast cells and enzymes present in the dough are destroyed and the dough becomes useless. Here’s how to overcome this problem. Each cup of water in the recipe is divided into two parts: ¼ cup warm water and ¾ cup ice water. Dry yeast requires warm water (105°F to 115°F) to become activated. Ice water brings down the temperature of the dough, allowing it to be processed for 2 to 3 minutes or longer.
Ordinarily, a standard 4-cup food processor has the capacity to mix one loaf of bread. Following the method used in these recipes, it is possible to produce two loaves. If the machine strains and overheats, it will stop automatically. After cooling down for several minutes, the machine can be restarted without any harm. When mixing a large batch of dough, if the machine begins to labor, stop, remove the dough, divide it in half, and process each half separately. When each is mixed, place both on a work surface and knead the two pieces together.
Dredging
Whenever fruits or nuts are added into a batter, they tend to drift to the bottom when inserted in the oven and before the batter begins to solidify. Lightly dredging the fruits or nuts with flour and shaking off the excess is enough to hold those ingredients in suspension long enough for the batter to become dense.
Folding In
Folding is a very important technique used by bakers. The best example is folding beaten egg whites into a batter most often made from beaten egg yolks and sugar—no leavening. A small amount of the beaten whites is added to the egg yolk mixture and mixed in by hand using a spatula until completely absorbed. I like to think of the step as tempering the egg yolk mixture, thinning it out so it can accept the balance of the beaten whites without knocking out the air from the whites. It is the aeration that substitutes for leavening and makes for light and tender cakes. The whites go into the bowl on top of the yolk mixture and should be folded in as follows. Insert the spatula very gently down into the center of the bowl and with a twisting motion bring it up through the yolks, along the side of the bowl, then twist it upside down over the top. Turn the bowl slightly and repeat. Continue turning the bowl, folding in the whites, and working with a very light hand until the whites and yolks are combined. A few lumps are okay; they will disappear during baking. Using the spatula, carefully transfer the mixture to a baking dish. When folding in nuts, fruits, or melted chocolate, the same technique is used but these heavy ingredients are dredged with flour and folded in with a minimum of turning.
Glazing Bread
Following are the four methods that the baker uses immediately before baking to provide a proper finish or glaze to the bread. Each recipe will direct which method to use.
Cornstarch Solution
Before slashing the top of the bread and placing it in the oven, the tops may be brushed with a pastry brush dipped into a cornstarch solution made as follows. While bringing 1 cup water to a boil, dissolve 2 tablespoons cornstarch in ¼ cup cold water. Whisk this slurry into the boiling water until it thickens and becomes clear. This solution may be kept for several days. For a high shine, brush a second time as soon as the bread emerges from the oven. I use the cornstarch solution for breads that should have a glaze, such as sour rye bread; I use water (see below) for French- and Italian-style breads.
Egg Wash
Egg wash is applied on certain breads, rolls, and yeast cakes, such as challah, as well as egg rolls, knots, egg twist breads, and brioche, where a dark, mahogany-hued gloss is called for. Breads that are brushed with a whole egg or egg yolk solution are baked without steam. An egg wash glaze is made by lightly beating a whole egg or yolk with 1 tablespoon water. A pinch of salt is often added. The solution is brushed (painted) over the bread with a pastry brush. If yolks are used, the color will be deeper, but care must be taken so that the glaze does not burn. Often these types of baked goods will be brushed twice—once before the bread is proofed and a second time before it goes into the oven. The first coating is always allowed to dry before the second coating is applied.
Egg White Glaze
Some recipes call for a glaze of lightly beaten egg white with or without the addition of a small amount of water. This glaze is not used often in commercial bakeries. The results are somewhat similar to the cornstarch solution, which gives superior results and is more economical. If you are curious about the difference, try them both and compare.
Water
The simplest bread wash is tap water used at room temperature. This is used when a high shine is not desirable or as a substitute for the cornstarch solution described above. Water brushed on the bread before baking aids the steaming process in the oven, which enhances the development of the final color of the crust. Brushing the bread when it emerges from the oven imparts a slight sheen to the finished product. When baking several breads, you might try brushing one when it comes out of the oven and leaving another dry. Compare the difference and use the method you prefer. Some breads, such as country breads, which are dusted with flour before baking, are not glazed at all.
Greasing Pans
Pans should be greased thoroughly so that the baked goods will not stick to them when done. The pans should be clean and completely dry before greasing. You may use a brush, a rag, or even your fingers. Shortening, vegetable oil, butter, margarine, pan sprays, or other cooking fats may be used. Oils work well with most breads and rolls; however, if you encounter any sticking problems use a hardened shortening. Cake pans require a heavier greasing, and hard fats are best for this purpose. Butter is often applied to impart extra flavor to the baked goods. Antistick sprays work well; they allow you to ensure full coverage, get into hard-to-reach corners, and apply a thinner coat than is possible by hand. Pans that have a nonstick coating require less grease, but I do like to coat them lightly. Often a quick spray or a few drops of oil spread out with a paper towel will be sufficient. Steel and iron pans that have been properly seasoned (see this page) also require very little grease. Aluminum can be seasoned, but it does not hold the seasoning well and generally requires a heavier greasing. Commercial bakeries often use special pan greases that have better releasing properties and can be used frugally, and many bakers mix their own. Here is my recipe for pan grease for use in the home kitchen. It will keep indefinitely when stored in a cool dry area or refrigerated. If refrigerated, it should come to room temperature before using.
¼ cup vegetable shortening
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour, or more as needed
¼ teaspoon lecithin (optional, see Note)
Mix the shortening, oil, flour, and lecithin together in a mixer or with a wire whisk. Add more flour if the mixture is runny. Lecithin gives the fats better releasing qualities and allows you to use a thinner coat. When lecithin is used, grease the pans sparingly.
YIELD Makes about ¾ cup.
NOTE If the oil separates out on standing, it can be stirred back in and a little more flour added.
Lecithin is available in an emulsified form, which is preferable. Check in natural foods stores. A little lecithin goes a long way.
Measuring
Always measure carefully. All measurements should be level. Most recipes can be doubled or cut in half to change the yield. A mistake often made by professionals is to multiply or divide mentally instead of writing out the new measurements. Invariably the baker forgets to double or divide one ingredient or will omit one entirely. I always write down the entire converted recipe, then check it against the original before beginning to mix. Following the same reasoning, I have come to write out the recipe or just the ingredient list each time I bake and cross out each item as I use it. This takes a few extra minutes and has saved the day for me on many occasions.
Meringue
Beating egg whites until they become light and fluffy makes meringue. The addition of meringue to a batter takes the place of leavening. Meringue is also used as a topping when baked in the oven or browned with a torch and to make egg white pastries and other sweets. To make meringue, start with a very clean bowl and beater; if even a little bit of fat or egg yolk is present, the meringue will not whip up. Using a wire whisk, rotary hand beater, or a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, start beating at a slow speed. When the mixture begins to froth, add a pinch of cream of tartar or a few drops of lemon juice. Continue mixing, adding any required vanilla or liqueur, until tracks begin to form in the meringue. Increase the speed and continue mixing until the egg whites fluff up and form cloud-like puffs at the top and sides of the bowl. Decrease the speed to low and slowly add sugar until fully absorbed. Whip up once more at a higher speed until the puffs barely begin to come away from the sides of the bowl. Do not over mix or the meringue will fall in the oven; err on the soft side. When the beater is lifted out, stiff peaks should remain standing. With a bit of practice, you will quickly become expert at this. To add the meringue to a batter, temper the batter with the addition of about one-quarter to one-third of the meringue. Then, using a spatula, fold in the balance of the meringue by cutting down to the center of the bowl and then, with a turning motion, running the spatula up along the sides of the bowl and turning it over toward the center as you come up. (Do not beat the whites down.) Rotate the bowl slightly. Repeat folding and rotating the bowl until the whites are absorbed. Bake immediately.
Microwave Tricks
Here are several shortcuts using the microwave oven in the bread-making process.
Sour, in the Refrigerator
Several hours can be saved waiting for the first stage of sourdough bread to rise by microwaving the sour. Keep it in the refrigerator in a microwavable container. When needed, microwave on medium or on the defrost cycle for 10 seconds, then check the temperature with a chef’s instant-read thermometer. The goal is to bring it to room temperature (68°F to 70°F) and no higher; if the temperature gets too high, the sour will die. If necessary, microwave for one or two more 10-second periods to reach room temperature.
Proofing
Use the microwave oven as a steam box, where the loaves will rise in half the usual time. Bring 1 to 2 cups of water to a boil in the microwave. Place the water in a corner of the oven and put in the bread. Keep the oven turned off. The hot water generates steam, speeding the rising time. (The microwave without the steam makes an effective sealed cabinet to dry-proof some yeast doughs.)
Defrosting
Frozen unbaked bread dough can be defrosted following the microwave manufacturer’s instructions. Once the dough is defrosted, use the steaming method described above to proof. The steaming method can also be used for the initial defrosting.
Milk
There are three milk products that are most useful in baking bread.
Skim Milk Powder
Dry skim milk powder is easy to store and use and can be mixed into the dough in its dry form. For 1 cup whole milk, substitute ⅓ cup skim milk powder and 1 cup water. Buttermilk is available as a powder, too; use ¼ cup powder to 1 cup water.
Buttermilk
Buttermilk or sour milk tenderizes yeast breads and makes them lighter. Buttermilk is called for in many recipes for quick bread and muffins. When preparing several baked goods that require buttermilk, it is convenient to make your own buttermilk. My method is fast to do at home with little fuss. To 4 cups water at room temperature (70°F to 80°F), add 1⅓ cups dry skim milk powder and 1 cup prepared buttermilk, also at room temperature. You will have to use store-bought buttermilk the first time. Stir until dissolved. Leave uncovered at room temperature until clabbered (12 to 18 hours), then refrigerate and use as needed. Always reserve 1 cup as the starter for the next batch. If buttermilk is not available, substitute quick sour milk, below.
Quick Sour Milk
Sour milk can be made by a slower clabbering process, but for baking it can be made quickly by adding 1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon juice to 1 cup skim milk. Allow to stand until clabbered (about 10 minutes). This sour milk can be substituted for buttermilk in any recipe.
Nuts, Toasting
I have found that toasting nuts before adding them to baked goods significantly enhances the flavor of the finished product. Even when I grind nuts to be used in batters, I toast them before grinding. It is very simple to toast nuts in one of two ways. A small amount can be toasted quickly on the stovetop by tossing or shaking in a dry, heavy sauté pan over medium heat until lightly browned (about 10 minutes). Larger amounts can be spread out on a baking sheet and baked in a 350°F oven, shaking or lightly stirring once or twice, for 10 to 15 minutes.
Filberts, or hazelnuts, are skinned after toasting by swirling them in a sieve or by placing them on a towel and rubbing until most of the skins fall away. Not all of the skins will come off, but this will hardly be discernible in the finished product.
Onion Filling and Topping
Use this recipe in onion bread, pumpernickel, rye, onion rolls, onion sticks, focaccia, pizza, and wherever else your imagination leads you.
½ cup chopped yellow onions
1 green onion (white part only), chopped
1 to 2 teaspoons poppy seeds
1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil
Salt
Mix the onions, poppy seeds, and vegetable oil together and season with salt to taste.
Peel
A peel is a long-handled, paddle-shaped wooden instrument used mainly by bakers for inserting or removing baked goods, such as bread or pies, from an oven hearth (explained below). When you have become comfortable with your bread-baking ability, you may want to begin baking on an oven hearth and using a peel. (Bread and rolls are better when baked directly on an oven hearth. Development of the bottom crust is enhanced and the bread rises higher.)
You will need an oven stone or quarry tiles to serve as the hearth. Dust the peel well with cornmeal or flour, place the proofed bread carefully on the end of the peel, insert the peel into the oven, and sheave (shove) the bread off the peel for a few inches onto the hearth. Raise the peel an inch or two and swiftly draw it back. The action is like snatching a tablecloth out from under a full set of tableware. I jiggle the bread around on the peel before inserting it into the oven to make sure that it is not sticking. Then, with the back of the peel slightly elevated, I sheave the bread onto the hearth and pull back.
A good way to learn about sheaving is to use a peel for inserting breads in loaf pans into the oven. This will allow you to get a feel for sheaving without damaging free-form breads.
When first learning how to pick up and place a proofed free-form bread onto the peel, do not let the bread rise fully. If it is too soft, it will collapse while being lifted. If this happens, reshape the bread and try again. It is possible to proof some breads directly on the peel; however, make sure that the bottom of the loaf is not stuck to the peel before sheaving.
Proofing Bread
The final rising of the bread just before baking is called proofing. This should not be confused with the proofing of yeast, discussed elsewhere (see this page). Full proof means the maximum growth that the loaf can attain without collapsing in the oven. Generally the breads are covered while proofing so that a skin does not form, which might prevent a bread from fully rising. When allowed to rise on the work surface or out in the open in the kitchen environment the breads should be covered with a cloth that has been rubbed with flour, or in some applications with a slightly moistened cloth. I often use a plain kitchen towel without any further treatment. It is best to experiment in your own kitchen and use what suits you. When breads are risen in steam environments, the breads are not covered, unless in a manner specified. In hot weather, bread will rise quickly and can be left out on the counter as described above. In colder weather or in a drafty room, it is best to proof the bread in an enclosed environment, such as in a kitchen cabinet or in the oven without any heat. See “Steam, for Proofing,” this page.
Overproofed Bread
Bread is overproofed when all the nutrients in the dough that feed the yeast cells have been used up or not enough are left to provide for the final burst of growth that allows the bread to spring up in the oven. If this occurs, the bread will fall in the oven. It will come out flat, improperly baked, and poor or raw tasting. Sometimes overproofed dough can be salvaged prior to baking if it is punched down, reshaped, and allowed to rise once more. It will not be perfect, but it will be an edible bread (in most instances!).
Underproofed Bread
Underproofed bread will burst or split in the oven. It may be misshapen, come out too small, or be too heavy, or the texture will not be right. Each recipe will give you the general amount of growth necessary; for example, “the bread should come up slightly over the top of the pan,” or “set aside until the loaf doubles in size.” Most doughs allow a great deal of leeway, and using a moderate amount of care will always produce a satisfactory loaf.
Determining Proof
For those who wish to have more control over the proofing process, this is how the pros determine the amount of proof: they do it by eye, touch, and experience, which is almost never discussed in books on home baking and is generally ignored. There is no great mystery involved. With experience, anyone can quickly become competent at judging. Before you bake breads, always gently touch the side of the loaf with one finger. A fully proofed loaf will yield slightly to the delicate touch. In the beginning, gauge the proof by the amount of growth suggested in the recipe (double in size, for example). With every test, observe the finished result. You will quickly gain experience and in a short time will have taught yourself. Producing a loaf of bread that has risen to the point of perfection will give you a great deal of satisfaction.
Not all breads require full proof. Occasionally a recipe will call for half proof or some similar instruction. An explanation in the recipe will help you make this judgment. With experience, you will be able to alter the amount of proof to suit yourself.
Pumpernickel Color
Pumpernickel color, also known as caramel color or burnt sugar, is used to give pumpernickel bread its dark, or sometimes black, color. You might ask your friendly local baker to sell you some pumpernickel color, or you can make it yourself with the recipe below. (Or you may substitute 2 tablespoons molasses, 2 tablespoons cocoa powder, or 2 tablespoons instant coffee granules for ¼ cup pumpernickel color.) Caramel color can be purchased in ethnic markets but it will not produce the same, almost black, color.
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon water
Pinch of cream of tartar
¼ cup boiling water
In a heavy saucepan over low heat, melt the sugar in the 1 tablespoon water over low heat. Increase the heat to medium-high, cover the pan, bring to a boil, and boil for 2 minutes without stirring. Add the cream of tartar and continue to boil, uncovered, until the sugar is almost black in color. Remove the pan from the heat. The sugar will continue to cook and darken. Allow it to begin to cool. Using extreme care, add the boiling water (the sugar will boil up and may spatter). Stir to dissolve, then cool to room temperature. Pumpernickel color will keep indefinitely at room temperature in a covered jar or plastic container.
For easier cleanup, soak the saucepan and utensils in hot water to dissolve the caramelized sugar remaining on them, and whenever you use pumpernickel color, wet the measuring spoon or cup with cold water first.
Putting Bread By
There are many good ways of keeping and storing breads. Crusty bread can be harder to store, since the crust tends to soften when enclosed in an airtight wrap. Crusty bread will keep for several days in a bread box when placed in a paper bag or waxed bakery-type bag. By allowing the bread to breathe, these bags help maintain some of the original crispness. In retail bakeries, breads are kept unwrapped on the display shelves so that the crusts remain crisp.
Some people actually prefer day-old bread, and stale bread can always be toasted. To refresh crusty bread, wrap it in aluminum foil and warm in a preheated oven or toaster oven at 325°F. Or you can try the newest method we’re using at home. Cut fresh, crusty bread into portions big enough for two people and large enough to stand on their own when placed in a toaster oven or in the oven itself. Store in double plastic bags in the freezer. When ready to use, move the bread from the freezer to the refrigerator and let defrost overnight or for at least a few hours. Otherwise, microwave each portion on high for no more that 20 seconds or the bread will become chewy. It is okay if the portions are not completely thawed. Place them in a toaster oven (preferably) or in a preheated oven and toast, crust side up—my secret for crisping the crust, not toasting the bread. We have been doing this for a few years now, and it results in bread that’s almost indiscernible from a freshly baked loaf. Microwave ovens, when used at medium heat for a very short time, will soften or defrost bread, but the crust will not crisp. Bread kept in a sealed plastic bag will stay soft longer, but the crust will soften quickly. Warm, humid air increases the probability of mold forming on the bread. Bread kept wrapped and refrigerated will resist molding.
Freezing is an excellent way to store bread without compromising quality. When only several slices are needed each day, the bread can be presliced and frozen. Defrost as many slices as are desired. The slices come to room temperature quickly, or they can be toasted while frozen. Well-wrapped loaves keep for up to 6 months in the freezer, although they taste better if used sooner.
Freezing unbaked bread allows you to prepare extra loaves at one mixing and bake fresh, hot breads whenever desired. For best results, allow the frozen, unbaked loaves to thaw slowly overnight in the refrigerator. Alternatively, you can defrost them at room temperature or place them in a warm enclosed space—a cabinet or a warm empty oven, for example—and allow them to thaw and rise slowly over a period of several hours. For quicker results, place the bread in a warm, moist place and defrost and proof in one operation. Frozen unbaked bread can be defrosted in the microwave oven following instructions in the manufacturer’s handbook (see “Microwave Tricks,” this page).
Before the advent of home refrigeration, most cooks made bread once a week. Breads were kept longer by baking very large loaves, as much as 5 pounds in weight. These breads took longer to bake and retained more moisture. Years back, my bakery sold 3-pound loaves of table rye. They were wide, stubby loaves and very flavorful. They made he-man-sized sandwiches. If you bake large loaves—2 pounds or more—at home, they require longer baking and will be tastier than smaller breads. Try it!
Raisins, Soaking
Many people prefer the flavor and texture of plump raisins in their bread, which you can achieve by soaking them. Measure the required amount of raisins, cover with warm water, and let soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well before use. When mixing doughs by machine, be careful when adding plumped raisins. They are delicate and crush easily. When in doubt, knead them in by hand after the dough has been mixed. For a gourmet touch, soak raisins overnight in enough rum or brandy to cover.
Refrigeration
Refrigerating retards growth of yeast doughs, slowing down the rising process. Dough and unbaked loaves can be retarded at almost any stage of the bread-making process. Rising at a slow rate, they can be kept for many hours, even overnight, freeing the baker to leave or attend to other tasks.
When yeast dough is fully risen, it can be punched down and frozen, or made up into loaves. The loaves are then proofed and baked, or frozen before proofing for future use. Unbaked bread can also be left in the refrigerator overnight to proof slowly and may be baked the following day. Raw dough or bread should not be kept unfrozen for more than a day. When frozen, it begins to lose some strength after 1 week at home freezer temperatures. Although frozen dough can be kept for 3 to 6 months, many years of experience have taught me that there is some loss of flavor. Wrap well when freezing for long periods; I always use heavy duty plastic wrap followed by a ziplock plastic bag. Date the package so that the oldest can be used first. It is also wise to note the contents of the bag; when frozen for any length of time it is often difficult to tell what kind of dough is in the wrapper.
Any dough that has been frozen can be thawed, shaped into a loaf, and baked in the normal manner. Previously shaped loaves, rolls, croissants, and other ready-to-proof items can be made at a convenient time, frozen, then baked as desired. Slow defrosting, overnight in the refrigerator, yields the best results.
Rising
Before baking, bread dough requires two risings during which a chemical process must take place.
First Rise
After kneading, the dough is allowed to rise. Rising is caused by the action of enzymes in the yeast cells, which feed upon the sugar and starch present in the flour. In the first rise the sugar feeds the yeast cells, which give off carbon dioxide gas. The gas is trapped in pockets formed by gluten in the flour and the dough begins to rise.
The dough is usually left to rise until it doubles in size. If left too long, the yeast will use up the sugar upon which it feeds and the dough will collapse. Test by pressing a finger into the risen dough. If the dough is still young (not risen enough), the indent from your finger will begin to rise and disappear. If the indent shrinks and begins to collapse, the dough is old. A ready dough, in between these two extremes, is preferable, although one that is a little young is acceptable. Dough that has become old may often be revived by kneading out all the air, then shaping into a bread and allowing the dough to rise again until is proofed.
Punching Down
Punching down the dough forces out all the old gases and prepares the dough for the next rise. Press down with your hand into the center of the dough so that it collapses. Grasp both sides, bring them into the center of the dough, and press down again. Turn a quarter turn and repeat. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and press out all the remaining air with your palms. Shape into a ball once more, cover, and let the dough rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
Second Rise (Proofing)
At this point the dough is shaped and allowed to rise before baking. During the second rise, starches in the flour are converted into food for the yeast, allowing the bread to rise once more. (Steam may be used to facilitate this process; see “Steam, for Proofing,” this page.) When the bread doubles in size, it is ready for the oven. Some breads, such as country loaves, require a third rise to give the bread a large-holed texture and chewy quality.
Seasoning Pans
I always “season” my baking pans so that they require very little grease or oil and the baked goods slip out of the pans without sticking. This is the method I use: Wash and scrub the pans thoroughly, then dry them and place in a preheated 425°F oven for 25 minutes. Remove them from the oven and, while they are still hot, apply a thin coat of vegetable oil to the entire interior surface with a brush or rag, carefully getting into the corners and along the rim. Use caution to avoid getting burned. Once the pan is cool, wipe it dry with a paper towel. Seasoning works best with steel pans. Aluminum pans may also be seasoned, but they have to be redone sooner. Do not season Teflon or similar coated pans.
Seasoned pans reserved for baking should merely be wiped dry with a clean, soft cloth or paper towel after each use. If you must wash them, use only water and a soft brush or nylon pad. Do not scour; above all, do not use steel wool or soap. Dry scrubbing with salt works well for stuck-on crumbs. If sticking eventually becomes a problem, the pan must be reseasoned.
Pans that have lost their shine and are black from a great deal of use produce baked goods with richer color and better crust.
Shaping a Loaf
Shaping a loaf is a critical step in producing a professional-looking loaf with the proper texture. Most instructions merely tell you to roll into a tube shape or roll up like a jelly roll. This type of instruction is insufficient for achieving a perfect loaf. The dough must be molded tightly and have the appropriate shape to bake correctly. A little extra time spent in shaping the loaves will result in better breads every time.
We begin with four basic shapes, the pan loaf, the Vienna loaf, French or Italian loaves, and the round loaf. Other shapes will be discussed as needed.
Pan Loaf
A pan loaf is baked in a rectangular bread pan of the type discussed on this page. With your hands or a rolling pin, press a piece of dough into a rectangular shape and fold it in thirds, right over left, two-thirds of the way, then left over right. Flatten out with your hands.
Without turning the dough, fold the top down to the center. With your knuckles or the heel of your palm, press a seam down into the center of the dough. Turn the bottom half up to the center and seal the edge with your knuckles or the heel of your palm. Now roll and fold the top half over the bottom and seal the seam again. Squeeze and roll back and forth to elongate. If necessary, lengthen the loaf further with a back-and-forth motion, working from the center of the loaf to the ends. Roll the seam around so that it is centered on the bottom. The loaf should be tight and extend the length of the baking pan. Keep the seam down when you place the bread in the pan so that it cannot crack open while baking.
The pan loaf may also be baked as a free-form loaf, either on an oven stone or tile hearth or on a baking sheet. In my bakery, we used this shape for sandwich rye or pumpernickel bread.
Vienna Loaf
The Vienna shape is a free-form loaf baked on the hearth or on a baking sheet; it is wide in the center and narrows to a point on both ends. It can be molded as a pan loaf (see above), then, with one hand on either end, roll the tips down with your palms in a back-and-forth motion until a pointed end is achieved. When rye bread is molded in this fashion, the ends make wonderful eating. Shaping the loaves with a blunt end gives more uniform slices and results in more sandwich slices from the loaf. The Vienna loaf can also be made jelly-roll fashion using the method describe below for French or Italian loaves.
French or Italian Loaves and Baguettes
The shorter French and Italian shapes can be made up as pan loaves (see above) and then elongated with a rolling, pressing motion of the palms, beginning in the center of the loaf and working out toward the ends. The ends can be left blunt or pointed.
A second version, necessary for longer loaves, is made in jelly-roll fashion. The dough is pressed out or rolled with a pin into a long rectangular shape. Starting from the top, form a short roll or lip along the entire length, then press it down with your fingertips. Continue rolling or folding, pressing down a seam with each roll. As the roll gets bigger, use your knuckles or the heel of your hand. Continue rolling and seal the last turn firmly. The loaf may be elongated with a rolling, stretching, back-and-forth motion, working from the center to the ends. The seam, or closure, should be centered at the bottom of the formed loaf when done.
If you begin by pressing or rolling the dough out into a circular shape instead of a rectangle, then by proceeding in jelly-roll fashion you can create the classic Vienna bread shape, with a wide, high center and low, pointed ends, or a longer Italian bread version.
Round Loaf
Round loaves are shaped into a smooth, tight ball.
Sprouts, Wheat Berry
It’s easy to sprout seeds or beans in your own kitchen. Wheat berries can be purchased in natural foods stores and some markets. Don’t buy the variety found in garden or pet supply stores. These are chemically treated and are not fit for human consumption. The same berries that you sprout can be used for Cracked Wheat Bread (this page) or cooked up into a hearty hot breakfast cereal.
For every cup of sprouts, you will need ¼ cup wheat berries, a clean mason jar, and some cheesecloth, a clean nylon stocking, or a commercially available sprouting screen. Special sprouting jars are also available. Place the wheat berries in the jar with water to cover, affix the cheesecloth over the top with a rubber band, and soak overnight. In the morning, spill out the water through the cloth and allow the jar to drain well. Place the jar on its side in a dark, warm cupboard or closet. In the evening, pour in tepid water to cover, swish around, and drain. You may reserve the drained water for use in any bread recipe.
The next day, once again change the water twice, morning and evening, saving the drained water if desired. Drain well each time. When the sprouts burst forth in 1 to 2 days, you may begin to make your bread. Some bakers prefer to allow the sprouts to grow until they are the length of the berry, which takes about a day and provides additional nutrients. Either way works well in bread making. If you spread out the ready sprouts on a dish or tray and leave them in sunlight for 20 minutes or so, they will manufacture their own chlorophyll and begin to turn green, adding to their nutrient value.
Stale Bread
What does the baker do with leftover bread in the bakery? The successful baker converts or recycles stale bread into fresh products. Altus (see this page) is one way to use old bread. Here are a few other ways to recycle stale bread in the home kitchen.
Bread Crumbs
Dry bread may be grated by hand or with an electric grinder, food processor, or blender. If you use a blender, prepare small amounts at a time. Add your favorite herbs while processing.
Bread Pudding
Use a favorite recipe for bread pudding or try a new one, and bear in mind that you can make savory bread puddings, too.
Bruschetta
These are thick slices of Italian or French country bread, toasted, rubbed with garlic and olive oil, and topped with a tomato salsa or other toppings. Use them as an appetizer or a snack.
Croutons
Trim the crusts from sliced bread and dice the bread. Place on a baking sheet and brown in a 375°F oven, or lightly fry until golden brown in color. For a variation, sauté some garlic in oil, discard the garlic, and sauté the croutons in the garlicky oil. Alternatively, soak the croutons in oil and vinegar and toss with a salad.
French Toast
Make French toast with thick slices of Challah (this page). This is a delicious Sunday brunch.
Garlic Bread
Split a long loaf of French or Italian bread most of the way through, then spread with a mixture of half melted butter and half oil (preferably olive oil). Sprinkle with sautéed minced garlic (granulated or powdered garlic may substituted). Wrap in aluminum foil and freeze, or bake immediately at 350°F for 15 to 20 minutes. The wrapped bread can also be grilled on the barbeque. Try toasting the cut side on the grill before buttering. Make several pieces per person. For a special treat, sprinkle a bit of fines herbes (made by mixing 1 tablespoon each dried chives, tarragon, parsley, and chervil) on garlic bread and top with grated Parmesan or Romano cheese.
Rusks
Place thin slices of hard bread on a baking sheet and bake at 250°F until lightly browned. Before baking, the rusks can be flavored by sprinkling with herbs or spices. Try drizzling them with olive oil, then sprinkling with dried rosemary before baking.
Stuffing
Tear or cube day-old bread or rolls for use in stuffing. The pieces can be bagged and frozen for future use.
Thickening
Use stale bread to thicken soups. Bread soups are standards in Mediterranean cuisine.
Toast
Bread that is a day or two old can be toasted and served hot. Split long French-style loaves and toast them in the oven, broiler, or toaster oven. I like to scoop out most of the soft center with a spoon before toasting. Smooth on butter or any spread, or sprinkle with olive oil and stuff with your favorite sandwich filling. Rye toast is always a special treat. My grandmother used to rub the crusts of sliced sour rye bread with a clove of garlic, then toast the slices. She served it with hot tea in a glass, often for an after school snack. If that’s not good enough, she also spread the garlic rubbed toast with warm beef marrow. For a real cholesterol jag, they would serve garlic toasted rye with a spread of rendered chicken fat, rare roast beef, and a slice of Bermuda onion.
Steam, for Proofing
Proofing is the final rise. When the shaped loaf is ready to be proofed, there are many ways to induce it to rise. The usual method is to place the loaves in a warm spot, free from drafts, but there are several alternatives, both in the home kitchen and in the bakery. An understanding of how bread is proofed commercially will help you find your own method at home.
The oldest and best method is very simple. The bread or rolls are placed in wooden boxes approximately 30 inches square and 3 to 4 inches high. The boxes are dusted with flour and the bread or rolls are spaced carefully so as not to touch one another as they grow. A second box is placed on top of the first and the process is repeated, filling the boxes and stacking them higher and higher. The warm air and moisture in a bakery is perfect for allowing the bread to rise slowly. Rising time can be controlled simply by crisscrossing the boxes, allowing the corners of the boxes to stay open and thus slowing down the rising time. This is necessary if the ovens are backed up or if the baker must attend to other tasks.
Since no additional heat or moisture is supplied, the dough rises naturally. Bakers describe this method as “giving natural proof.” Although this method takes longer than using a steam box with a burner (see below), it still produces the best results to this day. In the old bakeries with the huge brick-lined ovens the heat could be oppressive, but then there was no need to add heat or steam for the breads to rise very quickly.
An “improvement” to this method involves the use of a special cabinet called a steam box or proofing cabinet. The cabinet is wide enough to accommodate the wooden boxes on rack-type shelves. The boxes are stacked one above the other, with several inches of space between each shelf. At the bottom of the cabinet is a small burner and a trough or container filled with water, which is allowed to boil. Heat and steam circulate around the boxes, causing the breads to rise rapidly, thereby reducing the rising time dramatically. There is a penalty exacted, however, in that the breads or rolls never rise quite as much as with the natural method.
Through the years, these proofing cabinets have evolved until today we have cabinets that accommodate multiple rolling racks, with the baked goods on pallets or baking pans. The racks are rolled into the steam cabinets, which have sophisticated temperature and humidity controls that allow quicker rising times and are adjustable to the best conditions for the type of dough being proofed.
Fortunately, we can do as well or better in the home by using the natural proof method. The bread is placed in a warm, draft-free spot, covered with a damp or flour-rubbed cloth or towel, and allowed to rise slowly. Alternatively, the bread can be placed in a closed kitchen cabinet or a home-built wooden box. You can also proof bread in an empty oven that has been heated for just a few minutes and then turned off. In this era of modern conveniences, I often allow my doughs or pan breads to rise in a microwave oven that is not turned on (see “Microwave Tricks,” this page).
While baking one bread in the oven, I often proof the next dough on top of the warm range, covering the bread with a damp cloth. If you try this, be careful not to allow a skin to develop on the bread, since this will keep it from rising. I have a friend who tells me that she proofs her bread in the dishwasher after putting it on the heat cycle for a few minutes.
Another simple method for proofing bread is to place the loaves on a wire rack over a pan filled with boiling water. The breads can be covered with a cloth or cardboard box. As you can see, the possibilities are as endless as the baker’s ingenuity.
Steam, in Baking
Steam introduced into the oven during the baking process is the key to developing a proper crust on bread. Essential during the first part of the baking process, steam allows for better rising in the oven and slows development of the crust. The steam keeps the crust moist so that it does not split while it rises in the oven. Steam is also necessary for giving the bread its sheen.
In bakeries, steam is usually produced in a boiler or steam generator and injected into the oven while the bread is baking. After the crust develops, the steam is shut off so that the sugars in the crust can caramelize, producing color and flavor.
In the home kitchen, the generally accepted method of introducing steam into the oven is to place a pan of boiling water in the bottom of the oven before putting in the bread. Other methods include spraying water on the bread several times during the baking process with an ordinary household spray bottle. These methods really do not give the burst of steam necessary to do a professional job, so I suggest the following method for use at home. Though still a compromise, this method results in a crustier, more professional-looking bread: Place an empty roasting pan or other heavy pan on the floor of the oven 5 to 10 minutes before baking, so it gets hot. Before slashing the breads prior to putting them in the oven, brush the tops with water or a cornstarch solution (see this page). I prefer the cornstarch method for breads that should have a shiny crust, such as Jewish rye bread, and the water method for French- and Italian-style breads. (Breads that are brushed with an egg wash are baked without steam.)
When ready to bake, place the bread in the oven and carefully toss 6 to 8 ice cubes into the hot pan, or pour in 1 cup of boiling water, and immediately close the oven door.
Caution: When using boiling water, wear a glove and keep your face away from the open oven door, since there will be a strong burst of steam when the boiling water hits the hot pan. Once you’ve closed the oven, do not open the door to peek for at least the first 10 minutes or the steam will escape.
When you remove the bread from the oven, place it on a rack to cool, then brush the top with water or cornstarch solution once more. The results will astonish you. Your bread will look as professional as any that comes from a fine bakery.
What Went Wrong?
Why bad things happen and how to fix them.
Bread Has No Flavor (Tastes Flat) or Dough Rises Too Fast
NO SALT. Forgetting to add salt is the most common error in bread baking. A good habit to get into is to measure the salt first and place it in a small container or on a square of waxed paper next to the work bowl. If you forget to add it, you will see it, avoiding any doubt. Salt retards the action of the yeast, and if left out, the dough will rise much faster than normal. Salt that was left out may be added later by dissolving it in a little water and kneading it in thoroughly.
Dough Does Not Rise or Doesn’t Rise Properly
NO YEAST. You will note that most of the recipes in this book call for yeast and water to be the first ingredients used in mixing. This is done to ensure that the yeast is not forgotten. If it is not the first ingredient, sprinkle the dry yeast over a small amount of warm water (¼ to ½ cup) and place it next to the work bowl so that it will be visible if left out. Deduct the amount of water used from the total liquid in the recipe. If forgotten, the yeast can be added to the dough with thorough kneading. Sometimes the yeast is added in the dry stage. Leave the packet next to the machine or even on top of it so that it will be seen if forgotten.
DOUGH IS TOO SOFT. Not enough flour was added to the mix. If the dough is too soft, it will not have enough body to rise properly or hold whatever shape you mold it into. Add flour in small amounts and knead it thoroughly into the dough. If the bread has already risen, it can often be saved by squeezing or punching it down, adding flour in small amounts at a time, and kneading until thoroughly incorporated. The dough should rise again and bake quite well.
DOUGH IS TOO STIFF. When too stiff, the dough has no elasticity. It will remain a solid, heavy lump, unwilling to rise or allow itself to be shaped. Add water a teaspoonful at a time and work it thoroughly into the dough.
DOUGH WAS IMPROPERLY KNEADED. Bread must be worked well to develop the dough. Yeast is a living single-celled organism that reproduces and multiplies in the dough, giving off carbon dioxide gas. Gluten, a wheat protein, is very malleable and continually stretches and forms thousands of little pockets that entrap the gas and expand. This is how the dough rises. Kneading develops and enhances gluten’s elasticity, so you must work the dough long enough to make all of the gluten resilient. Stretching while kneading helps activate the gluten. Slamming the dough down on the work surface aerates the dough, making more pockets that will expand.
YEAST WAS NOT ACTIVATED, OR WAS STALE OR OUTDATED. If the yeast wasn’t omitted and was activated properly, but the bread rose improperly, look to the yeast itself as the source of the problem. Yeast cells can be killed by improper storage or age. If the yeast is suspect, proof it first. (See “Proofing Yeast,” this page.)
Baked Bread Sags
The finished bread is soggy or shows a wet, fallen section when cut.
BREAD WAS OVERPROOFED. The loaf was allowed to grow too much in the last rise before baking and thus collapses in the oven.
GLUTEN IS UNDEVELOPED. The dough was not kneaded long enough to develop the gluten. As a result, the bread does not rise properly and falls while in the oven.
Bread Is Gummy or Wet When Baked
BREAD IS UNDERBAKED. The oven thermostat is inaccurate. Always use a good oven thermometer to ensure proper temperature. At high altitudes increase the oven temperature by 2°F for every 1,000 feet above sea level. To test if the bread is fully baked, tap the bottom of the loaf with your fingertips and lightly squeeze the sides. A finished loaf will emit a hollow thump and the sides will be firm. If the crust is too dark and the loaf is underbaked, use a lower oven temperature. My secret: if you are baking regularly, you will discover that the same kind of bread—rye bread, for example—will always bake for almost the exact amount of time, each time you bake. In the bakery it became intuitive to know exactly when the bread was ready. If you suddenly realize that the breads are baked much faster or slower than usual, most assuredly the oven thermostat is operating off temperature. This happens to all thermostats used in high heat situations. In the bakery, we had to change the thermostats regularly. Home ovens used to have a way to adjust for the temperature difference. Usually when you pulled off the temperature control knob, there was a way to adjust it at the back of the knob. With electronic thermostats we can no longer do this. What I do is adjust my baking time. This way the life of the thermostat can be prolonged. Eventually, the thermostat will need to be changed.
Bottom of Bread Is Burnt
OVEN SHELF IS TOO LOW, If the bottom is burnt, the oven shelf may be too low. Move it up higher.
Top of Bread Is Burnt
OVEN SHELF IS TOO HIGH. If the top is burnt or overbaked and the bottom is soft, try moving the oven shelf lower. Some breads (often those that are brushed with egg wash) tend to burn on top before the bottom is baked. When these breads first begin to brown, they can be covered with a tent made of parchment paper or aluminum foil. The tenting can be removed shortly before the loaves are finished baking if the tops need additional browning.
Crust Has Burst
BREAD WAS UNDERPROOFED. The bread was not given enough time to rise.
TOP WAS NOT SLASHED. The loaf was not slashed or stippled on top. The crust bursts because the gases formed by the yeast cannot escape.
SEAM WAS NOT SEALED. The seam, or closure, made when the loaf was shaped was not sealed well or not properly positioned for the final rise, so it breaks open.
Crust Has Uneven Color
OVEN BAKES UNEVENLY. The oven may have hot spots. Move the loaves once or twice during the baking process. You may have to turn the loaves front to back to ensure even baking. If only one loaf is being baked, center it on the shelf. I often turn the pans back to front when half the baking time has elapsed.
Crust Separates from Loaf
SKIN ALLOWED TO FORM. Before baking, a skin formed on the unbaked bread. Keep the dough in a draft-free area and covered with a cloth so that the surface does not dry out.
OVEN TEMPERATURE TOO LOW, Check with an accurate oven thermometer or bake at a higher temperature.
Bread Has Too Many Holes
DOUGH WAS OVERMIXED. The dough temperature was allowed to go too high. The ingredients were too hot or were overmixed in the processor or electric mixer. (In the country-style breads, large holes are desirable and give the bread a coarse texture and chewy quality. Some recipes call for an extra rise to create this chewy quality.)
BREAD WAS OVERPROOFED. Adjust rising time.
None of the Above
Sometimes whatever went wrong is not immediately obvious. The baker must put on a detective’s hat. Most often the culprit turns out to be a careless baker. Measure carefully. Double-check that no ingredients have been omitted.
Recipes in this book are labeled as either dairy , pareve
, or both
. Recipes that are labeled dairy
contain dairy products that are integral to the recipe and cannot be substituted. Recipes labeled pareve
contain no dairy products. Recipes labeled dairy and pareve
list dairy products in the ingredients list; however, these ingredients are optional and non-dairy alternatives (also listed in the ingredients list) can be substituted.
CHAPTER THREE
Basic Yeast Bread
To give you a basic understanding of how bread is mixed, two methods of mixing are presented in this chapter using a recipe for milk bread, an easy basic yeast bread. Choose either the straight dough or the sponge method to make this bread, which you will enjoy often.
In the straight dough method, all of the ingredients are combined in one step, the resulting dough is allowed to rise, and then it is shaped into a loaf and given a final rise before baking.
