
BY JULIA CHILD, SIMONE BECK, AND LOUISETTE BERTHOLLE
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (1961)
VOLUME ONE
BY JULIA CHILD
The French Chef Cookbook (1968)
From Julia Child’s Kitchen (1975)
Julia Child & Company (1978)
Julia Child & More Company (1979)
The Way to Cook (1989)
Cooking with Master Chefs (1993)
In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs (1995)
Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom (2000)
My Life in France, with Alex Prud’homme (2006)
BY JULIA CHILD AND JACQUES PÉPIN
Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home (1999)
BY SIMONE BECK
Simca’s Cuisine (1972)
These are Borzoi Books, published in New York by Alfred A. Knopf
Illustrations by
SIDONIE CORYN
BASED ON PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL CHILD
WHO ALSO CONTRIBUTED 36 DRAWINGS TO THE TEXT

VOL. 11
PUBLISHED OCTOBER 22, 1970
HARDCOVER EDITION REPRINTED THIRTY-SEVEN TIMES
THIRTY-NINTH PRINTING, JANUARY 2011
THIS IS A BORZOI BOOK
PUBLISHED BY ALFRED A. KNOPF, INC.
Copyright © 1970, 1983 by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in the United States by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto. Distributed by Random House, Inc., New York. Manufactured in the United States of America
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
Child, Julia.
Mastering the art of French cooking.
Rev. ed. of: Mastering the art of French cooking
by Simone Beck, Louisette Bertholle, Julia Child.
Vol. 2 by Julia Child and Simone Beck.
Includes index.
1. Cookery, French. I. Bertholle, Louisette.
II. Beck, Simone. III. Beck, Simone.
Mastering the art of French cooking. IV. Title.
TX719.C454 1983 641.5944 83–48113
ISBN 0-394-53628-2 (set)
ISBN 0-394-72114-4 (pbk.: set)
ISBN 0-394-53399-2 (v. 1)
ISBN 0-394-72178-0 (pbk.: v. 1)
ISBN 0-394-40152-2 (v. 2)
ISBN 0-394-72177-2 (pbk.: v. 2)
eISBN: 978-0-307-95818-1
v3.1
Jacket design by Jason Booher, based on an original design by Jay J. Smith Design Studio, Inc.
To
Alfred Knopf
who is as much an appreciator of good writing, type faces, layout, and paper as he is of fresh foie gras, truite au bleu, and Meursault Les Perrières. In short, he is the ideal publisher for this kind of book, just as he is the ideal dinner guest for those who have mastered the art of French cooking.
Foreword
MASTERING ANY ART is a continuing process, and that explains Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume II, which came about in the following way. When the idea of our first book was forming in the early 1950’s, we were so naïve as to propose not only to ourselves but also to an indulgent publisher, who invested two hundred and fifty dollars in the project, a complete one-volume treatise covering the whole of la cuisine française. After laboring for six years it was clear that our detailed method of approach called for a multivolume study; we therefore sent our publisher eight hundred pages of manuscript on French sauces and French poultry. This early outpouring was quickly rejected as unpublishable, although it covered every conceivable sauce and every imaginable poultry detail, including such marginal esoterica as advice on what to do if you have a bloodless canard for the duck press—we shall not reveal the solution other than to say it involved a quick trip to the slaughterhouse. That first publishing rebuff, cruel as it was, shook us into a more rational and realistic approach. Meanwhile, we had opened our cooking school in Paris, L’Ecole des Trois Gourmandes, first located in a rooftop kitchen on the rue de l’Université and later in the comfortable apartment of Louisette, the third member of our team. Now married to Henri de Nalèche, and living in the beautiful hunting country near Bourges, La Sologne, Louisette did not collaborate with us on Volume II. It was through her inspiration, however, that we three started both the first book and the school together.
The cooking school catapulted us into almost all areas of French cooking, because you cannot teach the subject and not include the standard dishes that everyone has heard about—quiche lorraine, onion soup, boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, sole bonne femme, mousse au chocolat, and soufflé Grand Marnier—to name a very familiar handful. Thus Volume I in its final form was the natural result of our teaching. It also goes into the fundamental techniques of la cuisine bourgeoise, meaning expert French home-style cooking—how to make the flour and butter roux for the sauce velouté, how to beat egg whites and fold them into the soufflé to get the maximum puff, how to sauté the meat so that it will brown, and the mushrooms so they will not exude their juice, how to peel and seed the tomato, boil the beans, peel the asparagus, and fold the omelette. Volume I is, in fact, a long introduction to French cooking, and anyone who has mastered it has covered most of the primary methods and recipes.
Volume II is a continuation. But rather than continuing on every front, we have selected seven subjects, and having so long ago rejected complete treatises, we have pursued each only in the directions that we felt were most useful or interesting. We wanted to add to the repertoire of informal vegetable soups, for example, and these take up a large part of the first chapter. We felt the need for a fine lobster bisque; this gave rise to a study of lobster cutting, and in turn led us to crabs, which are not adequately explored in most recipes (the whole matter of crab tomalley is almost never mentioned, yet it is every bit as precious as lobster tomalley). Then, although we adore bouillabaisse (which is in Volume I), there are other French fish stews that make marvelous one-dish meals, so we have added a marmite, a matelote, and a bourride. Thus the soup chapter is an enlargement in breadth.
Meat, poultry, and vegetables we have attacked in depth, following the same system of theme and variations used in Volume I, but taking it perhaps even further. Poulet poché au vin blanc, is a prime example. Ordinary pieces of frying chicken are poached in white wine and aromatic vegetables, making a deliciously non-fattening dish that you can serve informally as is, with boiled rice and a green vegetable. Nothing could be simpler, yet you can take this same chicken out of the peasant kitchen, as it were, and serve it at the château. You can transform it into an elegant aspic or chaud-froid, or turn its poaching liquid into a creamy velouté and create a gratin of chicken Mornay, a splendid dish for a buffet supper. With egg yolks and cream the original chicken dish becomes a Belgian waterzooi, with garlic mayonnaise it is a chicken bourride, and with slightly different vegetable flavors but the same cooking methods it is a bouillabaisse of chicken. Thus, starting with one master technique, you are putting your cooking vocabulary to use the way it should be used, and if you are just beginning to cook, this is an exercise in recognition. You will begin to relate the sauce you used for the casserole of chicken to the velouté you made for the coquilles Saint-Jacques in another recipe, as well as to the velouté base you made for a cream of crab soup; the flavors are different, the proportions are not identical, especially for the soup, but the basic method is the same. You will recognize that sauce when you run into it again in some other guise. Again, if you are new to it, and have finally conquered your fear of scrambling the egg yolks as you stir them over the burner for that lovely custard sauce, crème anglaise, you will be nonchalant about heating egg yolks in the sauce for a bourride—or vice versa: you know what to expect, you have been there before, and, in effect, you are beginning to feel like a cook. For the experienced, we hope these ideas will start you off on further ventures in other categories.
Beef stews, veal chops and steaks, and veal stews take the same type of tour, our object being to show what you can do with reasonably priced meats for family meals as well as for entertaining. On the other hand, the luxurious tenderloin of beef also has its series of transformations. It is roasted whole, baked in a cloak of mushrooms duxelles and wine, as well as being, in another recipe, cut into slices and stuffed before roasting. Finally, in an original version of Beef Wellington, it is sliced, stuffed, and baked in a special type of brioche crust. An expensive roast of veal undergoes a group of variations, as does a whole roasting chicken, which finally appears with a boned breast and a corseting of pastry.
We hope you will enjoy the vegetable chapter as much as we do, because we have had fun with these recipes. Although there are a few of the classics, like pommes Anna and pommes duchesse, most of the recipes are originals that we have been working on for a number of years until we felt they were ripe for you and this volume. The chapter starts with broccoli, which we have treated freely à la française although it is almost unknown in France; we love its color, its flavor, and its year-round availability. We also love eggplant, not only for its beauty as a vegetable object, but also for its adaptability and versatility; we have broiled it, sautéed it in persillade, creamed it, souffléed it, served it hot, cold, stuffed, and wished we had room to do more. A lovely recipe for pumpkin-in-pumpkin introduces a group of unusual zucchini dishes stemming from sautéed chunks of it to an original clutch of grated zucchini treatments. Spinach, chard, and turnips all have representation, as do several versions of sautéed potatoes. There are stuffed onions, stuffed cabbage, stuffed zucchini, and cold stuffed artichoke hearts. Again, most of the vegetable chapter is built on themes and variations, and is designed to engender the flow of your creative juices.
Two entirely new categories are the chapters on breads and pastry doughs and on charcuterie. One is not really dining à la française without proper French bread to mop up the sauce on one’s plate, without a fine terrine or pâté to start the meal, without boudins blancs for New Year’s Eve or for the turkey stuffing. One needs also a symmetrically baked, beautifully textured sandwich bread for hors d’oeuvre, and brioches and croissants for breakfast. These everyday staples in France were once considered luxury items here and, in fact, when you buy them now in gourmet shops they are luxuries. But you can make them yourself with pride and pleasure and at a fraction of the cost.
Until our editor, in her gentle but compelling way, suggested that we really owed it to our readers to include a recipe for French bread, we had no plans at all to tackle it. Two years and some 284 pounds of flour later, we had tried out all the home-style recipes for French bread we could find, we had two professional French textbooks on baking, we had learned many things about yeasts and doughs, yet our best effort, which was a type of peasant sourdough loaf, still had little to do with real French bread. Then we met Professor Calvel of the Ecole Française de Meunerie in Paris, and it was like the sun in all his glory suddenly breaking through the shades of gloom. Fortunately those two years on the wrong road had been useful, because as soon as Professor Calvel started in, we knew what he was talking about, even though every step in the bread-making process was entirely different from anything we had heard of, read of, or seen. His dough was soft and sticky; he let it rise slowly twice, to triple its original volume—the dough must ripen to develop its natural flavor and proper texture. Forming the dough into its long-loaf or round-loaf shapes was a fascinating process, and so logical; slashing the top of the risen loaves before sliding them into the oven was another special procedure.
This was a tremendously exciting day for us, as you can imagine. We now knew we could succeed, because we had seen and felt with our own hands so clearly where we had failed. We rushed home and went to work again while Professor Calvel’s teaching was vividly with us. There remained the problem of working out the formula with American all-purpose bleached flour instead of the softer French unbleached flour. There was also the matter of adapting the home oven by some simple means into a simulated baker’s oven, with a hot surface for the bread to bake on, and some kind of effective steam contraption. Although you can produce a presentable loaf without these two professional oven requirements, you will not get quite the high rise or quite the crust. Paul Child and his usual Yankee ingenuity solved the hot baking surface by lining the oven rack with red quarry tiles, which he heated up with the oven; he created a great burst of steam by placing a pan of water in the bottom of the oven, and dropping a red-hot brick into it. The flour problem solved itself; although our maître loathes bleached flours, we found, thank heaven, that the familiar brands of all-purpose bleached flour work remarkably well. We are thus delighted to report that you can make marvelous French bread in your own kitchen with ordinary American ingredients and equipment.
Pastry doughs, pâte brisée and pâte feuilletée, also go hand in hand with cooking and eating traditions in France. While packaged dough mixes and frozen adaptations can certainly serve in emergencies, it is part of your training as a cook that you be able to turn out at least the dough for a pastry shell as a matter of course. It is actually, we think, when you have made the dough for your first quiche or tart, and have been complimented enthusiastically and specifically on the crust, that you begin to feel you are stepping out of the kindergarten and into a more advanced class of cooking. If you have had troubles or qualms, therefore, about handmade dough, try the recipe here; the electric mixer or food processor works quickly and beautifully. And if you have hesitated to tackle the traditional flan ring lined with dough and weighted down with foil and beans, try the upside-down cake-pan method, which is an easy way to make pastry shells. Furthermore, the egg formula in the recipe makes a deliciously crisp, tender, buttery crust.
As soon as you feel confident with pie-crust dough, we urge you to take on the larger and more fascinating challenge of pâte feuilletée. This is the French puffing dough, which consists of hundreds of very thin layers of flour paste separated by hundreds of layers of butter; it rises in the oven to several times its original height, to form vol-au-vent and patty shells, puffed entrées like the cheese tart, as well as the cookies, and the tarts and desserts. Properly made, it is flakily tender, and a delight to both tongue and palate. Although few French home cooks make puff pastry, since they can buy freshly baked feuilletées at their local pâtisseries, it is something that you, as a cook, will find tremendously useful all the rest of your kitchen life. We have spent years on puff pastry ourselves, wanting to make sure that the recipe in this book would be as good with American flour as it is with French flour—the trouble with American all-purpose flour being that it has a higher gluten content than French flour, and that makes differences all along the line. We worked out combinations of unbleached pastry flour and all-purpose flour, we have tried instant-blending flour, and we have finally settled on a mixture of regular all-purpose flour and cake flour as being the most sensible. Although it takes a little longer to work with, it produces a beautifully tender, high-rising dough that is even more impressive, we think, than its French counterpart. The illustrated recipe for simple puff pastry is easy to follow, and we suggest your first creation be a handsome puff pastry tart, the cheese, or the jam. Both of them are quick to form, yet give a very handsome effect to start you off in a whirl of success.
Our forefathers did the kind of cooking in Chapter V, Charcuterie, if they lived on a farm and made their own sausages and cured their own pork. Few French householders, again, attempt any of this today, because they can buy all kinds of sausages chez le charcutier, as well as salted pork, preserved goose, sausage in brioche, molds of parslied ham, fresh liver pâté, terrines, and all the other marvelous concoctions that embellish French gastronomical life. The particularly wonderful taste of these creations is derived from the fact that they are freshly made, on the premises. We, who want to partake of the same pleasures, must make our own. And for anyone who enjoys cooking, producing charcuterie, like making bread and pastry, is a deeply satisfying occupation. You will be amazed, if you have never tried your own before, how rewarding just a homemade sausage patty can be; it is only freshly ground pork mixed with salt and spices, but it tastes the way one dreams sausage meat should taste. The large saucissons à cuire, will make you think of France, as will the jambon persillé. When you want a real cassoulet, you can make the real confit d’oie, and have enough preserved goose left in the crock for many more meals. The difficult Christmas present or the gifts to hostesses need bother you no more—bring along one of your own pâtés en croûte.
The final chapter contains favorite desserts and cakes that we have been testing out on our guinea pigs—our students and families—for a number of years. The frozen desserts, so useful for all of us who need attractive finales that we may complete well in advance, are made without benefit of the ice-cream freezer; they vary in complexity from quickly made fruit sherbets to an elegant chocolate mousse dressed in meringues, and a flaming French baked Alaska, la surprise du Vésuve. We also give you a group of original fruit desserts, custards, and a liqueur-soaked French shortcake, a number of handsome desserts made with puff pastry, and a selection of petits fours. Among the eight cakes at the end of the chapter are a fine French honey bread, pain d’épices, a walnut cake, a beautiful meringue-nut layer cake called variously Le Succès, Le Progrès, or La Dacquoise, and two chocolate cakes. It will be for you to judge whether we have achieved the ultimate in chocolate with La Charlotte Africaine or with Le Glorieux, or whether that perennial cake winner made of chocolate and almonds, La Reine de Saba, in Volume I, still retains the title.
In all of our recipes, and especially in those for desserts and cakes, we have taken full advantage of modern mechanical aids wherever we have found them effective. While Volume I reflects France in the 1950’s and the old traditions of French cooking, Volume II, like France herself, has stepped into contemporary life. We must admit, in Volume I, to a rather holy and Victorian feeling about the virtues of sweat and elbow grease—that only paths of thorns lead to glory, il faut souffrir pour être belle and all that. However, we are teachers; we want people to learn. And if we make it hard to cook through snobbish insistence on always beating egg whites by hand in a copper bowl, for instance, or always mixing pastries by hand (il faut mettre la main dans la pâte), when it is the hot hand that makes all the trouble, we know we have already lost a great part of our audience. We have therefore developed our own methods for machine-beaten egg whites, for machine-made cakes, and there are directions for doing all the pastries and doughs by machine as well as by hand. Because machines make cooking so much easier, and because recipes that take tedious effort by hand—like quenelles, mousses, and meringues—can be done in minutes by machine, we urge you to provide yourself with the best you can afford, and refer you to the illustrated suggestions.
We have so far said hardly a word about the illustrations, which are, to our mind, the glory of Volume II. We can speak of them without a hint of modesty because they are the result of a remarkable feat of teamwork between Paul Child, our action photographer, and Sidonie Coryn, our illustrator. Because of their tireless expertise we have been able to picture step-by-step operations that to our knowledge have never been adequately illustrated before; we now feel confident that this combined visual and verbal presentation makes absolutely clear the most complicated sounding process. For French bread alone there are 34 drawings, showing the procedure from the start: mixing the dough, kneading it, how it looks when risen, how to deflate it, and the intricacies of forming the dough into various loaf shapes. Tenderloin of beef is pictured in such detail that you can buy a whole one and trim it yourself. With an illustrated guide before you, you can bone out the breast of a chicken, trim and tie a saddle of lamb, or cut up a lobster. Puff pastry and croissants are illustrated every step of the way, as are brioches and bouchées. You can see how to form upside-down pastry shells, how to stuff a whole cabbage leaf by leaf, and if you have never done or even seen a pâté en croûte in your life, you can be assured of success, because you have 12 drawings to show you every necessary move.
Without the team of Child and Coryn such coverage would have been impossible. Paul Child, ready at a moment’s notice, was there to make careful, detailed, perfect photographs of any step of any recipe at any time during the day or night. Occasionally, when on-the-spot drawings served better than photographs, he contributed his talents to such techniques as the art of cutting up lobsters and crabs, carving a saddle of lamb, or depicting the bone structure of a breast of veal, and he was happy to draw the tricky arrangement of an eggplant dish that our words alone had confused. The major load of illustrating fell, of course, to Sidonie Coryn—her 458 drawings for this book are an incredible achievement. From grapefruit knives and cake pans to the step-by-step illustrations for a Pithiviers and Dacquoise, from electric mixers and garlic presses to the intricacies of a poularde en soutien-gorge, she has skillfully and stylishly drawn the essence of Paul Child’s photographs, eliminating nonessentials and putting the right emphasis on the points of crucial interest.
Words and pictures must be arranged carefully on a page if they are to communicate all that they intend. Again we authors may speak with gratitude of the loving attention that has gone into the layout and typography of this book. Now, when you have a long sequence of illustrated events to follow, like cutting and forming croissants or stuffing sausages, the whole operation of one particular step will be open before you, and you will not have to stop to turn the pages with a sticky finger nearly so often. This is a tighter setup than that for Volume I; although the type is the same size, the illustrations are more closely integrated with the text so that words and pictures can be absorbed more easily, and once you have mastered a technique, a glance at the illustrations will serve as sufficient reminder. The art work and production in this book contribute greatly to the understanding of cookery, we think, and we are pleased that our publisher has been willing to take the time and space, as well as the expense, to present recipes with such intelligent elegance.
We have little else to add to this leisurely meander. Words of advice, such as “Do read the recipe before you start in to cook,” “Be sure your oven thermostat is accurate,” and other sage admonitions are in the foreword to Volume I. We shall therefore only repeat the hope that you will keep your knives sharp and that, above all, you will have a good time.
Best wishes and bon appétit!
S. B. and J. C.
Paris and Cambridge
June 1971
FOREWORD TO THE SECOND EDITION
Volume II has needed only a few changes in this new edition. We’ve brought in the food processor for dough making, added a little more butter to the croissants, a little more sugar on top of the puff pastry cookies, and changed the weight of a leg of lamb to conform with the modern mode. Otherwise it is as before, the classic cuisine of France, continued.
S. B. and J. C.
Bramafam and Santa Barbara
February 1983
Acknowledgments
OUR FRIENDS, students, families, and husbands have continued to act graciously and courageously as guinea pigs throughout the accumulation of years since Volume I began and Volume II came to its fruition; we owe them very special thanks. Again the U.S. Department of Agriculture has been a wonderful source of assistance, as has the U.S. Bureau of Fisheries, especially its Boston Branch. We are also grateful to the National Livestock and Meat Board for technical advice on many occasions, and we are deeply indebted to R. A. Seelig of the United Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Association, whose bulletins and letters have taught us so many things we never knew before. Gladys Christopherson has been our faithful and cheerful manuscript typer, putting neatly onto paper the scrawls and spots of working copy; we thank her every finger. Avis DeVoto, still acting as foster mother, wet nurse, guide, and mentor, has also taken on the copy editing for our side, as well as the position of indexer-in-chief; our admiration and gratitude can only be expressed by her weight in fresh truffles. Paul Child, tireless photographer at a moment’s notice, pinch-hitting illustrator, clever turner of phrases when the well is dry—we can only continue to love him and to feed him well. We have also our peerless editor, Judith Jones, to thank most sincerely and affectionately; her conception of the book has produced what you now hold in your hands.
Illustrations
Illustrations by Sidonie Coryn
Technical Drawings by Paul Child
CHAPTER I
CHAPTER II
Making simple puff pastry (demi-feuilletée)
CHAPTER III
Suckling pig roasting positions
CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
Cutting and arranging eggplant slices for a gratin
Stuffing individual cabbage leaves
CHAPTER VII
Le Saint-Cyr (chocolate mousse molded in meringue)
forming, stuffing, and cutting
Making a paper decorating cone
APPENDIX TWO
Colander, kettles, and marmites
Gratin dishes and roasting pans
Bashers, bludgeons, and blunt instruments
for grinding pepper and pressing garlic
Electric mixer and attachments
Rolling pins, croissant cutter, and pastry marble
Pastry brush, scrapers, and a blender
Pastry cutters and a pastry pricker
Flan rings and vol-au-vent cutters
Soufflé dishes and baking dishes
Miscellaneous small baking molds
This symbol preceding a recipe title indicates that variations follow.
(*) Wherever you see this symbol in the body of recipe texts you may prepare the dish ahead of time up to that point, then complete the recipe later.
CHAPTER ONE
Soups from the Garden—Bisques and Chowders from the Sea
THERE IS HARDLY A MAN ALIVE who does not adore soup, particularly when it is homemade. Hot soup on a cold day, cold soup on a hot day, and the smell of soup simmering in the kitchen are fundamental, undoubtedly even atavistic, pleasures and solaces that give a special kind of satisfaction.
Although many of us think immediately of French onion soup when we put France and soups together in our minds, informal vegetable combinations are far more typical of that best of all cuisines—the cooking one finds in French homes and small family-style restaurants. Leek and Potato Soup, the potage Parmentier, and its numerous variations in Volume I, is the most typical of all, but there are many other vegetable combinations, including spinach, cucumbers, green peppers, celery, peas and pea pods, even eggplant, that are interesting, unusual, easy to make, and delicious to serve. In many of these soups the vegetables are simmered in water rather than meat or poultry stock because water does not disguise the natural taste of a subtle vegetable like asparagus, for example. We shall begin with a group of these, follow with an opulent series of bisques and other shellfish soups, and end with three hearty fish stews, each one a meal in itself.
A NOTE ON PURÉEING
Most soups need puréeing at some point in the cooking, and we think the best puréeing instrument is the imported vegetable mill that has interchangeable disks illustrated in the appendix. It is very efficient even with somewhat tough items like asparagus stems; it also performs the important function of holding back stringy fibers that you would otherwise have to sieve out. To use the vegetable mill, set it over a large bowl and pour the soup from saucepan through the mill, to strain liquid from solids; pour the liquid back into the saucepan. Purée the solid ingredients, adding some of the liquid now and then to ease their passage; scrape any adhering purée off the bottom of the machine and into the bowl, then pour contents of bowl into saucepan. (Some electric mixers come with puréeing attachments that work very well.)
If you prefer an electric blender or processor, pour liquid off solids and into a bowl; ladle a cup or so of the solids and a cup of the liquid into the container. Purée by turning the machine on and off every second or two to avoid that too-smooth effect of baby food, since you will usually want the soup to have some texture. Then, if you are doing a fibrous vegetable like asparagus butts or pea pods, strain all of the soup through a sieve just fine enough to hold back the fibers. A little experimentation and always an analytical sampling of the soup yourself will tell you what you need to do.
SOUP THICKENERS—LIAISONS
Puréed soups need a binder or liaison, which thickens the soup liquid enough so that the puréed ingredients remain in suspension rather than sinking to the bottom of the bowl. The simplest liaison is a starch of some sort, like grated potatoes, puréed rice, farina, or tapioca. Other soups, usually called veloutés, are thickened with a flour-and-butter roux. A more elegant liaison is raw egg yolks, which, when beaten into and heated with the soup, thicken it lightly. All of these liaisons are more or less interchangeable, and which one to use depends on what effect and taste you want to achieve.
ENRICHMENTS
Butter, cream, and, again, egg yolks, alone or in combination, are stirred into many soups just before serving. They give a final smoothness and delicacy of taste. You can omit them if you wish, or use just a small amount.
Sour cream, if you prefer less butter fat, may often be substituted for heavy cream. But crème fraîche is the perfect soup enrichment: mix 2 parts heavy cream with 1 part sour cream, let thicken at room temperature (5–6 hours), and refrigerate (keeps 10 days).
LEFTOVERS, CANNED SOUPS, AND IMPROVISATIONS
When you are the cook in the family, plan your vegetables ahead so that you will have leftovers for soup; it will save you a great deal of time, and make you feel remarkably clever besides. Extra rice, pasta, and creamed or mashed potatoes are always needed as thickeners, while onions and mushrooms can always be added for flavor. Leftover cauliflower, for instance, can be combined with watercress to make a delicious soup; spinach is the main ingredient for the velouté Florentine; white beans or eggplant go into the soupe à la Victorine. Save also any extra bits of sauce or meat juices; these often provide that extra depth of taste and personality you are searching for. For example, a few tablespoons of leftover sauce from a chicken fricassee would be delicious in the Cream of Celery Soup; you could certainly stir hollandaise instead of butter into the potage aux champignons; and some juices saved from the roast would enhance any onion soup. Finally, save any leftover soup; you can add it to a new one, or use it to give a homemade touch to canned soups.
GREEN SOUPS FROM GREEN VEGETABLES
POTAGE, CRÉME D’ASPERGES VERTES
[Cream of Fresh Green Asparagus Soup]
At the peak of the asparagus season, when you can bear not to eat it whole, here is a marvelous soup to catch all the essence of that beautiful vegetable.
For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The onion flavoring
⅔ to ¾ cup sliced onions
4 Tb butter
A 3-quart heavy-bottomed stainless saucepan with cover
While you are preparing the asparagus, cook the onions slowly in the butter for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Set aside.
2) Preparing the asparagus
About 2 lbs. fresh green asparagus (24 to 28 spears 8 by ¾ inches)
Slice ¼ inch off the butt of each asparagus. Peel the skin from the butt ends up to where the green begins, and remove scales. Wash thoroughly in warm water. Cut the tops 3 inches long and set aside. Cut the lower part of the asparagus stalks into ¾-inch crosswise pieces.
3) Blanching the asparagus
6 cups water
2 tsp salt
A 3-quart saucepan
A salad or vegetable basket or 2 slotted spoons
Bring the water and salt to a rapid boil, add the asparagus stalks and boil slowly, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Remove and drain, reserving the water, and stir the stalks into the cooked onions; cover and cook slowly for 5 minutes. Meanwhile bring the water back to the boil, add the reserved asparagus tops and boil slowly, uncovered, for 6 to 8 minutes or until just tender. Remove immediately and drain. Set aside, reserving water for the soup base.
4) The soup base
4 Tb flour
The asparagus blanching water
1 cup or so of milk if needed
After the stalks and onions have stewed together for 5 minutes, uncover the pan, stir in the flour to mix thoroughly, and cook slowly, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat and blend in half a cup of the hot blanching water; gradually stir in the rest, being sure not to add any sand that may be at the bottom of the pan. Simmer slowly, partially covered, for about 25 minutes or until the stalks are very tender. If soup seems too thick, thin out with milk.
5) Finishing the soup
The blanched asparagus tops
A food mill with medium disk (or an electric blender and sieve)
A 3-quart bowl
½ to ⅔ cup heavy cream
2 to 3 egg yolks
A wire whip
Salt and white pepper to taste
Line up the blanched asparagus tops and cut the tip ends into ¼-inch crosswise slices; reserve as a garnish. Purée the rest of the tops and the soup base into a bowl. (Pass soup through sieve to remove any fibers, if you have used a blender.) Pour the cream into the saucepan, blend in the egg yolks with a wire whip; by driblets, beat in 2 cups of the hot soup. Pour in the rest of the soup, and the sliced tip ends.
(*) May be cooked ahead to this point; set aside uncovered until cool, then cover and refrigerate.
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Shortly before serving, set over moderate heat and stir slowly with a wooden spoon, reaching all over the bottom of the pan until soup comes almost to the simmer. Remove from heat, carefully correct seasoning, and stir in the enrichment butter half a tablespoon at a time. Serve immediately.
Cold Asparagus Soup
Omit the final butter enrichment and oversalt slightly. Stir several times as the soup cools, then cover and chill. Blend in more cream, if you wish, just before serving.
Using frozen asparagus
Frozen asparagus can never achieve the magic of fresh asparagus, but you can still turn out an excellent soup. Follow the Master Recipe, making the changes in each step as indicated.
1) Increase the sliced onions to 2¼ cups in this step, or use a combination of onions and leeks.
2) A 10-ounce package frozen cut green asparagus
A 10-ounce package whole frozen green asparagus spears
Use the cut asparagus to replace the stalks and the whole spears to replace the tops.