In the sponge method, a quick sponge that takes the place of the first rise is made from flour, yeast, and water. The remaining ingredients are mixed with the sponge to form the dough, which is then mixed, shaped, and given a final rise before baking.
Many bakers feel that the sponge method is a little quicker and produces a softer and better-keeping loaf. Try both methods. Decide which you prefer, while at the same time learning all you need to know about basic bread baking.
Note that for each method, recipes are given for making the bread by hand, in a food processor, or in a stand mixer. For definitions of specific terms used in the recipes, consult the glossary or chapter 2, Bread Making A to Z.
Milk Bread, Straight Dough Method
The old-timer bakers with whom I once worked called this bread “milk bread,” although it is actually white bread. In my opinion, commercially available white bread, which is truly the staff of life and the most widely used bread that we produce, has lost that wonderful quality and flavor of years gone by. What makes white bread wonderful? The crust should be thick and rich in color and have either a good bite or crunch to it. The bread should have a tight texture, toast evenly, slice cleanly, be dense enough to prevent jam from oozing, and tolerate being spread with butter. Next is aroma: Hand a slice of bread to a baker and the first thing that he or she will do is take a deep whiff. The aroma of bread to a baker is like the perfume of a flower to a lady. Last but not least is flavor. The bread should chew well, not taste spongy or cardboardlike, and be bursting with rich flavor. So with respect for the old-time bakers with whom I worked, I use their name, Milk Bread.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
4 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened (use it cold in hot weather)
⅔ cup skim milk powder
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer the dough to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough and cut in half. Shape each half into a ball, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Place in a warm, draft-free area to rise until the loaves form nicely rounded tops and rise above the tops of the pans.
Place the pans on a baking sheet. Slash lengthwise down the center of each loaf with a sharp knife or razor blade. Brush the tops with water or melted butter.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) on the middle shelf of the oven until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). The loaves can be removed from the pans for the last 5 minutes of baking for crustier bread. Brush again with water or melted butter and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In this recipe above, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, sugar, butter, milk powder, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt; mix until smooth. Add 3 more cups of flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour may be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oil-coated bowl. Turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup skim milk powder
1 tablespoon salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, butter, 7½ cups of the flour, the milk powder, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour may be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten.
Remove the hook, add oil to the bowl, and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Milk Bread, Sponge Method

Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
4 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
⅔ cup skim milk powder
2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth, elastic, and springy (8 to 10 minutes). Cut the dough in half and shape into 2 equal rounds. Allow to rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Place in a warm, draft-free area, cover with a clean cloth, and allow to rise until the loaves come up above the rim of the pans.
Place the pans on a baking sheet. Slash lengthwise down the center of each loaf with a sharp knife or razor blade. Brush the tops with water or melted butter.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) on the middle shelf of the oven until the bread has a rich color and emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). The loaves can be removed from the pans for the last 5 minutes of baking for crustier bread. Brush again with water or melted butter and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the sponge, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water and flour and process until smooth. Keep the cover in place (the processor’s cover) and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 2 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and tries to ride up on top of the blade. Add more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Process until the flour is completely incorporated (1 to 2 minutes). If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand for a few minutes to make the dough more elastic.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and cut in half, shape into 2 equal rounds, and cover. Allow the dough to rest for 10 minutes. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
1 cup skim milk powder
3 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and let rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Turn out onto a floured work surface, cut into thirds, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow the dough to rest 10 minutes. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
CHAPTER FOUR
Corn and Potatoes:
Seeds of the Americas
Corn (maize) and potatoes are two of the most economically important plant crops to modern civilization and are cultivated by more nations than wheat or rice. Both corn and potatoes are native to the Americas, and there is no part of North or South America that does not have its regional corn and potato breads. When Columbus returned to Europe from his first voyage of discovery in 1492, he brought seeds of tomatoes, corn, and potatoes from the new world to Europe.
The contemporary cuisines of the South and the West emphasize corn and potatoes, not only in the dishes that have evolved there but also in adaptations of the breads of Native Americans both north and south of the border.
Anadama Bread
There are many versions of anadama bread using either white or whole-grain flours. I like this recipe with half white, half whole wheat flour. The addition of cornmeal and molasses underscores the bread’s Yankee character.
1¼ cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, softened
¼ cup molasses
½ cup medium-grind yellow cornmeal
2 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
DOUGH In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the butter, molasses, cornmeal, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more all-purpose flour if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more all-purpose flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough, cut it in half, and shape into 2 balls. Cover and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free area until the loaves rise up over the tops of the pans. Brush the loaves with water, then slash once down the length of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) on the middle shelf of the oven until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). For the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking, the loaves can be removed from the pans for a crustier bread. Brush with water and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1¼ cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1 cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, butter, molasses, cornmeal, and whole wheat flour and pulse until the ingredients are incorporated. Add 1 cup of the all-purpose flour and the salt and pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Process or pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Or turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly by hand for several minutes. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine
6 tablespoons molasses
¾ cup medium-grind yellow cornmeal
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1½ to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the butter, molasses, cornmeal, whole wheat flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more all-purpose flour if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). More all-purpose flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. If the motor becomes excessively strained, use first speed. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Cornmeal Bread
Cornmeal Bread is the perfect accompaniment to barbecue or beans and anything Southern or Southwestern in origin. It is less sweet than muffins or corn sticks and toasts beautifully. For a soul-satisfying breakfast, try two thick slices of this bread lightly toasted and served with butter and maple syrup, pancake style. Fresh bananas or blueberries in season make a perfect side dish.
1 cup water 1 egg, beaten
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
¼ cup sugar
½ cup medium-grind yellow cornmeal
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons shortening or margarine
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a small bowl, combine the water, egg, and milk powder and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the sugar, cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon or rotary beater until incorporated. Turn out into a greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pan.
BAKING Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for approximately 25 minutes. A toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean and the top should spring back when lightly pressed with your fingertips.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Add all of the ingredients to the work bowl at one time and pulse for a few seconds until fully incorporated. Turn out into a greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pan. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
4 cups water
4 eggs, beaten
1⅓ cups skim milk powder
1 cup sugar
½ cup shortening or margarine, melted
2 cups medium-grind yellow cornmeal
6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons baking powder
4 teaspoons salt
In the mixing bowl, combine the water, eggs, milk powder, sugar, and shortening; mix at first speed to combine. Add the cornmeal and flour, then add the baking powder and salt and lightly stir them through the flour with your fingertips.
Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the flour is incorporated. Turn out into 4 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Honey Oatmeal Bread
Honey for natural sweetness, oatmeal to retain moisture and add flavor, and cornmeal for texture all combine to make this unusual breakfast loaf. This wholesome bread can turn eggs and breakfast meat into a Sunday treat. It is my version of a bread I found in an upstate New York mountaintop inn where people drive miles out of their way to have breakfast. They come for the view and the home-cured bacon as well as the wonderful bread. Hardly anyone leaves without a loaf of hot bread to take home. The bread is so tasty that it can stand alone, served warm from the oven or lightly toasted. Serve with butter and jam and a big cup of steaming coffee.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
½ cup honey
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 cup cooked oatmeal
¼ cup medium-grind yellow cornmeal
3 to 3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, softened
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (25 to 30 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and add the honey, milk powder, and oatmeal. In a separate bowl, combine the cornmeal, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add this mixture to the sponge and stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Continue kneading until the dough becomes smooth and silky and has an elastic feel (8 to 10 minutes). Cut the dough in half, shape into rounds, cover, and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape the rounds into pan loaves (see this page), then place in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, seam down. Place in a warm, draft-free area, cover with a clean cloth, and allow to rise until the loaves form nicely rounded tops and rise above the top of the pans.
Gently brush the tops with water or melted butter and slash each loaf lengthwise down the center with a sharp knife or razor blade. Place the pans on a baking sheet or oven stone.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the crust is golden brown (35 to 45 minutes). When done, the loaf will emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips. The loaves can be removed from the loaf pans for the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking for crustier bread.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the sponge, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water and flour; process until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge. Add the honey, milk powder, oatmeal, cornmeal, 3 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), the salt, and the butter. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand may be necessary to make the dough elastic. Process as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
½ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2½ cups ice water
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
¾ cup honey
1 cup skim milk powder
1½ cups cooked oatmeal
6 tablespoons medium-grind yellow cornmeal
6 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine
4½ to 5¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water and flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and let rise until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the honey, milk powder, oatmeal, cornmeal, butter, 4½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the side of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Portuguese Corn Bread
When I first came upon this bread, also known as broa, in a Portuguese bakery, I was surprised because it seemed central European to me. This bread requires a hot oven and it likes a great deal of steam. Made up of a combination of flours, it is heavy, moist, and crusty. Broa keeps well for 1 week or longer in a paper bag in a bread box. Four people can easily devour an entire loaf in one sitting.
Sponge
1 cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1½ cups bread flour
Boil
¾ cup cold water
¼ cup cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup cold water
Dough
1 cup corn flour (see Note)
2 to 3 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Potato or bread flour, for dusting loaves
BAKER’S SECRET
Potato flour dusted onto the top of the loaf before baking cracks haphazardly in the oven, creating crisp fissures that add to the bread’s unique flavor and texture.
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
BOIL While waiting for the sponge to rise, bring the ¾ cup cold water to a rapid boil. Slowly add the cornstarch solution, stirring constantly. Bring to a second boil, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool.
DOUGH When the sponge has risen, add the cooled cornstarch solution, the corn flour, 2 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. The dough should be kept softer than usual.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more bread flour in small amounts if the dough is too sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth (5 to 8 minutes). This should be a soft dough.
SHAPING Dust a baking sheet heavily with flour or cornmeal. Cut the dough in half and shape each half into a ball. Place on the baking sheet, leaving ample room for the loaves to spread. Dust the loaves well with potato flour. Cover and set aside to proof for 45 to 60 minutes. A series of fine cracks should develop in the flour if it is not disturbed.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 475°F. Five minutes before baking, place a heavy shallow pan on the floor of the oven. When the oven is hot, place the bread in the oven. Protecting your face and hands from the initial burst of steam, carefully pour 2 cups of hot water into the pan, then shut the door quickly. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes, and if using a stone or tiles, transfer the loaves directly onto them for the last 10 minutes. Allow the bread to bake until the crust is hard and dark, almost to the point of becoming black on the edges. The top and sides should be hard when pressed, and the loaves should emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE Corn flour is available in some specialty and natural foods stores. You can substitute fine or medium-grind cornmeal by grinding it into a fine powder, ¼ cup at a time, in a blender or food processor.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and pulse until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
BOIL While waiting for the sponge to rise, bring the ¾ cup water to a rapid boil. Slowly add the cornstarch solution, stirring constantly. Bring to a second boil, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool.
DOUGH When the sponge has risen, add the cornstarch solution, the corn flour, 2 cups of the bread flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary. This dough should be softer than usual. Process for 1 to 2 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
1½ cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2¼ cups bread flour
Boil
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
6 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in ⅓ cup cold water
Dough
1½ cups corn flour (see Note above)
3 to 4½ cups bread flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Potato flour, for dusting loaves
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and let rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
BOIL Bring the water to a boil. Slowly add the cornstarch solution, stirring constantly. Bring to a second boil, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool.
DOUGH When the sponge has risen, add the cooled cornstarch solution, the corn flour, 3 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse until the dry ingredients are incorporated. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Swap the beater for the dough hook. Run at first speed for 5 to 8 minutes. You can add more flour ¼ cup at a time, but this dough should be wet. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape the dough into 3 rounds.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Potato Bread
Long before the invention of modern yeast, potatoes and the starchy water in which they were boiled were used to leaven bread. Today we use potatoes and their boiling water for the flavor and tenderness they impart to the finished bread. Potato breads keep exceptionally well in a bread box or the refrigerator and can also be frozen. Friends in the Midwest still compete at fairs and food shows, justifiably proud of their potato breads, some of which come from family recipes handed down through the generations. My father often spoke about potato breads that were baked in Europe when he was a young man. Although we now have potato flour, potato starch, and instant potato flakes available for baking, I like this recipe using fresh mashed potatoes and the water in which they cooked. You can use instant mashed potatoes, but you won’t get the benefits of the potato water.
2½ cups water
1 medium potato
¼ cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
2 tablespoons sugar
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Bring the 2½ cups water to a boil. Wash and thoroughly scrub the potato, then quarter and cook in the boiling water until soft (approximately 10 minutes). Drain, reserving 2 cups of the potato water. Let cool, then peel and mash. Extra potato water can be refrigerated and used in any yeast recipe for added nutritive value and tenderizing power.
DOUGH In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Stir together the cooled mashed potato and butter and add to the yeast along with the 2 cups reserved potato water. Add the sugar, milk powder, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Potato dough will remain a little sticky.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead, adding more flour if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled mixing bowl and turn to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Punch down, cut in half, shape into 2 balls, and allow to rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, cover, and set aside in a warm, draft-free place to proof, covered, until the loaves rise above the tops of the pans. Dust the loaves with flour and cut a deep slash down the length of each.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake until the loaves emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (about 50 minutes). The sides should feel firm. If necessary, return the bread to the oven for an additional 5 to 10 minutes. For the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking, remove from the pans and place on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. Remove from the pans and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Variation
Shape into 2 round loaves or 1 large one, then proof, covered, on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet, until doubled in size. Dust with flour and slash the tops in a tic-tac-toe pattern. The large loaf will require extra baking time.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Prepare the potato as above. In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the mashed potato, butter, 2 cups reserved potato water, sugar, milk powder, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Process until smooth. Add 2 more cups of flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Pulse or process for 1 to 2 minutes. If the machine begins to strain, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. If necessary, finish kneading by hand until the dough is elastic.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead into a ball. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3½ cups water
1½ medium potatoes
6 tablespoons warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
½ cup skim milk powder
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
Prepare the potatoes as above, using 3½ cups water and reserving 3 cups.
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Stir in the cooked mashed potato and the 3 cups reserved potato water. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 7½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough remains too soft. Potato dough will remain a little sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes), adding more flour if necessary. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to further develop the gluten. If the motor strains and threatens to stop, use first speed. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Potato Rye Bread with Onion and Caraway
My father’s recipe for sourdough potato rye bread is adapted here for quick preparation, richer flavor, and a softer crust. These breads were often proofed in floured and cloth-lined baskets and tipped upside down onto peels so that they baked with interesting designs on the crust. This bread is an excellent accompaniment for a cheese platter, roasted garlic, or hors d’oeuvres. Try it for open-faced sandwiches with cured meats and roasted bell peppers.
1 medium to small yellow onion, minced
2 tablespoons caraway seeds, or more to taste
Pinch of salt
Vegetable or olive oil, for sautéing
1 cup warm water, preferably potato water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 medium to small potato, mashed (about ½ cup mashed potato; see Note)
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon shortening or margarine
3 tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
2 cups rye flour
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In a small skillet over medium-low heat, sauté the onion, caraway seeds, and the pinch of salt in the oil just long enough to soften the onion. Set aside.
DOUGH In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the mashed potato, sugar, shortening, milk powder, flours, and the 1½ teaspoons salt. Stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead. If the dough is moist and sticky, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time. Knead until elastic (5 to 8 minutes). The dough will be stickier than usual.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Punch down, shape into 1 or 2 balls, and allow to rest, covered, for 15 minutes. Knead in the sautéed onion mixture.
SHAPING Shape into 1 or 2 round loaves. Place on a baking sheet dusted with rye flour or cornmeal, then cover and set aside in a warm, draft-free area to proof until doubled in size. Dust the tops with additional all-purpose flour and cut decorative slashes.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) for 35 to 45 minutes. The bread is done when tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow thump. If 1 large loaf is made, allow for additional baking time; check every 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 or 2 loaves.
NOTE Scrub the potato. Cook, quartered, in 2½ cups boiling water until soft (about 10 minutes). Let cool, then peel and mash. Store extra potato water in the refrigerator for use in any bread recipe. Instant mashed potatoes can be used, but you lose the added benefit of the potato water.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water, preferably potato water
Prepare the sautéed onions as above. In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, mashed potato, sugar, shortening, milk powder, and the 2 cups rye flour, 1 cup at a time. Mix until the flour is incorporated. Blend in the all-purpose flour and salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft, but keep in mind that this dough will be on the soft side. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix, since the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 or 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1 medium to large yellow onion, minced
3 tablespoons caraway seeds, or more to taste
Pinch of salt
Vegetable oil, preferably olive oil, for sautéing
1½ cups warm water, preferably potato water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1 medium to large potato, mashed (¾ cup mashed potato; see Note above)
1½ tablespoons sugar
1½ tablespoons shortening
4½ tablespoons milk powder (optional)
3 cups rye flour
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Prepare the onions as above. In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the mashed potato, sugar, shortening, milk powder, flours, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (5 to 8 minutes). Add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but bear in mind that rye doughs are normally soft and somewhat sticky.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 1, 2, or 3 rounds.
YIELD Makes 1 to 3 loaves.
Sweet Rye Bread with Potato
German bakers whom I knew made this version of rye bread. The potatoes keep the bread moist and give it a long shelf life. We made this in the bakery with stubby rounded ends to distinguish it from our sour rye bread, which had pointed ends. Many people like the sweet flavor that the molasses imparts to this bread.
¼ cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 cups mashed potatoes (see Note)
1 cup potato water (see Note)
½ cup molasses
2 cups rye flour
2¼ to 3¼ cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Cornmeal, for dusting pans
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the potatoes, potato water, molasses, rye flour, 2¼ cups of the first clear flour, salt, and caraway seeds. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more first clear flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but bear in mind that doughs with rye flour or potatoes will remain a little sticky.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until the dough feels smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes), adding more first clear flour if necessary.
RISING Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (about 45 minutes). Punch down, cut in half, shape into rounds, and allow to rest, covered, for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape the dough into 2 free-standing pan loaves or 1 large free-standing pan loaf (see this page). Place on a cornmeal-dusted baking pan, then cover and set aside in a warm, draft-free place to proof until the loaves double in size. Cut each loaf with 3 horizontal slashes. Brush with water or the cornstarch solution, or dust the tops with flour.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake until the loaf emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). The large loaf will require extra baking time (about 50 to 60 minutes altogether). The sides should feel firm. When using tiles or an oven stone, finish baking on them for the last 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 or 2 loaves.
NOTES Wash and thoroughly scrub 2 or 3 medium to large potatoes. Quarter and cook in boiling water to cover until soft (approximately 10 minutes). Drain, reserving 1 cup of the potato water. Peel the potatoes, mash, and set aside 2 cups mashed potatoes to cool. Any extra potato water can be refrigerated and used in any yeast recipe for extra nutritive value and tenderizing power. You can use instant mashed potatoes, but you lose the benefits of the potato water. In place of the first clear flour, you can substitute 1 cup cake flour and 1¼ to 2¼ cups all-purpose flour.
Shape into 2 round loaves or 1 large one. Proof, covered, on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or rye flour until doubled in size. Dust the tops with rye flour and slash several times. Bake as above.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the dough, instead of 1 cup potato water use:
1 cup chilled potato water or cold water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the mashed potatoes, chilled potato water, molasses, rye flour, 2¼ cups of the first clear flour (add the flours 1 cup at a time), salt, and caraway seeds. Pulse until the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but bear in mind that doughs with rye flour or potatoes will remain a little sticky. Pulse or process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine begins to strain, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead into a ball. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 or 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
6 tablespoons warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 cups mashed potatoes (see Note)
1½ cups potato water (see Note)
¾ cup molasses
3 cups rye flour
3½ to 4¾ cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the mashed potatoes, potato water, molasses, rye flour, 3½ cups of the first clear flour, salt, and caraway seeds. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more first clear flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough remains too soft, but bear in mind that doughs with rye flour or potatoes will remain a little sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough feels smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes), adding more first clear flour if necessary. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to further develop the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
NOTES Wash and thoroughly scrub 3 to 4 medium to large potatoes. Quarter and cook in boiling water to cover until soft (approximately 10 minutes). Drain, reserving 1½ cups of the potato water. Peel the potatoes, mash, and set aside 3 cups mashed potatoes to cool. Any extra potato water can be refrigerated and used in any yeast recipe for extra nutritive value and tenderizing power. You can use instant mashed potatoes, but you lose the benefits of the potato water. In place of first clear flour, you can substitute 1½ cups cake flour and 2 to 3¼ cups all-purpose flour, but it does not work as well.
Potatonik
In the late 1950s, we called these yeast-baked Jewish potato puddings “Spudniks,” a takeoff on Sputnik, the first Russian space satellite. We baked these zesty onion loaves laced with black pepper every week from Thursday through Sunday. It became a tradition that the first loaves out of the oven always had to be tested by the entire baking and sales staff. Often, one had to taste two or three slices before pronouncing them up to standard. One Thursday I observed that an usually timid middle-aged salesclerk appeared to be in distress. When I asked if she was feeling well, her response was, “I think there’s something wrong with the Potatonik today,” while indicating with an unmistakable gesture that a fire was being stoked up inside her chest. A young part-timer who was standing nearby quickly turned away, doubled over with suppressed laughter. Finally, when she could no longer contain herself, the youngster turned and blurted out to the older woman, “Of course you don’t feel well. If I ate two whole Potatonik, I wouldn’t feel well either.”
Potatonik can be used in place of potatoes at any meal. A side dish of applesauce makes an appealing accompaniment. Serve Potatonik warm. It can be refrigerated for several days and reheated before serving. It can also be frozen.
Sponge
1 cup warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
¾ pound potatoes (about 1½ medium potatoes), skins on
6 ounces yellow onions (about 1¼ medium onions), ground or grated
1 small stale roll or 2 slices old bread, torn or in crumbs
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Scant ½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ to ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup vegetable oil
2 lightly beaten eggs
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and set aside until it puffs up (20 to 25 minutes).
DOUGH Preheat the oven to 360°F. Stir down the sponge. Scrub the potatoes, then grind or grate them with the skins on. Add the ground potatoes and onions to the sponge and stir until blended. Add the stale roll, flour, salt, baking powder, and pepper to taste; mix until incorporated. Add the oil and eggs and mix well. Turn out into 3 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. The dough for each loaf should weigh about 15 ounces. Leave room for expansion—the Potatonik will rise in the oven.
BAKING Bake with steam (see this page) until the crust is brown and feels firm when gently pressed in the center with your fingertips (about 1 hour). Let cool in the pans on wire rack for 5 minutes, covered with a cloth, to allow the loaves to steam. Invert and tap out onto the racks. Serve warm. Potatonik can be refrigerated for several days or frozen for 1 to 2 weeks. Reheat at 325°F until warm. When reheating, I like to bake it for 25 to 35 minutes to develop a hard crust.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In a medium bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and set aside until it puffs up (20 to 25 minutes).
Meanwhile, scrub the potatoes, then process the potatoes, onion, and stale roll into a coarse chop; do not purée. Transfer to a large bowl.
DOUGH Preheat the oven to 360°F. Stir the sponge into the potato mixture. Add the flour, salt, baking powder, and pepper and pulse only until the dry ingredients are incorporated. Add the oil and eggs and mix well. Turn out into 3 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. The dough for each loaf should weigh about 15 ounces. Leave room for expansion—the Potatonik will rise in the oven. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
For 3 loaves, you can use the quantities shown in the hand-mixed recipe.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
1½ pounds uncooked potatoes (about 3 medium potatoes), skins on
¾ pound yellow onions (about 2½ medium onions), ground or grated
2 small stale rolls or 4 slices old bread, torn or in crumbs
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
¾ teaspoon baking powder
½ to 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup vegetable oil
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup water
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and set aside until it puffs up (20 to 25 minutes).
DOUGH Preheat the oven to 360°F. Stir down the sponge. Scrub the potatoes, then grate them with the skins on. Mix in the grated potatoes, onions, and stale rolls and stir until blended. Add the flour, salt, baking powder, pepper to taste, oil, egg, and water. Pulse with the on/off switch until incorporated, then mix thoroughly. Turn out into 6 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Leave room for expansion—the Potatonik will rise in the oven. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 6 loaves.
CHAPTER FIVE
Breads of All Nations
Our daily bread, as is our country’s heritage, is rooted in the culture of our immigrant ancestors. Some recipes have remained intact for hundreds of years. Others are derivations that have evolved as bakers strive for perfection. Many of the new breads are in fact old breads rediscovered, or new combinations of ingredients that have been forgotten in the passage of time. The breads that grace our table are from an amalgam of ethnic recipes gathered the world over. Following are the breads of America—the breads of all nations.
Bavarian Farmer Bread
This is a light pumpernickel bread traditionally formed in a round reed basket, which gives it a beehive appearance. You can use any reed or straw basket. Heavy reed baskets need only be dusted with flour. Straw baskets should be lined with thin cloth loosely fastened to the interior with a few sewn stitches. The flour-dusted design makes for an unusually appealing country bread. This bread can also be made as a free-standing loaf or in any round form. Dust with flour and score before baking.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 tablespoons molasses
1 cup rye flour
1 cup pumpernickel flour
3 to 4 cups first clear flour, preferred (see this page), or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the molasses, rye flour, pumpernickel flour, 3 cups of first clear flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of first clear flour as necessary. Knead until smooth and elastic (5 to 8 minutes).
RISING Place the dough in a clean, oiled bowl and turn several times to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Punch down and let stand, covered, until puffy (about 15 minutes).
SHAPING Shape into 1 or 2 round loaves, depending upon the basket size. Place in a basket, top down and well dusted with rye flour. Cover with a cloth and proof in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size. Carefully tip the dough out upside down onto a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet or peel so that the textured design comes out on top.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaf emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (about 45 minutes). If 1 large loaf is made, allow for additional baking time (bake for an additional 15 minutes and check, then continue baking as necessary). Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the previous recipe, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, molasses, rye flour, pumpernickel flour, 1 cup of the first clear flour, and the salt, and mix until all of the ingredients are incorporated. Blend in 2 more cups of the first clear flour, 1 cup at a time, until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not let the dough overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
3 tablespoons molasses
1½ cups rye flour
1½ cups pumpernickel flour
4½ to 6 cups first clear flour, preferred (see this page), or unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the molasses, rye flour, pumpernickel flour, 4½ cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Run at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 1, 2, or 3 rounds.
YIELD Makes 1 large, 2 medium, or 3 small loaves.
Bran Bread
The addition of bran to whole wheat bread makes for a more healthful and tasty loaf. Use this bread anywhere that whole wheat or white flour is used. Substituting shortening or margarine (or half and half) for butter will give you a nondairy loaf.
2 cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened (use it cold in hot weather)
2 tablespoons honey or sugar
1 cup unprocessed bran
2 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Melted butter or water, for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the butter, honey, bran, whole wheat flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt; mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface. Knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Knead until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough and cut in half. Shape into rounds, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Form into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free area until the loaves form nicely rounded tops and rise above the tops of the pans. Make 1 lengthwise slash down the center of each loaf with a sharp blade. Brush the tops with melted butter or water.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the bread is browned and emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). The loaves can be removed from the pans for the last 5 minutes of baking to improve the crust. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, butter, honey, bran, whole wheat flour, and salt. Process until smooth. Add 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overheat. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened (use it cold in hot weather)
3 tablespoons honey or sugar
1½ cups unprocessed bran
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
3 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Melted butter or water, for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the butter, honey, bran, whole wheat flour, 3 cups of the all-purpose flour, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten.
Remove the hook, add oil to the bowl, and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Buttermilk Bread
Buttermilk Bread has an old-fashioned farm flavor and just enough texture to give it a homemade taste. Make this bread with butter and honey, cut thick slices, and serve it warm for breakfast. It is also excellent for sandwiches or topped with apple butter.
½ cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1 cup buttermilk
4 teaspoons honey
2 tablespoons butter or shortening, softened (use it cold in hot weather)
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Melted butter or water, for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the buttermilk, honey, butter, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough and cut in half. Shape into rounds, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free area until the loaves form nicely rounded tops and rise above the tops of the pans. Place the breads on a baking sheet. Punch 3 holes in the crust of each with an ice pick or skewer. Brush the tops with melted butter or water.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). The loaves can be removed from the pans for the last 5 minutes of baking to improve the crust. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Make sure that the buttermilk is cold or iced.
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the cold buttermilk, honey, butter, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 3 cups more flour, 1 cup at a time, and pulse until the dough comes together. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 2 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2½ cups buttermilk
2 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons butter or shortening or 1½ tablespoons of each
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Melted butter or water, for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the buttermilk, honey, butter, 7½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten.
Remove the hook, add oil to the bowl, and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Carrot Bread
A slightly sweet flavor and attractive orange flecks from the carrots make this a colorful and festive bread. It is also rich in vitamins and exceptionally nutritious. It goes well with cheese dishes and salads and can replace whole wheat or white bread for party sandwiches. Grinding and shredding the carrots each offers a different bite to the bread; try both ways if you wish.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter or shortening, softened
2 cups ground or shredded carrots (about 4 medium carrots)
6 tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
1 cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon salt
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and add the sugar, butter, carrots, milk powder, wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, and salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Knead until the dough is soft and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Cut the dough into thirds, shape into rounds, and let rest, covered, for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 3 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 3 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth and let rise until the tops are 1 inch above the tops of the pans (45 to 60 minutes). When the bread is fully proofed, cut 3 diagonal slashes down the length of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (25 to 35 minutes). Remove from the pans for the last 5 minutes and bake on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. The bread is done when it emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips and the sides feel hard and crisp.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and process while slowly pouring the ice water into the processor. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to punch down the sponge, then add the sugar, butter, carrots, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, and salt. Pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand will be necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
3 cups ground or shredded carrots (about 6 medium carrots)
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon skim milk powder (optional)
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1½ to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (35 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater. Add the sugar, butter, carrots, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1½ cups of the all-purpose flour, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Run the machine at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (35 to 45 minutes). Turn out onto a floured surface, cut into 4 pieces, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow the dough to rest for 15 minutes. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 4 loaves.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Challah
Challah, or egg bread, is a sweet, egg-rich, festive-looking bread with an elegant mahogany hue. This bread was originally baked by Jewish families to grace the Sabbath or holiday table. Years ago, bakery customers who were unfamiliar with the name would ask for “the Friday bread.”
Challah can be made up in different shapes, ranging from a sectioned pan loaf to fancy and intricate braids (see “Braiding Challah,” below). On certain holidays it is made into a round, turban-shaped bread. Today its use is becoming universal. It is found in ethnic bakeries and food markets of all kinds. Challah is often used as a centerpiece at Sunday dinner and appears on many Easter tables. When the bread is baked in braided form, it is customary to break off small knobs of it rather than cutting or slicing it. One literally breaks bread with guests and family. Leftover challah makes the best French toast I’ve ever eaten.
Challah dough is also used as rich egg roll dough and is made into many varieties of party or dinner rolls (see this page). In hot weather it’s advisable to use cold ingredients to keep the dough temperature from becoming too high.
1 cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup plus 1½ teaspoons sugar
4 to 4½ cups bread flour (see Note)
2 teaspoons salt
Vegetable oil, for coating bowl
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Poppy or sesame seeds, for topping (optional)
Cornmeal, for dusting baking pan
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the egg, egg yolks, oil, sugar, 4 cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky or very soft. The dough should be firm. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and the gluten is well developed (10 to 15 minutes). When you push down, the dough should feel firm and push back.
RISING Transfer to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and let rise, covered, until tripled in volume (30 to 40 minutes). When fully risen, an indentation made with a finger pushed down into the center of the dough should remain and not recede. This is a fully aged, or ready, dough. Punch down the dough, cut in half, cover, and allow to rise for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Punch down again and, on a very lightly floured work surface, use your palms to roll the pieces into 2 ropes, at least 12 inches long. Cut each into 6 equal pieces and braid (see “Six-Strand Braid,” this page) or make up into a 6-section pan challah, (see “Section Challah,” this page). Brush with the egg wash, using care to cover completely, but do not let excess egg drip into the crevices. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds if desired.
If you are making the braided challah, transfer the challah to a cornmeal-dusted baking pan. For section challah, place the loaves in 2 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Place in a warm, draft-free area, preferably enclosed, and allow to rise until doubled in size.
BAKER’S SECRET
Before sprinkling with the seeds, allow the egg wash to air-dry, then brush with egg wash a second time. This will give the bread its characteristic shine.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven until the loaves have a rich mahogany color and emit a hollow sound when tapped lightly on the bottom with your fingertips (35 minutes). If the top begins to brown excessively and the bottom is raw, cover the bread with a sheet of parchment paper or aluminum foil that has been creased down the center to form a tent. If there is a white line visible between the braids, continue baking until it disappears. To test for doneness, press lightly between the braids on the highest part of the bread; it should be firm. If you feel the creases give when lightly pressed, continue baking until they firm up. Let cool on a wire rack. Challah keeps very well for several days in a plastic bag in a bread box. It can be frozen; defrost slowly, preferably wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE You can substitute all-purpose flour for bread flour, but the challah will not be as light or tender.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, egg, egg yolks, oil, sugar, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt; pulse to combine. Add 2 more cups of flour 1 cup at a time. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary. The dough should be firm. Pulse until the dough forms up into a ball, then continue pulsing for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. If using a dough thermometer, keep the dough at 78°F to 82°F. Do not overmix. If necessary, knead by hand until the dough is smooth and elastic and the gluten is well developed. When you push down, the dough should be firm and push back. Knead together and shape into a ball. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
1 cup ice water
1½ eggs, lightly beaten
3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
7 tablespoons sugar
6 to 6¾ cups bread flour (see Note above)
1 tablespoon salt
Vegetable oil, for coating bowl
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Poppy or sesame seeds, for topping (optional)
Cornmeal, for dusting baking pan
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, eggs, egg yolks, oil, sugar, 6 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. This bread requires a firmer dough than normal.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed for 15 minutes, or until the dough feels firm and pushes back. Do not leave the mixer unattended. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Braiding Challah
Many different braids and shapes can be used for making challah. In my bakery we made a 6-strand braided challah (see this page) and I recommend this shape for home bakers. It is the result of many years of trial and error when teaching new bakers. It takes some practice, but it is worth the effort.
Top Challah
The Top Challah uses two 3-strand braids, one placed on top of the other, and this is a festive, professional-looking bread. We baked very large top challahs, often 6 feet in length, in the shop for large centerpieces. These were baked for weddings, confirmations, banquets, etc.
Prepare the challah dough (see previous recipe). Divide the dough into 4 pieces. (I suggest also using 4 pieces for the stand mixer recipe; you will have a larger, more beautiful table bread.)
Take 1 piece and cut it into thirds. When braided, these 3 small pieces will form the top and the large pieces will be the base. While working, keep the dough covered with a cloth. Begin with the large pieces. Use little or no flour to make the braids. If the dough sticks, a very light dusting will suffice. On the work surface, use your palms to roll the pieces out into ropes about 12 inches long, thick in the center and with tapered ends. If a strip resists stretching, set it aside to rest and go on to the next. Continue rolling them in turn until all have achieved the desired length. Set aside, cover, and allow to rest for a few minutes.

Do the same with the smaller pieces, rolling them out into thinner 12-inch ropes.
Make two 3-strand braids. Start with the larger pieces and begin braiding from the center down to the end. Bring the left strand over the center, then the right strand over the center. Repeat, left over right, right over left, until you reach the end. Flip the braid over on its opposite side and turn top to bottom. Complete the braid and pinch the ends tightly together to close. Braid the smaller strands in the same manner.
BAKER’S SECRET
To prevent the top braid from sliding off to one side during baking, make a crease or an indentation down the length of the bottom braid and place the top strand on the crease.
With your fingertips, press out a straight line of indentations down the center not quite to the ends. Strike the indentations with the side of your hand to form one continuous line. A thin dowel or even a pencil can be used to widen the crease. Dip your fingers in water and lightly moisten the entire length of the crease. Set the smaller braid on top of the moistened crease and press down gently, pinching all the ends together tightly. For the Top Challah it would be helpful for the home baker to use 4 to 6 wooden skewers to secure the top to the bottom section. They can be removed after baking. Brush with egg wash. Allow to proof, covered, until not quite doubled in size and the braid feels firm when lightly touched on the sides. Brush with egg wash a second time for high gloss.
The bread will spring up in the oven. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes. If the top begins to brown before the challah is fully cooked, cover with a tent of parchment paper so that the top does not burn while the center is allowed to bake.
BAKER’S SECRET
Poppy seeds can be decoratively applied by wetting your thumbs, pressing them into the seeds, then pressing the seeds onto the sides of the bottom braid, forming an oval pattern.
Section Challah (Pan Loaf)
One recipe will yield 2 loaves (3 in the stand mixer recipe). Divide each round into 6 equal pieces and roll into balls. With your palms, gently roll the balls into small oblongs not more than the width of your hand. Line up 6 of these sections in a well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pan. Brush carefully with egg wash. In my bakery we used to line up the oblongs on the benchtop in rows of 6, brush with egg wash, then with both hands pick up all 6 pieces at once and place them in the pan.

Variation
Place a 3-strand braided challah (see “Top Challah,” this page) in a well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pan. When baked, it will form a rectangular loaf with a braided top.

Turban (Round Challah)
These breads are generally baked for the Jewish High Holidays of Rosh Hashanah (the Jewish New Year) and Yom Kippur (the Day of Atonement). Made from a long single strand shaped into a coil, they rise into a turban-shaped bread when baked.
Prepare one recipe and divide it in half. Roll each piece into a fat rope and allow to rest for several minutes. Leaving one end thick, roll once more with your palms, lengthening the strand and tapering the other end to a point. You should end up with two 18- to 24-inch lengths, thick on one end and tapered to a point on the other end. Alternate between the two strands to allow them to rest for several minutes.
Take the lengthened strand and, keeping the wide end on the work surface, with one hand lift the tapered end and wind the entire length around the wide center to form a coil. Slip the tip under the coil and press down hard so that it will not open upon rising. Brush with egg wash, place on cornmeal-dusted pans, proof, covered, until doubled in volume, and brush with egg wash a second time before baking. Seeds for topping are optional.
BAKER’S SECRET
Brush with egg wash a second time before baking. The bread can be topped with poppy seeds or sesame seeds.
Six-Strand Braid
This is the standard challah braid that we used in my bakery. It is not difficult, but it requires practice. One cannot visualize this method from reading or studying the diagram. You must have the strips of dough in front of you and follow the directions, making up the braid one step at a time. If an error is made, simply open up the braid and start over.
Prepare one recipe and divide it in half. Cut each half into 6 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a strand about 12 inches long, thick in the center and tapered to a point on each end. Line up 6 strands and pinch the ends together.
Bring strand #6 from the right end over strand #1 and up to the left. Bring strand #1 from the left up to the top right.
You now have a four-legged creature with the arms crossed over each other. Keeping the legs spread apart in pairs, the left arm (as you face it) comes down into the center between the legs.
Bring the outer right leg over and up to form a new top left arm. The top right arm comes down between the legs.
Repeat the pattern. The left outer leg comes up to form the new right arm, and the left arm comes down to the center. The right leg comes up to form the new left arm, and the right arm comes down to the center.
Continue by alternating, left leg up to become right arm, left arm down to the center. Right leg up to become left arm, right arm down to the center, and so on. Finish by pinching the ends tightly closed.
Always keep hold of the last strand you moved so that you remember your location in the pattern. When moving strands, grasp the arms by the ends where hands would be. Grasp the legs where feet would be. Keep the legs spread in pairs so that the arms can easily be brought down to the center. If you become momentarily disoriented when braiding, remember that arms come down, legs come up. If you make an error and become entirely confused, stop, open the braid, and begin again. When done, if there is any doubt turn the bread upside down. The design should be perfectly symmetrical. If not, undo it and begin again.

Six-Strand Braid
Crown Pull-Aparts
This new challah shape is quick and easy to make and even easier to eat. You’ll want to make enough for seconds, because everyone will want more. You may make this in either an 8- or 9-inch cake pan. If you use an 8-inch pan, the bread will be taller; if you use a 9-inch pan, it will be bigger around.
For each pull-apart, divide a section of dough, the equivalent of one challah bread, into 6 equal pieces and roll into balls. I like to weigh them so that they are equal in size. Grease an 8- or 9-inch cake pan, and arrange 5 of the balls, evenly spaced, around the edge of the pan. Place the last ball of dough in the center. Set aside, covered, and allow to rise until the balls fill the pan, touching each other. When fully risen, brush with egg wash. Allow the egg wash to dry, then brush with egg wash a second time for a lacquered shine. When dry, bake in a 375°F oven for about 35 minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside to cool. Place on a serving dish and let the gang pull it all apart. This will keep for up to 3 days in a plastic bag in a bread box or in the refrigerator, or it may be frozen for several weeks.
Sesame Whole Wheat Challah
1 cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup honey
¼ cup sugar
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2½ to 3 cups bread flour (see Note)
1 tablespoon salt
1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Poppy or sesame seeds, for topping
Cornmeal, for dusting baking pan
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the egg, egg yolks, oil, honey, sugar, whole wheat flour, 2½ cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky or very soft. The dough should be firm. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and the gluten is well developed (10 to 15 minutes). When you push down, the dough should feel firm and push back.
RISING Transfer to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and let rise, covered, until tripled in volume. When fully risen, an indentation made with a finger pushed down into the center of the dough should remain and not recede (35 to 40 minutes). This is a fully aged, or ready, dough. Punch down the dough, cut in half, cover, and allow to rise for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Punch down again and, on a very lightly floured work surface, use your palms to roll the pieces into 2 long ropes. Cut each into 6 equal pieces and braid or make up into a six-section pan loaf (see “Section Challah,” this page). Brush with the egg wash, using care to cover completely, but do not let excess egg drip into the crevices. Allow the egg wash to air-dry, then brush with egg wash a second time. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds.