3) 2 cups chicken stock
Optional: big pinch of monosodium glutamate
Substitute 2 cups of chicken stock for 2 cups of the water called for in this step, and a little MSG will probably be useful. Drop the cut asparagus into the boiling liquid for a minute or two, merely to defrost them, then add to the onions. Boil the whole spears until just tender.
4 and 5) Follow Master Recipe
Fresh white European asparagus
European asparagus is either all white or tinged with mauve or green near the tip, depending on the variety. Since the peel is often slightly bitter as well as being much tougher than that of all-green asparagus, peeling is essential. Peel each spear 1⁄16 of an inch deep up to the tender part near the tip. After boiling the stalks, taste the cooking liquid; if it is bitter, discard it and use fresh boiling water for cooking the tops. Although the soup would normally be a pale cream color, you may turn it green by puréeing into it a cup of blanched chard or spinach leaves.
SOUPE BELLE POTAGÈRE
[Pea-pod Soup]
You can make an excellent green pea soup using both pods and peas. Next time you are shelling them, and have crackling fresh pods, keep out the greenest and best of the lot, wrap them in a plastic bag, and refrigerate for a soup the next day. A cup of shelled peas would be nice, too, but frozen ones will do for the garnish.
For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The onion flavoring
1 cup sliced leeks and onions or onions only
3 Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed, 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
Cook the leeks or onions slowly in the butter for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Set aside.
2) The pea-pod soup base
1 lb. fresh green peas with very crisp pods
Pulling off and discarding stems and tips from the pea pods, shell the peas and set aside—you should have about 1 cup. Wash pods and chop roughly into 1-inch pieces, making about 4 cups. Stir the chopped pods into the leeks and onions, cover and cook slowly for 10 minutes.
3 Tb flour
4 cups hot water
1½ tsp salt
1 large potato, peeled and sliced (about 1 cup)
Blend the flour into the pea pods and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat, gradually blend in 1 cup of the hot water, then stir in the rest along with the salt and sliced potatoes. Simmer, partially covered, for about 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender.
3) The peas
1 cup fresh peas (or a 10-ounce package of frozen peas)
A heavy-bottomed 6- to 8-cup saucepan with cover
1½ cups water for fresh peas; ½ cup for frozen peas
1 large sliced scallion or shallot
6 to 8 large outside leaves of Boston lettuce, chopped
1 Tb butter
¼ tsp salt
For fresh peas: Boil them in the covered saucepan with the water, scallion, lettuce, and other ingredients for 10 to 15 minutes or until peas are just tender, adding 2 to 3 tablespoons more water if liquid evaporates entirely before peas are done; uncover and set aside.
For frozen peas: Cook the same way but with only ½ cup water, and boil only long enough for the peas to be tender.
4) Finishing the soup
A food mill set over a bowl (or an electric blender and sieve)
A cup or so of milk if needed
Salt, white pepper, and sugar to taste
¼ cup or more of heavy cream or sour cream
Purée the peas, then the soup base. If you are using a blender, sieve the soup base after puréeing to remove pea-pod fibers. Return to saucepan, bring to simmer, and thin out with milk if soup seems too thick. Taste carefully for seasoning, and add pinches of sugar to taste, which will help bring out the flavor. Stir in the cream.
(*) Set aside uncovered until cool, then cover and refrigerate.
1 to 4 Tb soft butter
Reheat to simmer just before serving. Check seasoning again, remove from heat, and stir in the butter a half tablespoon at a time. Serve immediately.
Cold Pea-pod Soup
Omit the final butter enrichment, and oversalt slightly. Stir several times as the soup cools, then cover and chill. Blend in more cream, if you wish, just before serving.
POTAGE À LA FLORENTINE
[Cream of Spinach Soup]
Fresh and frozen spinach do almost equally well in this elegant soup of spinach simmered with rice and enriched with cream and egg yolks. Since it is good hot or cold, you may use the same system for a soup of green herbs, as you will see in the variations following.
For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The soup base
½ cup sliced onions
2 Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed stainless or enameled pan with cover
Cook the onions slowly in the butter for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender but not browned.
1½ to 2 lbs. fresh spinach (or a 10 ounce package frozen spinach)
For fresh spinach, trim, wash thoroughly, and chop roughly. For frozen spinach, thaw in a large bowl of cold water, drain and squeeze dry. Stir spinach into onions; cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent spinach from scorching.
5 cups liquid (light chicken stock, or canned chicken broth and water)
⅓ cup plain raw white rice
Pinch nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
A food mill or electric blender
Chicken stock or milk if needed
Add the liquid to the spinach, bring to the boil, and stir in the rice. Season with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Simmer partially covered for 20 minutes or until rice is tender. Purée, bring again to the simmer and thin out, if too thick, with more liquid. Remove from heat.
2) Finishing the soup
A 2-quart bowl
A wire whip
½ cup heavy cream
2 egg yolks
Blend the cream and egg yolks in the bowl with the wire whip; by driblets, beat in 2 cups of the hot soup. Pour back into the saucepan.
(*) May be cooked ahead to this point. Set aside uncovered until cool, then cover and refrigerate.
Salt, pepper, and lemon juice
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Shortly before serving, set over moderate heat and stir slowly with a wooden spoon, reaching all over the bottom of the pan until soup comes almost to the simmer. Remove from heat, carefully correct seasoning, adding lemon juice if you wish; stir in the enrichment butter a teaspoon at a time. Serve immediately.
Cold Spinach Soup
Omit the final butter enrichment, and oversalt slightly. Stir several times as the soup cools, then cover and chill. Blend in more cream, if you wish, just before serving, or top each serving with a spoonful of sour cream.
VARIATION
Potage aux Herbes Panachées
[Green Herb Soup]
For those green-thumbed wonders who grow their own herbs, here is a way to show off your tarragon, chervil, flat-leaved, pungent Italian parsley, shallots, spring onions or scallions, and chives. For those of us who wish to simulate the possession of an herb garden, the supermarket combination is leeks or onions, watercress, parsley, and dried tarragon.
About 1½ cups onion flavoring (chopped shallots, scallions, onions and/or leeks)
3 Tb butter
for herb gardeners:
1 packed cup parsley including tender stems; a handful of chervil; a branch of tarragon leaves; chives
Following the system for the preceding Spinach Soup, cook the onion flavoring in butter until tender. Chop greens roughly, stir into onion flavoring and cook 1 to 2 minutes or until wilted. Then add the flour and cook 1 minute, stirring. Remove from heat, beat in the hot water, and bring to the boil. Sprinkle in the rice and the salt. Simmer 25 minutes, then purée.
for supermarket shoppers:
1½ packed cups of a combination of parsley and watercress, including tender stems, and ½ tsp dried tarragon
1 Tb flour
3 cups hot water
⅓ cup plain raw white rice
1 tsp salt
2) Finishing the soup
2 to 3 cups milk
More salt and tarragon if needed
White pepper to taste
A small saucepan
1 packed cup minced fresh greens (same combination as in Step 1)
1 Tb butter
½ cup heavy cream
2 egg yolks
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Bring soup base to the simmer; thin out to desired consistency with milk. Season carefully. In a separate saucepan, stir the minced greens and butter over moderate heat for several minutes until herbs are wilted. Remove from heat and let cool a moment, then stir in the cream; blend in the egg yolks with a wire whip, and gradually dribble in 2 cups of the hot soup base. Pour back into the saucepan. Just before serving, stir over moderate heat until soup comes almost to the simmer, correct seasoning again, remove from heat and stir in the butter.
Cold Green Herb Soup
See directions for the preceding Spinach Soup.
POTAGE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, ÎLE DE FRANCE
[Cream of Mushroom Soup II]
Cream of Mushroom Soup appeals to almost everyone, even to those who claim they hate mushrooms. This is a very simple version compared with the full-dress recipe in Volume I, page 40. Here puréed raw mushrooms simmer in an onion-flavored soup base, and if you have only a handful of stems rather than the 2 to 4 cups of fresh mushrooms specified, you will still have a delicious soup.
For 6 to 7 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The velouté soup base
½ cup finely minced onions
4 Tb butter
A 2½- to 3-quart heavy-bottomed stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
A wooden spoon
3 Tb flour
2 cups hot water
A wire whip
4 cups milk
2 tsp salt
Pinch white pepper
Big pinch tarragon
Cook the onions slowly in the butter for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat, and blend in ½ cup of the hot water with a wire whip. Gradually beat in the rest of the hot water, then the milk, seasonings, and tarragon. Bring to the simmer, stirring with wire whip; simmer very slowly for several minutes while preparing the mushrooms.
2) The mushrooms
2 to 4 cups (5 to 12 ounces) fresh whole mushrooms or just the mushroom stems
A food mill with grating disk (large holes), an electric blender, or a large knife
Trim and wash the mushrooms. If you are using a food mill with grating disk, chop the mushrooms roughly and grate directly into the soup base. If using a blender, chop roughly, and blend ½ cup at a time with an equal amount of soup base, flicking switch on and off rapidly to avoid too fine a purée. Otherwise chop the mushrooms into ⅛-inch pieces with a knife, and add to soup.
3) Finishing the soup
More milk if needed, or light chicken stock
⅓ to ½ cup or more heavy cream
Salt, white pepper, and drops of lemon juice
Simmer the soup, partially covered, for 25 minutes. Add more liquid if soup seems too thick, then stir in the cream. Carefully correct seasoning, adding drops of lemon juice if you feel they are needed.
(*) May be completed to this point. Set aside uncovered until cool, then cover and refrigerate.
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
2 to 3 Tb minced fresh tarragon and/or parsley
Bring soup to simmer again just before serving. Remove from heat and stir in first the butter, a half tablespoon at a time, then the herbs. Serve immediately.
A more elaborate garnish
Omit all or most of the cream and butter enrichments if you wish. Ladle the hot soup into bowls, drop a spoonful of sour cream in each and top with minced herbs, or with sliced or fluted mushroom caps previously simmered in water, butter, and lemon juice (Volume I, page 510).
Cold Mushroom Soup
Omit the final butter enrichment, and oversalt slightly. Stir several times as the soup cools, then cover and chill. Blend in more cream, if you wish, just before serving.
VARIATIONS
The following recipes are all for 6 to 7 cups of soup, serving 4 to 6. All may be served either hot or cold, as for the mushroom soup.
Potage de la Fontaine Dureau
[Cream of Cauliflower and Watercress Soup]
This is a delicious and unusual, as well as a pretty, soup.
1) The velouté base
1 cup sliced leeks and/or onions
4 Tb butter
3 Tb flour
6 cups liquid (hot water, or part hot water and part milk)
2 tsp salt
Pinch white pepper
Following the Master Recipe for mushroom soup, cook the onions in the butter until tender, stir in the flour and cook 1 minute, blend in the liquid, then simmer slowly while preparing the vegetables.
2) The vegetables—finishing the soup
A 6- to 7-inch head of cauliflower (1¼ to 1½ lbs.)
A large pan of boiling salted water
1 bunch watercress (about 2 packed cups)
⅓ to ½ cup or more heavy cream
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Break cauliflower into flowerettes and peel central stem; retain any tender leaves. Drop flowerettes and stem (not leaves) into the boiling water, bring rapidly back to the boil; boil uncovered for 2 minutes. Drain, add to soup base, and simmer 15 minutes. Meanwhile, discard any wilted leaves and stems from watercress, wash cress and chop roughly. After cauliflower has simmered 15 minutes, add the cress and reserved cauliflower leaves. Simmer 10 minutes more; purée. Add the cream, and correct seasoning. Reheat only just before serving, to preserve the watercress green, then remove from heat and stir in the butter enrichment.
Potage Crème aux Oignons, Soubise
This is a soup for onion lovers, and a pleasant change from the usual brown onion soup. The little touch of curry and a bit of wine give it special flavor, while the addition of rice turns it into a soubise.
1) The onion-velouté soup base
3 to 4 cups sliced onions
4 Tb butter
1 tsp curry powder
2 Tb flour
2 cups hot water
2 cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth
½ cup dry white wine or ⅓ cup dry white French vermouth
⅓ cup plain white rice
1 bay leaf
Salt and white pepper to taste
Following the Master Recipe for mushroom soup, cook the onions in the butter until tender but not browned. Add curry and cook 1 minute more, then add flour and cook 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat, beat in the hot water, then the chicken stock and the wine. Bring to simmer and sprinkle in the rice; add bay leaf, and season to taste. Simmer 30 minutes. Purée.
2) Finishing the soup
2 to 3 cups milk
⅓ to ½ cup or more heavy cream
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
2 to 3 Tb fresh minced chervil or parsley
Bring soup to the simmer. Thin out to desired consistency with milk, stir in the cream, and carefully correct seasoning. Reheat again to simmer just before serving; remove from heat and stir in the butter, then the herbs.
A POTATO-BASED SOUP
POTAGE CÉLESTINE
[Celery Soup with Potatoes, Leeks, and Rice]
This is leek and potato soup with a celery twist, and is equally good hot or cold.
For about 8 cups, serving 6 people
1) The leeks and celery
The white part of 2 medium leeks, sliced; or 1¼ cups sliced onions
3 cups sliced celery stalks
¼ tsp salt
3 Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
4 cups light chicken stock, or canned chicken broth and water
⅓ cup plain white rice
Cook the vegetables slowly with the salt and butter in the covered saucepan until tender but not browned—about 10 minutes. Add the liquid, bring to the boil, stir in the rice, and simmer uncovered for 25 minutes.
2) The potatoes
3 or 4 medium baking potatoes, peeled and chopped (about 3 cups)
2 cups water
½ tsp salt
Another heavy 3-quart saucepan
A food mill with medium disk, a potato ricer, or an electric blender
2 cups milk heated in a small pan
A wire whip and a wooden spoon
Meanwhile, boil the potatoes with the water and salt. When tender, drain their cooking water into the leeks and celery. If you are using a food mill or ricer, purée the potatoes, return to saucepan, and beat in the milk to make a smooth, white cream. If you are using a blender, purée the potatoes with a cup of the milk, pour into saucepan, and beat in the rest of the milk.
3) Finishing the soup—herb-butter and croûton garnish
⅛ teaspoon sugar (to bring out the flavor)
Salt and white pepper
Purée the leek and celery mixture with its liquid into the potato cream. Blend well with wire whip and bring to the simmer; beat in sugar and seasonings to taste.
(*) Set aside uncovered until shortly before serving.
A heated soup tureen, or a bowl and soup cups
4 to 6 Tb soft butter
3 Tb minced fresh chervil or tarragon; or minced fresh parsley and ¼ tsp crumbled dried tarragon
Bring the soup to the simmer. Mash the butter and herbs in the soup tureen (or in the bowl, and divide among your soup cups). Blend the hot soup into the herb butter, sprinkle the croûtons on top, and serve immediately.
Cold Celery Soup
Omit the butter enrichment and the croûtons; oversalt soup slightly. Mash the herbs with ¼ cup heavy cream or sour cream, stir into the soup, and chill. Stir in more chilled cream, if you wish, before serving, and decorate with fresh minced herbs or parsley.
Croûtons
[Small Cubes of Bread Sautéed in Butter]
Stale, homemade-type white bread
A baking sheet
Clarified butter (butter melted, skimmed, and poured off milky residue in bottom of pan)
A frying pan, preferably the no-stick kind
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Remove crusts and, if unsliced, cut bread into ¼-inch slices. Then cut into ¼-inch strips; cut strips crosswise to make ¼-inch cubes. Spread cubes on baking sheet and dry out in middle level of oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until outside is dry but not browning; this will prevent bread from absorbing too much butter when sautéed. Film pan with a ⅛-inch layer of clarified butter, set over moderate heat until it bubbles; add just enough bread cubes to make 1 layer. Sauté, shaking and tossing pan by handle, until cubes are a light golden brown, adding a little more butter if necessary to keep bread from burning. Let cool on paper towels.
(*) May be cooked in advance. May also be frozen, then thawed and crisped for a few minutes in a 375-degree oven.
SOUPS WITH A FARINA THICKENING
Rather than thickening soups with flour, rice, or potatoes, you may use semoule de blé, semolina, also known as farina or cream of wheat. This makes a pleasant change and also imparts its own subtle taste and texture.
POTAGE AUX CONCOMBRES
[Cream of Cucumber Soup]
The only thing to say about this soup is that it is perfectly delicious; it is especially good cold, but then it is also especially good hot.
For 6 to 7 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The cucumbers
1½ lbs. cucumbers (3, about 8 inches long)
Peel the cucumbers. Cut 18 to 24 paper-thin slices and reserve in a bowl for later. Cut the rest of the cucumbers into half-inch chunks: you will have about 4½ cups.
2) The soup
½ cup minced shallots, or a combination of shallots, scallions, and/or onions
3 Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
6 cups liquid: light chicken stock, or canned broth and water
1½ tsp wine vinegar
¾ tsp dried dill weed or tarragon
4 Tb quick-cooking farina (cream of wheat) breakfast cereal
A food mill with medium disk, or an electric blender
More liquid if necessary
Cook the shallots, scallions, or onions slowly in the butter for several minutes until tender but not browned. Add the cucumber chunks, chicken broth, vinegar, and herbs. Bring to the boil, then stir in the farina. Simmer, partially covered, for 20 to 25 minutes. Purée, and return the soup to the pan. Thin out with more liquid if necessary; season carefully with salt and pepper.
(*) May be prepared in advance to this point.
Salt and white pepper
Soup bowls
1 cup sour cream
1 to 2 Tb minced fresh dill, tarragon, or parsley
Bring to simmer just before serving, and beat in ½ cup sour cream. Ladle into soup bowls, place a dollop of sour cream in each bowl, float slices of cucumber on top of cream, and decorate with a sprinkling of herbs.
Cold Cucumber Soup
After stirring in the ½ cup sour cream, oversalt slightly and let cool uncovered, stirring occasionally. Then cover and chill. Ladle into chilled soup cups, adding a big spoonful of sour cream to each cup; float cucumber slices on top of the cream and decorate with herbs.
VARIATION
Potage aux Courgettes
You may substitute zucchini for cucumbers in the preceding soup, but do not peel them. Cut off stem and tip, scrub with a vegetable brush, and proceed exactly as for the cucumber soup. Decorate with herbs, however, rather than with zucchini slices.
POTAGE UNTEL
[Green Turnip Soup]
This is one of those soups with a marvelous and unusual flavor that is difficult to decipher unless you are told the combination. Then the tastes of turnip and greens disclose themselves. You may not find any green leaves attached to your turnips unless they grow nearby and it is turnip season, which is winter or early spring. Spinach leaves do nicely, however.
1) The turnips
1½ lbs. fresh white turnips, peeled and quartered (about 5 cups)
3 Tb butter
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1½ cups water
A heavy-bottomed 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
Boil the turnips slowly with the seasonings, butter, and water in a covered saucepan for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a knife. Uncover, raise heat, and boil to evaporate liquid; toss turnips in the butter, which remains, for 2 minutes.
2) The greens
Either 4 packed cups tender fresh turnip greens and fresh spinach;
Or a 10-ounce package of fresh spinach;
Or ½ package frozen spinach thawed in cold water and squeezed dry
2 Tb butter
A 10-inch stainless or enameled skillet
2 wooden spoons
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp sugar
Meanwhile, discard any wilted leaves from fresh greens and spinach, wash thoroughly and drain well. Heat butter in a skillet to bubbling over moderately high heat. Add greens and spinach, turn and toss with the 2 wooden spoons; sprinkle with salt and sugar and continue tossing for 2 to 3 minutes until greens are limp and fairly tender.
3) The soup
A food mill with medium disk, or an electric blender
4 cups liquid: light chicken stock, or canned broth and water
3 Tb quick-cooking farina (cream of wheat) breakfast cereal
1 to 2 cups milk
Salt and pepper
1 to 2 Tb lemon juice
Purée the 2 vegetables together and bring to simmer in turnip-cooking pan with the broth. Sprinkle in the farina and simmer 5 to 6 minutes until farina is tender. Thin out to desired consistency with milk; season carefully with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
(*) May be prepared in advance to this point.
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Bring again to simmer just before serving; remove from heat and stir in the butter a teaspoon at a time.
Alternate enrichments, cold soup
You may wish to enrich the soup with sour cream instead of butter, as for the preceding Cucumber Soup, or with cream and egg yolks as in the Spinach Soup. In any case, you may also serve it cold as suggested in both recipes.
THREE PEASANT SOUPS
POTAGE MAGALI
[Mediterranean Tomato Soup with Rice]
Typically Mediterranean, with its onions, tomatoes, garlic, saffron, and native herbs, this fragrant soup is even named after the Provençal heroine of many an operetta. It is best when tomatoes are at the season’s peak, but the hothouse type can be pepped up with a bit of tomato paste.
For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The soup base
¾ cup combination of thinly sliced leeks and onions, or onions only
3 Tb olive oil
A heavy-bottomed 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
1½ lbs. fresh, ripe, red tomatoes
4 large cloves garlic, minced or mashed
4 to 5 cups liquid: light chicken stock, or canned broth and water
¼ cup plain, raw, white rice
The following tied in washed cheesecloth: 6 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, ¼ tsp thyme, 4 fennel seeds, and, if available, 6 large fresh basil leaves
A large pinch of saffron threads
Salt and pepper
Cook the leeks and onions slowly in the oil until tender but not browned. Meanwhile, peel and halve the tomatoes, squeeze out seeds and reserve juice. Chop tomato pulp roughly and stir into the cooked leeks and onions. Add the garlic and stir over moderate heat for 3 minutes. Then add the tomato juice and liquid, bring to the boil, and sprinkle in the rice. Add the herbs and saffron; season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.
2) Finishing the soup
If necessary: pinches of sugar
1 tsp or more tomato paste
Salt and pepper
Carefully taste for seasoning, adding pinches of sugar to bring out flavor and counteract acidity, and small amounts of tomato paste if needed for color and taste. Remove herb bouquet.
(*) May be prepared ahead to this point.
2 or more Tb minced fresh basil, chervil, or parsley
SOUPE CATALANE AUX POIVRONS
[Catalonian Pepper and Leek Soup]
Another Mediterranean soup uses the same principles as the preceding potage Magali, and the same general ingredients. Here the character comes from sweet peppers rather than tomatoes, a touch of ham or salt pork, and a typically regional final liaison of egg yolks and olive oil.
For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The soup base
2½ to 3 ounces lightly smoked ham or lean salt pork, cut into ¼-inch dice (⅔ cup)
2 Tb olive oil
A heavy-bottomed 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
2 cups diced onions
2 cups thinly sliced leeks (or more onions)
1½ cups diced bell peppers, red or green
4 large cloves garlic, minced or mashed
1 Tb flour
1 quart hot water
3 to 4 cups light beef stock, or canned chicken broth
¼ cup pasta (rice- or pepper-corn shaped, or broken vermicelli), or plain white rice
A large pinch of saffron threads
¼ tsp savory
Salt and pepper
Sauté the ham or salt pork in the oil over moderate heat until it barely begins to brown, then stir in the onions and leeks. Cook slowly several minutes until fairly tender but not browned; stir in the peppers and garlic, and cook again for 3 to 4 minutes without browning. Finally sprinkle in the flour, stirring for 1 minute, and remove from heat. Blend in the hot water gradually, stir in the stock or broth, and bring to the simmer; skim off any surface scum for a minute or two, then stir in the pasta or rice. Add the saffron and savory, season to taste, and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes. Carefully correct seasoning.
(*)May be prepared ahead to this point; let cool uncovered. Bring again to the simmer just before serving. You may also make the egg-yolk and oil enrichment in advance and store it in a covered jar.
2) Finishing the soup
2 egg yolks
A wire whip
A soup tureen or large mixing bowl
¼ cup olive oil
A ladle
Beat the egg yolks in the bottom of the tureen or bowl until thick and sticky; by droplets, beat in the olive oil exactly as though you were making a thick mayonnaise. Stirring it, dribble in the hot soup until you have added 2 cups; gradually stir in the rest. Serve immediately.
SOUPE À LA VICTORINE
[Purée of White Bean Soup, Eggplant and Tomato Garnish]
This meal-in-itself will fill up the family on a cold day, especially if you include pork or sausage with the beans. The eggplant and tomato garnish makes a lively and unusual touch to an otherwise traditional bean purée.
For about 8 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) Soaking the beans—1 hour
1 quart of water
A 3-quart saucepan with cover
⅓ cup dry white beans, such as Great Northern or Small White
Bring the water to a rapid boil, drop in the beans, and bring water rapidly back to the boil again; boil uncovered for exactly 2 minutes. Remove from heat, cover pan, and let soak for exactly 1 hour. Meanwhile, you may prepare all the rest of the ingredients for the soup.
2) The soup base—1½ hours of simmering
2 cups combination of sliced leeks and onions, or onions only
3 Tb olive oil or butter
An 8-inch enameled, stainless, or no-stick frying pan
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon thyme
½ teaspoon sage
Optional: ½ lb. lean side pork (fresh unsmoked bacon), or fresh fat-and-lean pork butt (shoulder), or Italian or Polish sausage
1½ tsp salt
⅛ tsp peppercorns
A food mill or an electric blender
Cook the leeks and onions slowly in the oil or butter until tender and translucent; raise heat slightly and cook for a few minutes more until very lightly browned. As soon as the beans have had their 1-hour soak, scrape the vegetables into them, and add the rest of the ingredients for the soup base (if using sausage rather than pork, add only for last 30–40 minutes of cooking). Bring to the simmer, partially cover the pan, and cook slowly for about 1½ hours or until beans are tender. Set pork or sausage aside for final step, purée the soup, and return to the pan.
(*) May be prepared ahead; set aside uncovered until cool.
3) The eggplant and tomato garnish
A firm, shiny, 1-lb. eggplant (about 8 inches long and 3½ inches at widest diameter)
A 2-quart glazed or stainless mixing bowl
1½ tsp salt
1 lb. fresh, firm, ripe, red tomatoes (3 medium), peeled, seeded, and juiced
2–3 Tb olive oil
The 8-inch frying pan again
4 large cloves garlic, minced or mashed
A cover for the frying pan
Peel the eggplant and cut into ½-inch dice. Toss in the bowl with the salt and let stand at least 20 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the tomatoes and cut pulp into ½-inch squares; strain and reserve juice. When eggplant has stood its 20 minutes, drain and dry on paper towels. Heat the oil in the pan and sauté the eggplant, tossing it, to brown very lightly. Then toss with the tomato pulp and garlic, add the juice from the tomatoes, and cover the pan. Simmer slowly for 10 to 15 minutes until eggplant is tender but still holds its shape. Set aside.
(*) May be prepared ahead; let cool uncovered.
4) Finishing the soup
2 to 3 cups chicken stock or canned broth
3 Tb minced fresh green herbs: basil, parsley, and chives (or parsley only and dried basil or oregano to taste)
About 15 minutes before serving, bring the soup base to the simmer and thin out to desired consistency with chicken stock or broth. Cut the pork or sausage into slices ⅜ inch thick and add to the soup along with the eggplant and tomato. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes to blend flavors. Carefully correct seasoning, stir in the herbs, and serve.
VARIATION
Fennel and Tomato Garnish
Sliced fresh fennel cooked until just tender and then simmered for a moment with diced tomatoes and herbs makes an attractive alternate to the eggplant. Soak the beans and simmer the soup base as described in the preceding recipe; prepare the garnish as follows.
2 cups thinly sliced fresh fennel bulbs
2 Tb olive oil or butter
¼ cup minced shallots or scallions
2 large cloves garlic, minced or mashed
1 lb. tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and diced
Salt and pepper
Cook the fennel slowly in the oil or butter in a covered skillet for 8 to 10 minutes, or until just tender but not browned. Add the shallots or scallions, garlic, and tomatoes; toss with fennel, cover skillet and cook for a few minutes until tomatoes have rendered the rest of their juice. Uncover, raise heat slightly and cook for a few minutes more to evaporate the juice. Season to taste. Set aside until you are ready to serve, then add to the soup as directed in the Master Recipe, Step 4.
LE POTIRON TOUT ROND
[Pumpkin Soup Baked in a Pumpkin]
This amusing presentation may be prepared either as a soup or a vegetable; the recipe is among the squashes in the Vegetables Chapter.
Bisques
A bisque is a rich, thick, highly seasoned soup of puréed shellfish. Undoubtedly the bisque came into being because it is an easy as well as elegant way to eat small crustaceans with complicated constructions like crayfish and crabs, and it is a wonderful solution for the chests and legs of lobsters.
This is the kind of recipe to pick for a group of friends who enjoy cooking together, since a bisque is not tricky to make—it just takes a long time. To get the true flavor, the raw shellfish are cut up and sautéed in their shells before being simmered with wine and aromatic ingredients. The meat is then removed from the shells; some of it is saved for a garnish while the rest is puréed. Finally, to extract every remaining bit of flavor and color from the shells, they are puréed with butter, and everything is combined into a splendid soup.
We shall begin with illustrated directions on how to cut up lobsters and crabs, and follow with lobster bisque and its other shellfish variations.
BUYING LOBSTERS
A live lobster should be lively: it spreads its claws, arches its back, and flaps its tail noisily against the underside of its chest when you pick it up. To do so you must grab it with your thumb and index finger at its shoulder just behind the claw joints. You can keep live lobsters in the refrigerator at around 37 degrees for a day or two in a heavy paper bag pierced with air holes, but you should cook them as soon as possible.
When you are picking store-bought boiled lobsters, look closely at their tails, which should curl up against the underside of the chests and spring back into place when straightened. A limp tail indicates that the lobster was moribund before cooking. Be sure also, in buying boiled lobster, that it smells absolutely sweet and fresh. Freshly boiled, cooled, and wrapped lobsters will keep for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator at around 37 degrees. You may even wrap airtight and freeze a boiled lobster in its shell for several weeks.