If you are making the braided challah, transfer the bread to a cornmeal-dusted baking pan. For section challah, place the loaves in 2 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Place in a warm, draft-free area, preferably enclosed, cover, and allow to rise until doubled in size.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven until the loaves have a rich mahogany color and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 minutes). If the top begins to brown excessively and the bottom is raw, cover the bread with a sheet of parchment paper or aluminum foil creased down the center to form a tent. If there is a white line visible between the braids, continue baking until it disappears. To test for doneness, press lightly between the braids on the highest part of the bread; it should be firm. If you feel the creases give when lightly pressed, continue baking until they firm up. Let cool on a wire rack. Challah keeps very well for several days in a bread box. It can be frozen; defrost slowly, preferably wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE You can substitute all-purpose flour for bread flour, but the challah will not be as light or tender.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, egg, egg yolks, oil, honey, sugar, whole wheat flour, ½ cup of the bread flour, and the salt; pulse to combine. Add 2 more cups of the bread flour 1 cup at a time. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary. The dough should be firm. Pulse until the dough forms up into a mass, then continue pulsing for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. If using a dough thermometer, keep the dough at 78°F to 82°F. Do not overmix. If necessary, knead by hand until the dough is smooth and elastic and the gluten is well developed. When you push down, the dough should be firm and push back. Knead together and shape into a ball. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
1½ eggs, lightly beaten (see Note)
3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 tablespoons honey
6 tablespoons sugar
2¼ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
3¾ to 4½ cups bread flour (see Note)
1½ tablespoons salt
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Sesame seeds for topping
Cornmeal, for dusting baking pan
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the eggs, egg yolks, oil, honey, sugar, whole wheat flour, 3¾ cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour if necessary. This bread requires a firmer dough than normal.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed for 10 to 15 minutes, until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl. Do not leave the mixer unattended. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
NOTES For ½ egg, lightly beat 1 egg, then spill off approximately half (may be kept for egg wash; add to the surplus egg whites). You can substitute all-purpose flour for bread flour, but the challah will not be as light or tender.
Cheese Bread
This rich, nutritious bread is popular with many farm families. Try making it with assorted hard cheeses to vary the flavor.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
2 cups grated Cheddar cheese (about 8 ounces)
⅔ cup skim milk powder
3 to 3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Vegetable oil or melted butter, for brushing loaves
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for topping
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and add the sugar, butter, Cheddar cheese, milk powder, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Knead until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until puffy (15 to 20 minutes). Cut the dough half, shape into rounds, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape the rounds into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place into 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, seam down. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth and proof in a warm, draft-free area until doubled in size, or the loaves rise 1 inch above the tops of the pans (45 to 60 minutes). Brush the tops with oil or melted butter and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Punch 3 holes in the top of each loaf with an ice pick or a skewer.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the bread is golden brown and emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (25 to 35 minutes).
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Variations
Cheese Swirl
Instead of kneading the cheese into the dough, when shaping, flatten out the dough, sprinkle with the Cheddar (or other) cheese, and form up jelly-roll style. Continue as with Proofing and Baking, above. The cheese will appear as a swirl in the finished bread. This is my favorite; it has more cheese flavor and added eye appeal.
Cheese Bread with Chives and Stuffed Olives
To the dough recipe above add:
2 teaspoons dried chopped chives (1 tablespoon in the stand mixer recipe)
4 ounces sliced stuffed green olives (6 ounces in the stand mixer recipe)
Add the chives with the dry ingredients. Before shaping the loaves, flatten out the dough, sprinkle with the sliced stuffed olives, and form up jelly-roll style. Continue as with Proofing and Baking, above. For an Italian variation, try strong pitted black olives and Gorgonzola cheese. The better olives will have to be pitted by hand, but it is worth the extra work.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and process while slowly pouring the ice water into the processor. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to punch down the sponge, then add the sugar, butter, Cheddar cheese, milk powder, 3 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until puffy (15 to 20 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
3 cups grated Cheddar cheese (about 12 ounces)
1 cup skim milk powder
4½ to 5¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Vegetable oil or melted butter, for brushing loaves
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for topping
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the sugar, butter, Cheddar cheese, milk powder, 4½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Run the machine at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until puffy (15 to 20 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Cinnamon Raisin Bread
This all-time breakfast favorite is good plain or toasted with butter or jam. Kids love it at snack time. It has much less fat and fewer calories than coffee cake or cookies.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter or shortening,
softened (use it cold in hot weather)
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Filling
¼ cup melted butter or vegetable oil
1 cup raisins, or more to taste
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar (optional)
2 tablespoons to ½ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon to 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, or more to taste
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough and cut in half. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING AND FILLING Roll the dough out into a rectangle 12 to 14 inches long and 6 inches wide. Brush with the melted butter, then sprinkle with the raisins.
Sprinkle lightly with the brown sugar. Combine the granulated sugar and cinnamon (use the larger amounts if rolling the baked loaves in additional cinnamon sugar; see below) and sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the cinnamon sugar over the surface. Roll up jelly-roll style and form into pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free area until the loaves rise above the tops of the pans. Stipple 3 holes down the center of each loaf.
BAKER’S SECRET
In my bakery, we used to spread the dough with a little Wine Loaf batter (this page) instead of melted butter before sprinkling on the raisins. This enriches the bread. We also used to dust additional ground cinnamon atop the cinnamon sugar.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). Let cool on a wire rack. If desired, while the loaves are still warm, spread the remaining cinnamon sugar in a pan, brush the breads all over with melted butter or oil, and roll them in the cinnamon sugar.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Whole Wheat Cinnamon Raisin Bread
Substitute 2 cups whole wheat flour for 2 cups of the all-purpose flour (3 for 3 for the stand mixer).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, sugar, butter, milk powder, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 3 more cups flour (1 cup at a time) and pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Filling and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter or shortening
1 cup skim milk powder (optional)
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon salt
Filling
6 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil
1½ cups raisins, or more to taste
6 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar (optional)
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon, or more to taste
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, 7½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten.
Add the oil to the bowl and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Filling and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Cottage Cheese and Chive Bread
I first had this tasty bread at a luncheon at the Culinary Institute of America. It goes well with salads, cold dishes, vegetarian meals, and dairy dishes. Made up into little rolls, it works with appetizers, buffets, and assorted spreads. Here is my version.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
1 cup dry curd cottage cheese
1 cup bread flour
2 to 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons chopped chives, preferably fresh
2 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and add the sugar, butter, cottage cheese, bread flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, the chives, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Knead until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). Punch down and allow to rise until doubled once more. Cut the dough in half, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow to rest for 5 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 baguette-shaped loaves (see this page). Place the loaves on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth and allow to rise 45 to 60 minutes, until doubled in size. When the bread is fully proofed, cut 3 diagonal slashes down the length of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 450°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (25 to 35 minutes). For the last 5 minutes of baking, remove from the pans and place on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. The bread is done when it emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips and the sides feel hard and crisp.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Variation
Sweet Dairy Rolls
When shaping, roll out into 2 ropes and cut each into 8 equal pieces. Roll into balls and either leave them round or taper the ends to points. Place on greased baking sheets, leaving room between each roll for expansion. Proof, covered, until doubled in size, slash once down the length of each, and bake as above until browned and crisp (15 to 20 minutes).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the sponge, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and process until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to punch down the sponge, then add the sugar, butter, cottage cheese, bread flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour (1 cup at a time), the chives, and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). Punch down and allow to rise until doubled once more (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
1½ cups dry curd cottage cheese
1½ cups bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
3 to 3¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon chopped chives, preferably fresh
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the sugar, butter, cottage cheese, bread flour, 3 cups of the all-purpose flour (1 cup at a time), the chives, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). Punch down and allow to rise once again until doubled. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Cracked Wheat Bread
This whole grain bread has a light texture and flavor. The whole wheat provides nutritional value, while the white flour allows the dough to rise better and produce a softer bread. Many people prefer whole wheat bread with cracked wheat because the whole grain adds crunch and distinction to the bite. This bread is good for sandwiches and toasts well.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
4 teaspoons sugar
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons butter or shortening
2 cups cooked wheat berries (preferred)
or cracked wheat cereal (see Note)
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flours and mix until smooth. Cover set aside in a warm place until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH In another large bowl, combine the sugar, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Cut in the butter. Add the cooked wheat berries and the sponge. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes). It should push back when pressed and your hand should come away clean. Cut the dough in half, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow to rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, until the tops are nicely rounded tops and the loaves rise above the tops of the pans. Brush the loaves with water and slash once lengthwise down the center of each loaf with a sharp knife or razor blade.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) on the middle shelf of the oven until the loaves have a brown color and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE Wheat berries are generally available in natural foods stores. Coarsely grind them in small batches in a blender or grinder. The flavor derived from using freshly ground wheat berries is worth the extra work. Otherwise, use cracked wheat cereal, also available at natural foods stores. For 2 cups cooked wheat berries or cereal, use ½ cup wheat berries or cracked wheat cereal to 1½ cups water. Let cool before adding to the dough.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and pulse until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in size (about 30 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge, then add the sugar, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, salt, butter, and cooked wheat berries. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and tries to ride up on top of the blade. Process for about 1 minute. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2¼ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
1½ to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter or shortening
1 cup skim milk powder (optional)
3 cups cooked cracked wheat berries (preferred) or cracked wheat cereal (see Note)
1 tablespoon salt
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flours and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add 1½ cups of the all-purpose flour, the whole wheat flour, sugar, butter, milk powder, cooked wheat berries, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too moist or soft, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 5 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
NOTE See also Note above. To make 3 cups cooked wheat berries or cracked wheat cereal, use 6 tablespoons wheat berries or cereal to 2¼ cups water. Let cool before adding to the dough.
French Bread
Americans have an ongoing love affair with French foods. Among those we encounter most often are the pale, crusty loaves of real French bread. The basic loaf is made using only flour, water, yeast, and salt. It is the procedure that creates the distinctive qualities of this very special bread. Consequently, follow the procedure carefully and your breads will have that authentic French appeal.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups bread flour
Dough
2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge, then add 2 cups of the flour and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding ¼ cup of flour at a time if necessary. This dough is kept on the soft side and is easy to knead. When the dough feels good to you, knead for 15 to 20 minutes more. While kneading, pick up the dough occasionally and bang it down on the work surface; this will help aerate the dough and strengthen the gluten, which is so necessary for this bread. Stretching the dough from time to time will add elasticity. The finished dough will become airy, push back under your hands, and feel very smooth.
RISING Turn out into a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with a towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free area until puffed up (about 30 minutes). Punch down the dough and allow to rise a second time until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Cut the dough in half, shape into 2 balls, cover, and let rest for 5 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 thin baguettes (see this page) about 1 inch in diameter. Place on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet or on greased baguette pans (see this page) if available.
Cover with a damp cloth and allow to rise in a warm, draft-free area for 45 to 60 minutes. Brush the loaves with water and cut 3 or more diagonal slashes with a sharp knife or razor blade. Cut with the knife held at a 20-degree angle, not straight down into the bread. This will cause the bread to break open, or bloom, in the oven, forming crisp, thick edges.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 475°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the bread is brown and very crusty and emits a hollow sound when you tap the bottom with your fingertips (25 to 35 minutes). For the last 10 minutes of baking, remove from the pans and place on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. The crust should feel hard when squeezed gently on the sides. If the bread still appears pale in color, bake an additional 5 to 10 minutes to develop a crustier loaf. Let cool, uncovered, on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 baguettes.
Whole Wheat French Bread
Use bread flour in the sponge and substitute whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground, for the all-purpose flour in the dough. If bread flour is not available, use all-purpose flour in its place.
French Bread Rolls
Mix white or whole wheat French bread dough, as above. When ready to shape, roll out into 2 ropes (3 ropes in the stand mixer recipe) and divide each into 9 equal pieces. Let the ropes rest, then form into little baguettes shapes. Place on greased baking sheets, allowing room for the rolls to rise. Proof, covered, slash once down the center of each, and bake with steam as above until crisp on all sides and light brown in color (12 to 18 minutes).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water to soften. Add the flour and pulse until smooth. Keep the processor’s cover in place and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge, then add 2 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time) and the salt. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and tries to ride up on top of the blade. Add more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Pulse or process for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overheat. (If you use a dough thermometer, do not exceed 78°F to 84°F.) If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. This dough will be softer than usual. It may be necessary to knead by hand for several minutes to make the dough more elastic and airy. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 baguettes.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups bread flour
Dough
3 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes).
DOUGH Punch down the sponge by stirring at first speed, then add 3 cups of the flour and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Continue mixing at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed for 12 to 15 minutes, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but do keep this dough a little soft. You can run the mixer at second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 or 4 baguettes.
YIELD Makes 3 or 4 baguettes.
Fougasse
This crispy flat bread originated in the south of France. Baked in a traditional oval or triangular shape, these breads are almost all crust and are somewhat similar to focaccia. They can be used with any meal or as snacks. Be sure to bake more than one per person. They have been known to disappear from the table before everyone sits down to the meal. The sponge is best prepared the night before baking, or preferably 24 hours in advance, and left at room temperature.
Sponge
½ cup warm water
½ teaspoon active dry yeast
¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
4 tablespoons vegetable oil or olive oil
3 to 4 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking pans
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and allow to stand overnight or for 24 hours at room temperature.
DOUGH Stir down the sponge, then add the water, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the oil, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Using your fingertips, lightly distribute the salt into a depression in the top of the flour. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to a large oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume.
Turn out onto a floured surface and punch down. Cut into 3 equal pieces, shape into rounds, and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING With a rolling pin or French rolling stick, roll out into ovals 9 to 10 inches long. Let the pieces rest until a bit puffy. Stretch or roll out into a long fan shape (a triangle) about 9 inches wide and 11 inches long. Place on 3 cornmeal-dusted baking sheets, 2 to a pan. Slash the breads with 5 long incisions following the fan shape, leaving a margin of about 1 to 1½ inches from both the top and the bottom. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth and allow to rise until puffy and doubled in size (35 to 40 minutes).
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (about 25 minutes). These thin breads bake very quickly and must be watched carefully. The bread is done when it has good color on the top and bottom. Serve warm or within a few hours, since fougasse is mostly crust and dries out quickly.
YIELD Makes 3 fougasse.
Fougasse with Kosher Imitation Bacon Bits
Add 2 tablespoons bacon bits (3 tablespoons in the stand mixer recipe) to the dough before the final kneading.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE Prepare the sponge as above, but use a small bowl.
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and transfer to the work bowl. Soften the yeast in the warm water and add to the work bowl along with the oil, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse until incorporated. Add 1 more cup of the flour and mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, then pulse or process for 1 to 2 minutes more. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to a large oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 3 fougasse.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
¾ cup warm water
¾ teaspoon active dry yeast
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons bread flour (preferred) or unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
6 tablespoons butter or olive oil
4½ to 6 cups bread flour (preferred) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. And the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and allow to stand overnight or for 24 hours at room temperature.
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and transfer to the mixing bowl. Soften the yeast in the warm water and add it to the mixing bowl, along with the butter, 4½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix until the dough come away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to a large oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 4 fougasse.
YIELD Makes 4 fougasse.
French Onion Bread
Crisp, thin-crusted, and with a rough country texture, this bread has a savory flavor that enhances soups, salads, and many meat and cheese dishes. The bread is best if the sponge is prepared a day ahead.
Sponge
1 cup warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Onions
2 medium onions
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Dough
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
3½ to 4½ cups bread flour
2 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or flour, for dusting baking sheet
1 tablespoon chopped onion, for topping (optional)
SPONGE In a separate bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm, draft-free spot until bubbly and fermented (a minimum of 4 to 6 hours or, preferably, overnight).
ONIONS Thinly slice the onions, then sauté in the oil over medium-low heat until barely browned. Set aside.
DOUGH In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the water and allow a few minutes to soften. Stir down the sponge and add to the bowl. Add 3½ cups of the flour and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes), then knead in the sautéed onions. If they resist inclusion into the dough, be patient. Continue kneading until incorporated.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until puffy (30 to 40 minutes). Punch down, then let rise a second time until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down, then shape into 2 round loaves. Place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or flour and proof, covered, until doubled in size (about 45 to 60 minutes). Brush the tops of the loaves with water, then cut 4 slashes in the form of a number sign (#). A sprinkling of chopped onion can be placed in the center, if desired.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 450°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the bread has a rich color and emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (30 to 35 minutes). For the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking, the loaves can be removed from the pans for a crustier bread. Brush with water and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In a medium bowl, prepare the sponge with ½ cup warm water, as above. Set aside.
DOUGH In the recipe above, instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the sponge, ice water, 1½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse until incorporated, then blend in 2 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process or pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and mix each half separately, then knead together by hand. You may have to knead by hand for a few minutes to make the dough elastic.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead in the sautéed onions. If they resist inclusion into the dough, be patient. Continue kneading until incorporated.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until puffy (30 to 40 minutes). Punch down, then let rise a second time until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
1½ cups warm water
Scant 2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Onions
3 medium onions
1½ tablespoons vegetable oil
Dough
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
5¼ to 6¾ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal or flour, for dusting baking sheet
Chopped onion, for topping (optional)
SPONGE In a separate bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add 2¼ cups flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to stand until bubbly and fermented (a minimum of 4 to 6 hours or, preferably, overnight).
ONIONS Thinly slice the onions, then sauté in the oil over medium-low heat until barely browned. Set aside.
DOUGH In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Stir down the sponge and add to the mixing bowl. Add 5¼ cups of the flour and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Add the reserved onions and mix until incorporated. Be patient if they resist inclusion into the dough. Continue kneading until incorporated.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until puffy (30 to 40 minutes). Punch down and let rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Cholesterol-Free Irish Raisin Bread
Although cholesterol-free and low in fat, calories, and sodium, this bread remains sweet and rich tasting. It is comparable to standard Irish raisin bread but with additional flavors all its own.
1 cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
⅓ cup skim milk powder
2 egg whites, lightly beaten, or ¼ cup egg substitute
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt (optional, see Note)
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cup raisins
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
1 egg white, lightly beaten, for egg wash
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the honey, oil, milk powder, egg whites, 5 cups of the flour, the salt, coriander, and cardamom. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (about 8 minutes). The finished dough should push back when pressed down. Add the raisins and gently knead them into the dough.
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat on all sides. Cover with plastic wrap or a cloth and set aside until doubled in volume. Due to the reduced salt content, this dough will rise quicker than usual (see Note). Punch down, cut in half, and shape into 2 rounds. Cover and allow to rest for about 10 minutes.
SHAPING Knead each piece lightly, then shape each into a tight ball by pulling the sides underneath and turning the dough as you work. Place on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet, cover, and allow to rise until doubled in size. Brush with the egg wash and allow to dry, then brush with the egg wash a second time to ensure a high shine when baked.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the loaves emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips. (See Baker’s Secret on this page.)
If using an oven stone or tiles, bake the loaves directly on them for the last 5 to 10 minutes for a better crust.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE When salt is omitted completely, the dough will rise very quickly. Allow it to rise only until it becomes puffy (15 to 20 minutes). Shape and proof, covered, without letting it rest. The bread will proof quicker than usual. Bake immediately.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the above recipe, instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the honey, oil, milk powder, egg whites, 2 cups of the flour, the salt, coriander, and cardamom. Add the ice water while running the machine. Add 3 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time, and pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Pulse for 45 to 60 seconds. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Sprinkle the raisins on top and knead them in. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
6 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup skim milk powder
3 egg whites, or 6 tablespoons egg substitute
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt (optional, see Note above)
Generous ¼ teaspoon ground coriander
Generous ⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cup ice water
1½ cups raisins
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
1 egg white, lightly beaten, for egg wash
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the honey, oil, milk powder, egg whites, 7½ cups of the flour, the salt, coriander, and cardamom. Add the ice water while pulsing with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the dough. If the motor becomes excessively strained, use first speed.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead in the raisins by hand. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Irish Raisin Bread
This bread seemed to evolve in my bakery, adapting itself to the desire for a more typical type of raisin bread but one that retained some of its ethnic origins. This is a sweet bread that goes well with many foods and is much richer than the baking soda–leavened variety. It is generally baked in a round shape with an egg-wash glaze. This bread, which keeps well and slices easily, goes well at breakfast or teatime. Try it with cheese, as an accompaniment to a salad entrée, or with the main course.
1 cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, at room temperature
3 tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
1 egg, lightly beaten
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Pinch of ground cardamom (optional)
1 cup raisins
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, butter, milk powder, egg, 5 cups of the flour, the salt, and the cardamom. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic (about 8 minutes), adding flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. The finished dough should push back when pressed down. Add the raisins and gently knead them into the dough.
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a towel and set aside until doubled in volume. Punch down, cut in half, and shape into balls. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Knead each round lightly, then shape each into a tight ball. Place on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet, cover, and allow to rise until doubled in size. Brush with the egg wash and allow to dry for several minutes, then brush with the egg wash a second time to ensure a high shine when baked.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake until the loaves emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes).
If baking on an oven stone or tiles, bake the loaves directly on them for the last 5 to 10 minutes.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
BAKER’S SECRET
If the top browns too quickly, cover with a tented sheet of aluminum foil or parchment paper.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, the butter and eggs can be chilled. Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, sugar, butter, milk powder, egg, 2 cups of the flour, the salt, and the cardamom. Pulse until the ingredients are incorporated. Add 3 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. Add more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not allow the dough to overheat.
Turn out onto a floured surface, sprinkle the raisins on top and knead them in. Extra kneading may be necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
¾ cup ice water
¾ cup plus 1½ tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
4½ tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
1½ eggs, lightly beaten
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)
1½ cups raisins
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, sugar, butter, milk powder, eggs, 7½ cups of the flour, the salt, and the cardamom. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time as necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. If the motor becomes excessively strained, use first speed.
Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead in the raisins by hand. Cover and proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Italian Bread
On a visit to Rome I once walked into a local bread bakery where I gained admission into the kitchen. Speaking no Italian but using sign language and a few words, I conversed with the bakers, who spoke no English. I was able to establish that I was a baker. We had an extended, though wordless, conversation about their breads and managed to understand one another. We molded up some breads by hand to demonstrate our skill to one another. When I was ready to leave, they insisted that I take with me an assortment of breads and rolls so that I might enjoy the products of their labor.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups bread flour
Dough
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons shortening or vegetable oil, at room temperature
2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
¼ cup sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional)
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and add the sugar, shortening, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
It should push back when pressed and your hand should come away clean.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Punch down, cut in half, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow to rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Form into Italian-shaped loaves (see this page) and place the loaves on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal. Brush with water and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). When the bread has fully proofed, cut 3 diagonal slashes or 1 long slash down the center.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (25 to 30 minutes). For the last 5 minutes of baking, remove from the pans and place on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. The bread is done when it emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips and the sides feel hard and crisp.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE Instead of the 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water and the flour and pulse until smooth. Keep the processor’s cover in place and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to punch down the sponge, then add the sugar, shortening, 2 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough begins to form up into a ball. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
4½ tablespoons sugar
4½ tablespoons shortening or vegetable oil
3 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
½ cup sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional)
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the sugar, shortening, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 5 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Focaccia
Focaccia is an Italian flat bread that enjoys wide popularity. It is the forerunner of pizza as we know it and is still enjoyed all over the world. Served plain, slathered with olive oil and coarse salt, or with simple toppings, these breads make marvelous snacks and go well with most meals. Oil, salt, and rosemary are my favorite toppings. Focaccia can be slit open and filled, sandwich-style, and served either warm or cold. Try it with a melted cheese filling. Foccacia can be made in either a round pizza pan or a rectangular sheet pan.
1 medium potato or 2 small potatoes (about 7 ounces)
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 to 5 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Coarse salt, sliced onions, minced garlic, rosemary, sage, or tomato paste, for topping (optional)
Peel and quarter the potato and place in a small pan with at least 1½ cups water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook until firm but can be pierced with the point of a knife. Set aside to cool, reserving 1 cup of the potato water. Rice the potatoes with a food mill or other grinder.
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the reserved potato water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the egg, all-purpose flour, 4 cups of the bread flour, and the salt; mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside. Allow to rise until the dough doubles in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Punch down and shape the dough into a loaf. Cover, and let rest for 15 minutes. The dough may be divided in half for 2 smaller breads.
SHAPING Prepare a greased baking sheet. Roll out and stretch the dough, letting it rest when it becomes resistant, then continue until it is large enough to cover the pan. Cover and allow to proof until puffed up. Dimple the tops with your fingertips and brush with water. Sprinkle carefully with additional toppings if desired.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the bread has browned top and bottom (35 to 40 minutes). Let cool on wire racks. May be served either warm or cold. Try cutting a sandwich-size rectangle and toast lightly in a toaster oven before serving.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small focaccia.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 1 cup warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups potato water (add water if necessary to make 1½ cups)
Prepare the potato as above. In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the potato water, the egg, all-purpose flour, 1 cup of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 3 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oiled bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (about 30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 focaccia.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 small potatoes or 2 medium potatoes (about 10 ounces)
1 cup warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ eggs, lightly beaten
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
5½ to 7½ cups bread flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Coarse salt, sliced onions, minced garlic, rosemary, sage, or tomato paste, for topping (optional)
Peel and quarter the potatoes and place in a small pan with at least 2½ cups of water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook until firm but can be pierced with the point of a knife. Set aside to cool, reserving 2 cups of the potato water. Rice the potatoes in a food mill or other grinder.
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the eggs, all-purpose flour, 5½ cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten.
Remove the hook, add oil to the bowl, and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Punch down the dough, then allow to rise, covered, until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 focaccia.
YIELD Makes 3 (10 by 14-inch) or 1 (10 by 14-inch) plus 1 (12 by 18-inch) focaccia.
NOTE For 2 breads, use the 2 bread recipe above.
Pizza
In my lifetime I’ve seen pizza and bagels become universal standards, adopted and loved by all. (They have gone far beyond their ethnic origins.) However, one pizza stands out in my memory. As a youth I patronized a restaurant on the east side of midtown Manhattan that served the most outstanding pizza in New York. It was baked in an old coal-fired tile oven with tremendous heat. The crust was thin and crisp, the hot olive oil burned the roof of your mouth, and the cheese seemed capable of stretching all the way out the front door. Although the restaurant has been gone for many years, the memory lingers on. This pizza dough is nondairy, so for a nondairy pizza, skip the cheese topping.
2 cups warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for topping
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 to 5 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons salt
Pizza sauce
Toppings of your choice
Mozzarella or other Italian cheese, to taste (optional)
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the all-purpose flour, 4 cups of the bread flour, and the salt; mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. This dough should be softer than usual so that it can easily be stretched. Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but keeping the dough somewhat soft. Knead for 10 to 15 minutes. You want to develop the gluten to be as strong as possible.
Transfer the dough to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn top to bottom until coated. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough and cut into thirds. Shape into rounds, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes. At this point the dough can be frozen or refrigerated for later use.
SHAPING Roll out the dough and stretch each portion into a 14-inch round on a greased pizza pan or baking sheet.
TOPPING Spread the sauce to within ½ inch of the edges. Arrange the toppings and drizzle with olive oil. The way I do it is to spiral a ladleful or more of pizza sauce on the dough and spread it with the bottom of the ladle. Then I add salt, pepper, and oregano, then spiral olive oil over the top from a spouted oil can. Allow to rest for a few minutes before baking. Since the heat of a pizza oven cannot be duplicated in the home kitchen, wait until the pie is half baked before adding any cheese.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 500°F to 550°F. Bake until the edges begin to brown, then remove the pizza from the oven. Add the cheese and additional olive oil. When using a pizza stone or oven tiles, you can slide the pizza off the pan and onto a wooden peel at this point if you like. Return the pizza to the oven and bake until the cheese is bubbly and the edges are crisp. You might try turning the broiler on for 1 or 2 minutes to melt the cheese. If you are lucky, the edges may become slightly charred. Carefully lift an edge and check that the bottom is baked. The overall baking time should be 20 to 35 minutes, depending upon the thickness of the crust.
YIELD Makes 3 pizzas.
Variation
Pizza Torte
These pies are decorative at the dinner table or buffet and lend a party air to special occasions. A fluted 8- to 10-inch tart pan 1 inch deep is necessary. A French tart pan with a removable bottom is the easiest to use. Roll out rounds of pizza dough to about ⅛ to ¼ inch thick and 1 inch wider than the pan. Gently transfer the dough to the greased pan. Trim the excess by rolling a stick across the top of the pan. Proceed with Topping and Baking, as above. Several of these can be made and baked in advance, then rewarmed before serving. They are also good served cold.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, 2 tablespoons olive oil, all-purpose flour, 1 cup of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 3 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. A dough thermometer should read 78°F to 82°F. You may need to process longer to reach this temperature. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. This dough should be softer than usual to allow stretching.
Turn out into a clean, oil-coated bowl, and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping, Topping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 3 pizzas.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1 cup warm water
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
2 cups ice water
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for topping
1½ cups all-purpose flour
6 to 7½ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Pizza sauce
Toppings of your choice
Mozzarella or other Italian cheese, to taste (optional)
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, 3 tablespoons olive oil, all-purpose flour, 6 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Keep in mind that this is a soft dough.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten.
Remove the hook, add oil to the bowl, and turn the dough top to bottom to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping, Topping, and Baking, above, except shape into 4 or 5 pizzas.
YIELD Makes 4 thick or 5 thin pizzas.
Semolina Bread
Semolina, a rich golden durum wheat flour employed in making pasta of the highest quality, is used by Italian bakers to enrich both the flavor and the texture of their breads. Many of my friends travel great distances to the old ethnic neighborhoods to purchase semolina bread freshly baked in the old coal-burning ovens that were used when our parents were young. Here is my adaptation of this bread formulated for the home baker. Semolina flour is available in some Italian bakeries, natural foods stores, and gourmet and fresh pasta shops.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups semolina flour
Dough
3 tablespoons sugar or malt syrup
3 tablespoons shortening or olive oil
2 to 3 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional)
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and let stand in a warm spot until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge, then add the sugar, shortening, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Continue kneading vigorously until the dough feels smooth and elastic (10 to 12 minutes). The dough should push back when pressed down.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Punch down, cut in half, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow to rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Form into 2 Italian-shaped loaves (see this page) about 18 inches long. Place the loaves on a baking sheet that has been dusted with cornmeal.
Cover with a cloth and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Brush the tops with water and sprinkle with sesame seeds. When the bread has proofed, cut 3 diagonal slashes with a sharp knife or razor blade. Hold the knife at an angle to the bread and try to cut inside and underneath the crust. This will cause the bread to break open, or bloom, while baking and form a thick, crunchy crust.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). If baking on an oven stone or tiles, the bread can be removed from the baking pans for the last 10 minutes to firm up the crust.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1¾ cups ice water
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water and flour; pulse until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to punch down the sponge, then add the sugar, shortening, 2 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process to a dough temperature of 78°F to 82°F (about 2 minutes). Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to double in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups semolina flour
Dough
4½ tablespoons sugar or malt syrup
4½ tablespoons shortening or olive oil
3 to 4½ cups bread flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional)
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix at second speed until smooth. Cover and let stand until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the sugar, shortening, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (10 to 12 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (35 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Lavash
This Middle Eastern bread, also known as Armenian bread, Lebanese bread, and the lavash of Georgian Russia, is a large flat bread either cracker crisp or soft. Try it both ways; it is equally good depending on how it is to be used. The Georgian lavash is thick and breadlike.
1½ cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons olive oil or shortening
3½ to 4½ cups bread flour
1½ teaspoons salt
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the oil, 3½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. The dough should be stiff, although it will soften somewhat during kneading. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). The finished dough should push back when pressed down.
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and set aside until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Punch down and divide into 10 equal pieces. Shape into rounds and roll into tight balls. Coat with oil, cover, and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING On a clean, floured work surface, roll out each ball into a circle 10 to 12 inches or more across and as thin as possible, turning over or letting the dough rest if it resists. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 500°F. Oven tiles or a baking stone works best. If neither is available, place 2 baking pans upside down on the middle shelf of the oven and let them preheat for at least 5 minutes. Drape each lavash over a rolling pin (stick type) or dowel and roll the dough off into the oven. Prick any large bubbles that form during baking with a long skewer or fork. Bake until flecked all over with brown spots (15 to 20 minutes). Remove the lavash with a long-handled spatula. For a crisp, cracker-type bread, allow them to cool singly. If soft lavash is desired, stack them one on top of another between 2 towels and cover. When all are baked, sprinkle each with a little water, fold into quarters, and keep covered until cool.
Lavash can be eaten warm or left to cool in the toweling, then placed in plastic bags. Refrigerate or freeze in plastic bags.
YIELD Makes 10 lavash.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, instead of 1½ cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1¼ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, oil, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse to combine. Add 1½ more cups flour, ¾ cup at a time. Process until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time, as required. This dough should be a little stiff. Pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand may be necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 10 lavash.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
For a lower yield, use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. For this recipe, the smaller quantities will work fine in a stand mixer.
2¼ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 tablespoons olive oil or shortening
5¼ to 6¾ cups bread flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the oil, 5¼ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if required.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed, adding more flour in small amounts as necessary. Although the dough should start out stiffer than usual, it will soften somewhat during mixing. The finished dough should be smooth and elastic. Tend to the mixer bowl at all times lest it jump off the saddle or cause the machine to walk. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 15 lavash.
YIELD Makes 15 lavash.
London Bloomers
British foods sometimes have extraordinary names, such as singing hinnies (a type of scone or biscuit), bangers and mash (fried breakfast meat and mashed potatoes), bubble and squeak (mashed potatoes with greens mixed in, fried into inch-thick pancakes), or toad-in-the-hole (Yorkshire pudding with little franks or wurst baked inside). So an English bread called London Bloomers is not that unusual.
My friend Bob Schild worked in bakeries in London for several years. He became proficient at baking British breads and cakes and was also a connoisseur of fiery Indian food. This recipe is adapted from his formula. As he tells it, the bread is distinguished by thirteen diagonal slashes across the top. It seems that London master bakers have been known to become violent if an employee didn’t make exactly thirteen cuts!
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 cup cake flour
4 to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
2 tablespoons poppy seeds, for sprinkling
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the milk powder, cake flour, 4 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until the dough doubles in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough, cut in half, and shape into rounds. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans and proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free area until doubled in volume. Brush with water or a cornstarch solution, then sprinkle with the poppy seeds. Cut 13 diagonal slashes across the width of the loaves.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). Brush the bread again after removing it from the oven. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, milk powder, cake flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 3 more cups all-purpose flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes together and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1 cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2 cups ice water
1 cup skim milk powder (optional)
1½ cups cake flour
6 to 7½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
3 tablespoons poppy seeds, for sprinkling
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, milk powder, cake flour, 6 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to develop the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Millet Rye Bread
Healthful and nourishing, millet is an age-old grain and one of the first to be cultivated. As used here, toasted and mixed with rye flour, it makes for a new and exotic flavor. Millet is a staple in the diet of many African peoples.
Sponge
1 cup boiling water
1 cup hulled millet, toasted (see Note)
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 cup rye flour
Dough
1 cup warm water
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons shortening
1½ cups rye flour
2½ to 3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
SPONGE In a large bowl, pour the boiling water over the millet. Let cool until lukewarm. Add the yeast and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to stand until tripled in volume and beginning to fall back (about 1 hour). The time will vary with room and dough temperature.
DOUGH Stir down the sponge, then add the water, honey, shortening, rye flour, 2½ cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Cut the dough in half, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow to rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 long pan-shaped loaves (see this page). Place on a flour-dusted baking pan or into 2 greased and floured 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). When the bread has fully proofed, slash with 6 to 8 deep diagonal cuts. Brush the tops with water or cornstarch solution.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (35 to 45 minutes). For the last 5 minutes of baking, remove from the pans and place on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. The bread is done when it emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTES Hulled millet can be found in natural foods stores, Indian groceries, and some ethnic markets. Do not buy it in pet shops, since it will be unhulled and may have been treated with unsafe chemicals. Toast millet on the stovetop in a dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat, stirring or shaking until toasted and popping (about 5 minutes).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In the work bowl, pour the boiling water over the millet. Let cool until lukewarm. Add the yeast and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to stand until tripled in volume and beginning to fall back (about 1 hour). The time will vary with room and dough temperature.
DOUGH Punch down the sponge, then add the honey, shortening, rye flour, 2½ cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. While pulsing the machine, add 1 cup warm water, mixing until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
1½ cups boiling water
1½ cups hulled millet, toasted (see Note above)
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups rye flour
Dough
½ cup warm water
1 cup ice water
1½ tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons shortening
2¼ cups rye flour
3¾ to 5¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, pour the boiling water over the millet. Let cool until lukewarm. Add the yeast and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to stand until tripled in volume and beginning to fall back (about 1 hour). The time will vary with room and dough temperature.
DOUGH Stir down the sponge, then add the warm and ice waters, honey, shortening, rye flour, 3¾ cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Knead until the dough feels soft and silky (8 to 10 minutes)
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Millet Rye Bread, Country Style
Millet has an interesting flavor and is high in vitamins and minerals. You will receive many compliments when you serve this with meat or poultry to sop up extra sauce. It also works well for hot open-faced sandwiches. Prepare the sponge 4 to 6 hours in advance or preferably overnight.
Sponge
1¾ cups boiling water
1 cup hulled millet, toasted (see Note)
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
2 cups rye flour
Dough
¼ cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
3 to 4 cups first clear flour (preferred) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting baking sheet
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
Sesame seeds, for sprinkling
SPONGE In a large bowl, pour the boiling water over the toasted millet. Let cool until lukewarm. Add the yeast and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to stand at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours or preferably overnight.
DOUGH In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the sponge, 3 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough is soft and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Punch the dough down, cut in half, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow to rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape the dough into 2 rounds or loaves and place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or rye flour. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Brush with water, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and cut 3 diagonal slashes in each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (25 to 30 minutes). For the last 5 minutes of baking, remove from the pans and place on an oven stone or tiles if you have them. The bread is done when it emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips and the sides feel hard and crisp.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTES Hulled millet can be found in natural foods stores, Indian groceries, and some ethnic markets. Do not buy it in pet shops, since it will be unhulled and may have been treated with unsafe chemicals. Toast millet on the stovetop in a dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat, stirring and shaking until popping and barely browned (about 5 minutes).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE Prepare the sponge as above. Cover and allow to stand at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours or preferably overnight.
DOUGH In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sponge, 3 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
2¾ cups boiling water
1½ cups hulled millet, toasted (see Note above)
¾ package active dry yeast (2 teaspoons)
3 cups rye flour
Dough
6 tablespoons warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
5 to 6 cups first clear flour (preferred) or
unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting baking sheet
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
Sesame seeds, for sprinkling
SPONGE In a large bowl, pour the boiling water over the toasted millet. Let cool until lukewarm. Add the yeast and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to stand at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours or preferably overnight.
DOUGH In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the sponge and pulse a few times with the on/off switch. Add 5 cups of the flour and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook.
Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). Add additional flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Murray’s Kashi Bread
The excellent cereal Kashi contains seven grains plus sesame seeds. My friend Murray Pudalov discovered this puffed-grain cold cereal in his local market and enjoyed it with milk and fruit for breakfast. One day when I was visiting, I found that he was being joshed by his entire family for an incident involving his breakfast cereal. It seems that there are two kinds of Kashi. One is the puffed grain, and the other is a dry grain that is cooked into a hot cereal. Unknowingly, my friend purchased the dry grain, poured it into his breakfast bowl, added milk, and attempted to eat it. “Not to worry,” I told him. “Give me the cereal and I will make a bread with it.” A few days later I presented him with three loaves of Murray’s Kashi Bread.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
3 tablespoons honey or sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
⅔ cup skim milk powder
2 cups cooked Kashi GoLean Hot Cereal
1 cup rye flour
2 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
½ to 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Add the honey, oil, milk powder, cooked Kashi, rye flour, whole wheat flour, ½ cup of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time as necessary. Knead until smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). Cut the dough in half, shape into rounds, cover with a damp towel, and let rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into pan loaves (see this page) and place, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Allow to rise, covered, until doubled in size (about 45 minutes). Brush with water and slash once down the length of the loaves. Place on a baking sheet.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) on the middle shelf until the loaves are golden and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). The top and sides should be firm, not soft. Remove from the pans for the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking to improve the crust.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Sponge
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons honey
1½ tablespoons vegetable oil
⅓ cup skim milk powder
1 cup cooked Kashi GoLean Hot Cereal
½ cup rye flour
1 cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
¼ to ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and process until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to punch down the sponge, then add the honey, oil, milk powder, cooked Kashi, rye flour, whole wheat flour, ¼ cup of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 1 minute. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out onto a floured work surface. Shape into a round, cover with a damp towel, and let rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into a pan loaf (see this page) and place, seam down, in a greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pan; for smaller loaves, shape into rounds. Allow to rise, covered, until doubled in size (about 45 minutes). Brush with water and slash once down the length of the loaf. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
4½ tablespoons honey or sugar
4½ tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup skim milk powder
3 cups cooked Kashi GoLean Hot Cereal
1½ cups rye flour
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably
stone-ground
¾ to 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the honey, oil, milk powder, cooked Kashi, rye flour, whole wheat flour, ¾ cup of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too moist or soft, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Turn out onto a floured surface, cut into 3 pieces, shape into rounds, and cover. Allow the dough to rest for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into pan loaves (see this page) and place, seam down, in 3 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Allow to rise, covered, until doubled in size (about 45 minutes). Brush with water and slash once down the length of the loaves. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Naan
Naan, a kissing cousin to Mideastern pita or lavash, is a chewy, blistered bread baked in a tandoor, a vertical clay oven commonly used in northern India. This recipe uses yeast as the leavening agent, as opposed to Sourdough Naan (this page), which uses baking powder and baking soda.