ON DEALING WITH LIVE LOBSTERS
A number of the best French lobster recipes, including homard à l’américaine and bisque de homard, call for the sautéing of cut-up raw lobster. This means you must buy live lobster and either have it cut up for you and cook it immediately, or do the cutting yourself. The serious cook really must face up to the task personally. While professionals simply cut up the lobsters with never a qualm nor a preliminary, you may find this difficult. If so, we suggest that you plunge them two at a time, head first and upside down, into boiling water; leave for about a minute, until lobsters are limp, and immediately remove them. Because the nervous and circulatory systems of the lobster center in the head area, a head-first plunge into boiling liquid not only kills the lobster almost instantly, but also eliminates muscle spasms. There is a misguided notion that lobsters suffer less if set to boil in cold water; far from being a humane procedure, this is slow death by drowning!
HOW TO CUT UP RAW LOBSTER
Furnish yourself with sharp-pointed lobster scissors or kitchen scissors, a large knife, a cutting board with groove to catch juices or a board set on a tray, a bowl to pour juices into, and another bowl for the lobster tomalley. You now want to split the lobster in two, lengthwise, as follows. Turn the lobster top side up. With scissors, cut through center of shell from end of tail up to but not through eyes in center of head. Turn lobster over and again with scissors cut through shell from end of tail to within ½ inch of tip of head. Then with your knife cut completely through the under side of the lobster lengthwise, following scissor cuts, from ½ inch below tip of head down through tail, thus splitting lobster neatly in two except at the head. Finally grasp lobster in both hands where claw joints meet chest, and break the shell apart at the head to open it up.
Nestled in the head on one side of the lobster or the other is a pouch an inch long and ¾ inch in diameter which is the stomach sack. Locate the sack with your fingers, twist it out, and discard it. (If you have cut sack in two while splitting the lobster, no harm is done; remove the 2 halves.) Pull out and discard the intestinal vein, a thin, flexible translucent or blackish tube that runs from the area of the stomach sack down through the tail meat. The greenish, and sometimes almost blackish, soft matter lying in the chest cavity is the tomalley; scoop it out into a small bowl. If your lobster is female, there will usually be some orange-red roe as well; add this to the tomalley. |
With a knife or scissors, separate the two tail sections from the chests. Cut the legs and the claw joints from the chests, and cut claws from end of joints. Crack claws in one or two places with a sharp whack of the knife. Drain juices into a bowl and reserve them, along with the tomalley. The lobster is now ready for sautéing.
HOW TO REMOVE THE MEAT FROM COOKED LOBSTERS
Split and open boiled lobster exactly as described in the preceding directions for raw lobster. Discard stomach sack and intestinal vein. Scoop tomalley from inside the chest sections into a bowl. After lifting meat out of tail sections, you want to remove meat from claws, claw joints, chest sections, and legs. With scissors, cut the claw joints from the chests, and separate each claw from its joint. Cut through shell on each side of joints, lift off shell, and remove meat.
The first step in removing the meat from the claws is to bend the small, hinged half rather slowly but firmly back on itself, toward the bottom of the claw; this will withdraw its cartilage from inside the meat of the main half of the claw. Dig the point of meat out of this small shell with a nut pick or the point of your scissors. |
Again with scissors, cut a window out of the main claw shell and remove the whole piece of claw meat with your fingers. |
Pull chest section from its outside shell. Note that there are spongy, hairy strips attached to outside side of chest at leg joints; these are gills. Pull off and discard them. Scrape out and add to the tomalley any coagulated white matter clinging to the inside of the shell. |
Cut or twist off legs where they join the chest. Dig out meat from inside side of chest, going in between cartilaginous interstices with the point of a knife. This is never a fast operation, but the small amount of meat you extract is the sweetest and tenderest of all.
To remove the meat from the legs, sever them at each of their joints. Place on a board and squeeze the meat out of each piece by rolling a pin (pestle or broom handle) over it. You will not get much, but again the meat is sweet, tender, and worth the time spent on extraction. |
CRABS
HOW TO CLEAN AND CUT UP RAW CRABS FOR CRAB BISQUE
Stone crabs, rock crabs, sand crabs, blue crabs, and their ilk and size are especially good for bisques because they are otherwise somewhat complicated to eat. If you are at the seashore you can gather them yourself, or ask lobstermen please not to throw them out, as they often do, but to save all crabs for you. However you obtain them, they must be alive. Just before you are ready to clean and cut them, place them upside down in a large bowl or stoppered sink and cover with very hot water. As soon as air bubbles cease to rise, in a minute or two, the crabs will be limp and ready to work on. Your object in cleaning and cutting is to remove the main body, or chest-leg-claw portions of each crab, from the hard shell, called the carapace, and to collect the tomalley, which is the creamy substance in the chest cavity and carapace.
Turn crabs upside down. Note that female crabs have a wider tail flap than male crabs and the female’s is usually edged with hair.
Lift point of flap away from chest, then grasp flap close to the body of the crab and with a rather slow twisting movement, pull it horizontally free from the end of the crab. The intestinal vein should draw out of the body at the same time. |
Break off claw-joint sections where they join the body. To remove the leg-chest section, hold carapace firmly in your left hand and grasp all the legs close to the body in your right hand. Rock leg-chest portion back and forth and it will come loose from the carapace; pull it free. Both chest and interior of carapace should smell fresh and appetizing; your nose is the best judge. |
With a vegetable brush, scrub shell on underside of chest and around the legs under a stream of cold water; scrub the claw-joint pieces also. Finally cut the chest in half lengthwise as shown. (Trim off any mossy bits of shell with a knife or scissors.)
Crab tomalley
The greenish, brownish, and sometimes orange creamy matter left in the carapace is also called tomalley. It, along with the juices in the shell, constitutes some of the best parts of the crab.* Pour the juices through the sieve containing the chest tomalley; scoop soft matter out of the shell with your fingers, and into the sieve. When all the crabs are done, pour accumulated liquid into a separate container and reserve. Rub the tomalley through the sieve with a wooden spoon, scrape it off bottom of sieve into a bowl; reserve for Step 7, where it will simmer with the crab-meat garnish. (After puréeing, the raw tomalley will become a rather dark green, which then becomes dark red when cooked.)
* When a whole crab is boiled, the tomalley turns greenish and orange while the liquid usually becomes white.
HOW TO REMOVE THE MEAT FROM COOKED CRABS
Provide yourself with a board and wooden mallet or wooden object of some sort for cracking the shells, and a grapefruit knife for extracting the meat. For a bisque made from small crabs, do not bother to delve too thoroughly because it will take all day; remove only what meat you easily can, and the shell debris will be simmered again anyway to extract all remaining flavor. Begin by twisting the legs from the chest sections, then break each leg off at the knee by bending it back upon itself at the joint, thus drawing the cartilage out of the upper leg meat. For a bisque, chop lower legs into quarter-inch pieces, and reserve for shellfish butter; otherwise discard them. To remove meat from upper legs, as well as from claws and joints, crack shell sharply but lightly with mallet, being careful not to shatter the shell into the meat. Then dig out what meat you easily can with the point of your grapefruit knife. To remove meat from chests, dig out what you can from the holes left by the legs, then from the other side, being careful not to include bits of shell or cartilage. You will get about 1 solid cup of meat from 6 to 8 crabs measuring 3 to 4 inches across the back of the shell.
BISQUE DE HOMARD À L’AMÉRICAINE
[Lobster Bisque]
Considering the price of lobsters and the puréed nature of a bisque, we think it is a waste to use whole lobster here. We therefore suggest only the chests and the legs for the bisque, and the tails, claws, and tomalley for a splendid main dish, such as the homard à l’Américaine described in Volume I on page 223. In fact, you could well combine the two, starting them out together, since both follow much the same pattern. Serve the main dish one night, and the bisque a day or two later. That is up to you, however, and we shall content ourselves with the chests and legs from 3 or 4 lobsters for the following recipe. As in most dishes of this type, you can expand or contract the ingredients to a certain extent without upsetting the balance of tastes, and you need not be disturbed if you have a little more or a little less of anything that is called for.
A NOTE ON TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT
In the old days you would have needed an 8-quart marble mortar, a large wooden pestle, a 12-inch tamis sieve, a tortoise-shell scraper, and either a flock of kitchen minions or the strength of a Japanese wrestler to produce a proper bisque. Today’s electric blender eliminates these colorful requirements, but there are still multiple simmerings, strainings, and puréeings, as well as numerous bowls, sieves, and spoons that you will need. Do not wash anything off until the soup is done because you will be using the same utensils repeatedly and you don’t want any marvelous tidbits of flavor losing themselves down the drain.
For about 2 quarts, serving 6 to 8
1) Preliminaries
1 cup mirepoix (equal parts finely diced onions, carrots, and celery)
1½ Tb butter
A heavy, 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
1½ cups chopped, fresh tomato pulp (3 to 4 medium tomatoes peeled, seeded, and juiced)
The chest parts with the shells and the legs from 3 or 4 fresh, raw, 1¼- to 1½-lb. lobsters
Cook the mirepoix slowly in the butter, in the saucepan, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until vegetables are tender but not browned. Meanwhile, prepare the tomatoes. Cut lobster chests in half lengthwise. (See illustrated directions for cutting lobster.)
2) Sautéing the lobster
2 or more Tb olive oil or cooking oil
A heavy, 10- to 12-inch no-stick or enameled casserole (or chicken fryer or deep frying pan)
Cooking tongs
Film the bottom of the casserole with 1⁄16 inch of oil; set over moderately high heat until oil is very hot but not smoking. Add the lobster chests cut side down and the legs. Do not crowd pan: sauté in 2 batches if all will not fit easily in one layer. Toss and turn frequently until shells are a deep red (4 to 5 minutes in all). Color is important here, as it is the shells that tint the soup.
3) Simmering the lobster and removing the meat
Salt and pepper
⅓ cup Cognac
Either 1½ cups dry white wine;
Or 1 cup dry white vermouth
2 Tb fresh tarragon or 1 Tb dried tarragon
1 bay leaf
The mirepoix and tomatoes from Step 1
1 clove mashed garlic
Large pinch of cayenne pepper
A cover for the casserole
When the lobster is sautéed, lower heat slightly, salt and pepper the lobster, and pour on the Cognac. Ignite by shaking pan vigorously or tilting it into heat source, or use a lighted match. When flames have died down, pour on the wine, mix in the tarragon, and add the bay leaf and other ingredients. Cover casserole, and simmer slowly for 20 minutes.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be simmered a day in advance; let cool uncovered, then cover and refrigerate (or freeze).
2 medium-sized bowls
A food mill with medium disk, or a sieve and a wooden spoon
An electric blender
(Before proceeding, you may wish to start the rice in the next step, so that it will be done by the time you are through here.) Remove the pieces of lobster from their cooking sauce and extract the meat from the shells following illustrated directions. You will have about 1 cup; place in one of the bowls. Purée the cooking sauce through food mill or sieve into the other bowl, and scrape into jar of blender; reserve for Step 5. Chop shells into ½-inch pieces and reserve in a bowl for Step 6.
4) Simmering the rice
3 cups fish stock or canned clam juice
2 cups beef stock or canned beef bouillon
The saucepan from Step 1, in which the mirepoix cooked
¼ cup plain, raw, white rice
Bring the fish stock or clam juice and the beef stock or bouillon to a boil in the saucepan; sprinkle in the rice. Stir up once, and simmer for 20 minutes. Set aside for Step 5.
5) Puréeing rice and lobster meat
The saucepan of boiled rice
A large, fine-meshed sieve set over a 2½- to 3-quart bowl
A rubber spatula
The blender jar containing the puréed lobster-cooking sauce
Half the lobster meat
Drain rice through sieve, reserving its cooking liquid in the bowl. Scrape rice and the half portion of lobster meat into the blender. Purée, adding a little of the rice-cooking liquid if mixture is too thick for easy blending in the machine. Scrape the purée out of the blender and into the rice-cooking saucepan.
6) Shellfish butter for final enrichment—lobster butter
6 Tb butter
The casserole in which the lobster cooked
The bowl of chopped lobster shells
The electric blender
The sieve from Step 5
A wooden spoon
A rubber spatula
A small bowl to hold the butter
Heat butter to bubbling in casserole, stir in the chest and leg shells, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, tossing and turning, to heat thoroughly. Immediately scrape into blender and purée, flicking switch on and off and scraping shells down into blades as necessary. Scrape purée into sieve, and mash vigorously with spoon to extract as much butter as possible. Scrape all butter off bottom of sieve with rubber spatula and pack into bowl. Set aside for Steps 7 and 8.
The bowl of rice-cooking liquid from Step 5
The saucepan containing the puréed rice and lobster from Step 5
To extract all remaining flavor from blender jar, shells, and sieve, pour rice-cooking liquid into the casserole in which you just sautéed the shells. Heat to the simmer and pour liquid into blender to rinse it, then pour liquid back into casserole. Scrape shell debris from sieve into casserole, and swish sieve about in the hot rice-cooking liquid to dislodge all debris. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes; strain liquid through the sieve and into the saucepan of puréed rice and lobster.
7) The lobster garnish
2 Tb of the lobster butter from Step 6
A small frying pan
The remaining lobster meat from Step 3
Salt and pepper
2 Tb Cognac or dry white vermouth
Heat the butter to bubbling in the frying pan; stir in the lobster meat, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté over moderate heat for 2 minutes, tossing and turning. Pour on the Cognac or vermouth, and cook for a moment until liquid has evaporated. Scrape the lobster into the saucepan containing the rest of the soup mixture from Step 6, and you are finally almost ready to serve.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Recipe may be completed to this point; let cool uncovered, then cover and refrigerate or freeze.
8) Final flavoring and serving
If needed: more fish stock, clam juice, or bouillon
Salt, pepper, cayenne, and tarragon
½ to 1 cup heavy cream
The lobster butter from Step 6
2 to 3 Tb minced fresh chervil, tarragon, or parsley
Croûtons (diced bread sautéed in butter); or Melba toast; or your own French bread
Shortly before serving, bring the bisque to the simmer. It should be quite thick, but if it needs thinning, stir in a little stock or bouillon. Carefully correct seasoning. Just before serving, stir in the cream, then remove from heat and stir in the lobster butter by tablespoonsful. Pour the bisque into a hot tureen or soup cups, and decorate with the fresh herbs. Pass the croûtons, Melba toast, or bread separately.
Because all of the other shellfish bisques follow almost the same pattern as lobster bisque, you can really substitute shrimp, crab, or crayfish for lobster in the Master Recipe every time you see the word “lobster.” To account for the very slight differences in method, here is a paragraph of special instructions for each.