Tandoori baking is a fine art that must be learned over many years. Skill is a necessity, as oven temperatures exceed 700°F. The tandoori chef rolls and stretches the bread on the back of the hand and slaps it against the side of the clay tandoor, where it firmly adheres while swelling up and baking. Although the fierce heat of the tandoor cannot be duplicated in the home kitchen, naan can be baked at home. Naan is best when freshly baked and served warm, although it freezes well and can be reheated.
½ cup warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
1 cup plain low-fat or nonfat yogurt or water (see Note)
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 to 4½ cups bread flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the yogurt, oil, 4 cups of the flour, and the salt; mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead. You may add more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky, but bear in mind that this dough should be soft. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). The finished dough should push back when pressed down.
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and set aside for 30 minutes. Gently press all the air out of the dough and allow to rise once more until doubled in volume (20 to 30 minutes). Punch down, roll out into a rope, and divide into 12 pieces. Shape into rounds with your palms by cupping them over the dough. Coat the rounds with oil, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING On a clean, oiled work surface, flatten the first round with your palms. Roll out or press into a 6-inch circle, turning at least once to coat with oil. Use your fingertips to press a series of indentations all over the bread.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 550°F. A baking stone or oven tiles work best. Otherwise, place 2 baking pans upside down on the middle shelf of the oven and let them preheat for at least 5 minutes. Cook 1 or 2 naan at a time. Drape each over the palm of your hand and flip it over onto the hot tiles. Use caution not to burn your hands. Bake for about 1 minute. With a long barbecue fork or skewer, pierce any extra-large bubbles that appear. Immediately turn on the broiler. With the door closed, continue baking until the tops of the naan begin to brown (1 to 1½ minutes). Switch the oven back to the bake setting. Remove the naan immediately with a long-handled spatula and cover by placing in the folds of a clean towel. Continue baking 1 or 2 naan at a time, stacking them 5 high in the towel and keeping them covered. Naan is best when served warm. If desired, let cool in the towel and freeze or refrigerate in plastic bags.
YIELD Makes 12 naan.
NOTE In place of yogurt, you can substitute water (for nondairy), milk, skim milk, or sour cream.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Before starting, make sure that the yogurt is cold.
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the cold yogurt, oil, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse to combine. Add 2 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. You may add more flour if the dough is too sticky, but bear in mind that this dough should be soft. Pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand may be necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 12 naan.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
For half the yield, use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. Those smaller quantities will work fine in the stand mixer.
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
½ cup warm water
2½ cups plain low-fat or nonfat yogurt (see Note above)
¼ cup olive oil
8 to 9 cups bread flour
3½ teaspoons salt
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the yogurt, oil, 8 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary, but bear in mind that this dough should be soft. The finished dough should be smooth and elastic. You can mix at second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. If the motor strains excessively, stop and use first speed. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except divide the dough into 24 pieces.
YIELD Makes 24 naan.
Nine-Grain Bread
In my bakery we made a seven-grain bread, which was very popular. When I sought to duplicate this bread for the home and was looking for a source of readily available grains, I found a seven-grain cereal in many natural foods stores that proved to be economical and quite tasty. The bread I made from it has sesame seeds added and is rolled in oatmeal flakes before baking; voilà, nine-grain bread!
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 tablespoons honey or sugar
2 tablespoons shortening or vegetable oil, at room temperature
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 cup cooked seven-grain cereal, at room temperature (see Note)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2½ to 3½ cups stone-ground whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon salt
¼ cup sesame seeds
1 cup rolled oats, for topping
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the honey, shortening, milk powder, cooked cereal, all-purpose flour, 2½ cups of the whole wheat flour, the salt, and the sesame seeds. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead, adding more whole wheat flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer the dough to a clean, oil-coated bowl and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Punch down the dough and cut it in half. Shape into rounds, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page), brush with water, and roll in rolled oats to coat. Place the breads, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, until the loaves form nicely rounded tops and rise to the top of the pans or slightly above. Place the breads on a baking sheet. Slash each loaf once lengthwise down the center with a sharp knife or razor blade.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are browned and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE Cook the cereal in boiling water until softened. Use ⅓ cup cereal to 1 cup water (½ cup cereal to 1½ cups water in the stand mixer recipe).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, honey, shortening, milk powder, cooked cereal, 2½ cups of the whole wheat flour, the salt, and the sesame seeds. Mix until the flour is incorporated. Add 2 cups of the all-purpose flour and blend, then add the remaining 1 cup all-purpose flour. More whole wheat flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oil-coated bowl, and turn top to bottom to coat. Cover and let stand until the dough doubles in volume (40 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
3 tablespoons honey or sugar
3 tablespoons shortening or vegetable oil, at room temperature
1 cup skim milk powder (optional)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
4 to 5 cups stone-ground whole wheat flour
1½ cups cooked seven-grain cereal, at room temperature (see Note above)
6 tablespoons sesame seeds
4½ teaspoons salt
1½ cups rolled oats, for topping
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the honey, shortening, milk powder, all-purpose flour, 4 cups of the whole wheat flour, the cooked cereal, the sesame seeds, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More whole wheat flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Remove the hook, add oil to the bowl, and turn the dough top to bottom until coated. Cover and allow to double in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Oat Rye Bread, Country Style
At a renowned Boston restaurant, I once tasted an exceptionally good bread that inspired the development of this crusty whole-grain loaf. For a nondairy loaf, use shortening or half shortening and half vegetable oil instead of the butter.
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
3 tablespoons honey or sugar
1 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup rye flour
2 cups rolled oats (not instant)
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting pan
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH In another large bowl, combine the honey, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, rye flour, oats, and the salt. Cut or rub in the butter or shortening. Add the sponge and mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time as necessary. Knead until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes). Cover with a damp towel and let stand for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Punch down the dough, then shape into a tight round loaf to make 1 large loaf or cut in half and shape into 2 regular-size round loaves. Proof, covered, on a baking pan dusted with cornmeal or rye flour until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes). Brush lightly with water or the cornstarch solution. Stipple (punch holes) in the tops of the loaves.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 380°F. Bake with steam (see this page) on the middle shelf of the oven. When the top first begins to brown, after 15 to 20 minutes, brush once more with water or the cornstarch solution to ensure a shiny crust. Bake until the bread is golden and emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (45 to 60 minutes). A single large loaf will require more baking time (10 to 15 minutes longer). The top and sides should not be soft. Remove from the oven, brush again, and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 regular-size loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and process until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge. Add the honey, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, the rye flour, oats, salt, and the butter. Pulse until the ingredients are incorporated and the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Mix for about 1 minute. Do not allow the dough to overheat. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 regular-size loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
4½ tablespoons honey or sugar
4½ tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
1½ cups rye flour
3 cups rolled oats (not instant)
2½ to 3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting pans
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the honey, butter, rye flour, oats, 2½ cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 2 large or 4 small loaves.
YIELD Makes 2 large loaves or 4 small loaves.
Whole Wheat Oatmeal Bread
This bread is best when baked in a loaf pan and sliced for sandwiches or toasted. Oatmeal adds a distinct rough texture and nutty flavor and keeps the bread moist. The salt can be omitted or a salt substitute can be used (see Note).
Sponge
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
¼ cup honey or sugar
¼ cup vegetable oil
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups rolled oats (not instant)
2 teaspoons salt
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flours and stir until smooth. Cover and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge and add the honey, oil, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, the rolled oats, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface and knead, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time as necessary. Knead until smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes). Cut the dough in half and shape into 2 balls. Cover with a damp towel and let stand for 10 to 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place the loaves, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Allow to rise until doubled in size, or until the tops are nicely rounded and the breads have risen slightly above the top of the pans (30 to 45 minutes). Brush with water and slash once down the length of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 380°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are golden and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (45 to 60 minutes). The top and sides should not be soft. Remove from the pans for the last 10 minutes of baking time to develop a better crust. Remove from the oven, brush again with water, and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE If the salt is omitted, the final rise will take place quite rapidly. Do not allow the loaves to over-proof.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In place of 2 cups of warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water and the flours and pulse until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in size (about 30 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge, then add the honey, oil, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, the rolled oats, and the salt. Pulse until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated and the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. Process for about 60 seconds. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
1 cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2 cups ice water
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
6 tablespoons honey or sugar
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup skim milk powder (optional)
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1½ to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3 cups rolled oats (not instant)
1 tablespoon salt
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water and flours and mix at first speed until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the honey, oil, milk powder, whole wheat flour, 1½ cups of the all-purpose flour, the oats, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Pita
Also known as pocket bread, pita has become universal in use. A soft, chewy bread, it opens up to form a pocket that can be conveniently stuffed with all kinds of sandwich fillings. Its origin is in the Middle East, where small pieces of pita are torn off and used in place of utensils to scoop up bits of food or dips. Vegetarians and health food proponents have adopted these breads as their own and bake them with whole wheat flour for additional flavor and nutritive value. For an all-white pita, you can substitute unbleached all-purpose flour for the whole wheat flour called for in this recipe.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
¼ cup olive oil or shortening
2 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
3 to 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting pan
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the oil, whole wheat flour, 3 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead. You may add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky, but bear in mind that this dough should be soft. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). The finished dough should push back when pressed down.
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and set aside until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Punch down and divide into 12 equal pieces, then shape into balls. Cover and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING On a clean, floured work surface, press or roll out the rounds into 6-inch circles. Cover and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 500°F. Oven tiles or a baking stone works best. If neither is available, place 2 baking pans upside down on the middle shelf of the oven and let them preheat for at least 5 minutes. Slide the pita into the oven 1 or 2 at a time using a board or peel. An alternate method would be to place them on cornmeal-sprinkled baking sheets. Do not open the oven door for the first 10 minutes so that the breads can puff up. Bake until they are lightly browned. Remove the bread with a long-handled spatula and keep covered by placing between 2 towels. Continue baking 1 or 2 at a time, stacking the finished breads 6 high in the towels. The breads will collapse as they cool. Pita can be eaten warm, or let them cool in the towels, then refrigerate or freeze in plastic bags.
YIELD Makes 12 pitas.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, oil, whole wheat flour, and salt. Pulse to combine. Add 3 cups of the all-purpose flour, 1 cup at a time. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. You may add more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if needed, but bear in mind that this dough should be soft. Pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Extra kneading by hand may be necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 12 pitas.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
For a lower yield, use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. For this recipe, the smaller quantities will work fine in a stand mixer.
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
6 tablespoons olive oil or shortening
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
4½ to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the oil, whole wheat flour, 4½ cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary, but bear in mind that this dough should be soft. The finished dough should be smooth and elastic. You can mix at second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. If the motor strains excessively, stop and use first speed. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 18 pitas.
YIELD Makes 18 pitas.
Soft Pretzels
This recipe is for old-fashioned German or Pennsylvania Amish–style soft pretzels. They are wonderful when sprinkled with coarse salt and (my favorite) topped with smear of mustard. Some folks dip them in sesame seeds, others knead in grated Parmesan cheese. For a very different flavor, sprinkle with cumin seeds before baking. Merely follow along, one step at a time, and success will be assured. You will find yourself preparing double batches to satisfy all of the hungry children.
This dough is fairly stiff, so it’s difficult to prepare by hand. In addition to your usual baking supplies, you’ll need a 4-quart pot for dipping the pretzels and a skimmer or slotted spoon.
1¼ cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons molasses
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons baking soda
2 quarts water
Pretzel salt, for topping (see Note)
4 tablespoons butter, melted, or ¼ cup vegetable oil
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the water and allow it to soften. Add the flours, brown sugar, molasses, 1 tablespoon of the oil, and the salt and mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead only until the dough becomes smooth. The dough should be softer than the usual bread dough.
RISING Place the dough in a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and set aside until doubled in volume (about 30 minutes). Alternatively, cover and allow the dough to rise in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Allow to come to room temperature before using.
SHAPING It is not necessary to punch down the dough. Cut the dough into 3 equal pieces (I use a scale so the pieces will all be of equal weight), then cut each piece into thirds. Roll out in ropes about 28 inches long and about ¼ inch wide. If the dough resists rolling, set it aside and roll out the rest of the pieces. Then, starting with the first resistant rope, roll out into the required length. To form the pretzel shape, bring the ends around into a horseshoe shape. Overlap the ends and twist once, then bring the ends up to form a pretzel shape. Press the ends down hard to adhere to the top of the pretzel. Lightly oil or grease a baking sheet. Place 3 to 6 pretzels on a sheet, evenly spaced, leaving room for them to rise. Set aside, covered, until doubled in size, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the baking soda and water in a large pot and heat until very hot but not boiling.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, shiny side down.
Remove the baking soda water from the heat. Carefully drop one pretzel at a time into the heated water, turn once, remove using a slotted spoon or a skimmer, and place right side up on the baking sheet. Sprinkle with the pretzel salt. Repeat with the rest of the pretzels.
Bake the pretzels, turning once after the first 3 to 4 minutes, for a total of 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Let cool slightly on the baking sheet. Meanwhile, combine the butter and the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil in a shallow bowl. Dip each pretzel into the glaze on both sides, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
YIELD Makes 8 to 9 pretzels.
NOTE Pretzel salt is much better in this application. The granules are larger, do not melt during baking, and are more toothsome to the bite. Look for pretzel salt in Amish markets and some ethnic markets. Or ask a local bagel baker to sell you some.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1¼ cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1 cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the water and allow it to soften. Add the ice water, flours, brown sugar, molasses, 1 tablespoon of the oil, and the salt and pulse until all of the ingredients are combined. Process until the dough forms up into a ball and spins around the sides. Remove and knead lightly by hand for a few minutes. The dough should be softer than the usual bread dough. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Use the hand mixing recipe above. The recipe may be doubled. In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the water and allow it to soften. Add the flours, brown sugar, molasses, 1 tablespoon of the oil, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out onto a flour-dusted work surface. Knead only until the dough becomes smooth. The dough should be softer than the usual bread dough. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 12 pretzels.
YIELD Makes 6 large pretzels.
Psomi
This is my version of a bread I first tried in a small bakery in New Hampshire. It’s sort of a kissing cousin to New England’s anadama bread. (Psomi, pronounced sew-me, is a Greek word meaning “bread.”)
Sponge
½ cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1½ cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page), at room temperature
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons butter or shortening, softened
2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
½ cup toasted sesame seeds (see this page)
Additional sesame seeds, for topping
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour and mix until smooth. Cover with a cloth or plastic wrap and set aside until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
DOUGH Add the honey, butter, 2 cups of the flour, the salt, and the toasted sesame seeds. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Punch down the dough, cut in half, then let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page) and roll in sesame seeds. Place, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans or leave free-form on floured baking sheets. Cover and proof until the loaves double in size. Score each loaf with 3 diagonal cuts and brush with water.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. If you have an oven stone or tiles, free-form loaves may be baked directly on them. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven until the bread has color and emits a hollow sound when thumped lightly on the bottom with your fingertips (35 to 45 minutes). If baking pan loaves, remove from the pans for the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking for a crustier loaf. After removing from the oven, brush again with water and let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
SPONGE In the recipe above, instead of the ½ cup warm water and buttermilk at room temperature use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups chilled buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour and process until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge, then add the honey, butter, 2 cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), the salt, and the toasted sesame seeds. Pulse until the ingredients are incorporated, then continue pulsing until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Process or pulse until the dough reaches 78°F (about 1 minute). Do not overmix. If necessary, turn out and knead lightly by hand for several minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, remove the dough and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
¾ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2¼ cups chilled buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
4½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
6 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
3 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
¾ cup toasted sesame seeds (see this page)
Additional sesame seeds, for topping (optional)
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
DOUGH Add the honey, butter, 3 cups of the flour, the salt, and the toasted sesame seeds. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. If the motor becomes excessively strained, use first speed. Remove the dough hook, cover, and proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
100% Whole Wheat Bread
Most recipes for whole wheat bread are formulated using part whole wheat and part white flour, even though they are called whole wheat bread. Some will actually be labeled all wheat or 100% wheat bread. The following recipe uses all whole wheat flour. If you like whole-grain breads, the exceptional flavor of these loaves will appeal to you. They are made with wholesome ingredients: sweet dairy butter, unrefined sweeteners, and low-fat milk. For a cholesterol-free bread, use vegetable oil instead of butter. When using all whole wheat flour, it is important that all the flour not be added at one time. This is essential for the proper development of the dough.
Sponge
½ cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1½ cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page), at room temperature
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or vegetable oil, at room temperature
2 to 3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 teaspoons salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour. Mix with a wooden spoon until smooth. Cover with a cloth and place in a warm area until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
DOUGH Add the honey, butter, 2 cups of the flour stirred in 1 cup at a time (important), and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour in small amounts until the dough is firm. Because it is made of all whole wheat flour, the dough will tend to be heavier than usual and may remain a bit sticky. Dust lightly with flour as necessary. Knead for about 8 minutes, until the dough feels elastic and pushes back when pressed. Do not hesitate to knead for a longer time.
NOTE The dough will be heavy, will tend to tear easily, and will not rise as readily as a regular dough. This is normal. Cut in half, shape into rounds, and allow to rest, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes.
SHAPING Punch down and shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Place into 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, cover loosely, and allow to rise until the dough reaches above the rims of the pans (45 to 60 minutes). Brush with water or melted butter.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are well browned and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom with your fingertips and the sides feel firm (about 45 minutes). The loaves can be removed from the pans for the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking to firm up the crust. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Cracked 100% Whole Wheat Bread
Cracked wheat bread, made with either bulgur or cracked wheat, has a coarse texture and farm-fresh flavor. This bread is an excellent choice for sandwiches; it also toasts well and is good with butter and jam or served with cheese.
Bulgur, a precooked grain, is available in many supermarkets. Cracked wheat or cracked wheat cereal is most easily found in natural foods stores. To soften bulgur, soak in boiling water for 40 minutes, then drain. Cracked wheat must be cooked as a cereal until soft. For 1 cup cooked cracked wheat, cook ⅓ cup cereal in 1 cup water until tender. (For the stand mixer recipe, cook ½ cup cereal in 1½ cups water.) Let cool before using.
To the dough, add:
1 cup soaked bulgur or cooked cracked wheat (1½ cups in the stand mixer recipe)
Sprouted Whole Wheat Bread
This bread is fun to make. Crunchy and filled with nutrients, it tastes good, too. If desired, you can substitute almost any small sprouts, either homegrown or purchased, but try it with sprouted wheat berries for a natural, all-wheat bread. If you wish, roll the shaped loaves in ½ cup sesame seeds before placing in the baking pans (¾ cup sesame seeds in the stand mixer recipe).
To the dough, add and mix as usual:
1 cup sprouted wheat berries or any small sprouts (see this page)
2 teaspoons salt
Pinch of ground ginger
For the stand mixer, add:
1½ cups sprouted wheat berries or any small sprouts (see this page)
1 tablespoon salt
⅛ teaspoon ground ginger
Nutted Whole Wheat Cocktail Bread
This bread goes exceptionally well with a cheese tray, and can be served with cocktails or after the meal in place of dessert. When served with cream cheese and a beverage, it makes a complete meal. Increase the amount of walnuts if you like.
After kneading, flatten the dough with your palms, then sprinkle the top with:
½ cup chopped walnuts (¾ cup in the stand mixer recipe), preferably toasted (see this page)
Knead until well distributed. Cut in half, shape into rounds, and allow to rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Punch down and shape into 2 narrow pan loaves (3 loaves in the stand mixer recipe) 10 to 12 inches long (see this page).
Set on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet, cover loosely, and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Brush with egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water and a pinch of salt) and cut a series of diagonal slashes ¼ inch deep and ½ inch apart, taking care to cut from edge to edge (not just the tops). Allow the egg wash to dry for several minutes and brush a second time to ensure a shiny crust.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake until the loaves are a deep mahogany color and emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (about 45 minutes). If you have an oven stone or tiles, transfer to them after the first 25 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the above recipe, use chilled instead of room-temperature buttermilk.
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the chilled buttermilk and flour and process until smooth. Let stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge, then add the honey, butter, 2 cups of the flour stirred in 1 cup at a time (important), and the salt. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, then continue to pulse for about 1 minute to knead. Do not overmix. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately; then knead together by hand. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead together, then proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
¾ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2¼ cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page), at room temperature
4½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
6 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons butter or shortening
3 to 4½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 tablespoon salt
Water or melted butter, for brushing loaves
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
DOUGH Add the honey, butter, 3 cups of the whole wheat flour stirred in 1 cup at a time (important), and the salt. Run at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed for 8 to 10 minutes, adding more whole wheat flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky or refuses to clean the sides of the bowl and gather up around the dough hook.
BAKER’S SECRET
If after 2 to 3 minutes the dough hook does not bite into the dough but rather pushes it up along the sides of the bowl, increase to second speed until the dough comes away from the sides, then resume mixing at first speed and add several minutes to the mixing time.
Turn out onto a floured work surface, cut into 3 pieces, and proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Whole Wheat Raisin
Nut Bread
This bread can accompany any light meal and also goes well with salads or cheese and fruit. The way I like it best is thinly sliced and made into cream cheese sandwiches served with an apple and chocolate milk.
Sponge
½ cup warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1½ cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page), at room temperature
2½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening, softened
2½ to 3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup raisins
½ cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (see this page)
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge, then add the honey, butter, 2½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). The finished dough should push back when pressed down. Knead in the raisins and walnuts. Cut the dough in half, shape into rounds, cover, and allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page) and place, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Allow to rise, covered, until the breads come up over the top of the pans (about 45 minutes).
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the loaves are nicely browned and they emit a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips (40 to 45 minutes). The loaves can be removed from the pans for the last 5 minutes of baking to firm up the crust.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the above recipe, use chilled instead of room temperature buttermilk.
SPONGE In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the chilled buttermilk and flour and pulse until smooth. Allow to stand, covered, until doubled in volume (about 20 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse to stir down the sponge, then add the honey, butter, 2½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and rides up on top of the blade. Add more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Pulse until the dough is smooth and elastic (about 1 minute). If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Sprinkle with the raisins and nuts, then knead them into the dough. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Sponge
1 cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2¼ cups chilled buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
3¾ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
Dough
6 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
3¾ to 5¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
1½ cups raisins
¾ cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (see this page)
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the buttermilk and flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 40 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater, then add the honey, butter, 3¾ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). The finished dough should push back when pressed down. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, sprinkle with the raisins and nuts, and knead until thoroughly incorporated. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
CHAPTER SIX
Sourdough Breads
My father, a Hungarian baker, told me stories about cooks in Europe whose culinary ability was rated by the quality of their bread. He related that when a young woman married, included in her dowry was some sourdough starter from her mother. These starters were passed on from mother to daughter and, as master yeast is today, the culture was never allowed to die. Small quantities were always kept with which to begin anew.
When I began to work in the bakery, sour was still made by hand—three times daily, each time doubled in volume and fermented in huge wooden troughs. Someone would have to tend to the sour whenever the bakery was closed. Thanks to modern refrigeration, bakeries now make sour at their leisure and refrigerate it at any stage in its development. The first time sour is made, it is begun with a starter. After that, enough is always left behind to begin the next batch.
Rye Sour
Rye Sour is made in three stages, and this is the secret of its success, increasing its flavor and leavening power, but controlling fermentation. To ensure the proper strength of the sour, in each stage you can only double the amount of starter you begin with. For example, if beginning with ¼ cup starter, you can add up to ½ cup water plus flour to thicken. If stage one contains 1 cup sour, stage two can be prepared with up to 2 cups water plus flour. If a large amount of sour is required, extra stages can be added. Never allow the sour to become old or rancid. The following instructions will guide you not only in making rye sour but also in storing and maintaining the sour.
Caraway seeds can be ground in a coffee or spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle, or you can use a rolling pin. The crushed seeds disappear as the sour ferments, but they add a distinctive flavor to the sour. The minced onion helps to hasten the fermentation and adds flavor.
Starter
(Prepare 48 hours in advance.)
½ cup white rye flour
⅛ teaspoon active dry yeast (see Note)
1 cup warm water
1 tablespoon crushed caraway seeds (optional)
1 teaspoon minced onion
Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl and mix until smooth. The mixture should have a thin, soupy consistency. Cover and allow to stand in a warm spot until bubbly and fermented. It can be left up to 24 hours.
NOTE Save the rest of the packet for the first dough.
RYE SOUR, DEVELOPING AND FORTIFYING In making sour, use approximately ¾ to 1 cup flour to each ½ cup water. (Notice that stage one calls for a higher ratio. This is done to adjust for the initial consistency of the starter.) The object is to make a thick consistency as close as possible to that of a soft dough. It is not necessary to thicken to the point that the mixing becomes burdensome. If the mixture is too soupy, add more flour ¼ cup at a time. Mix until smooth.
BAKER’S SECRET
Rye Sour is made in three stages—the secret of its success. The flavor and leavening power are increased, but the fermentation is controlled. The sour is never allowed to become old or rancid.
Stage One (Prepare 24 hours in advance.)
½ cup water
1½ cups white rye flour
All of the starter, above
In a large bowl or container, combine the water, 1¼ cups of the flour, and the starter; stir until smooth. The dough should pull slightly and may start to come away from sides of the bowl. Wipe down the sides of the bowl with wet hands or a bowl scraper. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup flour over the entire surface of the sour. Let stand, covered with a cloth or plastic wrap, until doubled in size and the floured top appears cracked with wide fissures. This may take 4 to 8 hours. Avoid letting the sour collapse.
BAKER’S SECRET
Some bakers like to add crushed caraway seeds each time they prepare stage one.
Stage Two
If a double recipe is desired, the ingredients below can be increased to 1 cup warm water and 2 cups rye flour.
½ cup warm water
1 cup white rye flour
To the stage one sour, add the water and ¾ cup of the flour; mix until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup flour over the entire surface of the sour. Cover and let rise in a warm area for 4 to 8 hours.
As the sour begins to rise, you can refrigerate it (in the coldest spot in your refrigerator—usually the lowest shelf) at any stage for later use or overnight for mixing the following day. Refrigeration retards the rate of growth of the sour, which continues to rise slowly. Whenever time permits, I prefer to make two stages the day before, refrigerating the second stage overnight and preparing the third stage the morning of baking. If the dough is to be mixed first thing in the morning, the third stage is prepared the evening before, so it can rise slowly all night and be ready in the morning.
Stage Three
½ cup water (see Note)
1 cup white rye flour, or more as needed
Add the water and flour to the stage two sour. Mix until smooth. Additional flour can be added to attain a doughlike consistency. The sour, when fully risen in stage three, is ready for use in bread recipes.
When the third stage is mixed, set aside ¼ to ½ cup of the sour to be used as the starter for the next batch; the next time you are ready to bake with sour, proceed with stage one, above. Refrigerate in a covered nonreactive container with a light film of cold water floated over the top. I have kept sour under refrigeration for months at a time, feeding it a little flour and water every 2 to 3 days.
BAKER’S SECRET
Sour can be said to be a pre-fermented dough or base. In some recipes, such as Jewish Rye (this page), I use what I like to call the “instant dough method.” This is also used in many of my sponge recipes. Many recipes contain enough sour or sponge in the dough that it is not necessary to wait for the dough to rise. The bread is mixed, allowed to rest a few minutes to enable it to be shaped properly, and immediately shaped into loaves.
It is always better to let your dough rise slowly and naturally; however, when there is not enough time, the process can be hastened by putting the mixed sour in the microwave oven next to a cup of just-boiled water. Do not run the microwave with the starter in it; simply use the steam and heat from the boiled water to create an effective steam cabinet inside the microwave.
NOTES Use warm water if the sour has been refrigerated. It is best to stir down the starter every 3 to 4 days if unused. Periodically (every 10 to 12 days) dispose of half the sour and refresh it by mixing in equal amounts of flour and water. If there is some discoloration on the top, it is safe to skim it off and use the sour as usual. When going away for long periods of time, I freeze a small amount of sour. When preparing a new starter from scratch, I add the frozen sour to preserve my original culture.
Sometimes the process goes awry. Perhaps there is insufficient sour left to start the next batch, or the sour might have been forgotten, becoming old or dry while it was left standing. There is a remedy. Bakers call it an einfrisch, meaning “to refresh.” A small amount of sour is thinned down with water to a soupy consistency; even just swishing ¼ cup water around in what remains clinging to the sides of the bowl can yield enough to restart the sour. Let this einfrisch stand, covered, at room temperature or in a warm spot until bubbly. If desperate, add a pinch of yeast. When it’s bubbly, add enough flour to make stage one, allow to rise, and proceed with stages two and three.
Jewish Rye
This is real Jewish rye bread, developed by a Jewish baker for the most demanding audience in the world, the New York consumer. This bread transcends its ethnic boundaries due to its universal appeal. To my knowledge, an authentic version of this recipe has never been published. Bakers, like chefs, are reluctant to part with their recipes and invariably try to hold something back. Few breads offer such a distinct flavor coupled with such a unique crust.
The secret of great rye bread is the sour, or ferment, which gives the bread its outstanding qualities. Sour is the product of the controlled fermentation of rye flour and water. Once it is begun, the baker always saves a small amount of sour each time he or she bakes. This becomes the starter to begin the next batch.
Jewish Rye is made up of water, flour, yeast, and salt. There is no sugar or fat added to this pure bread. Rye bread is ideal for deli sandwiches and as an accompaniment to meat dishes. It is excellent with cheese. A favorite of mine is cream cheese and olives on rye toast. A real Jewish treat (high in cholesterol) used to be a roast beef sandwich on rye with Bermuda onion and chicken fat (shmaltz). My grandmother would take afternoon tea with toasted rye that had the crust rubbed with garlic while still warm. She lived well into her nineties and I always attributed it to the tea and garlic, but now I firmly believe that it was the rye bread.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
3 cups Rye Sour (this page; see Note)
½ cup altus (optional; see this page)
4 to 5 cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
1 tablespoon salt
½ tablespoon caraway seeds, or more to taste (optional)
Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page) or water, for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, soften the yeast in the warm water and add the sour and altus. Without stirring, add 3 cups of the first clear flour, the salt, and the caraway seeds. Gently stir the dry ingredients with your fingertips to incorporate, then stir with a wooden spoon, adding more first clear flour as necessary until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead. If the dough is moist and sticky, add more flour ¼ cup at a time, but be aware that rye dough is softer than other types and will tend to feel sticky. Knead until the dough feels soft and silky (5 to 8 minutes).
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn several times to coat. Cover and allow to rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Punch down.
SHAPING Shape the dough into 2 free-standing pan loaves (see this page). Place on a baking sheet dusted with rye flour or cornmeal, cover, and allow to rise until doubled in size. Brush with the cornstarch solution, then cut 3 horizontal slashes on the top of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). The top and sides should feel hard to the touch. Brush again with the cornstarch solution, then let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTES First clear flour, also called clear flour or common flour, can be hard to find (see this page). You can substitute 3¼ to 4¼ cups all-purpose flour plus ¾ cup cake flour, but the bread won’t taste or look as good. For a milder taste, 2 cups of rye sour can be used instead of 3 cups.
Variations
Onion Rye
Omit the caraway seeds and instead knead Onion Filling and Topping (this page) into the dough immediately after mixing. The tops of the shaped loaves should be rolled in additional onion topping before the final rise.
Marble Rye
Cut each dough in half and flatten all of the pieces with your hands or a small rolling pin. Place one pumpernickel half on top of a rye half and shape jelly-roll fashion into a short loaf. For further variety, shape the second loaf with the pumpernickel on the bottom. This will yield 2 combination breads, 1 rye with pumpernickel swirled inside and the other a brown bread with rye inside.
Cocktail Rye
This can be served plain or with either or both of the fillings and toppings below.
Fillings:
Caraway seeds
Onion Filling and Topping (this page)
Knead one or both of the fillings into the dough after mixing. Roll the dough into thin baguette shapes about 1 inch in diameter and 12 inches long. Roll the tops in one of the toppings below before the final rise.
Toppings:
NOTE In my bakery, we used pretzel salt. Coarser than kosher salt, it does not dissolve into the crust when baked. If you can’t find pretzel salt through your usual sources, try a bagel shop.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sour and altus and mix until incorporated. Add the ice water, then mix in 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Next, mix in 3 more cups of the flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft, but keep in mind that this dough will be softer than usual. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot.
Turn out onto a floured work surface, shape the dough into 2 balls, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
4½ cups Rye Sour (this page; see Note)
¾ cup altus (optional; see this page)
6 to 7½ cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
1½ tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons caraway seeds, or more to taste (optional)
Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page) or water, for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, 6 cups of the flour, salt, and caraway seeds. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Run at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft, but be aware that rye dough is softer than other types and will tend to feel sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (5 to 8 minutes).
Turn out and shape into 3 balls. Cover and let the dough rest for 15 minutes. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except make 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
NOTES For a milder flavor, 3 cups of Rye Sour can be used instead of 4½ cups, in which case the loaves will be a bit smaller. First clear flour can be difficult to find (see this page). You can substitute 5 to 6½ cups all-purpose flour plus 1 cup cake flour, but the bread won’t taste as good.
Pumpernickel Bread
Pumpernickel flour is a tan, coarse flour made from the first milling of the rye kernel; it is similar in texture to unprocessed bran or coarse whole wheat flour. Real pumpernickel bread is made with Rye Sour, and the best pumpernickel bread is made with altus. Thinly sliced pumpernickel bread makes wonderful cheese and cold-cut sandwiches. It’s also delicious with rich soups. I can make a meal out of raisin pumpernickel bread with butter or cream cheese.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
1 cup altus (optional; see this page)
¼ cup pumpernickel color (see this page)
1 cup pumpernickel flour (see Note)
2½ to 3½ cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 2½ cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of flour as needed. Make the dough a bit stiffer than normal, since this dough softens as it is kneaded. Knead the dough until it feels smooth and silky (5 to 8 minutes).
RISING Shape the dough into a ball, place in a large oiled bowl, and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size, 30 to 40 minutes. Punch down, cut in half, shape into rounds, then let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 round loaves. Place on a baking sheet lightly sprinkled with cornmeal. Cover with a damp cloth and keep in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size. Brush with the cornstarch solution. Punch 5 times with an ice pick or skewer, 1 hole in the center and 4 holes in a circle around the center. With a wet finger, push all the way down in the center hole, leaving a large indent in the middle of the loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (30 to 45 minutes). If you have an oven stone or tiles, bake the loaves directly on them for the last 10 minutes to develop a crusty loaf. If the top of the loaves feel soft, return to the oven and bake 5 to 10 minutes longer. After baking, brush again with the cornstarch solution to ensure a shiny crust. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTES Pumpernickel flour is available in some specialty markets and natural foods stores, or you may get it from from a local bakery or purchase it via the Internet. Pumpernickel flour is often labeled medium rye in supermarkets; use it if you find it. If unavailable, use rye meal, unprocessed bran, or coarse stone-ground whole wheat flour; alternatively, you can finely grind rye cereal in a blender, food processor, or coffee mill. First clear flour, also called clear flour or common flour, may also be obtained from a local bakery or via the Internet. All-purpose flour can be substituted, but the bread will not taste as good.
In my bakery, we used pretzel salt. Coarser than kosher salt, it does not dissolve into the crust when baked. Pretzel salt is not easily obtained. If it cannot be found through your usual sources, try a bagel shop or pretzel maker.
Variations
Marble Rye
Follow the directions for Marble Rye on this page.
Raisin Pumpernickel Bread
Plump 1 cup raisins (1½ cups in the stand mixer recipe) in hot water for 30 minutes. Knead into the dough just before shaping the loaves.
Raisin Pumpernickel Bread, Pullman Style
This square-shaped bread lends itself to thin slicing. The Pullman pan in which it is baked creates a dense texture that is exceptionally moist.
Prepare the dough as in Raisin Pumpernickel, above, then shape into a large pan loaf (see this page). Place in a greased 12-inch Pullman pan (see this page) and allow to rise until almost to the top of the pan. Grease the underside of the cover, slide it on, and bake at 375°F. After 35 minutes, remove the top of the pan and bake until done. An alternate method is to put the bread in a long loaf pan, cover with a baking sheet, and lay a heavy ovenproof weight or brick on top while baking. Allow extra baking time for large Pullman loaves (at least 10 to 15 minutes, test by tapping—about 45 to 60 minutes all together).
Onion Pumpernickel
Knead Onion Filling and Topping (this page) into the dough before shaping. Roll the top of the loaves in the onion topping before the final rise.
Cocktail Pumpernickel
Knead caraway seeds or Onion Filling and Topping (this page) into the dough just before shaping, or leave the dough plain. Roll the dough into thin baguette shapes about 1 inch in diameter and at least 12 inches long. Roll the top of the loaves in your choice of toppings (caraway seeds and kosher salt, Onion Filling and Topping, sesame seeds, or simply kosher salt—see note, above) before the final rise, or leave plain.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour and mix until incorporated. Add the altus, ice water, pumpernickel color, and pumpernickel flour and pulse to combine. Mix in 1 cup of the first clear flour and the salt; pulse until incorporated. Mix in 1½ more cups first clear flour, ¾ cup at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups altus (optional; see this page) 6 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page)
1½ cups pumpernickel flour (see Note above)
3¾ to 5¼ cups first clear flour (see this page and Note above)
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 3¾ cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Laszlo’s Sourdough Potato Rye Bread with Caraway
This is my father’s recipe, which he brought with him from Hungary. He often reminisced about the old-world potato breads, which were evidently in wide use throughout Europe, where he traveled as a journeyman baker. Sourdough potato rye bread has the flavor of fine rye plus the texture and moisture-retention properties of potato bread. The result is a rye bread that will remain soft and tender for more than a week under normal storage conditions.
1 cup warm water, preferably potato water (see Note)
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
½ cup mashed potato (see Note)
2 cups Rye Sour (this page)
3 cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
1 tablespoon salt
Additional rye flour, if needed (see Note)
2 tablespoons caraway seeds, or more to taste (optional)
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting baking sheet
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Blend in the mashed potato and Rye Sour. Add the first clear flour and stir in the salt with your fingertips to incorporate. Mix with a wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead. Add rye flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but keep in mind that rye dough is softer and sticker than other types. Knead the dough until it is elastic (5 to 8 minutes).
Place the dough on an oiled work surface. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes. Punch down, and sprinkle with caraway seeds.
SHAPING Shape into 1 or 2 round loaves. Place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or rye flour. Proof, covered, until doubled in size. In the bakery we proofed the loaves and baked them on the oven hearth using a wooden peel. Brush the loaves with water or the cornstarch solution. Stipple with 10 to 12 holes using a skewer or an ice pick.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). If 1 large loaf is made, allow for an additional 10 to 15 minutes of baking time. The top and sides should feel hard to the touch. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves.
NOTES Peel and quarter a potato and boil in at least 1½ cups water to cover for about 10 minutes or until soft. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the potato water (store extra potato water in the refrigerator for use in any bread recipe). Cool the potato, then mash. Instant mashed potatoes can be used, but you lose the added benefit of the potato water. You can substitute 2½ cups all-purpose flour plus V cup cake or pastry flour for first clear flour, but the bread will not taste as good.
If additional flour is required, the sour was too thin. Add rye flour ¼ cup at a time to compensate.
Variation
Onion Potato Rye Bread
Before shaping the bread, knead in Onion Filling and Topping (this page) made with caraway seeds instead of poppy seeds.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup of warm water use:
¼ cup warm water, preferably potato water
¾ cup ice water, preferably potato water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, mashed potato, and Rye Sour; pulse until incorporated. Blend in 1 cup of the first clear flour and the salt, then mix in the remaining 2 cups first clear flour, 1 cup at a time; pulse until incorporated. More rye flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft, but keep in mind that rye dough is softer and stickier than other types. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Shape the dough into 1 or 2 balls. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes. Press down, sprinkle with the caraway seeds, and proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water, preferably potato water (see Note)
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
¾ cup mashed potato (about 1 medium potato; see Note)
3 cups Rye Sour (this page)
4½ cups first clear flour (see this page and Note)
1½ tablespoons salt
Rye flour, if needed (see Note)
3 tablespoons caraway seeds, or more to taste (optional)
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the mashed potato, Rye Sour, first clear flour, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More rye flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Keep in mind that rye dough is softer than usual.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (5 to 8 minutes).
Turn out onto an oiled work surface and shape into 1, 2, or 3 round balls. (Try 1 large loaf. Large breads take longer to bake and hold more moisture. They will be tastier and will last longer. Allow at least 10 to 15 minutes extra baking time.) Cover and let the dough rest for 10 minutes. Press down, sprinkle with the caraway seeds, and proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 large to 3 small loaves.
NOTES Peel and quarter the potatoes. Boil in at least 2 cups water to cover for about 10 minutes, until soft. Drain, reserving 1½ cups of the potato water (store extra potato water in the refrigerator for use in any bread recipe). Cool, then mash. Instant mashed potatoes can be used, but you lose the added benefit of the potato water. You can substitute 3¾ cups all-purpose flour plus ¾ cup cake or pastry flour for the first clear flour, but the bread will not taste as good.
If additional flour is required, the sour was too thin. Add rye flour ¼ cup at a time to compensate.
Seven-Grain Bread
This was the most popular of the whole-grain breads in the specialty bakery, and was derived from a popular bread made all over Germany at the time. Rye Sour is the secret of its success. High fiber and a crunchy, nutlike flavor add to its appeal. It is especially good when toasted.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page and Note)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
1 cup softened and drained seven-grain cereal (see Note)
2½ to 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Vegetable oil, for coating bowl
Rolled oats or sesame seeds, for topping
Shortening or vegetable oil, for greasing pans
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the pumpernickel color, Rye Sour, the softened cereal, 2½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until thoroughly combined and the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until soft and silky (5 to 8 minutes). More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary. This dough should be on the soft side and does not require extra kneading.
Shape the dough into a ball and place in a clean, oiled bowl, turning several times to coat. Cover with a cloth and let the dough stand until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down, divide in half, and shape into 2 pan loaves (see this page). Roll in oatmeal flakes or sesame seeds and place, seam down, in 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free spot until the bread rises above the rims of the pans. Slash once down the length of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 380°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). Remove from the pans for the last few minutes of baking to get a crusty bottom. The top should feel firm when pressed in the center. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTES You can substitute an equal amount of caramel syrup (found in many Hispanic markets), molasses, cocoa powder, or instant coffee in place of pumpernickel color. Keep in mind that they will never be as dark as pumpernickel color. Seven-grain cereal can be found in natural foods stores. To soften the cereal, chop or grind, cover with water, and let soften overnight; alternatively, you can cook it in boiling water for 5 minutes or in the microwave oven for 5 minutes at high power. Use ⅓ cup cereal to 1 cup water (½ cup cereal to 1½ cups water in the stand mixer recipe).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, pumpernickel color, Rye Sour, the softened cereal, 2½ cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into a clean, oiled bowl, turning several times to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1 cup ice water
3 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page and Note above)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups softened and drained seven-grain cereal (see Note above)
3¾ to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Rolled oats or sesame seeds, for topping
In the mixing bowl, spinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, pumpernickel color, Rye Sour, the softened cereal, 3¾ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (5 to 8 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to a clean, oiled bowl and turn several times to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Whole Wheat Sour Rye Bread
This unique bread has a flavor all its own. The sour in the recipe keeps the bread moist and gives it a long shelf life. Your family will enjoy it toasted or plain with sandwiches and meat entrées. Cheese, lettuce, and tomato provide new flavor experiences when layered between the slices.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2½ to 3½ cups rye flour
1 tablespoon salt
Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page) or water, for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, soften the yeast in the warm water. Add the Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, 2½ cups of the rye flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead. If the dough is moist and sticky, add rye flour ¼ cup at a time. Knead until the dough is soft and elastic (5 to 8 minutes). This dough tends to feel a bit sticky until it is well developed.
Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn several times to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Punch down and cut in half, then shape into rounds, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 2 free-standing pan loaves (see this page). Place on a baking sheet dusted with rye flour or cornmeal. Cover with a floured cloth and allow to rise until doubled in size. Brush with the cornstarch solution, then cut 4 diagonal slashes into the top of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). The top and sides should feel hard to the touch. Brush again with the cornstarch solution. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1¾ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, and whole wheat flour. Blend until incorporated. Add 2½ cups of the rye flour (1 cup at a time) and the salt. Pulse until the dough starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl and tries to ride up on top of the blade. More rye flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft, but keep in mind that this dough will be softer than others. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn several times to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (3 heaping tablespoons)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
4½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
3¾ to 5¼ cups rye flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page) or water, for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, 3¾ cups of the rye flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). More rye flour can be added ¼ cup at a time, but keep in mind that this dough tends to be sticky.
Transfer the dough to an oiled mixing bowl and turn several times to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Bavarian Pumpernickel Bread
This 100 percent rye flour bread—gourmet Bavarian pumpernickel at its best—has no wheat, no gluten, no kneading, and no proofing. Rye flour, water, salt, and yeast are all it takes to produce this healthy whole-grain loaf. Made of Rye Sour, pumpernickel flour (medium rye flour), rye berries or kernels, and white rye flour, it is an ancient and flavorful bread. It is good with thick soups, cheese, cold cuts, hearty wursts, and deli meats, or anywhere you would use pumpernickel.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
1 cup altus (optional; see this page)
2 cups cooked rye berries (see Note)
3 to 4 tablespoons pumpernickel color (optional; see this page)
3 cups pumpernickel flour (medium rye) or rye meal
1 tablespoon salt
Rye flour, as needed
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, cooked rye berries, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, and salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding rye flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. This dough will remain wet, with the consistency of heavy clay. Turn out onto a lightly oiled work surface.
SHAPING Grease a Pullman pan (see this page) or loaf pan (about 8 inches by 4 inches by 3 inches). Knead the dough into a ball and form into a cylinder the length of the pan. Place the dough in the pan. Press the dough down evenly; it should come within ¼ inch of the top. If you use a Pullman pan, grease the inside of the cover, and slide it in place before baking. In lieu of a Pullman pan, place the loaf pan on a baking sheet, grease a second baking sheet, and invert it over the top of the bread. During baking, weight down the baking sheet with a heavy ovenproof weight or a brick. Do not proof this bread; bake it right away.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for approximately 45 to 55 minutes. After the first 35 minutes, carefully remove the cover, turn out the bread, and finish baking with the bread inverted directly on an oven stone or clay tiles, or on a baking sheet. The loaf is done when it emits a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom with your fingertips. Let cool on a wire rack, wrap in plastic wrap or aluminum foil, and refrigerate overnight. The next day, cut into very thin slices. Wrap well with plastic wrap and freeze or refrigerate if not used immediately.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.
NOTE To cook rye berries, bring 3 cups water to a boil and add 1 cup rye berries (kernels) or chopped rye berries (chop them in a blender or food processor). Return the water to a boil and cook, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the cereal is tender (about 45 minutes). Leftovers can be used as a breakfast cereal or mixed with cooked rice.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, cooked rye berries, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, and salt. Pulse until thoroughly blended, adding rye flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. This dough will remain wet, with the consistency of heavy clay. Turn out onto a lightly oiled work surface. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups altus (optional; see this page)
3 cups cooked rye berries (see Note above)
4½ to 6 tablespoons pumpernickel color (optional; see this page)
4½ cups pumpernickel flour (medium rye)
1½ tablespoons salt
Rye flour, as needed
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, cooked rye berries, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, and salt. Mix until blended. Continue mixing at second or third speed until all of the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. Add rye flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. This dough will remain wet, with the consistency of heavy clay. Turn out onto a lightly oiled work surface. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 2 loaves.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Hutzelbrot
This is an ancient bread. It is believed to date back before refined sugar was manufactured. I believe that it may have been used as dessert. I once baked this bread for Julia Child. When she saw it, she turned to her producer with a surprised look and asked in a whisper if he had ever heard of the bread. This German black bread with either diced citron or dried apricots and prunes makes for table talk when company comes. Serve as a snack with a beverage and cheese or with cocktails. Try it buttered or just plain. Or use it as dessert.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
1 cup altus (optional; see this page)
¼ cup pumpernickel color (see this page)
1½ cups pumpernickel flour
2 to 3 cups first clear flour (see this page) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
½ cup diced citron or quartered dried apricots and prunes, or more to taste
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
Rye flour, for maszda (paste) topping (optional)
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 2 cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of first clear flour as necessary, but do keep this dough a bit soft. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (5 to 8 minutes). Knead in the citron.
RISING Roll the dough into a ball and place in a large oiled bowl, turning several times to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (about 30 to 45 minutes). Punch down, shape into a round, then let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into 1 large free-standing loaf (see this page). Place directly on a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal, cover with a cloth, and proof in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size. Brush with the cornstarch solution. In my bakery we mixed rye flour with enough water to make a paste, which the bakers called maszda. This is spread with the hands carefully over the top and sides of the proofed loaf before slashing. Cut a series of diagonal slash marks along both sides of the top of the bread, then stipple a line of holes down the length. The maszda bakes into a gray crusty topping that nicely complements the dark bread.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (45 to 60 minutes). If you are using an oven stone, place the bread directly on it for the last 10 minutes to develop a crusty loaf. If the top crust feels soft, return the bread to the oven and bake 5 to 10 minutes longer. After baking, brush the top with the cornstarch solution again to ensure a shiny crust. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 large loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour and altus; mix until incorporated. Add the ice water, pumpernickel color, and pumpernickel flour and pulse to combine. Mix in 2 cups of the first clear flour (1 cup at a time) and the salt and pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead in the citron by hand. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 large loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups altus (optional; see this page)
6 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page)
2¼ cups pumpernickel flour (medium rye)
3 to 4½ cups first clear flour (see this page) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
¾ cup diced citron or quartered dried apricots and prunes, or more to taste
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
Rye flour, for maszda (paste) topping (optional)
In the mixing bowl, soften the yeast in the warm water. Add the Rye Sour, altus, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 3 cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Add the citron using first speed or knead it in by hand.
Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 1 large or 2 small loaves.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves.
Russian Health Bread
In the bakery, we made a pumpernickel bread with chopped whole grains of rye. These rye “chops” are used in a bread known as Russian Health Bread. It is quite tasty and unusual in appearance.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1 cup altus (optional; see this page)
½ cup rye chops (see Note)
¼ cup pumpernickel color (see this page and Note)
1 cup pumpernickel flour
2½ to 3½ cups first clear flour (see this page) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, rye chops, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 2½ cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of first clear flour as necessary, until the dough is smooth and silky (5 to 8 minutes).
RISING Roll the dough into a ball and place in a large oiled bowl, turning to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down, cut into 4 parts, and roll each into a ball. Spill pumpernickel flour into 2 greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Jiggle and turn the pans so that the sides and bottoms are coated. Pour out the excess flour and reserve it for dusting the loaves.
Place 2 balls of dough side by side in each loaf pan. This is called a saddle loaf and breaks easily into 2 breads when done. Dust the tops generously with the reserved pumpernickel flour, then proof, covered, in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size. Punch a hole in each half with a blade or skewer and indent by pushing your finger through to the bottom.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). If using an oven stone or tiles, remove the loaves from the pans and bake directly on them for the last 10 minutes to develop a crusty loaf. If the top crust feels soft, return the bread to the oven and bake 5 to 10 minutes longer. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 2 large loaves.
NOTES You’ll need to make your own rye chops. Begin with rye berries or rye cereal, available in natural foods stores, and chop it using a spice or coffee grinder, a blender (in small amounts), or a food processor, which takes longer. Instead of pumpernickel color, you can substitute either 2 tablespoons molasses, 2 tablespoons cocoa powder, or 2 tablespoons instant coffee, or more to suit.
Pullman Pumpernickel Bread, German Style
This square-shaped bread is excellent for sandwiches, especially when thinly sliced. The Pullman pan in which it is baked creates an exceptionally moist loaf with a dense texture. Shape the dough into a long pan loaf (see this page), place in greased 12-inch Pullman pan (see this page), and allow to rise until ½ inch from the top of the pan. Grease the inside of the cover, slide it on, and bake at 375°F. After 35 minutes, remove the top and bake until done. An alternate method is to put the bread in a long loaf pan, cover with a baking sheet, and weight down the top with a heavy ovenproof weight or brick while baking.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, altus, and ice water. Mix until incorporated. Add the rye chops, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 2½ cups of the first clear flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 large loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
2¼ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups altus (optional; see this page)
¾ cup rye chops (see Note above)
6 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page and Note above)
1½ cups pumpernickel flour
3¾ to 5¼ cups first clear flour (see this page) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
In the mixing bowl, soften the yeast in the warm water. Add the Rye Sour, altus, rye chops, pumpernickel color, pumpernickel flour, 3¾ cups of the first clear flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More first clear flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (5 to 8 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape the dough into 6 balls and make 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Jewish Corn Bread
This bread should really have a chapter of its own. Jewish Corn Bread is the best bread that I know how to make! How can I describe it? It’s middle European in origin. In Europe, corn as we know it in the United States is called maize. Europeans use the word corn to mean “grain” or “staples,” which encompasses wheat, oats, rye, barley, and maize. So when we speak of corn bread in the United States we usually mean bread made from cornmeal, such as corn muffins, corn sticks, cornpone from the South, or johnnycake from New England. The corn bread that I write about here originated in Europe. It is made from rye and wheat flours; there is no corn in it at all. Some folks erroneously refer to it as corn-rye, and mistakenly bake a bread that has both rye and cornmeal in the recipe. I will stick to the proper name.
I have a lot of good things to say about this bread. It is not difficult to make; the recipe is very simple. Like many great breads the world over, it contains only water, flour, salt, and yeast. However, the procedure is different from any other bread and the directions must be followed carefully. There are few bakeries left that haven’t compromised it’s real flavor, moisture, and texture. Follow the directions and success will be assured. I believe that this is the first time it has ever been reproduced for the home baker in its proper version. Don’t let the length of the instructions intimidate you. They are simple. Just go along one step at a time. They are easy to follow.
If you have a heavy-duty electric stand mixer, I recommend that you use it, since corn bread is made from a soft, wet dough that can be difficult to handle. I do not recommend using the food processor for this bread.
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups Rye Sour (see this page)
1½ cups rye flour
2 cups first clear flour, or more as needed (see this page and Note)
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal or cornmeal and rye flour, for dusting baking sheet (see Note)
2½ tablespoons caraway seeds, plus more for sprinkling (optional)
Cornstarch solution (see this page) or water, for brushing bread
In a large bowl, soften the yeast in warm water. Add the Rye Sour, rye flour, and 2 cups of the first clear flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until thoroughly incorporated. Turn out onto a work surface covered with first clear flour. Use a plastic bowl scraper or dough cutter in one hand to help knead what will be a very soft, wet dough. Knead by scraping, folding, pulling, and stretching. Pretend that you are pulling taffy. Continue for 5 minutes. The dough should have some elasticity and resist being stretched. Keep the dough soft. If the dough does not feel lively or elastic, alternately add rye flour then first clear flour ¼ cup at a time, stretching and kneading with each addition. Continue for another 3 minutes. The wetter the dough, the better the bread. The amount of flour will vary depending upon how stiff you made the sour.
Keep a container of cold water nearby. Transfer the dough to a prepared clean, wet bowl. Keeping hands wet at all times, pat the dough down and cover with a film of water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside. Allow the dough to rise until doubled in volume, 45 to 60 minutes.
SHAPING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Prepare a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal or a mixture of cornmeal and rye flour, upon which the bread will be baked. Wet a clean work surface generously with water. When ready, cover the top of the dough with 2½ tablespoons of the caraway seeds. Keeping your hands wet at all times, scoop out half of the dough and round up by bringing the sides of the dough down to the middle. Keep gathering together until you have a ball of dough. (Like smoothing your hair back along the sides and gathering it together at the back.) Handle the dough gently so that it does not tear. Place it on the wet work surface. Turn and push the sides down and underneath to further round up the bread. Work your hands underneath and gently lift the loaf, setting it down onto the prepared baking sheet. Smooth the dough down with a caressing, circular motion. Press down, flattening out the top. It will spring up in the oven. Sprinkle extra caraway seeds on top. Allow the dough to stand no longer than 10 minutes. You may place it in the oven without standing time. Do not proof.
BAKING Place an empty broiler tray on the oven floor. Brust the bread with the cornstarch solution. Insert the sheet with the bread on the middle shelf of the oven, or on tiles or an oven stone if you have either. Add 6 to 8 ice cubes or 1 cup hot water to the hot broiler tray and shut the door. Be careful to protect your hands and face from the burst of steam. Bake for exactly 5 minutes. Steam in the oven is not desirable after that, so in exactly 5 minutes carefully remove the hot broiler tray with the remaining water. Select a space in advance on which to set the hot pan. Observe caution with the hot water. Slide the bread out, and with a skewer or ice pick, stipple 10 to 12 holes all around the crust, then return to the oven. Reduce the heat to 350°F. After 10 minutes, stipple once more and brush again with the cornstarch solution. When the bread begins to brown, turn and move the bread to ensure even baking. Bake until the crust is hard and unyielding to gentle pressure. Timing will vary depending on the amount of moisture in the dough. It may take 1 hour or longer. The bread is done when tapping the bottom with your fingertips emits a hollow sound and the top and sides are hard. You can continue baking for an additional 10 to 15 minutes (on the tiles or oven stone if using) to make the bread crustier. Remove from the oven, brush the top with the cornstarch solution, and cool on a wire rack. The bread will keep well for upwards of a week in the bread box. It also freezes well and makes wonderful thin-sliced toast.
YIELD 1 large or 2 small loaves.
NOTE Try to get first clear flour from a bakery (or see this page). You can substitute 1½ cups all-purpose flour and ⅓ cup cake or pastry flour, but it won’t come out as good. When you become proficient, you may want to try using a peel the way we did in the bakery (see this page).

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, rye flour, first clear flour, and salt. Mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Be patient. If the dough does not come away, run at second speed for a few minutes.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook and continue mixing at second speed for 5 minutes. If the dough does not come away from the sides of the bowl, use third speed for 2 minutes. If it still does not come away, run at first speed and alternately add rye flour then first clear flour ¼ cup at a time, but be aware that this will be a wet, sloppy dough.
Wet a clean mixing bowl by swishing water around the inside. Transfer the dough to the prepared bowl. Keeping your hands wet at all times, remove the hook, pat down the dough, and cover with a film of water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, set aside, and allow the dough to rise until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
Sourdough French Bread
Sourdough French Bread has the thick, crisp crust of French bread plus a delightful tang that will have you devouring this loaf with gusto. It is delicious with wine and cheese, soups, meats, sandwiches—anywhere you would use a crusty bread.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 cups Rye Sour (this page)
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix with a large wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a push, turn, fold motion. If the dough is too soft or wet, add more flour ¼ cup at a time while kneading. Knead until smooth and elastic (12 to 15 minutes). The dough should feel as though it is pushing back as you knead. Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat.
RISING Allow the dough to rise, covered, until puffy (about 30 minutes). Punch down, shape into a ball, and allow to rise again, oiled and covered, until doubled in volume (45 to 60 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down again and cut into 4 equal pieces. Shape each into a narrow baguette (see this page) and place, seam down, on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or in greased baguette pans. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth and proof in a warm, draft-free area until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Do not add any moisture; this bread likes to be dry proofed. With a sharp knife or razor blade, score 3 to 6 diagonal slashes down the center of each loaf (see this page).
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place an empty broiler pan on the floor of the oven for 5 minutes. Place the bread on the middle shelf of the oven. Carefully pour 1 cup boiling water or place 8 or 9 ice cubes into the broiler pan in the oven. Protect your hands and face from the burst of steam. Do not open the oven door for at least 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. The bread is done when tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (about 20 minutes more). The top and sides of the bread should be hard to the touch. As long as the color of the crust remains light, an extra 5 to 10 minutes of baking will improve the crust. The bread will have a better crust if it is removed from the pan and baked on tiles or an oven stone for the last 5 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 4 baguettes.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Blend, then add 3 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if needed. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 4 baguettes.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
2½ cups ice water
3 cups Rye Sour (this page)
7½ to 9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, 7½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough forms up into a ball.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed until the dough is smooth and elastic (12 to 15 minutes). More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out into an oiled bowl, and turn once or twice to coat. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 3 large or 6 small baguettes.
YIELD Makes 3 large or 6 small baguettes.
Whole Wheat Sourdough French Bread
This round country-style bread is baked longer than a baguette and retains more moisture. A rough texture and the addition of coarse flour gives this bread a special flavor.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
3 cups Rye Sour (this page)
½ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 to 3 cups bread flour
3½ teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting baking sheet
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, 2 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix with a large wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a push, turn, fold motion. If the dough is too soft or sticky, add more bread flour ¼ cup at a time. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). The dough should push back when pressed. Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat.
RISING Allow the dough to rise, covered, until puffy (about 30 minutes). Punch down, then shape into a round ball, cover, and allow to rise again until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down again, then shape into a ball. Place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or rye flour. Cover with a flour-dusted cloth or towel, place in a warm, draft-free area, and allow to rise until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Dust with flour or brush with water, then use a sharp knife or razor blade to score the top with 4 slashes to form a square.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 475°F. Place an empty broiler pan on the floor of the oven for 5 minutes. Place the bread on the middle shelf of the oven. Quickly pour 1 cup boiling water or place 8 or 9 ice cubes into the broiler pan in the oven. Protect your hands and face from the initial burst of steam. Do not open the oven door for at least 10 minutes. Bake until tapping the bottom of the loaf with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (30 to 45 minutes). The top and sides of the loaf should be hard to the touch. The bread will have a better crust if it is removed from the pan and baked on a tile or baking stone for the last 5 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.
Variations
Substitute pumpernickel (medium rye) for the whole wheat flour for a different flavor. Use rye flour in place of the whole wheat flour.
Shape the dough into very thin, long baguettes, about 1 inch in diameter, for a crusty treat. Shorten the baking time.
Knead in Onion Filling and Topping (this page) and shape into narrow cigar-shaped sticks about 12 inches long. Adjust the baking time.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, 1 cup of the bread flour, and the salt. Blend, then add 1½ more cups bread flour. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if needed. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out into an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
4½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
3 to 4 cups bread flour
5¼ teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or rye flour, for dusting baking sheet
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, 3 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix at first speed until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out into an oiled bowl and turn once or twice to coat. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, but allow additional baking time for the large loaf (30 to 40 minutes all together).
YIELD Makes 1 large loaf.
Sourdough Barley Bread
In the search for healthful foods and new flavors, I came up with this whole-grain bread with a new and interesting flavor. Although using it in bread may seem new to us, barley was known to the ancients and was the chief bread ingredient in Europe as late as the 1500s. This bread keeps moist for a long time and freezes well.
2 cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 cups Rye Sour (this page)
3 cups barley flour
3 to 3½ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking pan
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, barley flour, 3 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more bread flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more bread flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky; however, this dough may be kept softer than usual. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise for 45 minutes. (This bread does not rise much.) Punch down, cut in half, shape into balls, and allow to rest, covered, for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Punch down and shape into 2 free-form pan loaves (see this page) or 2 round loaves and place on a cornmeal-dusted baking pan. Allow to rest, covered, for 15 minutes. For long loaves, score with 5 to 6 short diagonal cuts. The rounds can be stippled or slashed tic-tac-toe fashion (#).
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). For the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking, remove from the pan and bake on an oven stone or tiles, if you have them.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, barley flour, 3 cups of the bread flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and allow to rise for about 45 minutes. (This bread does not rise much.) Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 cups Rye Sour (this page)
4½ cups barley flour
4 ½ to 5¼ cups bread flour (preferred) or unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting pan
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, barley flour, 4½ cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more bread flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. This dough will be softer than usual. More bread flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and allow the dough to rise for about 45 minutes (this bread does not rise much). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Sourdough Bran Bread
Sourdough Bran Bread has dietary fiber, whole-grain flavor, a long shelf life, and the tang of sourdough. This dark, crusty loaf can be used for sandwiches and goes well with meat and cheese dishes. This bread is best when used a day after baking.
2 cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
1 cup unprocessed wheat bran flakes or oat bran flakes
4 to 5 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, bran flakes, 4 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. Continue until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). Transfer to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, cover, and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Punch down, divide in half, shape into 2 balls, and let rest, covered, for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Punch down once more. Shape each ball into a free-standing pan loaf (see this page) and place, seam down, on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Set aside, covered, in a warm area and allow to proof until doubled in size (45 to 60 minutes). Brush with water or the cornstarch solution, then cut 5 or 6 diagonal slashes across the top of each loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). For the last 5 minutes of baking, remove from the pan and bake directly on an oven stone or tiles, if you have them, to improve the crust.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, bran flakes, 2 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Blend until smooth. Add 2 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Transfer to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ cups Rye Sour (this page)
1½ cups unprocessed wheat bran flakes
6 to 7½ cups bread flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing loaves
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, bran flakes, 6 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, cover, and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 3 loaves.
YIELD Makes 3 loaves.
Sourdough Country Corn Bread
This is a heavy, moist, and extremely crusty country-style or peasant bread made of mixed grains. It’s good with soups and all manner of meats, including cold cuts or deli meats. It’s also excellent toasted and served with cheese or jam. The crust, which is dusted with flour, cracks haphazardly, creating crisp fissures that add to the bread’s unique character. This bread requires a starter that is aged for at least 6 hours. I do this very simply by mixing a yeast starter the evening before and leaving it to ferment at room temperature overnight.
Starter
1 cup warm water
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
1¼ cups warm water
¾ teaspoon active dry yeast
1 cup cornmeal, preferably fine grind
2¾ to 3¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Rye flour or potato starch (preferred) or all-purpose flour, for dusting bread
STARTER In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap or a cloth and set aside at room temperature for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
DOUGH In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add 1 cup of the starter, the cornmeal, 2¾ cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more flour in small amounts if necessary, but bear in mind that this dough should be softer than usual. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, cover, and allow to rise until puffed up (about 30 minutes). Punch down and allow to rise again until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
SHAPING Shape into a ball and place on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Set aside, covered, and allow to rest until puffy (about 30 minutes). Brush with water and dust with rye flour, potato starch, or all-purpose flour. Cut 5 or 6 diagonal slashes across the top of the loaf.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). For the last 5 minutes of baking, remove from the pan and bake on an oven stone or tiles, if you have them, to improve the crust.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the Dough recipe above, instead of 1¼ cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1 cup ice water
Prepare the starter as above.
To make the dough, in the work bowl sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the starter, ice water, cornmeal, 2¾ cups of the flour (approximately 1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if needed, but bear in mind that this dough should be softer than usual. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Starter
1½ cups warm water
1½ teaspoons active dry yeast
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water
1½ teaspoons active dry yeast
1½ cups cornmeal, preferably fine grind
4¼ to 6¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
Rye flour or potato starch (preferred) or all-purpose flour, for dusting bread
STARTER In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap or a cloth and set aside at room temperature for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
DOUGH In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add 1½ cups of the starter, the cornmeal, 4¼ cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Continue mixing at first speed for 8 to 10 minutes. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary, but this dough should be soft. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, but allow extra baking time for the larger loaf (45 to 60 minutes).
YIELD Makes 1 large loaf.
Sourdough Olive Bread
This dark-crusted loaf has a special zest that goes well with cheese, luncheon meats, chicken, and salads. Cream cheese sandwiches are one of my favorite uses for this bread. In my bakery, we sometimes used a bicycle form—a cylindrical, ridged metal form resembling a series of wheels lined up in continuous length. The form is greased, the dough is shaped and inserted, and the form is closed and locked. Proofing fills the form completely; when baked, you have a ridged loaf that slices into individual rounds or wheels of bread.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup Rye Sour (this page)
½ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
¾ cup rye flour
1½ to 2½ cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
4 ounces pitted black olives, preferably Greek or French, halved
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the oil, Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, rye flour, 1½ cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more bread flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more bread flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky, but do keep the dough softer than usual. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). Knead in the olives.
Transfer to an oiled bowl. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down and shape into a broad baguette (see this page) or a round. Score the long bread with a series of short diagonal cuts. The round can be stippled or slashed in a tic-tac-toe fashion.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound (35 to 45 minutes). If a form is used, remove it for the last 5 minutes of baking.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, oil, Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, rye flour, and salt. Blend, then add 1½ cups of the bread flour. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead in the olives. Transfer to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 tablespoons olive oil
¾ cup Rye Sour (this page)
¾ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1¼ cups rye flour
2¼ to 3¾ cups bread flour
1½ teaspoons salt
6 ounces pitted black olives, preferably Greek or French, halved
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the oil, Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, rye flour, 2¼ cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more bread flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More bread flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead in the olives. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 1 large or 2 small loaves.
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves.
Sourdough Naan
In northern India, naan is made using milk curds (used in cheese making), which leaven the dough by fermentation. The following dough, which uses baking powder and baking soda for additional leavening, must be allowed to ferment overnight or, better still, for 24 hours. When not using curds, a starter is desirable for superior results. Once the dough is prepared, a small portion of finished dough can be saved in the refrigerator until the next time you make naan. It will keep for 1 or 2 days in a covered container in the refridgerator. Note that any leftover yeast dough will work. (A recipe for naan using yeast is on this page.)
Starter
1 cup plain yogurt, buttermilk, or sour cream
½ cup bread flour
1 small piece leftover dough or a pinch of yeast
Dough
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon sugar
3 to 4 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil or melted butter, for coating
STARTER Mix all of the ingredients until smooth, then allow to stand, either uncovered or covered with a length of cheesecloth. Leave at room temperature until the starter becomes bubbly and puffy in appearance (at least overnight, and preferably for 24 hours).
DOUGH In a large bowl, combine the starter, eggs, sugar, 3 cups of the flour, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix with a large wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead until the dough feels smooth and silky (8 to 10 minutes). More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary, but keep this dough softer than usual.
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to stand for at least 3 hours. Punch down and divide into 6 equal pieces. Shape into rounds with your palms by cupping them over the dough and working the hands in a circular motion to form into a tight ball. Coat the rounds with oil or melted butter, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING On a clean, oiled work surface, flatten the first round with oil-coated hands. Roll or press into a 6- to 8-inch circle, turning at least once to coat with oil. Use your fingertips to press a series of indentations all over the bread.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 550°F. Oven tiles or a baking stone work best. If neither is available, place 2 baking sheets with rims, nested together and bottoms up, on the middle shelf of the oven and let them preheat for at least 5 minutes. Bake 1 or 2 naan at a time. Drape each over the palm of your hand and flip over onto the hot tiles. Bake until puffy and the bottom is flecked with brown (about 2 minutes). Pierce any extra-large bubbles with a long barbecue fork or skewer. Immediately turn on the broiler. With the door closed, continue baking until the tops begin to show some brown (1 to 2 minutes). Do not overbake. Switch the oven back to the bake setting. Remove the naan immediately with a long-handled spatula and cover by placing in the folds of a clean towel. Continue baking 1 or 2 naan at a time, stacking them 6 high in the towel and keeping them covered. Naan can be eaten warm or left to cool in the towel and then frozen in plastic bags.
YIELD Makes 6 naan.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Make the starter as above.
In the work bowl, place the starter, eggs, sugar, 2 cups of the flour, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Pulse to combine. Mix in 1 more cup flour. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl (2 to 3 minutes), adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too sticky, but keep this dough softer than usual. Do not overmix. Additional kneading by hand may be necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 6 naan.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Starter
1½ cups plain yogurt, buttermilk, or sour cream
¾ cup bread flour
1 small piece leftover dough or a pinch of yeast
Dough
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1½ tablespoons sugar
4½ to 6 cups bread flour
1½ tablespoons baking powder
Scant ½ teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil or melted butter, for coating
STARTER Mix all of the ingredients until smooth, then allow to stand, uncovered (or cover with a layer of cheesecloth), at room temperature until the starter becomes bubbly and puffy in appearance (at least overnight, and preferably for 24 hours).
DOUGH In the mixing bowl, place the starter, eggs, sugar, 4½ cups of the flour, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts as necessary, but keep this dough softer than usual. The finished dough should feel smooth and silky. You can mix at second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 9 rounds.
YIELD Makes 9 naan.
Whole Wheat Chapati, Tandoori Style
Chapati is a layered Indian bread generally baked on a griddle. This is a northern Indian version baked tandoori style. This is my favorite of the home-baked Indian breads.
Substitute 1 cup whole wheat flour (1½ cups in the stand mixer recipe) for the bread flour. Divide into 6 pieces (9 in the stand mixer recipe) and shape into rounds. Roll out each round into as thin a circle as possible. Brush the top with oil or melted butter. Fold the first circle into fours to form a triangle. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes while rolling and folding the rest of the pieces. Beginning with the first triangle, repeat this process 2 more times. (Roll out into as round a shape as possible.) If the dough gets too tough to roll, let it rest until it softens. Bake as above.
YIELD Makes 6 naan (9 in the stand mixer recipe).
San Francisco–Style Sourdough Bread
San Francisco sourdough bread had its roots in the gold rush days, when the miners, known as sour-bellies, carried a starter, or sour, in a pouch wrapped around their waist. Body heat kept the starter active. It was used for cooking flapjacks and baking biscuits.
A starter can be begun naturally with 3 to 4 days of standing time, but the results are never certain, and I prefer to give nature a bit of assistance. The addition of a minute amount of yeast will cut this time to 12 to 24 hours.
Once the starter is prepared, it can be kept indefinitely in the refrigerator with periodic refreshing. Prepare the starter the day before you are going to bake (3 to 4 days if yeast is not used). Store the prepared starter in a covered container in the refrigerator and stir down every 2 to 3 days. Once a week add 1 teaspoon water and 1 to 2 teaspoons flour and stir until smooth (see Rye Sour, this page).
Starter
1 cup warm water
⅛ teaspoon active dry yeast (optional)
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Sponge
1½ cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 cups bread flour
Dough
1 to 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
STARTER In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the milk powder and flour and stir until smooth. Leave uncovered in a draft-free spot for 12 to 24 hours. If yeast is not used in the starter, leave it to bubble, rise, and fall for 3 to 4 days. When ready, the starter will have a fermented aroma, which is normal.
SPONGE In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the flour and stir until smooth, then cover and set aside until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge. Add 1 cup of the starter, 1 cup of the flour, the sugar, salt, and baking soda. Stir with a wooden spoon stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead. Add more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough remains slack. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (10 to 12 minutes).
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, turn to coat, and let rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
SHAPING Leave the dough in 1 piece or cut into 2 or 3 pieces. Shape into 1 large round loaf, 2 Vienna-shaped loaves (see this page), or 2 or 3 long baguettes. Cover with a cloth and let rest for 15 minutes. Place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal, or in greased baguette pans if available. Cover and allow to double in size. Brush the tops of the breads with water. Slash the long loaf with 3 or 4 diagonal cuts; for a round loaf, cut 2 lengthwise and 2 crosswise slashes, tic-tac-toe fashion (#).
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Five minutes before baking, place a broiler pan on the floor of the oven. Place the bread on the middle shelf of the oven. Protect your hands and face from the initial burst of steam as you carefully pour 1 cup of hot water into the broiler pan. Do not open the oven door for at least 10 minutes. Bake the bread for 35 to 45 minutes, allowing 10 to 15 minutes extra baking time for the larger loaf. If using an oven stone or tiles, bake directly on them for the last 5 to 10 minutes for a better crust. The bread is done when tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound. Do not hesitate to leave the bread in the oven an extra 5 to 10 minutes if you like a very crusty loaf. Let cool, uncovered, on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 or 2 large loaves or 3 small loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
STARTER Prepare the starter as above.
SPONGE Place the sponge ingredients in the work bowl. Pulse until smooth. Keep the processor’s cover in place and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). You can leave the bowl and blade in place on the machine.
DOUGH Pulse once or twice to punch down the sponge, then add the starter, 1 cup of the flour, the sugar, salt, and baking soda. Pulse until the flour is incorporated. Additional flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is softer than usual. Knead by pulsing for about 60 seconds. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. It may be necessary to knead by hand for several minutes to make the dough elastic.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to stand until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 to 3 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Starter
1 cup warm water
⅛ teaspoon active dry yeast (optional)
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Sponge
2¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
3 cups bread flour
Dough
1½ to 3¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon salt
¾ teaspoon baking soda
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
STARTER Mix all of the ingredients until smooth, then allow to stand, uncovered, at room temperature until the starter becomes bubbly and puffy in appearance (at least overnight, and preferably for 24 hours). If yeast is omitted, prepare the starter 3 to 4 days ahead, allowing time for it to bubble, rise, and fall.
SPONGE In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the flour and mix until smooth. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes).
DOUGH Stir down the sponge with one or two rotations of the beater. Add 1½ cups of the starter, 1½ cups of the flour, the sugar, salt, and baking soda. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Knead at first speed until the dough is smooth and elastic (10 to 12 minutes). More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is slack. Second speed can be used for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 2 large loaves or 4 small loaves.
YIELD Makes 2 large or 4 small loaves.
Sourdough Italian Bread
This bread is an adaptation of a California sourdough bread recipe. I first tasted it at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco and enjoyed its rich flavor.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 cup Rye Sour (this page)
1½ tablespoons sugar
1½ tablespoons shortening, softened, or olive oil
1 cup bread flour
2 to 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, sugar, shortening, bread flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the side of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too sticky. Knead until the dough is soft and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 45 minutes). Punch down, shape into a ball, and let rest for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Shape into a round or any Italian bread shape (see this page). Place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal and allow to rise until doubled in size. Brush the tops with water. For a round loaf, cut 2 lengthwise slashes followed by 2 crosswise slashes, tic-tac-toe fashion (#). For a long loaf, make 3 or 4 diagonal slashes.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until brown and crusty (35 to 45 minutes). The bread is done when tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound. The top and sides of the loaf should feel hard to the touch. Let cool on a wire rack. This bread keeps nicely for several days in a bread box and also freezes well.
YIELD Makes 1 large loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, sugar, shortening, bread flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 large loaf.
STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 cups Rye Sour (this page)
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons shortening, softened, or olive oil
2 cups bread flour
4 to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, sugar, shortening, bread flour, 4 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more all-purpose flour if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More all-purpose flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except shape into 4 loaves.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Sourdough Tuscan Bread
Tuscan-style country Italian bread has a distinctive broad, round shape. Large wheels of this bread are impressive. You can achieve similar results using the stand mixer recipe and making one large loaf. Whole wheat flour is added here for color and an earthy flavor. This bread is often served when hard, drizzled with high-quality olive oil.
1 cup warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
2 cups Rye Sour (this page)
½ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
½ cup cake flour or pastry flour
2 to 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, cake flour, 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more all-purpose flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat.
RISING Cover and allow to rise until puffed up (about 30 minutes). Punch down and allow to rise once more until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
SHAPING Shape into a ball, then flatten down with your hand. Carefully transfer the bread onto a floured baking sheet (if you’re using an oven stone or tiles, transfer the bread to a floured peel). Proof, covered, until puffed up (about 20 minutes). Dust with flour and score with a tic-tac-toe design.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the baking sheet on the middle shelf of the oven (if using an oven stone or tiles, carefully slip the bread onto them from the peel). Bake with steam (see this page) until tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow sound and the top and sides are very firm (30 to 45 minutes). If using a baking sheet, bake directly on the oven rack for the last 5 to 10 minutes for a crustier loaf. Let cool on a wire rack.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.
Variations
Whole Wheat Sourdough Tuscan Bread
Replace half of the all-purpose flour with whole wheat flour mixed in 1 cup at a time.
White Sourdough Tuscan Bread
Replace the whole wheat flour with unbleached all-purpose flour.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, cake flour, and salt. Pulse until the ingredients are incorporated. Add 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More all-purpose flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and shape into a round. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Proceed as in the Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
¾ package active dry yeast (2 teaspoons)
3 cups Rye Sour (this page)
¾ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
¾ cup cake flour or pastry flour
3 to 3¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the Rye Sour, whole wheat flour, cake flour, 3 cups of the all-purpose flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More all-purpose flour can be added in small amounts as necessary. The dough should be smooth and elastic. You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Proceed as in the Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except allow extra time for the larger loaf (40 to 50 minutes all together).
YIELD Makes 1 large or 2 regular loaves. Try the large.
CHAPTER SEVEN
Rolls
Rolls play an important part in the baker’s repertoire. Sandwiches seem to become heartier and more substantial when made with a roll. Rolls can elevate the status of a particular dinner while conveying a message that the meal has been presented with extra care. Miniature dinner rolls add further elegance to holiday and party tables.
Vienna Rolls
Vienna rolls, also called kaiser rolls or hard rolls, are known for their distinctive shape. Whatever name you know them by, authentic Vienna rolls are rich in eggs, oil, and sugar. Faithfully reproduced from my father’s bakery formula, this is the recipe we used in my bakery for more than forty years. From the 1920s to the 1940s, these rolls were baked at least three times daily in very hot brick and tile ovens. The rolls had thin, hard crusts and were blown up during baking until the interiors were feathery light. Rolls that were baked for breakfast were considered stale by lunchtime; it was not unusual for a shopper to visit a favorite local bakery several times daily for fresh rolls. Present-day demands have forced the baker to prepare rolls that will keep soft for longer periods of time. Even in quality bakeries that still use the authentic recipes, the rolls are baked so that they will remain soft inside and keep longer in the home. Bake these rolls airy and crisp, the way they were meant to be enjoyed.
¼ cup warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
¾ cup cold water (use ice water in hot weather)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons malt syrup (see Note)
2 tablespoons sugar
3½ to 4 cups bread flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds, for topping (optional)
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand for a few minutes to soften. Add the cold water, eggs, oil, malt syrup, sugar, 3½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead vigorously, adding more flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. This should be a stiff dough. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and the gluten is fully developed (12 to 15 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise for 30 minutes. Punch down and allow to rise once more until doubled in volume (20 to 30 minutes). Punch down the dough again, divide into 3 pieces, cover, and let stand for 15 minutes.
SHAPING Roll out into ropes. Cut 6 equal pieces from each rope, then proceed as in Shaping Vienna Rolls on this page.
For seeded rolls, spread enough poppy or sesame seeds to cover a baking sheet. Line up the finished rolls and brush lightly with water. Arrange 9 rolls with the tops down on a seeded pan and lightly press down so that the seeds will adhere. Leave enough space between the rolls to permit them to double in size. Cover or set in a warm, draft-free space.
For plain rolls, lay waxed or parchment paper on a baking sheets, and grease or oil sparingly. There is no need to brush the rolls with water; just arrange them on the baking sheets as described for seeded rolls.
An alternate method of seeding the rolls is to prepare them as for plain rolls, then sprinkle with seeds before baking.
Proof the rolls upside down so that the design does not open. Allow to rise until doubled in size. In the bakery we let them rise to three or four times their original size, but this requires that they be handled very delicately or they will puncture like a balloon and collapse.
BAKING Lightly grease or oil a baking sheet, then carefully arrange each roll right side up on the pan, leaving room for them to rise in the oven. (When you become comfortable using a peel, bake the rolls on an oven stone or clay tiles for crusty rolls.) Do not puncture the rolls or they will deflate. The trick is to roll them over delicately onto your hands, palms up, and gently slide them off onto the pan. You will have no trouble handling rolls that have doubled in size. With experience you can let the rolls rise much larger.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. (If a lighter roll is desired, bake at 400°F.) Place an empty roasting pan on the floor of the oven for 5 to 10 minutes. Place the rolls in the oven, then carefully pour 2 cups hot water (or use 6 to 8 ice cubes) into the empty pan. Shield your face and hands from the burst of steam. Add more water after the first 10 minutes of baking. Bake until the rolls are golden brown (15 to 20 minutes). Always make sure that the rolls have a browned bottom.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.