Bisque de Crevettes
[Shrimp Bisque]
You must have shrimp in the shell for this recipe because the shells give the bisque its characteristic color and flavor. It is of prime importance, therefore, that you use only the freshest smelling and finest quality of shrimp, whether they are live and whole or frozen, raw, and headless. If the shrimp are whole, meaning with head and shell, simply wash and drain before sautéing them; if frozen, thaw in cold water until you can separate them, then sauté. Since they need only 5 minutes of simmering, cook the tomatoes and other ingredients called for in Step 3 for 10 minutes before adding the shrimp; after their simmer, let them cool 10 minutes in the cooking sauce before draining and peeling them. Use the shells and several whole, cooked shrimp for the shellfish butter in Step 6, and if the shrimp are very large, slice in half lengthwise those you are reserving for the garnish in Step 7. You will need 1¼ to 1½ pounds of raw shrimp for 2 quarts of bisque.
Bisque de Crabes
[Crab Bisque]
Crab bisque is even more one of love’s labors than lobster bisque, but it is so marvelously rich and deeply flavored that if you pick the right guests your reward will be in watching their pleasure, as well as relishing your own. Clean and cut the crabs as illustrated, then substitute crab for lobster in the Master Recipe, with the following slight modifications. Because crab pieces will bulk larger than lobster chests, you will need 2 big casseroles for the sautéing in Step 2, but may combine all together for the simmering in Step 3. You will not have enough liquid to cover all of the crab pieces in this step, and should toss the pieces several times during the 20 minutes of cooking; do not forget to add the liquid from the carapaces and the tomalley to simmer here, along with everything else. Note that it is only the chopped-up lower legs that go into the shellfish butter in Step 6, but add as well all the debris from the chests, claws, and upper legs to simmer at the end of the step, allowing a good 10 minutes of cooking to extract every bit of flavor. For 2 quarts of wonderful soup, you will need 6 to 8 live crabs measuring 3 to 4 inches across the top of the shell.
Bisque d’Écrevisses
[Crayfish Bisque]
Fresh-water crayfish, crawfish, or écrevisses, as they are variously called, are miniature lobsterlike crustaceans 4 to 5 inches long. They are considered a supreme delicacy in Europe as well as in the southern Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Midwestern states where they are gathered. With the few minor differences noted here, substitute the word “crayfish” for the word “lobster” in the Master Recipe. To clean live crayfish, drop them headfirst in a basin of very hot water and leave for 2 to 3 minutes or until bubbles cease to rise. After draining them, pull out the central flap at the base of the tail to draw out along with it the intestinal tube. (This action of removing the intestine is called châtter in French recipes.) Sauté and simmer the crayfish whole, as directed in the Master Recipe, but they need only 10 minutes of cooking in Step 3. To shell them, remove the tail meat only, and use all of it for the garnish in Step 7; the chests and shell debris go into the butter, Step 6. If you wish to be very haute cuisine, have a dozen extra crayfish and make a small amount of a simple fish mousse, using the raw tail meat. Then remove chest-leg sections (but not claws and feelers) from covering shell, and fill the shells with the mousse. Poach 5 minutes in stock or bouillon before floating them in the bisque at serving time. You should have 24 to 30 live crayfish for 2 quarts of soup, plus 12 or so extra if you are doing the mousse.
TWO SCALLOP SOUPS WITH A CRAB OR LOBSTER VARIATION
Scallops are so easy to come by, fresh or frozen, that we feel they should have their place in the soup repertoire. Although scallops are rarely so used in France, they are delicious as the unique fish in a bouillabaisse or bourride, and they make a marvelous velouté or cream soup.
LES SAINT-JACQUES EN BOUILLABAISSE
This heady Mediterranean brew of leeks, onions, garlic, tomatoes, and herbs plus scallops can be a complete meal when served with plenty of fresh French bread and followed by fruit and cheese.
Serving 4 as a main course, 6 as a soup course
1) The soup base
1½ cups combination finely sliced leeks and onions, or onions only
¼ cup olive oil
A heavy-bottomed stainless or enameled 3-quart saucepan with cover
2 large cloves minced or mashed garlic
1¼ to 1½ cups chopped fresh tomato pulp (4 medium tomatoes peeled, seeded, and juiced)
4 cups liquid: white-wine fish stock, or equal parts clam juice, water, and white wine or vermouth
The juice from the tomatoes
2 large pinches saffron threads
The following tied in washed cheesecloth: 6 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, ¼ tsp thyme, ½ tsp basil, 4 fennel seeds, and a 2-inch piece of dried orange peel or ¼ tsp bottled dried peel Salt and pepper
Cook the leeks and onions slowly with the oil in the covered saucepan for 5 to 6 minutes until tender but not browned. Add garlic and tomatoes, raise heat slightly, and cook 3 to 4 minutes more. Add the rest of the ingredients, bring to the boil, and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes. Carefully taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed.
2) Preparing the scallops
1 lb. (2 cups) bay or sea scallops, fresh or frozen
A large bowl and sieve
Soak the scallops in cold water for 2 or 3 minutes if fresh, until completely defrosted if frozen. Lift out and drain, looking over each for sand; wash again if necessary. Leave bay scallops whole. Cut sea scallops into ⅜-inch chunks.
3) Finishing the soup
The soup base
The scallops
2 to 3 Tb coarsely chopped fresh parsley
French bread
Optional: a bowl of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the soup base to a rapid boil, add the scallops, bring to the boil again and boil slowly uncovered for 3 minutes. Check seasoning again. Serve either from a warm tureen or in soup cups or plates, and decorate with parsley. Pass the bread and optional cheese separately.
(*) Soup may be cooked several hours before serving. Let cool uncovered, then cover and refrigerate. Bring to a full boil for 2 or 3 seconds before serving. Note that a full boil is necessary to redistribute the olive oil into the liquid.
Other ideas
For a more nourishing soup, you can add 2 cups of diced “boiling” potatoes or a handful of pasta to the soup base 10 minutes before the end of its simmering. You could enrich the soup with an egg yolk and oil liaison, as for the soupe aux poivrons, or with a rouille, as for the bouillabaisse in Volume I, page 52. See also the recipe for bourride with its aïoli enrichment.
VELOUTÉ DE SAINT-JACQUES
[Cream of Scallop Soup—hot or cold]
This deliciously creamy soup is a cousin of the Breton mouclades, mussel soup, and you may serve it either hot or cold.
For 6 to 7 cups, serving 4 to 6
1) The court bouillon
4 cups liquid: 2 cups dry white wine or 1½ cups dry white vermouth plus water
1 cup thinly sliced onions
¼ cup thinly sliced carrots
¼ tsp each: fennel seeds, thyme, and curry powder
4 peppercorns
1 clove mashed garlic
1½ bay leaf
6 parsley sprigs
½ tsp salt
A heavy-bottomed stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
A sieve set over a bowl
Simmer the ingredients for the court bouillon in the partially covered saucepan for 20 minutes. Strain, pressing liquid out of ingredients, and return the court bouillon liquid to the pan.
2) Cooking the scallops
1 lb. (2 cups) scallops, fresh or frozen
Soak the scallops in cold water for 2 or 3 minutes if fresh, until completely defrosted if frozen. Lift out and drain, looking over each for sand; wash again if necessary. Cut into ¼-inch dice. Bring the court bouillon to a boil, add scallops, bring again to just under the boiling point, and simmer uncovered for 3 minutes. Drain the liquid into the bowl, leaving scallops in sieve. Rinse and dry the saucepan.
3) The velouté soup base
3 Tb butter
4 Tb flour
A wooden spatula or spoon
The court bouillon
A wire whip
1½ to 2 cups milk
½ to ¾ cup heavy cream
2 egg yolks
The scallops
Salt and white pepper
Melt the butter in the saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook slowly for 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat and let cool a moment, then pour in all the warm court bouillon at once, beating vigorously with a wire whip to blend thoroughly. Bring to the boil for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring to reach all over bottom of pan. Thin with milk as necessary; soup should not be too thick, since the egg yolks to come will also thicken it. Remove from heat. Pour ½ cup of the cream into the bowl, blend in the egg yolks with a wire whip, and gradually dribble in about 2 cups of the hot soup, beating. Return mixture to the pan and stir in the scallops. Carefully correct seasoning.
(*) Soup may be prepared to this point several hours in advance. Clean off sides of pan with a rubber spatula and float a spoonful of cream on the surface to prevent a skin from forming. When cool, cover and refrigerate.
4) Finishing the soup, and serving
3 to 4 Tb soft butter
2 to 3 Tb minced fresh parsley, chervil, or chives
Shortly before serving, set soup over moderate heat and stir continually with a wooden spoon until soup comes to just below the simmer. Remove from heat and stir in the butter, a tablespoon at a time. Serve in a warm tureen or soup cups, and decorate with the minced herbs.
To serve cold
Omit the final butter enrichment, and oversalt slightly. Clean off sides of pan with a rubber spatula and float a spoonful of cream on the surface. When cool, cover and refrigerate. Blend in more cream, if you wish, just before serving.
VARIATION
Velouté de Crustacés
[Cream of Shellfish Soup—for canned crab, and cooked or frozen crab or lobster meat]
Although the best shellfish soups are made, like the bisques, from fresh, raw shellfish in the shell, because every bit of the flavor goes into the soup, you can produce an excellent result with the cooked meat alone, plus either a fish stock or clam juice. This is a useful type of recipe for those times when you want something special on the spur of the moment. The technique here is almost the same as for the preceding scallop soup, but there is no court bouillon. (NOTE: this recipe works especially well with freshly cooked crab or lobster meat, as well as with the frozen meat or with canned crab. We have not found canned lobster to be at all successful.)
For about 6 cups, serving 4 people
1) Preparing and flavoring the shellfish meat
7 to 8 ounces (1 packed cup) canned crab meat, or cooked or frozen crab or lobster meat
A large sieve and bowl
2 Tb butter
An 8-inch enameled or stainless frying pan
1 Tb minced shallots or scallions
⅛ tsp tarragon
Salt and pepper
Either ¾ cup dry white wine;
Or ½ cup dry white French vermouth
Commercially canned or frozen shellfish meat is usually packed with a preservative, which should be washed off. Therefore soak the meat in cold water for several minutes (or until completely thawed). Pick it over carefully to remove all bits of tendon, particularly if you are using crab meat. Drain thoroughly. Melt butter in pan, stir in shallots or scallions, then the shellfish meat. Season with the tarragon, salt, and pepper and sauté over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes so that butter and flavorings will penetrate meat. Add wine or vermouth, boil rapidly to reduce liquid by half, and set aside.
2) The velouté soup base
½ cup very finely minced onion
4 Tb butter
A 2½- to 3-quart heavy bottomed stainless or enameled saucepan with cover
3 Tb flour
3 cups fish stock or clam juice brought to the simmer in a small saucepan
2 to 3 cups milk
Salt and pepper to taste
The shellfish meat
½ to ¾ cup heavy cream
2 egg yolks
Cook the onions slowly in the butter until tender but not browned. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and beat in the hot liquid. Simmer partially covered for 20 minutes, thinning out as necessary with milk. Add the shellfish meat, simmer 2 to 3 minutes to blend flavors, thinning out again with milk if necessary. Correct seasoning. Pour ½ cup cream into shellfish pan, blend in the egg yolks, then about 2 cups of hot soup added by driblets. Pour back into the soup.
(*) May be prepared ahead to this point, as directed in preceding recipe.
3) Finishing the soup and serving
Follow directions in preceding recipe.
FRENCH FISH STEWS AND CHOWDERS
Bouillabaisse is not the only French fish chowder. From that same Mediterranean coast comes the bourride—thick, rich, and reeking of garlic, while from the opposite corner of France comes the marmite dieppoise, with its mussels, sole, cream, and eggs. Inland France has its own special chowders too, called matelotes, meurettes, and pauchouses, made from fresh-water fish. These are all hearty dishes with big chunks of fish, and easily suffice as the main course of an informal lunch or supper.
FISH TO USE
For this type of recipe the fish should be fairly firm-fleshed so that it will keep its shape while it cooks. Whether fresh or frozen, it must smell as fresh as a breeze from the open sea or the primeval forest. You cannot, of course, duplicate a fresh-water chowder from Burgundy with ocean fish from the New Jersey or Oregon coast, but we do not think the fish itself is all that important: it is the rest of the ingredients and the general method that give each dish its special character. Here are some suggestions for both ocean fish and fresh-water fish with their French translations or equivalents.
Ocean fish
Cod (cabillaud, morue fraîche)
Conger eel (congre, fiélas)
Cusk (brosme, rare in France)
Goosefish, monkfish (lotte de mer, baudroie)
Haddock (églefin)
Halibut (flétan, rare in France)
Ocean whitefish, wolf fish, catfish (loup anarrhique, rare in France)
Pollack, green cod, coalfish (lieu jaune is a near equivalent)
Sea bass (bar, loup)
Whiting, silver hake (merlu or colin is the European cousin; merlan is no relation but a good choice)
Various rockfish, if you are a fisherman (the American sculpin is a cousin of the Mediterranean rascasse)
Fresh-water fish
Bass and perch (perche)
Carp (carpe)
Catfish (lotte de rivière)
Eel (anguille)
Pike (brochet)
Trout (truite)
Small carplike fishes (tanche, barbeau, barbillon are typical, and frequently mentioned in French recipes)
Scallops
Though rarely used for soups and chowders in France, scallops are delicious used in any of the following recipes, alone or in combination with other fish.
PREPARING FISH FOR COOKING
Small fish (6 to 8 inches) for stews and chowders are cleaned and scaled, and left whole. Larger fish, after cleaning and scaling, are cut into slices ¾ to 1 inch thick. Very large fish are cut into thick fillets or steaks, and then into serving pieces about 3 by 4 inches in diameter. Bones and skin are usually not removed, but you may do so if you wish. As soon as you have prepared the fish, wrap and refrigerate it until you are ready to cook. Make fish stock out of scraps, heads, skin, and so forth (Volume I, page 114).
MATELOTES, MEURETTES, PAUCHOUSES
[Burgundy Fish Stew with Wine, Onions, Lardons, and Mushrooms]
You might call this dish the fisherman’s coq au vin, fish simmered in wine with onions, pork bits, and mushrooms, and the wine becomes the sauce. Even those who are not enthusiastic fish eaters usually love this recipe, and although it is supposed to be made with fresh-water fish or eels alone, we have used ocean fish like halibut, haddock, or scallops with complete success. As usual with French regional recipes, you can have endless arguments as to whether a matelote is cooked with red wine or white, or if it is only the pauchouse (spelled pôchouse by some) that simmers in white wine, and only the meurette that has lardons of pork, or vice versa, including a garnish of poached eggs and truffles for some versions. We shall not enter into the argument at all except to say that either a fish-stock or clam-juice base to the sauce is essential, or your matelote/meurette/pauchouse will lack the savor and character it must have.
If this is a main course, you may wish to add a side dish of boiled potatoes to eat with the stew, as well as plenty of French bread. Serve either a strong dry white wine or a red, preferably Burgundy, to match whichever wine cooked with the fish. A green salad or cold vegetables vinaigrette could follow the stew, and then cheese and fruit or a dessert.