NOTE Malt was always used in the bakery to enhance the dough and add color. When we began to freeze unbaked dough, we found it necessary to eliminate the malt. If you can find malt syrup in your supermarket or natural foods store, use it. It adds a special quality to the finished roll. When unavailable, omit the malt syrup and double the sugar in the recipe.
Variations
Sweet Dairy Butter Rolls
On holidays, in the bakery we couldn’t keep up with the demand for these butter rolls, which are dinner roll size (half the size of a Vienna roll).
Substitute 4 tablespoons unsalted butter (6 tablespoons in the stand mixer recipe) for the vegetable oil in the above recipe. After dividing the dough into pieces, cut each piece in half to yield 36 petite dinner rolls. Shape into Vienna rolls or plain round balls like hamburger rolls. Proof as for Vienna rolls. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds, or leave plain. Bake, then remove from the oven and brush with melted butter (preferred) or plain water. Butter rolls can be served warm or at room temperature.
YIELD Makes 36 dinner rolls.
Onion Vienna Rolls
Prepare Onion Filling and Topping (this page) and spread on a baking sheet as for seeded rolls, above. Place the rolls, tops down, on the onion filling, turn right side up, place on a pan, as above, then proof and bake.
YIELD Makes 18 large onion rolls.
Hamburger or Frankfurter Rolls
For hamburger rolls, spill a layer of sesame seeds onto a baking sheet or a clean work surface. Shape the dough into 18 balls, brush with water, and press the tops down into the seeds to make them adhere. Place the rolls right side up on 2 greased baking sheets, 9 rolls to a pan and evenly distributed so that they have room to rise. Proof, covered, until doubled in size, then bake as above.
For frankfurter buns, roll out the 18 individual pieces of dough into 6-inch ropes. Place them diagonally, in 3 rows of 3 rolls each, on 2 greased baking sheets and proof, covered, until doubled in size. Brush the tops with water and bake as above.
YIELD Makes 18 hamburger or frankfurter buns.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the recipe above, make sure that all of the ingredients are cold, and use ice water instead of cold water.
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, eggs, oil, malt syrup, sugar, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 1½ more cups flour, ¾ cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. This should be a stiff dough. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic and to fully develop the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
½ cup warm water
2 packages plus 1 teaspoon active dry
yeast (scant 2 tablespoons)
1 cup cold water (use ice water in hot weather)
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 tablespoons malt syrup (see Note above)
3 tablespoons sugar
5¼ to 6 cups bread flour
3¼ teaspoons salt
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds, for topping (optional)
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the cold water, eggs, oil, malt syrup, sugar, 5¼ cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 15 minutes at first speed. When using bread flour, the dough will soften slightly as the gluten develops. More flour can be added in small amounts if required. This should be a stiff dough. Monitor the mixer at all times. It may be necessary to hold down the bowl while mixing. The dough should be smooth and elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except divide the dough into 4 pieces and shape into 24 large rolls.
YIELD Makes 24 large rolls.
Shaping Vienna Rolls
In the beginning, when I first began working in the bakery, Vienna rolls were made by hand. It was not unusual to see six or more bread bakers sitting on high wooden stools or standing at long benches klopping out rolls all night long. The term klopping is descriptive of the knocking sound the bakers made with their karate chop blows on the work surface while molding the rolls into the distinctive Vienna roll rosettes. There was a camaraderie among the bakers that isn’t found today. They all had nicknames, some exquisitely descriptive. While working they would have lively conversations, often in several languages, which sometimes turned into heated arguments about baking, politics, the weather, the boss, or whatever. The work was hard, the heat often unbearable. The bakers were likely to be working in unventilated basements laden with flour dust. But they all speak about those old days with fondness.
Here’s how to make a Vienna roll. Don’t get discouraged at your first attempts. It takes time to get the hang of it, but it’s fun to do and you can always eat your mistakes. They’ll still taste good.
Prepare the Vienna Roll dough (this page). Shape into balls about 2 to 2½ ounces each. Dust lightly with flour (preferably rye flour), or toss them in the flour to coat. Cover and allow to stand about 5 minutes.
Flatten each ball into a 3-inch circle. Put your left thumb on the circle and stretch and fold a flap over your thumb. From this point on, keep your thumb in place inside the flap at all times. Seal the fold with a karate chop using the side of your hand.
Begin a second flap over from the right side and seal the edge with a chop as before. Turn your thumb and the dough slightly counterclockwise, pull a third flap over and chop to seal. Turn just enough to bring the fourth fold comfortably in line, sealing with the side-handed chop.
Stretch and fold a fifth time. Simultaneously remove your left thumb and use your right thumb to push the tip of the last flap into the hole left by the vacating thumb. You should have a 5-petaled rose-shaped design.
Your first attempts will be irregular but will bake up into tasty rolls. With practice you will quickly learn to make perfectly shaped Vienna rolls.

Hungarian Salt Sticks
My father was a member of a Hungarian fraternal organization that held an annual picnic for family and friends. Food was sold as a fund-raising adjunct and there were booths set up with hot and cold foods and beverages. Dad would work in the bakery all night prior to the picnic and bake dozens of salt sticks, crescent rolls, and large bread-sized versions of crescents.
On the day of the picnic while everybody was having a good time, he roamed about the area carrying a large carton of rolls on his shoulder and singing out in Hungarian, “Salt sticks, fresh—fresh salt sticks.” Spending little time with his family, he hawked his rolls throughout the day and contributed all the money he raised to the organization. For many years after he was gone, whenever I met any of his friends they always made a point of mentioning the annual picnic and his wonderful rolls. I would like to share his recipe with you.
Prepare Vienna Roll dough (this page) and allow to rise for 30 minutes.
Punch down the dough, cut into thirds, and shape into rounds. Cover and allow to rest until they begin to puff up (15 to 20 minutes). Press or roll out to about ½ inch thick. Cut 6 pie-shaped wedges from each round.
BAKER’S SECRET
Very few bakers know that a young dough (not fully proofed) yields extraordinary salt sticks.
With a stick-type rolling pin or dowel, roll out 1 wedge at a time, with the wide edge held away from you, until about 8 to 10 inches long and about 4 inches across the wide end. See the diagram for Croissants (this page). If the dough is too tough to roll, let it rest for several minutes while rolling other wedges. Sprinkle sparingly with flour if necessary. Professional bakers do this without flour on the work surface so that the dough adheres to the bench, making the salt stick easier to roll out.
BAKER’S SECRET
Pretzel salt is preferable because it will not dissolve during proofing and baking, but it can be difficult to locate. If you know a friendly bagel baker or pretzel maker, ask him or her to sell you some pretzel salt. It’s also available via the Internet.
Without lifting the triangle of dough from the work surface, gently roll the dough, jelly-roll fashion, from the wide end down to the bottom tip, stretching the tip as you roll. Seal the point by pressing it down into the edge of the roll. It should resemble a croissant 7 to 8 inches long. If necessary, gently elongate it by rolling outward from the center with your fingertips.
BAKER’S SECRET
Do not proof these salt sticks. They will spring up in the oven and bake with a dense texture.
Line up the 18 finished salt sticks in horizontal rows, edges touching. Carefully brush the tops with water. Avoid letting the water run off onto the work surface. Sprinkle with a few tablespoons of caraway seeds, then with coarse salt, such as pretzel or kosher salt.
Gently press with your hands to help make the seeds and salt adhere. Evenly space the salt sticks on a lightly greased baking sheet. Let them rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until well browned and crusty (15 to 20 minutes). The bottoms should have some color.
YIELD Makes 18 salt sticks.
Crescent Rolls
For crescents, follow the directions for Hungarian Salt Sticks (this page). Roll up into the long salt stick shape, then line up and brush with water. Sprinkle heavily with poppy seeds, preferably Dutch blue poppy seeds. Bring the ends around into a horseshoe shape and space evenly on 2 greased baking sheets, allowing room to rise. Proof, covered, until doubled in size, then bake in the same way as salt sticks.
YIELD Makes 18 crescent rolls.
For large bread-sized crescents, divide the dough into thirds, stretch each piece into a triangular shape, and roll it out until very long and thin. Make up the same way as crescents, then proof, covered, and bake 1 or 2 to a pan. The large breads will require a longer baking time than rolls (20 to 35 minutes all together). Large crescents can make an interesting centerpiece on your dinner table.
YIELD Makes 3 large crescents.
Flat Onion Rolls
To make onion rolls the way we did in the bakery, prepare Onion Filling and Topping (this page) and spread it onto 2 baking sheets. Prepare a young Vienna Roll dough (this page), allowing it to rest for 30 minutes, at which point the dough should have begun to rise.
Punch down the dough, cut into thirds, and shape into rounds. Cover and allow to rest until they begin to puff up (15 to 20 minutes). Press or roll out to circles about ½ inch thick. Cut each round into 6 wedges and shape into tight balls by cupping your palms over the pieces and rounding with a circular motion.
Evenly space 9 rolls on each onion-covered pan. Cover and allow to rise in a warm spot until doubled in size. Flatten all the rolls by pressing down into the onion filling so that plenty of onions adhere. Expel all the air and stretch the rolls with your fingertips to about 4 inches in width. Place on greased baking pans, onion side up. Cover and proof until the rolls are doubled in size. Press a single large indentation into the center of each roll with your thumb.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until nicely browned (15 to 20 minutes). Check to make sure that the bottoms are baked.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.
Miami Rolls
Over the years, these soft onion pockets or onion buns have become my favorite rolls. With their soft centers (from the onion filling) and crispy outside, Miamis really deliver an extra zing to the dinner table. Yum!
Prepare Onion Filling and Topping (this page) and spread it on a baking sheet. Prepare a young Vienna Roll dough (this page), allowing it to rest for 30 minutes, at which point the dough should have begun to rise.
Punch down the dough, cut into thirds, roll out into ropes, and divide each rope into 6 equal pieces. Place all of the cut pieces of dough onto the onions (placement can be haphazard), cover, and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
Take a piece of dough, press it down into the onions so that they adhere, and turn, onion side up, onto a work surface. Pull the dough and fold it into thirds, as you would a sheet of stationery for insertion into an envelope, forming a pocket with a bit of onion filling inside. Seal the seam by pressing.
With the closure on top, push the onion pocket into the onions once more. Leave it resting on top of the onions while you make up the rest of the rolls in the same manner. When all are ready, place them, onion side up, on a greased baking sheet, as evenly spaced as possible. Cover and proof until doubled in size. It’s okay if the rolls touch as they rise. Bake as in Flat Onion Rolls (this page). Pull apart when cooled.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.
Onion Pletzel
Also known as onion boards, these are large flat breads rolled out into chewy, onion-flaked boards, sort of a Jewish focaccia. Lightly baked onion pletzels may be used as a base for pizza, which is yummy if you love onions.
For an entirely different treat, we sometimes rolled onion pletzels extra-thin, brushed them with oil, spread a thin layer of onion filling on top, and sprinkled them heavily with additional poppy seeds. Then we stippled them well and baked without proofing until crisp. Once cooled, they can be broken into crackerlike portions. These go equally well with appetizers or a main course.
Prepare Onion Filling and Topping (this page). Prepare a young Vienna Roll dough (this page), allowing it to rest for 30 minutes, at which point the dough should have begun to rise. Punch down, cut into thirds, and roll up each into a loaf pan shape. Cover and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
Prepare 3 greased baking pans. Roll out and stretch each piece into a rectangular shape, allowing it to rest when it becomes too tough, then continue until the pieces cover the pans. Use your fingertips to press indentations over the entire surface. Brush with vegetable oil and cover lightly with Onion Filling and Topping. Cover and proof until doubled in height.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the bread has browned top and bottom (20 to 30 minutes). Let cool slightly on a wire rack. This bread is best when served warm.
YIELD Makes 3 pletzels.
Bagels
Bagels, like pizza, have become a universal food. Glowing rings of chewy dough, bagels are common additions to breakfast tables from coast to coast. Countless numbers of people lunch on bagel sandwiches. Complex carbohydrates and low fat content make bagels nutritionally desirable. The toppings for bagels are virtually unlimited. Try poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coarse salt, poppy seeds and coarse salt combined, minced onion flakes, or chopped or granulated garlic.
Serve bagels warm, toasted, or at room temperature. At home we like to slice them, scoop out the soft center with a spoon, and toast the remaining crust. Try these with cheese melted on top. If kept more than a day, reheat or toast them. Bagels freeze quite well and are best when defrosted slowly.
Very few bagel bakeries still make hand-rolled bagels. In my opinion, hand-rolled bagels taste better. This recipe describes an easy way to make them. Have 2 to 4 baking sheets on hand (nonstick or perforated pans if available), a large saucepan (4-quart capacity), a skimmer or slotted spoon, and some towels on which to drain the bagels.
2 cups warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
3 tablespoons malt syrup or sugar (see Note)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 to 8 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coarse salt, minced onion flakes, or chopped or granulated garlic, for topping
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add 2 tablespoons of the malt syrup, the oil, 6 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough forms up and comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of flour ¼ cup at a time as necessary. Bagel dough should be stiff. Work in as much extra flour as you can comfortably knead. The dough will soften slightly as the gluten develops. Knead until smooth and elastic (12 to 15 minutes).
RISING Roll the dough into a ball, place in a large oiled bowl, and turn to coat. Cover and let rise fully, until an impression made with your finger remains and does not sink into the dough (about 1 hour).
SHAPING Punch down, cut into thirds, and roll each piece into a rope between your palms. Cut each rope into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a rope 2 inches longer than the width of your hand. Flip the rope around your fingers to form a ring, with the ends overlapping about ½ inch. Seal the ends by rolling with your palms on the work surface. If the dough slides and resists rolling, dab on a drop of water with your fingers. Evenly space the bagels on 2 nonstick baking pans or very lightly oiled baking sheets (I apply a thin film with my fingers). Cover and let stand until puffy (10 to 20 minutes).
BOILING Bagels are boiled before they are baked. While they are proofing, fill a 4-quart saucepan two-thirds full with cold water; add the 1 remaining tablespoon malt syrup and bring to a boil. Spread whichever toppings you desire in individual plates or pans.
Carefully lower 2 or 3 bagels at a time into the boiling water and wait until they rise to the top. If they float, cook for about 1 minute on each side, turning once. If they have proofed too long, they will float instead of sinking, but this won’t greatly affect the final product.
Carefully lift out each bagel with a slotted spoon or skimmer. Drain momentarily, then turn into one of the dishes of toppings, if desired. Flip over if you prefer both sides to be covered. You may prefer to leave some plain. Evenly space 6 bagels on each baking sheet, topping side up.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 500°F. Bake with steam (see this page) turning once when the tops begin to brown until well browned on both sides. (15 to 20 minutes).
YIELD Makes 12 large bagels.
NOTE Malt syrup adds gloss and a subtle flavor to the finished bagel. If you can find malt syrup in your supermarket or natural foods store, use it.
Variations
Everything Bagels
For the topping, use a combination of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coarse salt, minced onion flakes, and chopped or granulated garlic.
Onion Bagels
Before shaping the dough into a rope, knead minced dehydrated onion flakes into the dough.
Cinnamon Raisin Bagels
Before shaping the dough into a rope, combine 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon sugar, and ½ cup raisins and knead into the dough until the cinnamon gives a marbleized appearance.
Rye Bagels
2 cups warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
3 tablespoons malt syrup or sugar (see Note above)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 cups rye flour
3 to 3½ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Prepare as in Bagels, above.
Onion Rye Bagels
Knead 2 tablespoons of minced dehydrated onions into the Rye Bagel dough before shaping into a rope.
Pumpernickel Bagels
1¾ cups warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
3 tablespoons malt syrup or sugar (see Note above)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
¼ cup pumpernickel color (see this page)
2 cups pumpernickel or medium rye flour
2 cups rye flour
2 to 3 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Prepare as in Bagels, above.
Onion Pumpernickel Bagels
Knead in 1 to 2 tablespoons minced dehydrated onion flakes and 1 tablespoon poppy seeds (optional) into Pumpernickel Bagel dough before shaping into a rope.
Egg Bagels
2 cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 eggs, lightly beaten
6 to 6½ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Prepare as in Bagels, above, except do not boil. Proof, then preheat the oven to 425°F and bake with steam (see this page) until evenly browned (15 to 20 minutes).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the basic Bagel recipe above, instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the ice water, 2 tablespoons of the malt syrup, the oil, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until blended. Add 4 cups flour in three portions. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Process until the dough reaches 78°F (2 to 3 minutes). The dough should be stiff. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, Boiling, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 12 large bagels.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version, above. The recipe may be doubled.
In the mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add 2 tablespoons of the malt syrup, the oil, 6 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough is smooth and elastic (12 to 15 minutes). Bagel dough should be stiff. Add flour cautiously, and do not exceed the capacity of the machine. Because the dough is so stiff, it is especially important not to leave the mixer running while unattended. The dough will soften slightly as the gluten develops. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, Boiling, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 12 large bagels.
Bialys
The name Bialystocker bagels or bialys is derived from Bialystok, a town in Poland where it is said they originated. I once heard them described as unbaked Jewish English muffins. Real bialys are dense, blistered, and chewy, with a toasted flourlike taste. They taste best when slathered with cream cheese. Try them with vegetable cream cheese (see Note). Bialys have a short shelf life and should be frozen unless consumed the day they are baked. Bialys might be an acquired taste, but if you give these ugly ducklings a chance, you may become enamored of them.
Topping
3 tablespoons minced onion (see Note)
2 teaspoons poppy seeds (optional)
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Pinch of salt
2 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
4 teaspoons sugar
6 to 6½ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
Flour, preferably rye flour, or cornmeal, for dusting
Combine the topping ingredients and set aside.
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, 6 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough forms up and comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of bread flour as necessary, for 10 to 12 minutes. The dough should be smooth and elastic.
RISING Shape the dough into a ball, place in a large oiled bowl, and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise for 30 minutes. Press out all of the air with your fingers and allow to rise again until doubled in size (20 to 30 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down the dough, divide into thirds, roll out under your palms into ropes, and cut each rope in 6 equal pieces. Roll into balls, cover, and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Roll out each ball into a 3½-inch circle. If the dough becomes resistant or shrinks back, allow it to rest and go on to the next piece. When all are rolled, start again with the first. Evenly space the circles on 2 baking pans dusted with flour or cornmeal. Cover with flour-dusted cloths and allow to rise until puffy. Make an indentation in the center of each with 2 fingers of each hand, pressing from the center outward and leaving a 1-inch rim. A shot glass with a 1-inch bottom also works well. Press with a circular motion. Dribble a bit of the topping into the hole and dust lightly with rye flour. Cover and allow to proof until puffed up.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 450°F. Bake without steam for 15 to 20 minutes. The bottoms should show a little color and the tops should just barely begin to brown.
YIELD Makes 18 bialys.
NOTE For vegetable cream cheese, dice up small amounts of radish, cucumber, celery, green onion, or any other vegetables of your choice. Soften the cream cheese with several teaspoons of seltzer water, then mix in the chopped vegetables and slather on top of the bialys. In the bialy topping, you can use minced onion flakes instead of minced fresh onion. Soak them in water for 2 hours or longer, then press the water out before adding to the topping.
Variations
Bialy Flats
Double the size of the rolls by rolling out into 6- to 8-inch circles. Allow to rest, covered, on greased baking pans for about 10 minutes. Flatten, then top the entire circle with the topping. Proof and bake as above, but allow extra baking time for the larger rolls (an additional 5 to 10 minutes).
YIELD Makes 6 to 9 flats.
Bialy Loaves
Triple the size of the rolls by dividing each rope into only 2 pieces. Roll out into hero or torpedo shapes (roll up into pan loafs and taper the ends). Press the tops down into the onion topping and place onion side up on a baking sheet lightly greased and sprinkled with rye flour. Cover and allow to proof, then bake as above, allowing about 10 additional minutes of oven time for the larger rolls.
YIELD Makes 6 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
Combine the topping ingredients and set aside.
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, sugar, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Blend until incorporated. Mix in 4 more cups flour, 2 cups at a time. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 bialys.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
Use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. Combine the topping ingredients and set aside.
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, 6 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that its won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. The dough should be stiffer than normal.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (12 to 15 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 bialys.
Pumpernickel Rolls
Eggs and oil enrich these chewy, earthy-tasting rolls. The variations below—Raisin Pumpernickel Rolls and Pumpernickel Miami Rolls—can become habit-forming. For small dinner rolls, cut the dough balls in half before proofing.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup pumpernickel flour (see Note)
2 to 2½ cups bread flour
1½ teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon caraway seeds (optional)
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing rolls
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the oil, egg, pumpernickel color, sugar, pumpernickel flour, 2 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough forms up and comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of flour as needed, until smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Shape the dough into a ball, place in a large oiled bowl, and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (30 to 40 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down, cut in half, sprinkle with the caraway seeds, and roll each half into a ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Shape into 3 ropes, then cut each rope into 6 pieces. Roll each piece into a round ball. The rolls can be left round or you can taper the ends to a point. Space evenly on 2 greased baking sheets. Proof in a warm, draft-free spot, covered with a damp cloth, until doubled in size. Brush with water or the cornstarch solution, then slash once down the length of each roll.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until hard to the touch when pressed on the sides and colored lightly on the bottom (15 to 20 minutes). These rolls keep for several days and can be reheated. They freeze well baked or unbaked.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.
NOTE Pumpernickel flour, also called medium rye flour, may be available from local supermarkets or bakeries; it’s also available via the Internet.
Variations
Raisin Pumpernickel Rolls
Omit the caraway seeds and add 1 cup raisins (1½ cups in the stand mixer recipe), preferably plumped in hot water for 30 minutes. Knead the raisins into the dough at the end of the kneading time. Shape into round rolls and proceed as above.
Pumpernickel Miami Rolls
Prepare Onion Filling and Topping (this page). Omit the caraway seeds and shape the dough into Miami Rolls (this page). Bake as for Pumpernickel Rolls.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, oil, egg, pumpernickel color, sugar, pumpernickel flour, 1 cup of the bread flour, and the salt. Blend until incorporated. Mix in 1 more cup bread flour and pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ tablespoons vegetable oil
1½ eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons pumpernickel color (see this page)
3 tablespoons sugar
1½ cups pumpernickel flour (see Note above)
3 to 3¾ cups bread flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
1½ tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing rolls
In the mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Add the oil, eggs, pumpernickel color, sugar, pumpernickel flour, 3 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except make 3 ropes and cut each into 9 pieces.
YIELD Makes 27 rolls.
Rye Rolls
Rich rye flavor and a tender bite make these rolls a standout accompaniment to meat and dairy dishes. They can be baked as dinner rolls by cutting the dough balls in half before proofing.
1 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup white rye flour
2 to 2½ cups bread flour
1½ teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon caraway seeds (optional)
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing rolls
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the oil, egg, sugar, rye flour, 2 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough forms up and comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead, adding small amounts of flour as needed. Knead in the caraway seeds. Knead until smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Shape the dough into a ball, place in a large oiled bowl, and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (30 to 40 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down, cut in half, and roll each half into a ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Shape the balls into 3 ropes, then cut each rope into 6 pieces. Roll each into a round ball. The rolls can be left round or you can taper the ends to a point. Space evenly on 2 greased baking sheets. Proof in a warm, draft-free spot, covered with a damp cloth, until doubled in size. Brush with water or cornstarch solution and slash once down the length of each roll.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until the rolls are hard to the touch and colored on the bottom (15 to 20 minutes). These rolls keep for several days and can be reheated. They freeze well baked or unbaked.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.
Variation
Onion Rye Rolls
Omit the caraway seeds. Knead in Onion Filling and Topping (this page) to taste, immediately after the first rise. Sprinkle a small amount of the filling onto the tops of the rolls before baking.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, oil, egg, sugar, rye flour, 2 cups of the bread flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Pulse until the dough tries to ride up on top of the blade. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. Process for 2 to 3 minutes, adding the caraway seeds near the end of the mixing time. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Do not overmix or the dough will get too hot. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 rolls.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
1½ cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ tablespoons vegetable oil
1½ eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons sugar
1½ cups white rye flour
3 to 3¾ cups bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2¼ teaspoons salt
1½ tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Water or cornstarch solution (see this page), for brushing rolls
In the mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Add the oil, eggs, sugar, rye flour, 3 cups of the bread flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More bread flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Add the caraway seeds and run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten. Proceed as Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above, except make 3 ropes and cut each into 9 pieces.
YIELD Makes 27 rolls.
Egg Rolls
The best egg rolls are made from rich Challah dough. Egg rolls add elegance to intimate dinners and festive banquet tables. In the bakery, we made them several times daily and always had large orders to fill from country clubs and caterers.
Prepare a soft Challah dough (this page). Allow to rise until doubled in volume. Punch down and divide into 4 equal pieces (6 pieces for the stand mixer recipe). Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Cut each piece into thirds and roll into balls. Dust lightly with flour, cover, and let rest for 5 minutes. Shape into any of the variations that follow. Then brush with egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water and a pinch of salt) and proof until doubled in size. Brush a second time with egg wash, and bake at 325°F until nicely browned and the bottoms have some color (15 to 20 minutes).
YIELD Makes 12 rolls (18 in the stand mixer recipe).
Variations
Round Knots
On a clean work surface, using little or no flour, roll out each ball into a thin rope 6 to 7 inches long. If they slide around and refuse to be shaped, too much flour has been used. As you keep rolling, the flour will become incorporated.
Wind the rope around 2 fingers. Bring the right end around into a loop with two-thirds of the length crossing over the opposite tip. Bring the end under the loop through the center as if tying a knot. Repeat, going over the loop a second time and into the center. This will produce a round double knot—very professional looking. A small piece about equal to the width of the rope should remain protruding through the center. If too much protrudes, adjust the length of the original loop. Evenly space 6 rolls on a baking sheet. Brush with egg wash and proof until doubled in size and proceed as above.
Garlic Knots
Brush finished Round Knots with melted butter (or vegetable oil for a nondairy recipe) and sprinkle with garlic powder.
Long Figure-Eight Knots
To make these figure-eight knots, roll each ball into a 9- to 10-inch rope. Bring the right end around into a loop with two-thirds of the length crossing over the opposite tip. Bring the long end under and over. The end is brought down into the center.
Birds of Paradise
Roll each ball into a rope 12 inches in length. Bring both ends together. Bring the loop end around and tie a slipknot. When the roll is fully proofed and baked, the free ends resemble a bird’s tail, the knot represents the body, and the protruding tip is the head.
Miami Egg Rolls
Extra-rich Miami Rolls (this page) and Onion Pletzel (this page) can be made from Challah dough. Make up as in Onion Pletzel. Do not brush with egg wash. Bake with steam (see this page).
Miami Monkey Bread
From the recipe for 2 challahs, roll out one strand of dough (about 1 pound) into a rope about 12 inches in length. Cut into 24 pieces of approximately the same size (not to worry if this is not exact; the recipe is very forgiving).

Round Knots

Long Figure-Eight Knots
Shape as directed for Miami Rolls (this page), stretching each piece into a rectangular shape and pressing lightly into the onion filling (a great deal of filling is not required). Remove 1 piece at a time and shape into a miniature Miami Roll. Leave the top plain, clean of any filling; this is important, as the pieces will have to adhere to one another. Line up the rolls on the work surface, 4 rows of 6 rolls each.
Lightly grease an 8- or 9-inch bundt pan with shortening or oil. For the first layer, place 6 rolls evenly spaced, top down (seam side up), in the bottom of the bundt pan. Stagger a second row, top down, on top of and in between the rolls in the first row. Next, begin another row, again staggered but this time with the tops up (seam side down). Build another row the same way, using up the rest of the pieces. Set aside, covered, and allow to rise until doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place on a baking sheet and bake in the center of the oven until lightly browned (30 to 35 minutes).
Cool on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. While still warm, invert a serving dish over the top and, using oven mitts, flip it over, inverting the dish together with the bundt pan. Set it down and carefully remove the bundt pan. Some of the pull-aparts may become fall-aparts, but that’s okay. Carefully brush with water and allow to cool for at least 1 hour, giving the flavors time to meld. These are best when kept in the refrigerator for at least 2 days before serving, allowing time for the flavors to meld and intensify. They will keep for up to a week in a plastic bag. Pull apart with your fingers to eat.
Sticks
To make garlic, onion, poppy, or sesame sticks, roll out the balls into ropes about 12 inches long. Brush with egg wash (see this page) and sprinkle with garlic powder, or Onion Filling and Topping (this page), poppy seeds, or sesame seeds. Arrange the sticks across the width of a greased baking sheet, leaving enough space in between for the sticks to expand. Let rise until puffy, then bake as in Egg Rolls (this page).

Birds of Paradise
Cloverleaf Rolls
Prepare a greased muffin tin. Divide each ball into 3 equal pieces, shape each into 3 small balls, and squeeze them side by side into a muffin cup. Proof, covered, until doubled in size. The dough balls will rise together into a 3-section cup-shaped roll. Brush sparingly with egg wash (see this page); do not allow the egg wash to roll down into the cup. Bake as in Egg Rolls (this page).
Parkerhouse Rolls
A dough this rich is never called for in Parkerhouse dough recipes. We made the rolls this way in the bakery and our customers loved them. Flatten each dough ball; with a thin dowel or the handle of a knife, lengthen and press or roll out a deep indentation across the center of the flattened ball. Brush the elongated center with melted butter (or margarine for a nondairy recipe). Fold over and press the fold to form a crease. Place on a greased baking sheet close enough together so that the rolls touch when they rise. Cover and allow to proof until doubled in size. Brush carefully with melted butter or margarine and bake as in Egg Rolls (this page).
Pan Tostada de Majorca
Many years ago, we visited San Juan, Puerto Rico. In the downtown area there was a park, which would correspond to the town square. Across the street was a small bakery/luncheonette where the locals hung out. My wife and I made it a mandatory breakfast stop each morning. The coffee was strong and the cakes and pastries were delightfully fresh, and although there was a considerable language problem, we managed with a few Spanish words and a lot of pointing. Whenever we visit an area, we try to sniff out the local specialties. We noticed a simple breakfast roll that a majority of patrons were ordering. When I asked the name, they told me it was called Pan Tostada de Majorca. Okay, a Majorcan specialty in San Juan, Puerto Rico; I could accept that. Later, to my embarrassment, I discovered that Majorca was the name of the luncheonette. We never took notice.
To make this Puerto Rican specialty in your own home, split one or two egg rolls in half. Butter both halves and close, sandwich style. Dust the top of the roll with a generous sprinkle of confectioner’s sugar. Place in a sandwich press, panini maker, or waffle iron, pressing down, while allowing to toast. Eat at once, with hot coffee. Repeat as necessary.
Croissants
I always associate croissants with a Continental breakfast. In Europe, they are served with hot coffee, butter, and jam or orange marmalade. Often, an egg, cheese, or cold breakfast meat may accompany the croissant. In France, the breakfast croissant is almost obligatory. At home, in both chic eateries and fast-food palaces, the buttery crescents are often served as sandwiches. When serving croissants at home, put on your best smile and announce, with justifiable pride, voilà.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons skim milk powder
5 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
2 sticks plus 4 tablespoons butter (see Note)
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, milk powder, flour, and salt. Mix thoroughly until the dough forms up and comes away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead for about 5 minutes. Do not knead to develop the gluten. This will be done during Rolling In (see below). Work with plenty of dusting flour, since this will be a soft, sloppy dough that will later be refrigerated to firm it up. A scraper or bun dough cutter held in one hand while kneading is very helpful until the dough becomes cohesive. You may roll in the butter using either the standard method or the professional method; both are described below.
ROLLING IN (STANDARD METHOD) Turn out onto a well-floured pan. Press out into a rectangular shape, cover with oiled plastic wrap or a sheet of oiled parchment paper, and chill in the refrigerator for 45 minutes or more.
Meanwhile, soften the butter just enough to enable it to be molded. Press and roll it out between 2 sheets of waxed paper into a rectangular shape about ¼ inch thick; chill. Ideally, the dough and the butter (called the roll-in) should have approximately the same consistency. This generally means removing the butter from the refrigerator some time before the dough.
Using a rolling pin, roll out the croissant dough into a rectangle about 20 inches by 14 inches. Brush off the excess flour. The butter should be rolled out to two-thirds of the width of the dough, about 13 inches by 12 inches. Remove the waxed paper and place the butter on top of the dough, leaving a 1-inch border so that the butter will not run out when rolled. Fold over the unbuttered third of the dough. Brush off any excess flour, then fold the remaining third over the first 2 folds, just as if folding a letter into thirds. Proceed as in First Roll, below.
ROLLING IN (PROFESSIONAL METHOD) This following method—called spotting in the butter—is an alternate method used by pros. It is actually easier and saves time. Try it for yourself. After mixing the dough, turn it out as described above and place it in the refrigerator for about 45 minutes. Soften the butter. In the bakery we often broke up the butter and softened it in the mixer using the dough hook. Soften only until malleable. Roll out the dough as above. Spot the butter evenly over two-thirds of the dough, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Fold into thirds as above. Cover and refrigerate for about 20 minutes before rolling.
FIRST ROLL Turn the dough so that a long edge faces you and roll out as before. Always roll the dough gently from the center out to each end. If the dough tears and the butter shows through, patch it by patting together with a piece of dough or sprinkling with some flour. Use plenty of dusting flour so that the dough does not stick and tear on the bottom. If the dough tends to stick on the bottom, you can flip the dough over, in half, to scrape the work surface and add dusting flour; flip back, then do the other half. Fold into thirds. Cover on the floured pan and refrigerate to cool for about 45 minutes.
SECOND AND THIRD ROLL Repeat rolling and folding into thirds two more times, letting the dough rest and refrigerating between each roll if the dough becomes too tough to roll.
When finished rolling, you will have 81 alternating layers of butter and dough. Place on a floured baking pan, brush any excess flour off the top, brush with oil, and cover with parchment paper or plastic wrap. Refrigerate the finished dough overnight. Remember, the dough was never allowed to rise after mixing. Refrigerating lets the dough age. It can also be frozen for as long as 1 week, then defrosted in the refrigerator overnight for use the next day.
MAKING UP Cover 3 baking sheets with greased waxed paper or parchment paper. Roll out the dough until ⅛ inch thick, approximately 20 inches long, and 10 inches wide. If the dough sticks, add more flour.
Trim the dough and cut in half horizontally with a pizza knife, bun dough cutter, or a sharp knife. You will have 2 long 5-inch-high strips. Cut the strips into triangles approximately 3-inches wide at the base. (A yardstick is helpful in measuring.) Stretch the wide end of each triangle, widening it further. Roll out each triangle with the point away from you, lengthening the croissant and making it wider. Roll up jelly-roll style from the wide base to the tip, stretching the tip of the triangle slightly while rolling. Bend into a crescent shape with the tip of the triangle tucked under and facing the inside of the crescent. Place on a greased baking pan. The tips can be brought around until they touch or even overlap. Press the tips down with your finger so that they adhere. Leave space between the croissants to allow them to expand. The croissants can be frozen on the pans at this point, then wrapped for future use. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before proofing.
BAKER’S SECRET
First, roll out the dough to the desired width, 20 inches. Then begin rolling until 10 inches long. Do not tear the dough. When it becomes difficult to roll, hold the rolling pin on a diagonal and roll from one end to the other, then roll on the opposite diagonal, then return to rolling straight.


Cover the crescents and allow them to rise slowly in a dry, warm area until doubled in size (1 to 2 hours). Brush with egg wash.
BAKER’S SECRET
Allow the egg wash to dry, then brush a second time for a high gloss.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 450°F. Bake until evenly browned (15 to 20 minutes). Make sure that the bottoms are well colored. Serve warm or at room temperature.
YIELD Makes 24 to 27 croissants.
NOTE In the bakery, we used half butter, half shortening, for a flakier croissant.
Variations
Chocolate Croissants
Roll out as for Croissants, then cut into 4- by 6-inch rectangles. Brush the edges with the egg wash or water. Place about 1 tablespoon of semisweet chocolate bits in a line ½ inch from the short edge. Fold the top over the chocolate, and roll up the dough, ending with the seam centered on the bottom. Cut a horizontal slit in the center. Proceed as above.
In my bakery, we used bittersweet Belgian chocolate specially formulated with a low melting point for croissants. When served warm, the filling had a warm, melted texture. In place of the chocolate bits in this recipe, try using a bar of the best quality bittersweet chocolate you can find. If necessary, chop it into bits in a food processor or blender. For a less expensive chocolate I find Nestlé brand semisweet morsels on a par with many finer chocolates.
Cheese Croissants
Cream Cheese Filling
8 ounces cream cheese
1½ tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter, softened
1 egg, lightly beaten
1½ tablespoons flour
Cream the cheese, sugar, and butter until completely blended. Add the egg and flour and mix until smooth.
Roll out the finished Croissant dough ¼ inch thick instead of ⅛ inch thick, then cut into 4-inch squares. Brush the edges with egg wash. Drop 1 generous tablespoon cream cheese filling into the center of each square. Take 2 opposite corners and stretch slightly. Form an open pocket by folding the ends over the center. Press the tip down hard to seal. The other ends can be left open, or closed by bringing the remaining ends over the center. Press down to seal, forming a neat little square or pocket. Press hard so that the last end does not open up when baked. Proceed as above.
Cheese Croissants can also be made as in Chocolate Croissants. A line of cheese filling is formed in place of the chocolate. A small amount of fruit or jam can be placed on top of the cheese. Cut 3 vertical slashes in the top to allow for expansion.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1¾ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, sugar, milk powder, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until blended. Add the remaining 3 cups flour, 1 cup at a time, and pulse only until thoroughly mixed and the dough begins to come away from the sides of the bowl. Process or pulse for 2 minutes. Do not mix to develop the gluten. This will be done during Rolling In. Proceed as in Rolling In, First Roll, Second and Third Roll, Making Up, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 24 to 27 croissants.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
3 tablespoons sugar
4½ tablespoons skim milk powder
7½ cups bread flour
1½ tablespoons salt
4 sticks less 2 tablespoons butter (see Note above)
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
In the mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Add the sugar, milk powder, flour, and salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Mix only until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 5 minutes. It is not necessary to fully develop the gluten. This will be accomplished during the Rolling In. Proceed as in Rolling In, First Roll, Second and Third Roll, Making Up, and Baking, above, except shape into 36 croissants.
YIELD Makes 36 croissants.
Italian Breadsticks
Place a basket of these old-fashioned breadsticks—long, knobby, and crisp—next to a steaming bowl of pasta. What could be more Italian? One batch will yield 20 fat, crusty, foot-long sticks.
1 cup warm water
½ package active dry yeast (1 heaping teaspoon)
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil
2½ to 3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or semolina flour, dusting
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, oil, 2½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead with a turn, fold, push motion, adding more flour in small amounts if the dough is sticky. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes).
Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume.
SHAPING Punch down the dough, form into a rectangular shape, cover, and let rest for about 10 minutes.
On a floured surface, roll the dough into a long rectangle about ¼ inch thick. Sprinkle lightly with cornmeal. With a pizza knife (wheel knife) or a thin blade and a yardstick, cut 20 sticks measuring about 5 inches by 4 inches (inexpensive handheld noodle cutters, available in cookware shops, also do a good job). Stretch or roll each stick to about 12 inches in length and place across the width of cornmeal-dusted baking sheets. See Variations, below. Leave enough space between each stick to allow them to puff up and double in size in the oven. Bake immediately without allowing to rise.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for approximately 20 minutes. It may be necessary to turn each stick over for the last 5 to 10 minutes to get an even color all around. If you are using tiles or an oven stone, turn over directly onto the stone for a crustier stick.
YIELD Makes 20 breadsticks.
Variations
Numerous variations of breadsticks can be made with different toppings. Use your imagination. Here are several I like.
Sesame Seed Breadsticks
Sprinkle sesame seeds over the work surface and the top of the dough before rolling out.
Garlic Breadsticks
Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon pure garlic powder on top of the dough before rolling. In the bakery, we used granulated garlic. If you want to use garlic salt, use ½ teaspoon and reduce the salt in the recipe by ¼ teaspoon.
Cheese Breadsticks
Add ¼ cup grated hard Italian cheese, such as Parmesan or Romano, to the dough before kneading. Try combining two such cheeses. Reduce the salt in the recipe by ¼ teaspoon.
Olive Oil and Rosemary Breadsticks
Roll out the dough on a work surface that has been brushed with olive oil. Brush the top of the dough with more olive oil and sprinkle with minced fresh or dried rosemary.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1 cup warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
¾ cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, sugar, oil, 2½ cups of the flour (1 cup at a time), and the salt. Mix to combine. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and rides up on top of the blade, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. Process or pulse for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overmix. Turn out the dough and knead into a ball. Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 20 breadsticks.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
2 cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup olive oil or vegetable oil
5 to 7 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Cornmeal or semolina flour, for dusting
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, oil, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Run at first speed until the dough forms up on the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl (8 to 10 minutes). You can use second speed for the last few minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume. When fully risen, cut the dough in half. Refrigerate or freeze one piece of dough, since there will be too much to handle at one time. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape each half into 20 breadsticks.
YIELD Makes 40 breadsticks.
Variation
Grissini
These very thin, crispy breadsticks, known as grissini, have appeared in restaurants and markets of late. Here is a method for making them at home with professional-looking results. The procedure requires a hand-turned pasta-making machine, which is available at cookware stores and not too expensive. You can use it to make your own fresh pasta, too.
Prepare the dough using the hand-mixed Italian Breadsticks recipe.
SHAPING Proceed as in the breadstick recipe above. Roll the dough into a rectangle as described. Then cut into 5 crosswise strips and cover with a cloth. Have 2 or more cornmeal-dusted baking sheets ready for use. Dust the dough lightly with cornmeal or semolina, top and bottom, and run one strip through the pasta machine with the rollers set at the widest opening, approximately ¼ inch. Dust again, then roll through the wide noodle cutters (fettuccine cutters). Place the strips on the work surface, dust once more, carefully separate the strips, and arrange them across the width of the baking sheet, leaving enough space between the strips so that they can puff up in the oven. Trim as necessary. The scrap pieces can be brushed off, kneaded together, and rerolled. Bake immediately without allowing to rise.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake until barely browned (about 10 minutes). Watch carefully so that the grissini do not burn. Turn the pans once during baking. Prepare the next baking sheet while the first is in the oven. The baking sheets cool quickly and can be reused when cool enough to touch.