For 4 to 6 people
1) The sauce base
¼ lb. (½ cup) fresh fat-and-lean pork belly or butt, or a chunk of salt pork, or bacon
A 4- to 5-quart flameproof casserole or saucepan
1 Tb pork fat or cooking oil
Either 2 cups sliced onions;
Or ½ cup sliced onions and 24 to 30 braised onions to be added at end of cooking
2 Tb flour
Cut pork into lardons 1 inch long and ¼ inch thick. If you are using salt pork or bacon, drop into 2 quarts of water, simmer 10 minutes, drain, rinse, and dry in paper towels. Cook with the pork fat or oil over moderately low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until pork is very lightly browned. Then stir in the sliced onions, cover pan, and cook slowly for about 5 minutes until onions are tender. Raise heat and brown very lightly. Sprinkle on the flour and stir over moderately high heat to cook and brown the flour for 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
2 cups either red wine such as Côtes-du-Rhône or Mountain Red; or dry white wine such as Côtes-du-Rhöne or Pinot Blanc; or 1½ cups dry white French vermouth
2 cups fish stock or clam juice
Big pinch pepper
1 imported bay leaf
2 allspice berries
½ tsp thyme
1 clove garlic, mashed
Salt (none if using clam juice)
Gradually stir in the liquids to blend smoothly with the flour. Add the herbs and garlic and bring to the simmer. Salt lightly to taste. Simmer half an hour. Liquid should be lightly thickened; thin out with a little more wine or stock if necessary. Carefully correct seasoning.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be cooked in advance; when cool, cover and refrigerate.
2) Optional additions—to be prepared in advance of final cooking
1 lb. fresh mushrooms, quartered and sautéed in butter
8 to 12 canapés (triangles of crustless homemade-type white bread sautéed in clarified butter)
The mushrooms may be sautéed and set aside in a covered dish; they will simmer in the sauce just before serving. Reheat the canapés in the oven for several minutes before serving.
3) Finishing the stew and serving
Either 2 to 2½ lbs. fish from the list, one or several varieties prepared as described;
Or scallops only
More stock or clam juice if needed
Twenty minutes before you wish to serve, bring the sauce base to the boil and add the fish. Pour on more liquid if necessary, so fish is just covered. Rapidly bring back to the boil and boil slowly 8 to 10 minutes (3 to 4 minutes only for scallops) until fish is done; flesh comes easily from bone, or will just flake—do not overcook.
A hot serving dish
The optional braised onions and sautéed mushrooms
Parsley sprigs or minced fresh parsley
The optional canapés
Arrange fish on hot dish, cover, and keep warm. Skim off any surface fat and rapidly boil down sauce, if necessary, to concentrate its flavor or to thicken it. Add optional braised onions and/or mushrooms and simmer for a moment to blend flavors. Carefully correct seasoning. Spoon sauce and vegetables over fish, decorate with parsley and optional canapés, and serve immediately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you find you cannot serve immediately, return fish to pan after sauce has been finished and optional vegetables added. Remove from heat, and just before serving reheat to the simmer, basting fish with sauce until hot through.
MARMITE AUX FRUITS DE MER—MARMITE DIEPPOISE—CHAUDRÉE NORMANDE
[Normandy-style Fish Stew with Sole, Shellfish, and White-wine Sauce]
When you order marmite dieppoise in Dieppe on the Normandy coast or at Prunier’s in Paris, you are served an elegant combination of channel sole, turbot, red mullet, mussels, shrimps, scallops, and langoustines, those small, European, lobsterlike prawns, all steaming together in an abundant, deliciously winey-smelling, ivory-colored sauce. It will cost you quite a number of francs, since marmite dieppoise is definitely in the luxury category. This is another dish we cannot fully duplicate in America because channel soles, turbots, mullets, and langoustines do not live here, but other soles, halibuts, and lobsters do, as do shrimp, scallops, and mussels. The following recipe, therefore, is an overseas version of the original. You may serve the marmite as a first course, although we suggest it as the main attraction of the meal. You could start with a pâté or a saucisson en brioche, follow with asparagus or artichokes vinaigrette, and it would be fully in the Normandy tradition to end with an apple dessert such as the individual soufflés, or the tarte aux pommes. With the marmite itself, serve a fine white Burgundy, Graves, or Gewürtztraminer.
FISH TALK
Although you may use any of the fish listed, you will have a combination more like the original with the equivalent of a fillet of sole, two 2-inch pieces of halibut, 4 to 6 shrimp, scallops, and/or mussels, and ⅓ of a lobster per person, for the first serving, and half the amount for seconds. Whatever you have chosen, be sure each piece of fish smells absolutely fresh; pay particular attention to the shrimp if frozen, because they can overpower everything else unless of unquestionable quality. A well-flavored fish stock is essential here; if you cannot get bones and trimmings from fresh sole, buy an extra pound or so of fish.
For 6 people as a main course, 10 to 12 as a soup course
1) Preliminaries—may be done several hours in advance preparing the fish—see also preceding paragraph:
1½ lbs. skinless and boneless sole or flounder fillets
1 to 1½ lbs. scallops
1 to 1½ lbs. raw shrimp, medium size, and in the shell if possible
1 to 1½ lbs. halibut steaks 1 inch thick
Waxed paper
A bowl large enough to hold all the fish
Wash and drain all the fish. Trim sole or flounder fillets if necessary; cut in half crosswise. If scallops are large, cut into ½-inch pieces. Peel and de-vein the shrimp, reserving peel and also heads if you have whole fresh shrimp. Remove skin and bones from halibut, cut meat into pieces roughly 2 inches in diameter, and reserve bones and trimmings. Place each type of fish on waxed paper and pack into bowl in the order listed; cover and refrigerate. Refrigerate trimmings and reserve for the fish stock.
DECORATION NOTE: You may wish to save out some whole cooked shrimp, lobster claws, or mussels to decorate each serving; we leave this up to you.
optional fresh mussels:
2 quarts fresh mussels
½ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
Scrub and soak the mussels, and steam them open in the wine as described in Volume I, pages 226–7. Reserve 12 pairs of shells for garnish. Place meat in a small bowl and moisten with a little of the cooking liquid; decant rest of liquid into another bowl, being sure to include no sand.
the lobsters:
You may use 8 to 12 ounces of cooked lobster meat rather than fresh lobsters; thaw if frozen, then warm in butter, wine, and seasonings, here, before adding to the marmite in the next step.
2 live lobsters, 1¼ to 1½ lbs. each
A sieve set over a 1-quart bowl or small saucepan
2 to 3 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
The marmite (a heavy-bottomed, 6- to 8-quart enameled or stainless casserole or kettle, with cover)
2 cups combined sliced white of leek and onions; or onions only
½ cup each of sliced carrots and celery
2 imported bay leaves
½ tsp thyme
8 to 10 parsley stems and/or roots (not the leaves)
Salt (none if using mussel or clam juice)
2 cups dry white wine or 1½ cups dry white French vermouth
4 Tb soft butter
3 egg yolks
⅔ cup heavy cream
Split the lobsters in half lengthwise, discard stomach sacks in head and intestinal veins, scoop green matter and roe into sieve, and chop lobster into pieces (see illustration). Film marmite with ⅛ inch of oil, heat to very hot but not smoking, and sauté lobster for 3 to 4 minutes, turning frequently until lobster shells are bright red. Remove to a side dish. Lower heat, stir vegetables and herbs into pan, and sauté 8 to 10 minutes until tender but not browned. Season lobster lightly with salt, return to marmite, add wine, cover, and simmer slowly for 20 minutes. Then lift out lobster pieces, remove the meat and reserve it in a bowl; chop shells and return to marmite. At some convenient time, add soft butter to lobster green matter and rub butter with green matter through sieve into bowl; beat in the egg yolks and cream, and set aside or refrigerate. (Rinse sieve in lobster-cooking liquid to get all the flavor possible.)
the fish stock—for 6 to 8 cups:
Either 2 to 3 lbs. (2 or more quarts) bones, heads, trimmings, and shells from the fresh fish you are using;
Or an extra pound of fish;
Or 3 cups clam juice
Either 2 more cups dry white wine;
Or 1½ cups dry white French vermouth (half the amount of either if you are using mussel-cooking liquid)
The optional mussel-cooking liquid and/or necessary cold water
2 tsp salt (none if using mussel liquid or clam juice)
Add all ingredients to the lobster-cooking marmite, bring to simmer, skim, and simmer partially covered for 40 minutes. Strain liquid into a bowl and discard residue. Wash out marmite and return liquid to it; you should have 6 to 8 cups of deliciously flavored brew. Boil down to concentrate flavor and volume if necessary; carefully correct seasoning.
2) Final cooking and serving—about 30 minutes cooking the fish:
The fish stock in its marmite
4 Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed 3-quart enameled or stainless saucepan
⅓ cup flour (scoop cup into flour and level off with a knife)
A wooden spoon, a wire whip, a perforated skimmer, and a ladle
The bowl of prepared and refrigerated fish
The cooked lobster meat and optional mussels
More fish stock, white wine, or boiling water if needed
A large soup tureen or bowl-shaped platter set over a pan of almost simmering water
Bring the fish stock to the boil. During this time melt the butter in the saucepan, blend in the flour, and cook slowly, stirring, until butter and flour foam together for 2 minutes without browning at all. Set this roux aside: it is for the sauce, next step. When stock is boiling, add the halibut (or other firm-fleshed fish); bring liquid rapidly to the simmer and simmer 5 minutes. Then add the sole, scallops, and shrimp, pressing them down into the liquid. If really necessary, add a little more liquid: ingredients should be almost covered. Bring again rapidly to the simmer for 2 minutes, then add the cooked lobster meat and optional cooked mussels. Bring again to simmer for 1 minute and remove from heat. Lift fish out and arrange in tureen; cover loosely. (Some of the fish, like sole, may have flaked apart; lift only what you easily can into the tureen.)
the sauce:
The flour-and-butter roux and cooking liquid from preceding step
More stock or cream if needed
The lobster green-matter, cream, and yolk mixture
Salt, white pepper, Cayenne pepper, and lemon juice
Reheat roux if necessary, remove from heat, and whisking it with a wire whip, gradually ladle into it by driblets 2 cups of hot cooking stock. When perfectly smooth, set over moderately high heat and rapidly beat in 4 to 5 more cups of stock. Simmer, stirring, for 2 minutes: sauce should be a little thicker than a fairly heavy cream soup. Boil down rapidly, stirring, if too thin; beat in a little more stock if too thick. Then, and again by driblets, beat 2 cups of hot sauce into the lobster green-matter mixture, heating it gradually to prevent it from curdling. Gradually beat it back into the hot sauce, and set sauce over moderate heat. Stir slowly with a wooden spoon, reaching all over bottom of pan until sauce thickens and comes almost to the simmer. If sauce seems too thick, stir in a little more cream or stock. Taste very carefully for seasoning, adding salt, pepper, drops of lemon juice, and so forth if you feel them necessary. Proceed immediately to the next step.
serving:
The optional fish decorations, such as whole shrimp, lobster shells, mussels, etc.
2 to 3 Tb minced fresh parsley and or chervil
12 to 18 canapés (triangles of crustless homemade-type white bread sautéed in clarified butter)
Warm soup plates
Gently fold the hot sauce into the warm fish in the tureen. Float optional fish decorations on top and sprinkle the herbs over all. Serve as soon as possible, ladling the stew into hot plates and adding a canapé or two to each portion. This is eaten with large soup spoon, knife, and fork.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be completed a day before, serving in the marmite instead of a tureen. When cold, cover and refrigerate; heat slowly to below the simmer before serving. Like a good New England chowder or lobster stew, it gains in flavor when made in advance.
BOURRIDE
[Provençal Fish Stew with Aïoli—Garlic Mayonnaise]
This marvelous fish dinner from Provence is for garlic lovers only, as the big chunks of fish are cooked in a broth that is then enriched with egg yolks and a mayonnaise into which at least 1 large clove of garlic per person has been puréed. Like bouillabaisse, the fish is served on a platter and the enriched broth in a tureen, but both are eaten together in soup plates. This is such a rich dish we suggest you serve it for lunch, and you will want nothing else but perhaps a bit of green salad and fresh fruit. You will need a strong, dry white wine, such as a Côtes-du-Rhône or Pinot Blanc.
For 6 to 8 people as a main course
1) Preliminaries—may be done several hours before final cooking the fish:
3 to 4 lbs. assorted lean, firm-fleshed white fish, such as those suggested here
Prepare the fish as described, cutting it into chunks or steaks about 3 inches in diameter and 1 to 1½ inches thick. Refrigerate until cooking time.
the cooking broth:
1 cup each of sliced onions, carrots, and white of leek (or additional onion)
3 to 4 Tb olive oil
A heavy-bottomed 7- to 8- quart flameproof casserole or kettle
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 to 3 quarts fish trimmings, bones, heads; or 2 to 3 cups fish; or 1 quart clam juice
3 quarts water (2 quarts if you use clam juice)
2 cups dry white wine or 1½ cups dry white French vermouth
2 imported bay leaves
¼ tsp each of thyme, fennel, and dried orange peel
2 large cloves of garlic, unpeeled, halved
2 large pinches saffron flowers
1½ Tb salt (none if you use clam juice)
Cook the vegetables in oil over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Add the tomatoes and cook 2 minutes, then add all the rest of the ingredients. Bring to the simmer, skimming occasionally, and simmer partially covered for 40 minutes. Strain into a bowl, wash out casserole, and return the stock to it. Correct seasoning, adding salt if necessary.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If prepared in advance, cover when cool and refrigerate.
the aïoli mayonnaise:
⅓ cup stale crumbs from homemade-type unsweetened white bread
Wine vinegar
A heavy 2½-quart mixing bowl or a mortar
A wooden pestle, masher, or heavy ladle (for pounding)
6 to 8 cloves garlic and garlic press
½ tsp salt
6 egg yolks (2 now, the rest later)
1½ to 2 cups olive oil
A large wire whip
White or Cayenne pepper
Moisten crumbs with a tablespoon or two of vinegar and pound to a paste in the bowl. Purée garlic through press into the paste and continue pounding several minutes until absolutely smooth. Add salt and 2 of the egg yolks and pound until mixture is very thick and sticky. Then begin pounding and stirring in oil by droplets until sauce is thick and heavy. Thin out with drops of vinegar and begin beating in teaspoons of oil with whip. Sauce should be heavy enough to hold its shape in a spoon. Season to taste. (Note that a more detailed recipe on aïoli and on mayonnaise in general is in Volume I, page 92.)
A 2-cup serving bowl
Plastic wrap
A covered jar if needed
Scrape half the sauce into serving bowl, cover airtight, and set aside for dining room. Beat the 4 remaining egg yolks into the rest of the sauce; cover airtight. (If doing in advance, transfer to a smaller container and cover.) This second half is to be combined with the stew just before serving.