Zatar Herbed Rolls
Zatar, more or less unknown to Americans, is quite common in many parts of the Middle East. There are two types of zatar: one is an herb, a type of marjoram; the other an aromatic blend of sumac, thyme, and marjoram. Use either one or the other; the solo herb may be difficult to find.
I first discovered zatar in the Holy Land, where the blend was used to add an exotic flavor to a dish of broiled lamb. Some time later I came upon it in Jaffa being used as a topping for rolls in an open-air Arab bakery. The oven was actually outside on the street. The bakers told me that the bakery was more than four hundred years old. Some young hikers had picked fresh zatar in the hills and brought it to the bakers, who, in the space of 15 to 20 minutes, proudly produced fresh zatar-topped pita for them. Zatar can be found in Mideastern ethnic markets; if used in this recipe, omit the sumac, thyme, and marjoram, and replace with 1½ teaspoons if mixing by hand or in a food processor and 2¼ teaspoons if using a stand mixer. The topping in this recipe is also delicious on Pita (this page) and Naan (this page and this page); just brush with water or oil and sprinkle it on before baking.
2 cups warm water
2 packages active dry yeast (1½ tablespoons)
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil, plus more for brushing
½ teaspoon sumac
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried marjoram
5 to 6 cups bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Dried zatar or marjoram, for topping
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, oil, sumac, thyme, marjoram, 5 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Add more flour ¼ cup at a time if the dough remains sticky.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). Place the dough in a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down the dough and divide in half. Shape into 2 balls, cover, and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Roll out with your palms into 2 long ropes 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Cut each rope into 8 equal pieces and shape each into a ball. (If desired, each piece can be halved once more to make 16 dinner rolls.) Cover and let rest for 5 minutes.
With a wooden dowel or stick and using little or no flour, roll out each ball into a disk about 4 to 6 inches wide (2 to 3 inches for small dinner rolls). Evenly space them on lightly greased baking sheets, leaving room between them for expansion. Brush the tops with water or oil and sprinkle with the zatar. Cover and proof until puffy and about doubled in height. Use the tips of your fingers to make several deep indentations in the center of each roll.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake with steam (see this page) until golden brown (about 15 minutes). Turn the baking sheets once, halfway through the baking process, to ensure even color. Let cool on the baking sheets. Serve warm or freeze for future use.
YIELD Makes 16 rolls or 32 dinner rolls.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 2 cups warm water use:
½ cup warm water
1½ cups ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, sugar, oil, sumac, thyme, marjoram, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Blend until incorporated. Add 3 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic and fully develop the gluten.
Transfer to a clean, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (about 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 16 rolls or 32 dinner rolls.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
3 cups warm water
3 packages active dry yeast (2 heaping tablespoons)
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil
¾ teaspoon dried sumac
¾ teaspoon dried thyme
¾ teaspoon dried marjoram
7½ to 9 cups bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
Dried zatar or marjoram, for topping
In the mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Add the sugar, oil, sumac, thyme, marjoram, 7½ cups of the flour, and the salt. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too soft, add more flour ¼ cup at a time.
Remove and scrape down the beater and replace with the dough hook. Run at first speed for about 8 to 10 minutes, adding more flour if necessary. You can run at second speed for the last 2 minutes to strengthen the gluten.
Turn out into an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size (30 to 45 minutes). Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except form 3 ropes and cut each into 8 pieces (16 pieces for dinner rolls).
YIELD Makes 24 rolls or 48 dinner rolls.
Sweet Rolls
In many parts of the country, sweet rolls or buns, called schnecken, are served along with bread or rolls during a meal. I always approve of serving dessert first; it’s often the best part of the meal.
1¼ cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
½ cup sugar
4 tablespoons butter or margarine, softened
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
4 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
Melted butter or margarine, for brushing
Ground cinnamon, for dusting
Brown sugar or cinnamon sugar (see this page), for sprinkling
½ cup raisins, or more to taste, for sprinkling
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash (optional)
Icing (optional)
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine (optional)
⅛ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Hot water, as needed
In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to soften. Add the sugar, butter, eggs, milk powder, 4 cups of the flour, and the salt. Stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary. The dough should be much softer than for bread.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and the gluten fully developed (8 to 10 minutes).
RISING Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl. Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (about 35 to 40 minutes).
SHAPING Punch down, shape into a long, narrow rectangle, cover, and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Roll out into a rectangle 24 inches long and about ⅛ inch thick. Brush the dough clean of any flour, then brush the top with the melted butter or margarine and sprinkle with a light dusting of the ground cinnamon. A little goes a long way. In addition sprinkle with the brown sugar or cinnamon sugar and the raisins. Roll up jelly-roll style, and press to seal the seam. Cut into 1-inch slices and place the slices on a greased or buttered baking sheet close enough that they will touch when they rise. Cover and proof until doubled in size. Brush with the egg wash if the optional icing is not desired.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake until nicely browned and the bottom has an even color (20 to 30 minutes). Let cool on a wire rack.
ICING In the meanwhile, make the icing. Combine the confectioners’ sugar, melted butter, and vanilla. Mix in hot water, a little at a time, until it’s smooth and spreadable. Keep warm until needed. Apply the warm icing before the rolls are completely cooled.
YIELD Makes 24 sweet rolls.
Sticky Buns
1 cup chopped pecans
Topping
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine
½ cup honey
Corn syrup, as needed
Halved or chopped pecans, for sprinkling
Roll out and fill as for Sweet Rolls (omit the raisins if desired), then sprinkle with the pecans. Roll up jelly-roll style. Line a greased baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Grease with the softened butter or margarine.
TOPPING Combine the brown sugar, butter, and honey, and add enough corn syrup to make the topping spreadable. Distribute a thin coating of topping over the pan and sprinkle additional halved or chopped pecans over the topping. Place the rolls close together on the baking sheet. Cover and proof until doubled in size. Proceed as in Baking, above. While still hot, invert into a tray or another baking pan to serve. Carefully peel off the paper.
To make individual sticky buns, cut the Sweet Rolls dough into 1-inch slices. Place them in muffin tins greased with the Sticky Bun topping. A pecan half or chopped pecans can be placed on the topping before inserting the dough. Bake as above and invert while still warm. In the bakery, we made mini buns using miniature cupcake pans.
Rum Buns
In many parts of the South, rum buns are frequently served. In the recipe for Sweet Rolls, substitute ¼ cup dark rum for ¼ cup of the warm water, then proceed as above. Frost with rum-flavored icing made by adding 2 tablespoons dark rum to the icing recipe above. The frosting should be applied while the rolls are still warm. In the bakery, we used Meyer’s brand dark rum.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Instead of 1¼ cups warm water use:
¼ cup warm water
1 cup ice water
In the work bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water; pulse to dissolve. Add the ice water, sugar, butter, eggs, milk powder, 2 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until smooth. Add 2 more cups flour, 1 cup at a time. Pulse until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. More flour can be added ¼ cup at a time if the dough is too soft, but bear in mind that it should be softer than bread dough. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately, then knead together by hand. Process for about 2 minutes. Do not allow the dough to overheat. Extra kneading by hand is sometimes necessary to make the dough elastic and fully develop the gluten. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 24 sweet rolls.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER AND DOUGH HOOK
2 cups warm water
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
¾ cup sugar
6 tablespoons butter or margarine
3 large eggs
½ cup skim milk powder (optional)
6 to 6¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Melted butter or margarine, for brushing
Ground cinnamon, for dusting
Brown sugar or cinnamon sugar (see this page), for sprinkling
¾ cup raisins, or more to taste, for sprinkling
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash (optional)
Icing (optional)
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
3 tablespoons melted butter or margarine (optional)
Scant ¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Hot water, as needed
In the mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, butter, eggs, milk powder, 6 cups of the flour, and the salt. Mix until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, adding more flour ¼ cup at a time if necessary.
Remove and scrape down the beater and insert the dough hook. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes at first speed. More flour can be added in small amounts if required, but bear in mind that this dough should be softer than bread dough. The dough should be smooth and elastic. Proceed as in Rising, Shaping, Baking, and Icing, above, except shape into 36 rolls.
YIELD Makes 36 sweet rolls.
Quick Whole Wheat Rolls with Raisins and Walnuts
Because these rolls use baking soda for leavening, they can be whipped up from start to finish in 30 minutes or less. They have a county-style look and go well with most foods. Raisins or walnuts can be omitted according to taste. For a quick start, preheat the oven to 375°F before you begin mixing.
2½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
½ to 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons sugar
¼ cup shortening or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
1 egg, beaten
½ cup raisins
½ cup chopped toasted walnuts (see this page)
In a large bowl, combine the flours and sugar. Cut or rub in the shortening until the mixture feels coarse. Add the baking soda and salt and gently stir, then add the buttermilk and egg. Stir, then add the raisins and walnuts and mix until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated.
Lightly dust your hands with flour. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead lightly until smooth.
SHAPING Scrape down the work surface, dust with flour, and roll out the dough into a rectangular shape about ½ inch thick. Cut to form 4 strips horizontally and 5 vertically. Dust or sift flour over the top, then evenly space the pieces of dough on a lightly greased or oiled baking sheet.
BAKING Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake until browned (15 to 20 minutes). The crust should feel firm. If the center feels soft, continue baking for 5 minutes more.
YIELD Makes 20 rolls.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
In the work bowl, combine the flours, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Add the shortening and pulse several times until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Combine the buttermilk and the beaten egg and, with the machine running, slowly add the egg mixture. Run for a minute or less, just long enough for a smooth dough.
Turn out onto a floured surface, flatten the dough, and spread the raisins and walnuts over the top. Cut the dough in half and place one half on top of the other. Flatten the dough again to distribute the raisins and walnuts. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 20 rolls.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2 cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
5 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons sugar
½ cup shortening or vegetable oil
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped toasted walnuts (see this page)
Place the buttermilk in the mixing bowl and add the flours, sugar, shortening, baking soda, salt, and eggs. Pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until smooth. Add the raisins and walnuts and mix only long enough to incorporate. If they are overmixed, they will be crushed and their color will run into the dough. If it takes more than a few turns, knead them in by hand on the work surface. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except make 40 rolls.
YIELD Makes 40 rolls.
CHAPTER EIGHT
Biscuits and Muffins
Say “biscuits” and I think of the South where I spent several years of my youth. Brown’s Hotel, Louisville, Kentucky, the 1950s—grits, shirred or basted eggs, and hot biscuits right out of the oven. The Blue Boar Cafeteria—fried chicken, biscuits with gravy, okra. Although some are undeniably rich (and perhaps that is part of the allure), there are times when nothing complements a meal as well as a steaming-hot, flaky biscuit. Many believe that making biscuits is complex or requires rare skill, but they are actually fairly easy and quick to make. The recipes below will help demystify this old-fashioned mainstay.
Muffins are even simpler to prepare. Versatile and ubiquitous, they seem to be enjoying a new following as dietary trends increasingly favor whole grains, fruits, and anything low in sodium and fat. Included in this chapter are old standards, modern favorites, and some original recipes. For large yields, double or triple the recipes. Mix with a stand mixer if desired. When mixing muffins, it’s usually best to combine the dry ingredients, then add the liquids and mix only until the flour becomes moistened. Do not overmix, as this will make the muffins tough; the batter should appear lumpy. In general, fill muffin tins two-thirds full for regular muffins; fill to the top for jumbo muffins. An ice cream scoop is an excellent tool for dropping out muffins. Add a little water to any empty cups to prevent scorching. It’s never a bad idea to place the muffin tin on a baking sheet in the oven, just in case any muffins spill over the top.
Basic Biscuits
These biscuits are quick and easy to make and are best served hot right out of the oven. Biscuits are so easy to mix that it does not warrant using the processor and cleaning up. It is also too easy to overmix biscuits in the machine. And although biscuits can be successfully prepared in a stand mixer, the same caveats apply as for the food processor. The best biscuits are mixed by hand in small batches and served right away. For large batches, you can multiply the recipe by three or four times and use a stand mixer, but be careful to mix as little as possible. If necessary, finish kneading by hand.
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon shortening
⅔ to ¾ cup milk
Shortening or vegetable oil, for greasing pan
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut or rub in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the milk and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough begins to come together.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface, knead a few turns, and pat out to a 4-inch thickness. The less kneading, the more tender the biscuits.
Cut into 12 rounds using a 2-inch biscuit cutter or a drinking glass. Place on a greased baking sheet or iron skillet and bake until the tops are nicely browned and the bottoms have color (10 to 15 minutes). Serve warm.
YIELD Makes 12 biscuits.
Variations
Rich Biscuits
Increase the shortening to 2 to 3 tablespoons.
Drop Biscuits
Increase the milk to 1 to 1½ cups, which makes the dough thin enough to drop out by the spoonful onto a greased baking sheet. Bake until lightly browned and the bottoms have color (8 to 10 minutes).
BAKER’S SECRET
For flakier biscuits, double the shortening and leave larger lumps of shortening when rubbing in.
Onion Cheese Biscuits
These sophisticated biscuits have an unusual flavor. Try them at cocktail time. They are good served with wine.
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup shortening
¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese (about 3 ounces)
¼ cup minced green onion (about 1 green onion)
⅔ to ¾ cup milk
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut or rub in the shortening and cheese until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the onion and enough milk to make a smooth dough.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and pat out to a ½-inch thickness. The less kneading, the more tender the biscuits. Cut into 12 rounds with a 2-inch biscuit cutter or a kitchen glass, or cut half size for 24 cocktail biscuits. Place on an ungreased baking sheet or an iron skillet. Bake until lightly browned and firm to the touch and the bottoms have color (10 to 12 minutes). Serve warm.
YIELD Makes 12 biscuits or 24 cocktail biscuits.
Variation
Onion Poppy Seed Biscuits
Add 2 tablespoons poppy seeds to the recipe above. Roll out into a rectangle about ½ inch thick. With a wheel knife or sharp blade, cut into small squares or rectangles. Brush twice with egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt). Slip onto a baking sheet with a spatula and bake as above. Makes about 24 biscuits.
Angel Biscuits
There is a well-known soul food restaurant in New York that makes the most heavenly biscuits (only on Sunday). I never could get the folks there to part with the recipe. Although these treats tasted like baking powder biscuits, they were so light that they seemed to float right up to your lips. Another baker who was my guest for Sunday brunch was sure that there was yeast in the dough, which would account for their being so light. After much searching, we determined that they were a version of angel biscuits, found throughout the South.
Though there are many versions of this biscuit, basically the recipes are all very much alike, mainly with differences in kneading and rising. The method that follows is the one I like best. It is the quickest and in my opinion the best-tasting one. The dough can be refrigerated for 1 week or frozen for months. You need bake only as much as you can use. More can be ready in 15 minutes anytime you wish. It’s like having a hot biscuit factory in your refrigerator. This dough must be made up and refrigerated overnight before its initial use. The longer it stays in the refrigerator, the better it becomes. Defrost frozen biscuit dough overnight in the refrigerator.
4½ to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
¾ cup shortening
1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
In a large bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Cut in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the yeast, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, sifting the mixture through your fingertips to combine. Add the buttermilk and stir until incorporated. Do not knead. The dough will be heavy and sticky but will become workable when thoroughly chilled. Refrigerate the dough overnight in a covered bowl or plastic bag.
BAKER’S SECRET
Here’s a gem! When the dough is prepared, form it into 12-inch ropes, about 2 inches in diameter. Lightly roll up in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. In the next 7 to 10 days, whenever you want to bake biscuits, cut off ½-inch rounds, as many as are desired, place on a baking sheet, and bake as below. At home we do them in the toaster oven. The rolls may also be frozen. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight.
CUTTING The next day or whenever you’re ready to make biscuits, preheat the oven to 400°F. Take out as much dough as you need and roll out on a lightly floured surface to a thickness of about 4 inch. Cut out with a biscuit cutter or a glass. The scraps can be rerolled and cut again.
BAKING Place the biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet and bake immediately (without proofing) until lightly browned (12 to 15 minutes). Serve warm with lots of butter or jam.
YIELD Makes 36 biscuits.
Variation
Zucchini Biscuits
Add ½ cup grated zucchini and 2½ tablespoons sugar, and reduce the milk by a ½ cup.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
(It is less work to make this by hand, as above, and eliminate cleaning the machine.) In the work bowl, combine the flour, sugar, yeast, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the shortening and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. With the machine running, add the buttermilk in a light stream. Stop as soon as all the liquid is absorbed. The dough will be wet and heavy. If the machine strains and threatens to stop, divide the dough in half and process each half separately. Do not knead. Remove the dough and place in the refrigerator overnight in a covered bowl or plastic bag. Proceed as in Cutting and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 36 biscuits.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
6¾ to 7½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
4½ tablespoons sugar
1½ packages active dry yeast (1 heaping tablespoon)
1½ tablespoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons baking soda
1½ teaspoons salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons shortening
3 cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
In the mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, yeast, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the shortening and pulse with the on/off switch until the mixture resembles coarse meal. With the mixer running, add the buttermilk a little at a time. Stop as soon as all the liquid is absorbed. The dough will be wet and heavy. Avoid kneading. Remove the dough and place in the refrigerator overnight in a covered bowl or a plastic bag. Proceed as in Cutting and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 54 biscuits.
Tea Biscuits
Tea biscuits are a bakery shop standard. Most biscuits are best when served warm, whereas tea biscuits can stand out on a bakery shop counter all day and still be wonderful to eat. They have a pleasant, sweet flavor and are best when eaten as a snack or after dinner rather than as an accompaniment to a meal. These biscuits can be kept for several days in a bread box or a plastic bag. When frozen, they can be reheated (wrapped in aluminum foil) or lightly toasted. I like them best when served with jam or marmalade and hot tea or coffee. When made without currants or raisins, the biscuits can be split and filled with berries, topped with whipped cream, and served as New England–style strawberry shortcake.
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
1½ tablespoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional) or nondairy powdered creamer
1 cup cold water
1 egg, beaten
¾ cup dried currants or raisins (optional)
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the baking powder, baking soda, salt, and milk powder and gently stir to distribute. Add the water and egg, stir, then add the currants and stir until all the liquid is absorbed.
Lightly dust your hands with flour. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead only until it all comes together. The less kneading, the more tender the biscuits.
CUTTING On a clean, floured surface, press or roll out the dough ½ to ¾ inch thick. Cut out with a 2½-inch biscuit cutter or a glass. Lightly knead the scraps together, roll out again, and cut more biscuits. You should have 9 to 12 biscuits.
BAKER’S SECRET
Save one-fourth of the freshly kneaded dough before rolling out. Incorporate with the scraps for a more tender second set of biscuits.
BAKING Space the rounds evenly on a lightly greased baking sheet and brush the tops with the beaten egg mixture. Let dry for a few minutes, then brush a second time. Bake until well browned (about 15 to 20 minutes).
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 biscuits.
Whole Wheat Tea Biscuits
Substitute 2 cups whole wheat flour (preferably stone-ground) for 2 cups of the white flour (3 cups in the stand mixer recipe). Add 1 tablespoon sugar (1½ tablespoons in the stand mixer recipe).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In the work bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and milk powder. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Combine the water and beaten egg, and with the machine running, slowly add all of the liquid. Run the machine only long enough for the dough to come together.
Turn out onto a floured surface. Add the currants, kneading them in as little as possible. Proceed as in Cutting and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 biscuits.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup sugar
3 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional) or nondairy powdered creamer
½ cup unsalted butter or margarine
2 cups cold water
2 eggs, beaten
1½ cups dried currants or raisins (optional)
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and milk powder. Add the butter and mix until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the water and eggs. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix only until the dough becomes cohesive. Turn out onto a floured surface. Add the currants, kneading them in as little as possible. Proceed as in Cutting and Baking, above, except cut into 18 to 24 biscuits.
YIELD Makes 18 to 24 biscuits.
Scones
Traditional British fare, these rich biscuits are served at teatime with clotted cream (a good substitute is crème fraîche) or just buttered and spread with marmalade. At home we use Dundee brand orange marmalade from Scotland, made with Seville oranges, Chivers brand conserve, or British ginger marmalade (it has a bite). Richer and less sweet than tea biscuits, scones are best served warm. They can be frozen and reheated. Try this recipe using yogurt in place of milk or cream. When baked, the resulting texture is magic. This is my personal favorite.
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (see Variations)
¼ cup sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, softened
1½ tablespoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom, preferably freshly ground (optional)
1 cup light cream, evaporated skim milk, or plain yogurt
1 egg, lightly beaten
¾ cup dried currants or raisins (optional)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Cut or rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cardamom, stir gently, then add the cream, egg, and currants and mix only until the liquid is absorbed.
Lightly dust your hands with flour. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead only until it all comes together. The less kneading, the more tender the biscuits.
CUTTING On a clean, floured surface, press or roll the dough ½ to ¾ inch thick. Cut out with a 2½-inch biscuit cutter or a glass. Lightly knead the scraps together, roll out again, and cut more scones. You should have 9 to 12 scones.
BAKER’S SECRET
Save one-fourth of the freshly kneaded dough before rolling out. Incorporate with the scraps for a more tender second set of scones.
BAKING Space the rounds evenly on a lightly greased baking sheet. Bake until lightly browned and the top does not yield to light pressure from a fingertip (about 15 minutes). Check that the bottom has color.
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 scones.
NOTE For scones that spread slightly in the oven, add an extra ¼ cup cream (½ cup in the stand mixer recipe).
For whole wheat scones, substitute 1 cup whole wheat flour (preferably stone-ground) for 1 cup of the white flour. (In the stand mixer recipe, substitute 2 cups whole wheat for 2 cups of the white.) In Cutting, above, separate the dough into 2 balls (4 balls in the stand mixer recipe). Roll or press out into ½-inch-thick rounds. Place on lightly greased baking sheets and cut each round into 8 wedges. Bake as above.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In the work bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cardamom. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Combine the cream and beaten egg, and with the machine running, slowly add all of the liquid. Pulse only long enough for the dough to come together.
Turn out onto a floured surface. Add the currants, kneading them in as little as possible. Proceed as in Cutting and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 scones.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (see Variations above)
½ cup sugar
3 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground cardamom, preferably freshly ground (optional)
¾ cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened
2 cups light cream, evaporated skim milk, or plain yogurt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1½ cups dried currants or raisins (optional)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cardamom. Add the butter and mix until the dough resembles coarse meal. Add the cream and eggs. Pulse with the on/off switch until the dry ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix only until the dough becomes cohesive. Turn out onto a floured surface. Add the currants, kneading them in as little as possible. Proceed as in Cutting and Baking, above, except you should have a total of 24 rounds.
YIELD Makes 24 scones.
Singing Hinny
This is a colorful British name for an offbeat scone. A small amount of rice flour makes for an unusual flavor. Literally made up in minutes, these scones can be eaten at breakfast with butter and jam. They also go well with stews. Serve warm.
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup rice flour (see Note)
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt (optional)
2 tablespoons shortening
1 cup milk, evaporated skim milk, or light cream
1 cup dried currants or raisins (optional)
In a large bowl, combine the flours, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut in the shortening until the mixture is grainy. Add the milk and currants and mix only until incorporated.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead once or twice. Cut the dough in half and roll out each half into a circle ¼ inch thick. Score into 8 pie-shaped wedges. Prick holes all over with a fork, then transfer to a greased skillet or griddle.
Bake on the stovetop over medium heat. Turn and bake until browned on both sides.
YIELD Makes 16 wedges.
NOTE Rice flour can be purchased in Asian markets and natural foods stores. You can also grind your own in a spice mill or blender. Grind very fine.
Variation
Replace the milk with 1 cup buttermilk or yogurt and add 4 teaspoon baking soda.
Basic Muffins
This is a quick basic muffin recipe with four variations. After a bit of practice, try your own variations.
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons shortening, butter, or margarine, softened
1 egg, beaten
¾ cup milk
Streusel Topping (recipe follows)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut in or rub in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg and milk and mix only until incorporated. Drop out into greased or buttered muffin tins, filling each cup about two-thirds full. Spread with the streusel.
Bake until browned (15 to 20 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when gently touched with a fingertip.
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 muffins.
Variations
Raisin Muffins
Fold in ½ to ¾ cup raisins.
Chocolate Chip Muffins
Fold in ½ cup semisweet or sweet chocolate bits.
Nut Muffins
Fold in ½ cup coarsely chopped nuts.
Streusel Topping
This sweet, crumblike mixture is used to top muffins and coffee cakes before baking.
⅔ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, cut up
2 tablespoons vegetable shortening
In a medium bowl, mix or rub together all of the ingredients until the mixture resembles pea-sized or larger granules; do not cream. If the streusel appears to be too moist, mix in several teaspoons more flour. Sprinkle the streusel on top of the batter and bake as directed in the recipe.
YIELD Makes enough to top 9 to 12 muffins.
Peach Muffins with Streusel Topping
Brown sugar, cinnamon, and the additional butter enrich the flavor of these muffins.
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1½ tablespoons skim milk powder
4 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup shortening, butter, or margarine, softened
1 egg, beaten ½ cup water
1¼ cups coarsely diced peaches (fresh or canned) Streusel Topping (this page)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugars, milk powder, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. Cut in or rub in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg and water and mix only until incorporated. Fold in the peaches. Drop into greased muffin tins, filling each cup about two-thirds full. Spread with the streusel.
Bake until browned and the center springs back when gently pressed with the fingers (15 to 20 minutes).
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 muffins.
BAKER’S SECRET
Add 1 tablespoon of water to each empty cup to prevent scorching.
Variations
Apple Pecan Muffins
Substitute ¾ cup diced fresh cooking applies (such as Granny Smith) for the peaches and add ½ cup coarsely chopped pecans. Spread with Streusel Topping with additional pecans mixed in, or top with pecans and dust with granulated sugar or coarse crystal sugar.
Berry Muffins with Streusel
Substitute fresh or frozen berries for the peaches.
Blueberry Muffins
At home, we freeze blueberries and prepare these delicious muffins year-round. We do the same with cranberries.
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1½ tablespoons skim milk powder
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
1 egg, beaten
Juice and grated zest of ½ lemon
½ cup water
¾ cup blueberries, preferably fresh, dredged lightly with flour
Granulated or confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugars, milk powder, baking powder, and salt. Cut in or rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg, lemon juice and zest, and water and mix only until incorporated. Fold in the berries. Drop into greased muffin tins, filling each cup about two-thirds full. Dust with granulated sugar.
Bake until browned and the center springs back when gently pressed with the fingers (15 to 20 minutes).
YIELD Makes 9 muffins.
Variation
Cranberry Muffins
Substitute 1 cup cranberries (fresh or frozen) for the blueberries. You can freeze cranberries in plastic bags for use throughout the year. Simply place them in the freezer in the plastic pouch in which they are sold.
Rich Blueberry Muffins
These are somewhat sweeter than the simpler muffins. They derive additional flavor and a delicate texture from the addition of yogurt and sour cream.
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup unsalted butter or margarine, or ¼ cup unsalted butter and ¼ cup vegetable oil
2 eggs
½ cup yogurt (low-fat is fine) or nondairy sour cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¾ to 1 cup blueberries, preferably fresh, dredged lightly with flour
Confectioners’ sugar or coarse sugar, for topping (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut in or rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the eggs, yogurt, and vanilla, and mix only until absorbed. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then mix a bit more. Add the blueberries and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, filling each cup about two-thirds full. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.
BAKING Bake until browned and the center springs back when gently pressed with the fingers (15 to 20 minutes).
Place the tin on a wire rack, cover lightly with a clean kitchen towel, and cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then gently turn the muffins out onto the rack to cool completely. The muffins may be stored in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for several days. They also freeze well for up to 4 weeks. To thaw, place in the refrigerator overnight, or microwave for no longer than 30 seconds.
YIELD Makes about 12 muffins.
Variation
Chocolate Chip Muffins
Substitute semisweet chocolate chips for the blueberries.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
½ cup unsalted butter or margarine, room temperature
½ cup vegetable oil
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 cup yogurt (low-fat is fine) or nondairy sour cream
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1½ to 2 cups fresh blueberries, preferably fresh, dredged lightly with flour
Confectioners’ sugar or coarse sugar, for topping (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the mixing bowl, cream the butter, oil, and sugar. Add the eggs, yogurt, and vanilla and mix until combined, then add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix by pulsing with the on/off switch to combine. Do not overmix; it is okay if the batter is slightly lumpy. When halfway through the mixing, carefully scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then finish mixing. Add the blueberries and fold into the batter.
Drop out the batter into greased muffin tins, filling each cup about three-quarters full. Dust with confectioners’ sugar. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 24 muffins.
Blueberry Corn Muffins
These seem to be the most popular at our house. They are enriched with buttermilk and the grit of the cornmeal together with a burst of fruit flavor from the berries amuses the palate.
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
⅓ cup sugar
2½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons shortening, butter, or margarine, softened
1 egg, beaten
1 cup buttermilk
1½ cups blueberries, fresh or frozen
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut in or rub in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg and buttermilk and mix only until incorporated. Dredge the blueberries in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased or buttered muffin tins, filling each cup two-thirds full.
Bake until browned and the center springs back when gently pressed with the fingers (15 to 20 minutes).
YIELD Makes 9 to 12 muffins.
Rich Bran Muffins
These muffins are better than cake. Baking them in paper-lined mini-muffin tins turns brunch or breakfast into party time. Serve with miniature corn muffins for a decorative table. Unused batter can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week and muffins baked as desired. For a nondairy version, omit the milk powder.
¾ cup vegetable oil
½ cup beaten eggs (about 2 or 3 eggs)
¼ cup beaten yolks (about 3 yolks)
½ cup water
¾ cup sugar
1⅓ cups unprocessed bran
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup cake flour, plus more for dredging
1 tablespoon skim milk powder (optional)
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
⅓ cup raisins
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, mix together the oil, eggs, egg yolks, water, sugar, bran, and vanilla; let stand for several minutes while the bran absorbs the liquid.
In another bowl, combine the flour, milk powder, baking soda, and salt. Gently stir together with your fingertips. Add to the bran mixture and mix only until incorporated. Dredge the raisins in a little flour and fold into the batter.
DROPPING Drop the batter into a greased or paper-lined muffin tin, filling each cup two-thirds full. If you like larger muffins, fill each cup almost to the top.
BAKING Place the muffin tins on a baking sheet and bake until the muffins are browned (15 to
20 minutes). A light touch with your finger in the center of a muffin should not leave a depression. Let cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then turn out of the tins and let cool completely on a wire rack. The muffins can be refrigerated or frozen. They will keep for several days in a plastic bag in a bread box.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the oil, eggs, egg yolks, water, and vanilla. In the work bowl, combine the sugar, bran, flour, milk powder, baking soda, and salt; pulse to combine. With the machine running slowly, add the egg mixture and mix just until incorporated. Do not overmix. Pour the batter back into the large bowl. Dredge the raisins in a little flour and fold into the batter. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2¼ cups vegetable oil
1½ cups beaten eggs (about 7 or 8 eggs)
¾ cup beaten egg yolks (about 9 yolks)
1½ cups water
4 cups unprocessed bran
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3 cups cake flour, plus more for dredging
3 tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
3 tablespoons baking soda
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup raisins
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the oil, eggs, egg yolks, water, sugar, bran, and vanilla; let stand for several minutes while the bran absorbs the liquid. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, milk powder, baking soda, and salt; gently stir with your fingertips, then add to the egg mixture and mix only until incorporated. Dredge the raisins in a little flour and fold into the batter. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 27 jumbo or 36 regular muffins.
Adele’s Bran Muffins
These low-fat, low-sodium, high-fiber muffins are quick and easy to make and take only 20 minutes to bake. The recipe contains no added fat, and if made with 2 egg whites or an egg substitute and without nuts, there is no cholesterol and no fat. There is also no refined sugar; I prefer the tang that molasses imparts. Unbaked batter can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week and muffins baked as desired.
⅓ cup skim milk powder
1⅓ cups water
2 egg whites, or 1 egg, beaten, or ¼ cup egg substitute
2 cups unprocessed bran
½ cup molasses or honey
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
⅓ cup raisins, or more to taste
⅓ cup chopped walnuts (optional), preferably toasted (see this page)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, dissolve the milk powder in the water. Mix in the egg whites, bran, and molasses and let stand for several minutes while the bran absorbs the liquid.
In another bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, and salt. Gently stir together with your fingertips. Add to the molasses mixture and mix only until incorporated. The mixture will be thick. Dredge the raisins and nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter.
Drop the mixture into greased muffin tins, filling each cup two-thirds full. If you like larger muffins, fill each cup almost to the top.
BAKING Place the muffin tins on a baking sheet and bake until the muffins develop a dark brown color (15 to 20 minutes). A light touch with your finger in the center of a muffin should not leave a depression; the muffin should have a firm feel and spring back. If necessary, bake for an additional 5 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then turn out of the tins and let cool completely on a wire rack. The muffins can be refrigerated or frozen. They will keep for several days in a plastic bag in a bread box.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.
BAKER’S SECRET
Place 1 to 2 tablespoons water in any empty muffin cups to keep them from scorching in the oven.
Variations
Buttermilk Bran Muffins
These are my favorite! Substitute 1⅓ cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page) in place of water and skim milk powder.
Chocolate Bran Muffins
For a unique flavor, add a heaping ¼ cup cocoa powder to the dry mixture.
Orange Bran Muffins
Add 2 tablespoons orange marmalade to the liquid mixture. I like Scottish marmalade made with Seville oranges.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the raisins and nuts. Pulse several times, but only until the ingredients are blended. Dredge the raisins and nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter.
Drop the mixture into greased muffin tins, filling each cup two-thirds full. If you like larger muffins, fill each cup almost to the top. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
1 cup skim milk powder
4 cups water
6 egg whites, or 3 eggs, beaten, or ¼ cup egg substitute
6 cups unprocessed bran
1½ cups molasses or honey
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 tablespoon salt (optional)
1 cup raisins, or more to taste
1 cup chopped walnuts (optional), preferably toasted (see this page)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, dissolve the milk powder in the water. Mix in the egg whites, bran, and molasses, and let stand for several minutes while the bran absorbs the liquid. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, and salt; gently stir with your fingertips, then add to the molasses mixture. Pulse with the on/off switch only until the dry ingredients are incorporated. The mixture will be thick. Dredge the raisins and nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter.
Drop the mixture into greased muffin tins, filling each cup two-thirds full. If you like larger muffins, fill each cup almost to the top. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 27 jumbo or 36 regular muffins.
Hawaiian Good Morning Muffins
These rich muffins are loaded with the goodness of Hawaiian sunshine. For a special morning, wake up to the aroma of coconut trees, ocean breezes, and pineapple scents. Listen for the water crashing onto the beach and the soft strumming of a ukulele. Hula dancing is optional.
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus
more for dredging
½ cup whole wheat flour
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup tightly packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¾ cup vegetable oil
2 eggs, lightly beaten
¾ cup grated carrots
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup chopped walnuts
¼ cup raisins, preferably golden
½ cup shredded or flaked coconut
¼ cup crushed pineapple, drained
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a mixing bowl, combine the flours, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Add the oil, eggs, carrots, and vanilla and mix only until combined. Dredge the walnuts and raisins in a little flour, then fold them into the batter, along with the coconut and pineapple. Drop the batter into greased or paper-lined muffin tins, filling each cup three-quarters full.
BAKING Bake until browned and the center feels firm when gently pressed with the fingertips (30 to 35 minutes). Cool for 5 to 10 minutes before turning out onto wire racks to cool completely. The muffins will keep for several days in plastic bags, preferably refrigerated. They may be frozen, well wrapped, for several weeks.
YIELD Makes about 12 muffins.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the work bowl, combine the flours, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, oil, eggs, carrots, and vanilla. Pulse several times only until the ingredients are blended. Remove to a mixing bowl. Fold in the walnuts and raisins (both dredged lightly with flour), coconut, and pineapple. Drop the batter into greased or paper-lined muffin tins, filling each cup three-quarters full. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 12 muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup tightly packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1½ cups grated carrots
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (see this page)
½ cup raisins, preferably golden
1 cup shredded or flaked coconut
½ cup crushed pineapple, drained
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the flours, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Add the oil, eggs, carrots, and vanilla and mix only until incorporated; do not overmix. Dredge the walnuts and raisins in a little flour, then fold into the batter, along with the coconut and pineapple. Drop the batter into greased or paper-lined muffin tins, filling each cup three-quarters full. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 24 muffins.
Corn Muffins
These muffins bake up into beautiful golden cakes with a slightly gritty texture that makes them so distinctive and popular. They can be baked in muffin tins or as sticks in special corn-shaped pans. If you prefer corn bread, an 8-inch square pan will be perfect for one recipe; bake as directed for muffins. These muffins are not as sweet as store-bought. On a recent visit to New England, I was served corn bread that had the sugar completely omitted; I learned that many New Englanders prefer their corn bread this way.
1 cup fine yellow cornmeal
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
1 egg, beaten
1 cup water
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, milk powder, salt, and baking powder. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg and water and stir only until incorporated. Do not overmix.
DROPPING Grease muffin tins or cornstick pans. (You can use an 8-inch square cake pan instead.) Cast-iron pans should be prewarmed, then greased and filled. Drop out the batter into the tins, making each cup three-quarters full.
BAKING Bake until browned (20 to 25 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when lightly touched with a fingertip. Let cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. (Serve the bread from the pan.) The muffins can be refrigerated or frozen. They keep for several days in a plastic bag in a bread box.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the work bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, milk powder, salt, and baking powder. Mix in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. While pulsing, add the egg and water and mix only until incorporated. Do not overmix. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
This recipe can be doubled as desired. The batter can be refrigerated for up to 1 week, but the muffins won’t puff up quite as high when baked.
2 cups fine yellow cornmeal
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup sugar
⅔ cup skim milk powder (omit for nondairy recipe)
2 teaspoons salt
8 teaspoons baking powder
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups water
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, milk powder, salt, and baking powder. Mix in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Slowly pour in the eggs and water and mix only until incorporated. Do not overmix. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 jumbo or 24 regular muffins.
Rich Corn Muffins
Additional butter and egg combined with sour cream or yogurt plus with the punch that baking soda supplies, brightens the texture and intensifies the taste of these rich muffins.
½ cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened, or ¼ cup butter and ¼ cup vegetable oil
½ cup sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup yogurt (low-fat is fine) or nondairy sour cream
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup fine yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a mixing bowl, combine the butter and sugar, then add the eggs and yogurt. Add the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, then mix only until incorporated. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula and mix just a bit more. Drop out into a greased muffin tin, filling each cup about three-quarters full.
BAKER’S SECRET
Use an ice cream scoop to fill the cups. Neat and clean!
BAKING Bake until lightly browned and the center feels firm when lightly pressed with a fingertip (about 20 minutes).
Place the tin on a wire rack, cover lightly with a clean kitchen towel, and cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then gently turn the muffins out onto the rack to cool completely. The muffins may be stored in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for several days. They also freeze well for up to 4 weeks. To thaw, place in the refrigerator overnight. The muffins may be warmed in the microwave for 20 to 30 seconds. Alternately, slice in half and toast.
YIELD Makes about 9 muffins.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the work bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Pulse in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. While pulsing, add the egg and yogurt and mix only until incorporated. Do not overmix. Drop out into a greased muffin tin, filling each cup about three-quarters full. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 9 muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
1 cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened, or ½ cup butter and ½ cup vegetable oil
1 cup sugar
4 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup yogurt or sour cream (low-fat is fine; see Note above)
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup fine yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
2 tablespoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar, then add the eggs and yogurt. Add the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt and mix by pulsing with the on/off switch until the ingredients are incorporated enough that the flour won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until barely absorbed. Stop the machine, scrape down the sides and the bottom with a rubber spatula, and briefly mix to combine. Drop out into greased muffin tins, filling each cup about three-quarters full and proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 18 muffins.
Cajun Corn Muffins
Add a bit of Louisiana spice to your barbecue with these zesty muffins.
1 cup medium-coarse yellow cornmeal
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup corn kernels, freshly cooked or canned, drained
¼ cup chopped green onion (about 1 green onion)
¼ teaspoon Louisiana Hot Sauce, or more to taste
¾ cup buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Add the oil, eggs, corn, green onion, hot sauce, and buttermilk; mix until incorporated.
DROPPING Grease muffin tins or cornstick pans. (You can use an 8- or 9-inch square cake pan instead.) Cast-iron pans should be prewarmed, then greased and filled. Drop out the batter into the tins, making each cup three-quarters full.
BAKING Bake until browned (20 to 30 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when lightly touched with a fingertip. Let cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then remove to a wire rack to cool. (Serve the bread from the pan.) The muffins can be refrigerated or frozen.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the work bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Mix in the oil, eggs, and hot sauce. While pulsing, add the buttermilk; mix only until incorporated. Add the corn and green onion. Pulse only once or twice or fold in by hand. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
3 cups yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons baking soda
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1½ cups corn kernels, freshly cooked or canned, drained
¾ cup chopped green onion (about 3 green onions)
¾ teaspoon Louisiana Hot Sauce, or more to taste
2¼ cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Add the oil, eggs, corn, green onion, hot sauce, and buttermilk; mix until incorporated. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 27 jumbo or 36 regular muffins.
Corn and Molasses Muffins
Most likely a New England original, old-fashioned molasses and American corn. Try this triple tasty treat!
1 cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
1 egg, beaten
¼ cup molasses
¾ cup water
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg, molasses, and water, and mix with a wooden spoon only until incorporated.
DROPPING Grease muffin tins or cornstick pans. (You can use an 8-inch square cake pan instead.) Cast-iron pans should be prewarmed, then greased and filled. Drop out the batter into the tins, making each cup three-quarters full.
BAKING Bake until browned (about 20 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when lightly touched with a fingertip. Let cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. (Serve the bread from the pan.) The muffins can be refrigerated or frozen. They keep for several days in a plastic bag in a bread box.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. While pulsing, add the egg, molasses, and water and mix only until incorporated; do not overmix. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
This recipe can be doubled if desired. The batter can be refrigerated for up to 1 week, but the muffins won’t puff up quite as high when baked.
2 cups cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons skim milk powder (optional)
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup molasses
1½ cups water
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Slowly pour in the eggs, molasses, and water and mix only until incorporated; do not overmix. Proceed as in Dropping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 jumbo or 24 regular muffins.
Crunchy Corn Muffins
These muffins bake out sweet and crunchy. Use medium-coarse or coarse cornmeal, if available.
½ cup medium-coarse yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground, plus more for dusting muffin tins and muffins
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ cup sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
1 egg, beaten
¾ cup milk or water
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a muffin tin well. Place 1 tablespoon cornmeal in each cup. Cover and shake so that the cornmeal coats the bottom and sides of each cup. Tap out any excess.
In a large bowl, combine the ½ cup cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg and milk and stir only until incorporated. Do not overmix. Drop out the batter into the prepared muffin tin with a spoon, filling each cup two-thirds full. Dust the tops of the muffins by sprinkling lightly with extra cornmeal.
BAKER’S SECRET
When making a double batch, place the cornmeal in each cup of the first muffin tin. Invert a second greased tin over the first. While holding the tins together, turn over and shake. Both tins will become coated. Tap out any excess.
BAKING Bake until browned (about 20 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when lightly touched with a fingertip. Let the muffins cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely.
YIELD Makes about 9 muffins.
Rich Cranberry Walnut Muffins
Brown sugar, whole wheat flour, and the combination of cranberries and walnuts, enrich the taste and bite. Use yogurt in this recipe to produce muffins with exceptional texture.
½ cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened (see Note)
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup tightly packed brown sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup yogurt (low-fat is fine) or nondairy sour cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ to ¾ cup fresh or frozen cranberries (see Note)
½ cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (see this page)
Walnut halves, for garnish (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, combine the butter and sugars, then stir in the eggs, yogurt, and vanilla. Add the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and mix until just combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom with a rubber spatula then stir just a bit more. Dredge the cranberries and walnuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into a greased muffin tin, filling each cup about three-quarters full. Garnish each with a nice walnut half.
BAKING Bake until browned and the center feels firm when lightly pressed with a fingertip (about 20 minutes).
Place the tin on a wire rack, cover lightly with a clean kitchen towel, and cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then gently turn the muffins out onto the rack to cool completely. Serve the muffins warm or at room temperature. The muffins may be stored in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for several days. They also freeze well for up to 4 weeks. To thaw, place in the refrigerator overnight or microwave for no longer than 30 seconds.
YIELD Makes about 10 to 12 muffins.
NOTES Try substituting ¼ cup olive oil for ¼ cup of the butter (½ cup in the stand mixer recipe). You may use dried cranberries, in which case you’ll need to soak them for at least an hour to plump them up.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
1 cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened (see Note above)
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup tightly packed brown sugar
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup yogurt (low-fat is fine) or nondairy sour cream
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 to 1½ cups fresh or frozen cranberries (see Note above)
1 cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (see this page)
Walnut halves or chopped walnuts, for garnish (optional)
In the mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugars, then stir in the eggs, yogurt, and vanilla. Add the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and mix until just combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula and mix just a bit more. Dredge the cranberries and walnuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop out into greased muffin tins, filling each cup about three-quarters full. Garnish each with a nice walnut half. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes about 24 muffins.
Adele’s Oat Bran Muffins
These muffins bake out light and fluffy, taste sweet but contain no refined sugar, and are low in sodium. Oats have much greater nutritional value than do wheat and most other grains. They are higher in protein and contain significant amounts of vitamins and minerals. Oat bran is high in fiber. This recipe contains no added fat, and if made with 2 egg whites or an egg substitute and without nuts, it has no cholesterol or fat. For a nondairy version, replace the buttermilk with soy milk or soy yogurt.
1⅓ cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
1 egg, beaten, or 2 egg whites, or ¼ cup egg substitute
2 cups oat bran
½ cup molasses
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 teaspoon baking soda
⅓ cup raisins
⅓ cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (optional; see this page)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the buttermilk, egg, oat bran, and molasses. Allow to stand for several minutes while the bran absorbs the liquid. In a small bowl, combine the flour and baking soda. Gently stir together with your fingertips. Add to the buttermilk mixture and stir with a wooden spoon only until incorporated. Dredge the raisins and nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, making each cup two-thirds full. For jumbo muffins, fill the cups to the top.
BAKING Bake until browned (about 20 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when lightly touched with a fingertip. Let cool for 5 minutes in the tins, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool. The muffins keep well in a plastic bag and can be refrigerated or frozen.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.
Variation
Whole-Grain Oat Bran Muffins
Substitute whole wheat flour (preferably stone-ground) for the all-purpose flour. This will result in a whole-grain muffin with exceptional flavor and high fiber content. We prefer this version in our house, and it might become your favorite, too.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine the buttermilk, egg, oat bran, and molasses. Pulse until blended. Add the flour and baking soda and mix only until incorporated. Dredge the raisins and nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, making each cup two-thirds full. For jumbo muffins, fill the cups to the top. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
4 cups buttermilk or sour milk (see this page)
6 egg whites, or 3 eggs, beaten, or ¼ cup egg substitute
6 cups oat bran
1½ cups molasses
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (optional; see this page)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the buttermilk, egg whites, oat bran, and molasses. Allow to stand for several minutes while the bran absorbs the liquid. Add the flour and baking soda and mix only until the dry ingredients are incorporated. Dredge the raisins and nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, making each cup two-thirds full. For jumbo muffins, fill the cups to the top. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 27 jumbo or 36 regular muffins.
Oatmeal Muffins
Oats and raisins are used in cereal and in cookies, so why not in muffins? In addition to having good flavor, these muffins stay soft and moist. They make a nutritious breakfast accompaniment and also stand well by themselves as a snack or dessert. For a nondairy version, omit the skim milk and replace the butter with margarine or shortening.
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 cup rolled oats (not instant)
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
⅓ cup skim milk powder (optional)
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
1 cup water
1 egg, beaten, or ¼ cup egg substitute
½ cup raisins
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, oats, brown sugar, milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the water and egg and mix with a wooden spoon only until incorporated. Dredge the raisins in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, making each cup two-thirds full.
BAKING Bake until browned (about 20 minutes). The centers should feel firm and spring back when lightly touched with a fingertip. Let cool in the tins for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. The muffins can be refrigerated or frozen. They keep for several days in a plastic bag in a bread box.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.
Variation
Oatmeal Muffins with Cooked Oatmeal
These muffins are made with leftover cooked oatmeal. Substitute cooked oatmeal for the rolled oats and decrease the water to ¾ cup (1½ cups in the stand mixer recipe). Decrease the milk powder to ¼ cup (½ cup in the stand mixer recipe).

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine the flour, oats, brown sugar, milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. While pulsing, add the water and egg and mix only until incorporated; do not overmix. Dredge the raisins in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, making each cup two-thirds full. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 9 jumbo or 12 regular muffins.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
2 cups rolled oats (not instant)
½ cup firmly packed brown sugar
⅔ cup skim milk powder (optional)
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening, softened
2 cups water
2 eggs, beaten, or ¼ cup egg substitute
1 cup raisins
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the flour, oats, brown sugar, milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the water and egg and mix at slow speed only until incorporated. Dredge the raisins in a little flour and fold into the batter. Drop into greased muffin tins, making each cup two-thirds full. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 18 jumbo or 24 regular muffins.
CHAPTER NINE
Quick Breads
Quick breads are breads and loaves that are raised with baking powder and/or baking soda. They range from true breads, such as Irish Soda Bread (this page), to sweet tea cakes and loaves, such as Rich Carrot Loaf (this page) and Zucchini Bread (this page). These quick breads are so named because they are mixed and baked immediately, requiring no fermentation or rising time. Most recipes will make 2 loaves when using 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Fill the pans two-thirds to three-quarters full. Any leftover batter can be baked in muffin tins, which will require less baking time.
Quick Bran Bread
This nutritious whole-grain quick bread is made with buttermilk and molasses, which results in a zesty flavor. Nut meats enrich the flavor and add crunch to the bread. Here’s a loaf that can enrich your family’s diet while they enjoy a tasty treat. For a nondairy version, replace the butter with margarine or shortening and the buttermilk with soy milk or soy yogurt.
2 cups unprocessed bran
1⅓ cups buttermilk or nondairy substitute (see this page)
1 egg, beaten
½ cup molasses
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, melted
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans, preferably toasted (optional; see this page)
½ cup raisins (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine the bran, buttermilk, egg, molasses, and butter. Allow a few minutes for the bran to absorb the liquid. In another bowl, combine the flour, salt, baking soda, and zest. Add to the bran mixture, mixing only long enough to incorporate. Dredge the nuts and raisins (you may wish to use either or both) in a little flour and fold into the batter. Grease two 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans.
BAKING Bake until browned (45 to 60 minutes). The center should feel firm when gently pressed with your fingertips. Let cool in the pans for 5 to 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Variation
Oat Bran Bread
Substitute oat bran for the unprocessed bran.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Quick Bran Bread is so easy to make by hand that it may not warrant using and cleaning the food processor. If you choose to do so, follow these directions: Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the work bowl, combine the bran, buttermilk, egg, molasses, butter, flour, salt, baking soda, and zest. Pulse only until combined. Dredge the nuts and raisins (you may wish to use either or both) in a little flour and fold into the batter. Grease two 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
4 cups unprocessed bran
2⅔ cups buttermilk or nondairy substitute (see this page)
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup molasses
4 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans, preferably toasted (optional; see this page)
1 cup raisins (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the bran, buttermilk, eggs, molasses, and butter. Allow a few minutes for the bran to absorb the liquid. In another bowl, combine the flour, salt, baking soda, and zest. Add to the bran mixture, mixing only long enough to incorporate. Dredge the nuts and raisins (you may wish to use either or both) in a little flour and fold into the batter. Grease four 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Buttermilk Whole-Grain Bread
Whole wheat flour, wheat germ, and buttermilk make for a tasty, nutritious family treat.
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
½ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
½ cup wheat germ
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine, melted
1 egg, beaten
1½ cups buttermilk, soy milk, or soy yogurt
Juice and grated zest of ½ lemon
½ cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (optional; see this page)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine the flours, wheat germ, salt, baking soda, sugar, and butter. Add the egg, buttermilk, and lemon juice and zest; mix only until incorporated. Dredge the nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Grease an 8- or 9-inch loaf pan, then line it with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottom again and dust it with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pan.
BAKING Bake until browned (35 to 45 minutes). The center should feel firm when gently pressed with your fingertips. Let cool in the pan for 5 to 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the work bowl, combine the flours, wheat germ, salt, baking soda, sugar, and butter. Add the egg, buttermilk, and lemon juice and zest; mix only until incorporated. Dredge the nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Grease an 8- or 9-inch loaf pan, then line it with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottom again and dust it with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pan and proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1 cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
1 cup wheat germ
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, melted
2 eggs, beaten
3 cups buttermilk, soy milk, or soy yogurt
Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (optional; see this page)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the flours, wheat germ, salt, baking soda, sugar, and butter. Add the egg, buttermilk, and lemon juice and zest; mix only until incorporated. Dredge the nuts in a little flour and fold into the batter. Grease two 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans and proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Irish Soda Bread
When Irish soda bread comes to mind, I picture a fireplace with a crackling flame and bread being baked in a heavy iron pot sitting on a bed of coals directly on the hearth, the recessed lid of the pot covered with a shovelful of hot ash. There is a hearty aroma of meat and potatoes. This recipe is simple to make: It is done in one step with all of the ingredients mixed in one bowl; so whenever the mood comes upon me, I whip up a batch.
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1⅓ cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
1 egg, beaten
¾ cup dried currants or raisins
1 tablespoon caraway seeds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Cut or rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the baking soda and salt, stir gently, then add the buttermilk, egg, currants, and caraway seeds and stir until smooth. Turn out onto a floured work surface.
SHAPING Shape the dough into a ball, smooth side up, and gently press the top down. Sift or dust flour over the top and place on an ungreased baking sheet, an 8-inch pie pan or cake pan, or a cast-iron skillet. Cut two ¼-inch-deep slashes from end to end in the form of a cross. The cuts will expand in the oven and give the bread its traditional shape.
BAKING Bake until the crust feels firm when touched lightly in the center with your fingertips (about 45 minutes). Be careful not to penetrate the crust with your finger. If the center is still soft, continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes more.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine the flour, sugar, butter, baking soda, and salt. Pulse several times until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and egg and pulse until incorporated (about 30 seconds). Do not overmix. Turn out onto a floured surface, sprinkle with the currants and caraway seeds, and shape into a ball. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2⅔ cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
2 eggs, beaten
8 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
¼ cup sugar
½ cup unsalted butter or shortening
2 tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
1½ cups dried currants or raisins
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the buttermilk and eggs; add the flour and baking soda and mix just until incorporated. Add the sugar, butter, salt, and caraway seeds. Pulse by turning the switch on and off quickly until mixed enough that the flour will not be thrown out of the bowl. Mix at first speed until smooth. Add the currants and mix just long enough to incorporate. If they are overmixed, they will be crushed and their color will run into the dough. If it takes more than a few turns to incorporate the currants, knead them in by hand on the work surface.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and divide in half. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 2 loaves.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Whole Wheat Irish Soda Bread
Irish soda bread made with whole wheat flour is nutritious and has a sweet, nutty flavor. Try it for yourself and decide which one you prefer.
2 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or shortening
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1⅓ cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
1 egg, beaten
¾ cup dried currants or raisins
1 tablespoon caraway seeds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the flours and sugar. Cut or rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the baking soda and salt, stir gently, then add the buttermilk, egg, currants, and caraway seeds and stir until smooth. Turn out onto a floured work surface.
SHAPING Shape the dough into a ball, smooth side up, and gently press the top down. Sift or dust all-purpose flour over the top and place on an ungreased baking sheet, an 8-inch pie pan or cake pan, or a cast-iron skillet. Cut two ¼-inch-deep slashes from end to end in the form of a cross. The cuts will expand in the oven and give the bread its traditional shape.
BAKING Bake until the crust feels firm when lightly touched in the center with your fingertips (about 45 minutes). Be careful not to penetrate the crust with your finger. If the center is still soft, continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes more.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine the flours, sugar, butter, baking soda, and salt. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and egg and pulse until incorporated, then pulse for 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Turn out onto a floured surface, sprinkle with the currants and caraway seeds, and shape into a ball. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2⅔ cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
2 eggs, beaten
4 cups whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons sugar
½ cup unsalted butter or shortening
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons salt
1½ cups dried currants or raisins
2 tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the buttermilk, eggs, flours, sugar, butter, baking soda, and salt. Pulse by turning the switch on and off quickly until mixed enough that the flour will not be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed until smooth. Add the currants and caraway seeds and mix just long enough to incorporate. If the currants are overmixed, they will be crushed and their color will run into the dough. If it takes more than a few turns to incorporate the currants, knead them in by hand on the work surface. Turn out onto a floured work surface and divide in half. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 2 loaves.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Quick Irish Soda Bread
Authentic and easy, Irish soda bread in its simplest form is made up of milk, flour, baking soda, and salt. It contains no added sugar or fat, making it a guilt-free treat. Caraway seeds give the bread its distinctive flavor.
2 cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1½ teaspoons salt
¾ cup dried currants or raisins
1 tablespoon caraway seeds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients and stir until smooth. Turn out onto a floured work surface.
SHAPING Shape the dough into a ball, smooth side up, and gently press the top down. Sift or dust flour over the top and place on an ungreased baking sheet, an 8-inch pie pan or cake pan, or a cast-iron skillet. Cut two ¼-inch-deep slashes from end to end in the form of a cross. The cuts will expand in the oven and give the bread its traditional shape.
BAKING Cover with aluminum foil, place in the oven immediately, and bake until the crust feels firm when lightly touched in the center with your fingertips (about 45 minutes). Be careful not to penetrate the crust with your finger. If the center is still soft, continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes more. Bake uncovered for the last 5 to 10 minutes.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.
FOOD PROCESSOR: PLASTIC BLADE
This recipe is so simple that it is hardly worthwhile to use and clean the processor. However, if you wish to try it, use these instructions: Preheat the oven to 375°F. In the work bowl, combine the buttermilk, flour, baking soda, and salt. Pulse just long enough to make a smooth dough (about 30 seconds). Turn out onto a floured surface, sprinkle with the currants and caraway seeds, and shape into a ball. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 1 loaf.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
4 cups buttermilk, sour milk (see this page), or nondairy substitute (see this page)
8 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 tablespoon salt
1½ cups dried currants or raisins
2 tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the buttermilk in the mixing bowl and add the flour, baking soda, and salt. Pulse by turning the switch on and off quickly until mixed enough that the flour will not be thrown out of the bowl, then mix at first speed only until combined. Add the currants and caraway seeds and mix just long enough to incorporate. If the currants are overmixed, they will be crushed and their color will run into the dough. If it takes more than a few turns to distribute the currants, knead them in by hand on the work surface. Turn out onto a floured work surface and divide the dough in half. Proceed as in Shaping and Baking, above, except shape into 2 loaves.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Mandelbrot
This distinctive old-world loaf tastes like part cookie, part cake. No other dessert or tea cake is comparable. When sliced and toasted in the oven, it tastes like biscotti. Enjoy making this quick cake.
½ cup sugar
¼ cup almond paste (see this page and Note)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ cup milk, soy milk, or water
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract (optional)
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Sugar, for sprinkling (optional)
Fruit and Nut Filling
2 cups chopped nuts, such as walnuts or filberts, preferably toasted (see this page)
½ cup diced citron or raisins
¼ cup halved or chopped maraschino cherries (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine the sugar and almond paste; rub together until as fine as possible. Cream with the butter only until the sugar no longer feels gritty. Add the eggs one-third at a time, and mix until incorporated. Add the flours, baking powder, milk, salt, and almond extract; stir to combine. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula, then continue mixing until well blended. Turn out onto a well-floured work surface. Keep your hands floured. This will be a soft, sticky dough.
FILLING You can divide the dough in half and prepare each half with a different filling (see Variations, below). Combine the filling ingredients, then spread on top of the dough, working with 1 piece at a time. Divide each piece of the dough in half and layer by placing one piece on top of the other. Press together, cut in half, and repeat several times so that the filling is evenly layered. Place in a floured pan and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to facilitate handling.
SHAPING Divide into 2 pieces and lightly mold each into a loaf shape. Place on a greased baking sheet. For best results, use double baking sheets, one inserted into the other, so that the bottom does not burn. Leave room for the loaves to spread in the oven. Brush with the egg wash. Sprinkle the sugar in a thin line down the length of each loaf.
BAKING Bake until evenly browned and the center feels firm when gently pressed with a fingertip (about 40 minutes). Let cool on wire racks. This bread keeps well for several days and can be frozen.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE Almond paste is available in supermarkets and specialty food shops, or you can make your own (see this page). Only purchase it in cans. The wrapped types are unacceptable for this application.
Chocolate Mandelbrot
Prepare as above but use this chocolate filling instead of the fruit and nuts. I use Nestlé brand bits.
8 ounces semisweet chocolate bits (1⅓ cups), plus more for topping (optional)
½ cup butter or margarine
Melt the chocolate and butter together in a double boiler, microwave oven, or saucepan over a heat diffuser; allow to cool. Proceed as in Filling, above. Before baking, brush with the egg wash, as above. Top the loaves with chocolate bits. If you wish, drizzle additional melted chocolate over the tops of the loaves after baking and cooling.
Toasted Mandelbrot (Biscotti)
Bake the Mandelbrot with the Fruit and Nut Filling, then let cool thoroughly. Cut into 1-inch slices. Arrange the slices, cut side up and touching each other, on a clean, ungreased baking sheet and bake in a preheated 350°F oven until lightly browned (about 15 minutes).
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the work bowl, cream the sugar, almond paste, and butter. Add the eggs one-third at a time, and pulse until incorporated. Add the flours, baking powder, milk, salt, and almond extract and pulse only until blended. Avoid overmixing. This will be a soft, wet dough. Turn out onto a well-floured work surface and proceed as in Filling, Shaping, and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
1 cup sugar
½ cup almond paste (see this page and Note above)
¾ cup unsalted butter or margarine
4 eggs, beaten
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ cup milk or water
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons almond extract (optional)
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt, for egg wash
Sugar, for sprinkling (optional)
Fruit and Nut Filling
4 cups chopped nuts, such as walnuts or filberts, preferably toasted (see this page)
1 cup diced citron or raisins
½ cup halved or chopped maraschino cherries (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the mixing bowl, combine the sugar and almond paste until smooth. Cream with the butter only until the sugar no longer feels gritty. Add the eggs one-third at a time, and mix until incorporated. Add the flours, baking powder, milk, salt, and almond extract; mix until incorporated. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula, then continue mixing until well blended. Turn out onto a well-floured work surface. Proceed as in Filling, Shaping, and Baking, above, except cut into 4 pieces and bake 2 to a baking sheet.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Wine Loaf
Here is a quick recipe for an old standby that serves as the baker’s stockpot. “Wine loaf” or “wine cake” is a baker’s term; there is no wine in the batter. The loaf has a pleasant and delicate taste and is meant to be served with sweet wine. The loaves can be refrigerated for up to 1 week and can be baked plain or with various additions (variations follow). You will find references to this loaf in other recipes. Drop this batter into muffin tins for cupcakes, or mix with assorted nuts, raisins, or fruits for quick muffins. Mastering this recipe can give you an entire bakery repertoire limited only by your own imagination. For example, substitute lemon or orange flavoring for the vanilla, or substitute butter for the shortening, or add toppings. Have fun with this recipe!
1½ cups shortening or margarine
2 cups sugar
5⅓ cups cake flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons salt
7 eggs, beaten
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
⅔ cup water
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, cream the shortening with the sugar, 1⅓ cups of the flour, the baking powder, and the salt. Beat in the eggs one-third at a time. Mix in the vanilla. Alternately mix in the remaining 4 cups flour and the water. (At this point the batter can be stored in clean containers in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)
Grease four or five 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans.
BAKING Bake until evenly browned and the center feels firm when gently pressed with a fingertip (30 to 40 minutes). Let cool on wire racks. This bread keeps well for several days and can be frozen.
YIELD Makes 4 or 5 loaves.
Variations
Walnut, Chocolate Bit, or Raisin Loaves
Fold ½ to ¾ cup walnuts, chocolate bits, or raisins into each loaf cake. Sprinkle additional nuts or chocolate bits on top and bake as above.
Duchess Loaf
Fill the prepared pans with Wine Loaf batter. With a fingertip dipped in vegetable oil, draw a line lengthwise down the center of the loaf and proceed as in Baking, above. Let cool, then remove from the pans. While the loaf is baking, prepare the Vanilla and Chocolate Icings below. The amount of icing in the recipes below is enough to make 1 Duchess Loaf. For a nondairy version, replace the butter with margarine or shortening.
Vanilla Icing
1 cup confectioners’ sugar or prepared fondant
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, melted
⅛ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup hot water
In the top of a double boiler, combine the sugar, butter, and vanilla; add ½ cup of the water and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the remaining ½ cup water 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time as necessary until the icing is smooth and lump free. It should be spreadable but thick, and warm to the touch. While it’s still warm, spread a little more than one-half of the icing atop one long half of the loaf, staying on one side of the vegetable oil line you made with your finger. If need be, the icing can be rewarmed in a double boiler or in a microwave oven, but do not overheat. Reserve some Vanilla Icing to make the Chocolate Icing, below.
Chocolate Icing
2 ounces semisweet chocolate bits(⅓ cup)
Leftover Vanilla Icing
Melt the chocolate bits in a double boiler or in a microwave oven, then let cool slightly. Add to the remaining warm Vanilla Icing and stir in quickly and thoroughly. If necessary, gently reheat or thin with hot water, 1 teaspoon at a time. When the Vanilla Icing on the Duchess Loaf is dry to the touch, spread warm Chocolate Icing on the opposite side of the loaf. Serve the Duchess Loaf within 1 to 2 days of baking. It can be refrigerated, but the icing could become runny in humid conditions. This loaf can be frozen, but wait to apply the icing until defrosted, since the icing may become runny or cracked as the cake defrosts. D
French Crumb Coffee Cake
Drop out Wine Loaf batter into a greased 9- by 9-inch baking pan or a 9-inch round layer pan; fill either pan two-thirds full. Sprinkle a heavy layer of Streusel Topping (this page) on top to cover. Bake as above. Once cool, dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
¾ cup shortening
1 cup sugar
2⅔ cups cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3½ eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
⅓ cup water
In the work bowl, combine the shortening, sugar, ⅔ cup of the flour, the baking powder, and the salt. Mix in the eggs one-third at a time, then mix in the vanilla. Add the 2 remaining cups flour. Then, with the machine running, pour in the water. Mix only until completely blended.
Grease two or three 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 or 3 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
2¼ cups shortening
3 cups sugar
8 cups cake flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 tablespoon salt
10 eggs, beaten
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup water
In the mixing bowl, cream the shortening, sugar, 2 cups of the flour, the baking powder, and the salt. Beat in the eggs one-third at a time. Add the vanilla. Mix in the remaining 6 cups flour until incorporated. Add the water a little at a time. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula, then continue mixing until smooth.
Grease six to eight 8- to 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Turn out the batter into the prepared pans. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 6 to 8 loaves.
Black and Whites
Of all the cookies my bakery used to make, the most loved by children and adults alike were the black and whites. Black and whites have been adopted by bakeries of many different ethnicities. It is not unusual to find them displayed in bakery counters, diners, high-end coffee shops, and upscale food markets. The hard fondant icing is what makes them stand out. None of that soft buttercream frosting for me.
In my bakery, we used prepared fondant to ice the black and whites. Fondant is a candy maker’s coating cooked to a high temperature and then cured by blending the resulting candy until it becomes a solid white amalgam that can be thinned and poured over cakes, used to coat petit fours, or spread over other baked goods with a knife.
You may ice the black and whites with either a simple icing, a mock fondant icing, or a commercially prepared fondant; all three recipes are given below. As you might imagine, the simple icing is easy to prepare, and it may also be used for icing coffee cakes and other sweet baked goods. Adding the optional corn syrup to the simple icing will enchance the shine.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter (see Note)
½ cup sugar
1½ eggs (lightly beat one egg and pour off half for another use)
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons milk (see Note)
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Simple Icing
3 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 cup hot water
2 tablespoons corn syrup (optional)
¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest (optional)
Mock Fondant Icing
2 ounces white chocolate
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
½ recipe Simple Icing (above)
Chocolate Mock Fondant
2 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
½ recipe Simple Icing (above)
Fondant Icing
2 to 3 cups prepared fondant
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water
1 tablespoon vegetable oil (see Note)
1 tablespoon light corn syrup (optional)
¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add the eggs, flour, baking powder, and salt and stir until incorporated. Add the milk and vanilla and mix just until combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then mix a bit more; do not overmix or the black and whites will be tough.
DROPPING Lightly grease a baking sheet and dust with flour; tap to remove excess flour. Drop out 2 tablespoons of batter for each cookie, evenly spaced in three rows, leaving room for the cookies to spread.
BAKING Bake until the centers are firm when pressed lightly with a fingertip (15 to 20 minutes). With a spatula, carefully lift up an edge of one cookie and check that the bottoms are evenly browned. The tops will remain light in color. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack, bottoms up, to cool. When completely cooled, the cookies may be iced. Or, prior to frosting, the cookies may stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 days or in the freezer, well wrapped.
SIMPLE ICING Fill a 1-quart saucepan one-third full, bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer; do not allow to boil. Place a heatproof bowl over the saucepan (alternatively, you can use a double boiler). Place the confectioners’ sugar in the bowl, then add ½ cup of the hot water to the sugar, whisking constantly. Keep whisking in the remaining ½ cup hot water slowly until the icing, when drizzled over the surface, holds ribbons for a few seconds before disappearing. The icing should only be warmed until it feels warm to the touch; otherwise, it will become dull and spotty when it dries.
BAKER’S SECRET
To save time when working with small amounts, professional bakers eliminate the water bath and stir with the pot directly over a low flame, controlling the temperature by removing the pot from the heat from time to time while stirring. A heat diffuser is also helpful here. Some bakers even control the temperature by stirring the icing with a clean hand. As the bottom of the pot becomes too hot for the hand, the pot is quickly removed from the flame (otherwise the fingers hurt). Yes, bakers do use their hands!
Remove from the heat and stir in the corn syrup, vanilla, and zest. Use at once or keep the icing above the warm water until needed. Float a thin film of water over the top so that a crust does not form.
MOCK FONDANT ICING To improve the Simple Icing, melt 2 ounces white chocolate with 2 teaspoons vegetable oil. Let cool briefly, then stir quickly in a steady stream into the warm Simple Icing. Additional warm water may be necessary if the icing becomes too thick. Use while warm.
CHOCOLATE MOCK FONDANT Follow the instructions for the Mock Fondant Icing, using semisweet chocolate in place of the white chocolate.
FONDANT ICING Fill a 1-quart saucepan one-third full, bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer; do not allow to boil. Place a heatproof bowl over the saucepan (alternatively, you can use a double boiler). Place the prepared fondant and 2 tablespoons of the warm water in the bowl and slowly melt the fondant while stirring with a wooden spoon. Stir slowly so as not to aerate the icing. When warm and smooth, add the oil and corn syrup. Continue adding warm water 1 tablespoon at a time, until the icing forms ribbons when drizzled over the surface. Heat until warm to the touch; do not overheat or the fondant will become dull and spotted when dry. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla and zest. Use at once or keep in the warm water bath until needed. Float a thin film of water over the top so that a crust does not form.
ICING THE BLACK AND WHITES When ready to ice, set half of whichever icing you are using aside to be used for the Chocolate Mock Fondant. If necessary, heat the Simple Icing until just warm to the touch. With a small bowl scraper or spatula, spread the icing over the bottom half of the cookie. This requires a little bit of experimentation to get the icing thick enough to spread without dripping, and thin enough to work with. A little patience will produce good results. Set each cookie on a rack and let the icing dry. Then prepare the Chocolate Mock Fondant and spread over the remaining half. Set aside to cool. Enjoy!
YIELD Makes 9 black and whites.
NOTE For a nondairy (pareve) dough recipe, substitute shortening or margarine for the butter and water or a nondairy substitute (see this page) for the milk. In the fondant, you may substitute unsalted butter (dairy) or shortening (pareve) for the vegetable oil for a more opaque frosting. Some gloss will be lost.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the work bowl, pulse the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs, flour, baking powder, and salt, pulse briefly to combine, then add the milk and vanilla. Pulse to combine, then process until the ingredients are fully incorporated; do not overmix or the black and whites will become tough. Proceed as in Dropping, Baking, and Icing, above.
YIELD Makes 9 black and whites.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
6 tablespoons unsalted butter (see Note above)
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
⅓ cup milk (see Note above)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs, flour, baking powder, and salt and pulse with the on/off switch until the flour is incorporated enough that it won’t be thrown out of the bowl. Add the milk and vanilla and mix until fully combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula and mix just a bit more; don’t overmix, or the black and whites will be tough. Proceed as in Dropping, Baking, and Icing, above, except make 18 black and whites.
YIELD Makes 18 black and whites.
Sour Cream Loaf
Here is a rich, sweet coffee cake that is sure to please your guests and enhance your reputation as a baker. This can easily become a family favorite. It is a cut above the ordinary, containing sour cream for texture, brown sugar for an earthy flavor, plus pecans, chocolate, and cinnamon to please the taste buds.
Filling
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ cup chopped pecans
½ cup semisweet chocolate bits
Batter
½ cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened
1 cup sugar
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup sour cream (not low-fat)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Blend the filling ingredients together and set aside.
In a large bowl, lightly cream or rub together the butter and sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, and mix thoroughly. Add the sour cream and vanilla; beat until smooth. Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; stir gently to combine the dry ingredients, then beat thoroughly. Turn out half the batter into 2 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Sprinkle on half of the filling, then top with the rest of the batter.
BAKING Bake for 15 minutes, then carefully top with the reserved filling and return the loaves to the oven. (Any leftover filling can be stored in a tightly closed container and used again.) Bake until browned and the center feels firm when gently pressed with your fingertips (about 30 minutes). Take care not to burn yourself on the hot topping when testing for doneness. Let cool for 5 to 10 minutes in the pans, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
Variation
Boston-Style Old-Fashioned Coffee Cake
Prepare one 8- or 9-inch tube pan or Gugelhopf pan. Grease the pan well with butter or shortening. Pour half of the filling ingredients into the pan, cover, and shake. Return the filling that does not adhere to the filling that was held back. Fill the tube pan with half of the batter. Add the remaining filling, then fill with the remaining batter to cover. Bake as above for 45 to 60 minutes. Test for doneness as above.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Blend the filling ingredients together and set aside.
In the work bowl, cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, then add the sour cream and vanilla. Mix until smooth. Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; mix thoroughly. Turn out half the batter into 2 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Sprinkle on half of the filling, then top with the rest of the batter. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
For half the yield, use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. Those smaller quantities will work fine in a stand mixer.
Filling
1½ cups firmly packed brown sugar
4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 cup chopped pecans
1 cup semisweet chocolate bits
Batter
1 cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened
2 cups sugar
4 eggs, beaten
2 cups sour cream (not low-fat)
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Blend the filling ingredients together and set aside.
In the mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, then add the sour cream and vanilla. Mix until smooth. Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; stir gently to combine, then mix thoroughly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Mix until smooth. Turn out half the batter into 4 well-greased 8- or 9-inch loaf pans. Sprinkle on half of the filling, then add the rest of the batter. Proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Wonder Cake
Although this recipe appears to be long, it’s really not hard to make. Just follow along one step at a time. When properly prepared, you will end up with a wonderfully light and tasty cake with a pleasant surprise: There are swirls of chocolate cake marbleized through the loaf and some swirls are not cake at all but real chocolate. It’s a wonder! Use the cream of tartar to stabilize the meringue.
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine, softened
1¾ cups cake flour
2 eggs plus 2 egg yolks
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup milk, soy milk, or water
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup egg whites (3 to 4 egg whites) Pinch of cream of tartar, or splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice
6 ounces semisweet chocolate bits (about 1 cup)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, lightly cream or rub in ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the butter, and ½ cup of the flour. Beat in the eggs and egg yolks one at a time. Mix in the remaining 1¼ cups flour, the baking powder, and the salt. Slowly add the milk and vanilla, then beat thoroughly. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Slowly add the remaining ¼ cup sugar and the cream of tartar. Beat until stiff peaks form and the egg whites are shiny and barely begin to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Do not overwhip (see this page). With a spatula mix about a quarter of the meringue into the batter. Gently fold the whites into the batter. Do not beat.
MAKING UP Meanwhile, melt the chocolate in a double boiler, in a microwave oven, or in a saucepan over a flame tamer (heat diffuser). Let cool slightly, then drizzle the melted chocolate in spirals over the top of the finished batter in the mixing bowl. With a spatula, quickly swirl the chocolate down through the batter to marbleize. Do not overmix.
BAKER’S SECRET
You want to keep some chocolate from blending fully into the batter. When the cake is being eaten, folks are supposed to wonder how it was baked with strands of rich unmelted chocolate on the inside.
Grease two 8- or 9-inch loaf pans, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease the bottoms again and dust them with flour. Carefully scoop the batter into the prepared pans, filling them two-thirds full. In my bakery, we drizzled extra melted chocolate over the tops and ran some thin lengthwise lines through the batter with a knife, creating a marbleized design.
BAKING Bake until browned and the center feels firm when gently pressed with a fingertip (45 to 60 minutes). Don’t burn your finger on any hot melted chocolate that may be on the top. (If you forget, welcome to the club.) Let cool for 5 to 10 minutes in the pans, then remove and let cool completely on wire racks.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the work bowl, lightly cream or rub in ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the butter, and ½ cup of the flour. Beat in the eggs and egg yolks one at a time. Mix in the remaining 1¼ cups flour, the baking powder, and the salt. With the machine running, slowly add the milk and vanilla and process until thoroughly mixed. Transfer the batter to a large mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Slowly add the remaining ¼ cup sugar and the cream of tartar. Beat until stiff peaks form and the egg whites are shiny. Gently fold the whites into the batter. Proceed as in Making Up and Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
For half the yield, use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. Those smaller quantities will work fine in a stand mixer.
1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, softened
3½ cups cake flour
4 eggs plus 4 egg yolks
2½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup milk, soy milk, or water
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup egg whites (7 to 8 egg whites)
Pinch of cream of tartar, or splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice
12 ounces semisweet chocolate bits (about 2 cups)
Shortening or vegetable oil, for greasing pans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the mixing bowl, lightly cream or rub in 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the butter, and 1 cup of the flour. Beat in the eggs and egg yolks one at a time. Add the remaining 2½ cups flour, the baking powder, and the salt; mix until incorporated. Stir down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then mix until smooth. Slowly add the milk and vanilla, then beat thoroughly. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Slowly add the remaining ½ cup sugar and the cream of tartar. Beat until stiff peaks form and the egg whites are shiny. With a spatula mix in about a quarter of the merinque into the batter. Gently fold the whites into the cake mixture, taking care not to beat any of the air out. Proceed as in Making Up and Baking, above, except use 4 pans.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Hazelnut Raspberry Loaf
Hazelnuts, also known as filberts, are made into a very fine, very rich nut butter called praline paste. It is expensive but a little bit goes a long way. Almond paste can be used as an alternative, but the praline, in my opinion, is undeniably in a class of its own. In baking, both of these nut butters are complemented by pure raspberry jam.
1 cup plus 1½ teaspoons sugar
¼ cup praline paste (praline butter) or almond paste (see this page and Note)
¾ cup unsalted butter or margarine
6 eggs, beaten
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup ground toasted hazelnuts (filberts; see this page)
1 cup Wine Loaf batter (optional; this page)
1½ cups fresh cake crumbs or bread crumbs
Pure raspberry jam, for topping
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, cream the sugar with the praline paste and butter. Beat in the eggs one-third at a time. Add the salt, vanilla, flour, hazelnuts, Wine Loaf batter, and cake crumbs; mix well. Grease a rimmed baking sheet, then line it with parchment or waxed paper. Grease again and dust with flour. Turn out the batter onto the prepared baking sheet.
BAKING Bake until the crust has color and the center is firm when gently pressed with a fingertip (about 45 minutes). Let cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack. Refrigerate on the baking sheet for several hours or, preferably, freeze overnight.
Before serving, turn out onto a board or the back of a baking sheet; loosen the sides by inserting a spatula along the edges, then invert and tap lightly to release. You may have to place the pan in a warm oven for several minutes to release. When inverted, remove any paper still clinging to the cake. Proceed with the cake in the inverted position. Cut the sheet in half, trim the crusts, and crumble them by pressing through a coarse sieve or grater. Spread raspberry jam atop one portion of the cake, carefully slide the other half on top, then spread more raspberry jam on top. Cover with the fresh cake crumbs. Cut in half lengthwise. Dust with the confectioners’ sugar and serve.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.
NOTE Make praline paste from hazelnuts (filberts) as you would make peanut butter in a blender or food processor. First, toast the nuts lightly, then rub in a clean towel to remove as much of the skins as possible. Run in the blender in small batches until it turns into a paste or nut butter. Do the same in the food processor, though it’s possible to do the entire batch at one time. Or you can use store-bought praline paste (available in fine European gourmet shops or on the Internet). Almond paste, as a substitute, is available in supermarkets and specialty food shops, or you can make your own (this page). As a last resort, you can use peanut butter.

FOOD PROCESSOR: STEEL BLADE
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the work bowl, cream the sugar with the praline paste and butter. Beat in the eggs one-third at a time. Add the salt, vanilla, flour, ground hazelnuts, Wine Loaf batter, and cake crumbs; mix well. Grease a rimmed baking sheet, then line it with parchment or waxed paper. Grease again and dust with flour. Turn out the batter onto the prepared baking sheet and proceed as in Baking, above.
YIELD Makes 2 loaves.

STAND MIXER: FLAT BEATER
For half the yield, use the ingredients list in the hand-mixed version. Those smaller quantities will work fine in a stand mixer.
2 cups plus 1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup praline paste (praline butter) or almond paste (see this page and Note above)
1½ cups unsalted butter or margarine
12 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups ground toasted hazelnuts (filberts; see this page)
2 cups Wine Loaf batter (optional; this page)
3 cups fresh cake crumbs or bread crumbs
Pure raspberry jam, for topping Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In the mixing bowl, blend the sugar with the praline paste. Cream with the butter. Beat in the eggs one-third at a time. Add the salt, vanilla, flour, ground hazelnuts, Wine Loaf batter, and cake crumbs; mix well. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then mix until smooth. Grease 2 baking sheets, then line them with parchment or waxed paper. Grease again and dust with flour. Turn out the batter onto the prepared baking sheets. Proceed as in Baking, above, except place one full sheet of cake atop the other and cut the sheet into fourths.
YIELD Makes 4 loaves.
Apricot Nut Loaf
Nuts and reconstituted dried fruit make this loaf so interesting. Whole wheat flour adds nutritional value and enhances the taste.
1 cup boiling water
1 cup coarsely chopped dried apricots
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons orange or apricot liqueur (optional)
¾ cup milk or water
11 cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted (see this page), plus more for topping
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Pour the boiling water over the chopped apricots and set aside to soften for 15 minute