2) Cooking and serving cooking the fish:
The cooking broth
The prepared fish
A large perforated skimmer
A serving platter set over a pan of almost simmering water, and a cover
2 to 3 Tb coarsely chopped parsley
About 15 minutes before serving, bring cooking broth to a rolling boil and add the fish, pushing it down into the broth, which should barely cover it. (Add a little boiling water if necessary.) Boil slowly, uncovered, for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness of fish (2 to 3 minutes only for scallops); it is done when springy rather than squashy to the touch—do not overcook. As soon as fish is done, arrange on platter, moisten with a little of the cooking broth, decorate with parsley, and cover to keep it warm.
combining cooking broth and aïoli:
The egg-yolk enriched aïoli in a 3-quart bowl
A large wire whip, a ladle, and a wooden spoon
A 3-cup serving bowl
Salt and white pepper
A warm soup tureen
Whisking aïoli with wire whip, gradually dribble in several ladlesful of hot cooking broth until 2 to 3 cups have gone in. (Ladle a cup or so of broth also into serving bowl and keep warm.) Pour aïoli mixture back into casserole with rest of cooking stock and set over moderate heat. Stir continually and rather slowly with wooden spoon until broth slowly thickens enough to coat the spoon—4 to 5 minutes—being careful that liquid does not come to simmer and scramble the egg yolks. Carefully correct seasoning; broth will be a beautiful, smooth, richly aromatic yellow-ivory color. Pour it into the tureen and serve immediately.
serving:
12 or more slices of hot French bread, ¾ inch thick
Wide soup plates
The reserved plain broth
The hot fish on its platter, and the tureen
The reserved aïoli mayonnaise
For each serving, place 2 slices of bread in a soup plate and moisten with a spoonful of plain broth. Arrange chunks of fish over the bread and ladle over it the aïoli broth from the tureen. Each guest adds a spoonful of aïoli mayonnaise, and eats the bourride with soup spoon and fork.
CHAPTER TWO
Baking: Breads, Brioches, Croissants, and Pastries
YEAST DOUGHS
Les Pâtes Levées
THE AVERAGE FRENCH HOUSEHOLD does no yeast baking at all except for babas, savarins, and an occasional brioche. It certainly does no bread making, and there is no need to because every neighborhood has its own boulangerie serving freshly baked bread every day of the week but one, usually Monday, when the boulanger takes his day off. Thus you cannot even find a bread pan in a French household supply store, and there are no French recipes for homemade bread. All of the recipes here, therefore, are those used by professionals whose techniques we have worked out for the home baker, using standard ingredients and household equipment.
Whether you are a home or a professional baker, you will find that time is really the key to successful bread making. Just as it takes time for cheese to ripen and wine to age, it takes time for yeast to do its full work in a dough. The function of yeast is not only to push the dough up but, equally important, to develop its flavor and its texture. Yeast feeds and multiplies on the starch in the flour. Flour also contains gluten, and it is the gluten that allows the dough to rise and stay risen in the oven because gluten molecules become gluey when moistened and join together in an elastic web throughout the dough. Then, while the yeast cells are feeding and multiplying on the starch, their voracious activity forms tiny pockets of gas that push up the surrounding mesh of gluten, making the dough rise. At the same time the gluten itself, if given time, goes through a slow ripening process that gives the dough flavor, cohesion, and elasticity. These important developments in the gluten must take place if a very simple dough, such as that for plain French bread, is to turn into something splendidly satisfying to eat. Thus, rather than trying to speed things up by using lots of yeast and a warm rising temperature, you want to provide time for ripening by slowing everything down with a minimum of yeast, a tepid temperature, and several risings.
Many reasons are given for the doleful state of much contemporary bread both here and in France: it is not baked in wood-fired ovens; both the flour and water are full of chemicals; it is machine-kneaded; and so forth. The villain in the bread basket is speed: the yeast has not been given the time it needs to accomplish its triple function of developing flavor and texture as well as volume.
YEAST
Yeast is a living organism, but it is inactive or dormant when you buy it, either as a fresh cake wrapped in silver paper or as dry yeast in a sealed envelope. Fresh cake yeast must be a uniformly creamy gray with no spots of discoloration, and is perishable; it will keep only about a week under refrigeration but for several weeks when wrapped airtight and frozen. Dry-active yeast should be stored in a cool, dry place, or in the refrigerator or freezer; use it before the expiration date stamped on the envelope. Either type of yeast may be used, but both must be completely liquefied before the yeast is ready to become active. Although you can mix it, as is, into the dry ingredients and blend in warm water, we prefer the almost as rapid but visually positive method of liquefying it separately.
Proving yeast
When you know your yeast is fresh, you need have no doubts about its capacities. If you think it may be stale do not hesitate to make it prove itself by dissolving it in the warm water called for in your recipe; stir in also a tablespoon of flour and a pinch of sugar. It is active and ready to use if it begins to foam and to increase in volume in about 8 minutes: the yeast cells, spurred on by the sugar, are feeding on the flour.
DOUGH TEXTURE, VOLUME OF RISE, TEMPERATURE
Anyone used to American bread making will be surprised to find that the doughs for all of the following recipes are light, soft, and sticky when first made because the dough is to triple rather than double in volume during its first and usually its second rise: this is the period during which it develops its flavor and texture. Rather than rising in a warm place of around 85 degrees, which would cause it to ferment and acquire an unpleasant yeasty-sour taste, it must rise in the low 70’s if you can possibly manage it, or at an even lower temperature if you wish to delay the process.
THE WEATHER
We therefore suggest that you do not attempt your first bread-making spree in a hot kitchen. When you are used to doughs and know how they should look, smell, and feel, you can adjust your procedures to the weather, letting the dough rise part of the time in the refrigerator, for instance, or deflating it when partially risen and letting it push itself up several times. Rainy or humid weather and steamy rooms also have their adverse affect, making dough unduly sticky, even sweaty; pick a dry day and a dry room, then, for your first venture. In other words, make everything as easy as possible for yourself.
TIMING AND DELAYED ACTION
Although it will take you a minimum of 7 hours from start to finish for most of these recipes, that does not mean that you are hovering over your dough for 7 straight hours. During almost all of this time the dough is sitting quietly by itself, rising in one form or another. Because you can slow down the rise by lowering the temperature, you may set it in the refrigerator or the freezer when you have to go out, and continue when you return. Thus, although you cannot successfully speed things up, you can otherwise fit bread making into almost any pattern that suits your schedule. Each of the recipes indicates various stopping points, and there is a delayed-action chart at the end of the French bread recipe.
MACHINE VERSUS HAND MIXING
A heavy-duty table-model electric beater with a dough hook works very well for mixing and kneading dough, and can be adapted nicely to the French processes. Notes are at the end of each Master Recipe.
PLAIN FRENCH BREAD
Pain Français
A fine loaf of plain French bread, the long crackly kind a Frenchman tucks under his arm as he hurries home to the family lunch, has a very special quality. Its inside is patterned with holes almost like Swiss cheese, and when you tear off a piece it wants to come sideways; it has body, chewability, and tastes and smells of the grain. Plain French bread contains only flour, water, salt, and yeast, because that is the law in France. The method, however, is up to each individual baker. Until the 1800’s and before commercial yeast was known, all bread was made with a levain, meaning dough left over from the previous batch; the procedure involved numerous risings and mixings to develop sufficient yeast cells for the day’s quota of bread. Later a brewer’s-yeast-and-flour batter was developed that simplified the process, but it was not until the 1870’s that the kind of yeast we use today was manufactured in France. Since then the making of French bread has undergone many changes, some of which, notably the accelerated mechanical kneading and fast rising systems used by some bakers, have had a disastrous affect on quality. Again, this is a question of trying to save time at the expense of taste and texture, because excellent bread may be made using modern ingredients, equipment, and methods.
We have had the great good fortune of being able to work with Professor R. Calvel, of the École Professionelle de Meunerie, a trade school established in Paris to teach the profession of milling and baking to students and bakers from all over France. The science of bread making and the teaching of its art are the life work of Professor Calvel, and thanks to his enthusiastic help, which set us on the right track, we think we have developed as professional a system for the home baker as anyone could hope for. You will be amazed at how very different the process is from anything you have done before, from the mixing and rising to the very special method of forming the dough into loaves.
FLOUR
French bakers make plain French bread out of unbleached flour that has a gluten strength of 8 to 9 per cent. Most American all-purpose flour is bleached and has a slightly higher gluten content as well as being slightly finer in texture. It is easier to make bread with French flour than with American all-purpose flour, and the taste and texture of the bread are naturally more authentic. (The so-called bread flour available in some mail-order houses usually has an even higher gluten content than all-purpose flour, so do not use it for plain French bread.) You will undoubtedly wish to experiment with flours if you become a serious bread maker, but because we find that any of the familiar brands of all-purpose flour works very well, we shall not complicate the recipe by suggesting an obscure or special brand. If you do experiment, however, simply substitute your other flour for the amount called for in the recipe; you may need a little bit more water or a little bit less, but the other ingredients and the method will not change.
BAKERS’ OVENS VERSUS HOME OVENS
Bakers’ ovens are so constructed that one slides the formed bread dough from a wooden paddle right onto the hot, fire-brick oven floor, and a steam-injection system humidifies the oven for the first few minutes of baking. Steam allows the yeast to work a little longer in the dough and this, combined with a hot baking surface, produces an extra push of volume. In addition, steam coagulating the starch on the surface of the dough gives the crust its characteristic brown color. Although you can produce a good loaf of French bread without steam or a hot baking surface, you will get a larger and handsomer loaf when you simulate professional conditions. We give both systems—the Master Recipe, which requires no special equipment, and the simulated baker’s oven system.
SOUR DOUGH
Sour dough is an American invention, not French, and you will not find anything like American sour dough in France. But you can adapt your sour dough recipe to the method described here for plain French bread. We think you will find that our recipe will give you an excellent result.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR MAKING FRENCH BREAD
Unless you plan to go into the more elaborate simulation of a baker’s oven, you need no unusual equipment for the following recipe. Here are the requirements, some of which may sound odd but will explain themselves when you read the recipe.
A 4- to 5-quart mixing bowl with fairly vertical rather than outward-slanting sides
A kneading surface of some sort, 1½ to 2 square feet
A rubber spatula and either a metal scraper or a stiff wide metal spatula
1 or 2 unwrinkled canvas pastry cloths or stiff linen towels upon which the dough may rise
A stiff piece of cardboard or plywood 18 to 20 inches long and 6 to 8 inches wide, for unmolding dough from canvas to baking sheet
Finely ground cornmeal, or pasta pulverized in an electric blender, to sprinkle on unmolding board so as to prevent dough from sticking
The largest baking sheet that will fit into your oven
A razor blade for slashing the top of the dough
A soft pastry brush or fine-spray atomizer for moistening dough before and during baking
A room thermometer to verify rising-temperature
PAIN FRANÇAIS
[Plain French Bread]
Count on a minimum of 6½ to 7 hours from the time you start the dough to the time it is ready for the oven, and half an hour for baking. While you cannot take less time, you may take as much more time as you wish by using the delayed-action techniques described at the end of the recipe.
For 1 pound of flour, making 3 cups of dough, producing:
3 long loaves, baguettes, 24 by 2 inches, or bâtards, 16 by 3 inches
Or 6 short loaves, ficelles, 12 to 16 by 2 inches
Or 3 round loaves, boules, 7 to 8 inches in diameter
Or 12 round or oval rolls, petits pains
Or 1 large round or oval loaf, pain de ménage or miche; pain boulot
1) The dough mixture—le fraisage (or frasage)
NOTE: List of equipment needed is in paragraph preceding this recipe.
1 cake (0.6 ounce) fresh yeast or 1 package dry-active yeast
⅓ cup warm water (not over 100 degrees) in a measure
3½ cups (about 1 lb.) all-purpose flour, measured by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and sweeping off excess
2¼ tsp salt
1¼ cups tepid water (70 to 74 degrees)
Stir the yeast in the warm water and let liquefy completely while measuring flour into mixing bowl. When yeast has liquefied, pour it into the flour along with the salt and the rest of the water.
NOTE: We do not find the food processor satisfactory here, since the dough is so soft the machine clogs; however, you can use a heavy-duty mixer with dough hook, and finish it up by hand.
Stir and cut the liquids into the flour with a rubber spatula, pressing firmly to form a dough, and making sure that all bits of flour and unmassed pieces are gathered in. Turn dough out onto kneading surface, scraping bowl clean. Dough will be soft and sticky. Let it rest for 2 to 3 minutes while you wash and dry the bowl. |
2) Kneading—pétrissage
The flour will have absorbed the liquid during this short rest, and the dough will have a little more cohesion for the kneading that is about to begin. Use one hand only for kneading and keep the other clean to hold a pastry scraper, to dip out extra flour, to answer the telephone, and so forth. Your object in kneading is to render the dough perfectly smooth and to work it sufficiently so that all the gluten molecules are moistened and joined together into an interlocking web. You cannot see this happen, of course, but you can feel it because the dough will become elastic and will retract into shape when you push it out.
Start kneading by lifting the near edge of the dough, using a pastry scraper or stiff wide spatula to help you if necessary, and flipping dough over onto itself. Scrape the dough off the surface and slap it down; lift edge and flip it over again, repeating the movement rapidly. |
In 2 to 3 minutes the dough should have enough body so that you can give it a quick forward push with the heel of your hand as you flip it over. Continue to knead rapidly and vigorously in this way. If it remains too sticky, knead in a sprinkling of flour. (Whole kneading process will take 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how vigorous and expert you become.) |
Shortly after this point, the dough should have developed enough elasticity so that it draws back into shape when pushed, indicating that the gluten molecules have united and are under tension like a thin web of rubber; the dough should also begin to clean itself off the kneading surface, although it will stick to your fingers if you hold a pinch for more than a second or two. Let it rest for 3 to 4 minutes. Knead again for a minute: the surface should now look smooth; the dough will be less sticky but it will still remain soft. It is now ready for its first rise.
3) First rising—pointage premier temps (3 to 5 hours at around 70 degrees)
You now have approximately 3 cups of dough that is to rise 3½ times its original volume, or to about 10½ cups. Fill the mixing bowl with 10½ cups of tepid water and make a mark to indicate that level on the outside of the bowl (note that the bowl should have fairly upright sides; if they are too outward slanting, the dough will have difficulty rising). Pour out the water, dry the bowl, and place the dough in it; slip bowl into a large plastic bag or cover with plastic, and top with a folded bath towel. Set on a wooden surface (marble or stone are too cold) or on a folded towel or pillow, and let rise free from drafts anyplace where the temperature is around 70 degrees; if the room is too hot, set bowl in water and keep renewing water to maintain it at around 70 degrees. Dough should take at least 3 hours to rise to 10½ cups; if the temperature is lower, it will simply take longer.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: See chart at end of recipe.
When fully risen, the dough will be humped into a slight dome, showing that the yeast is still active; it will be light and spongy when pressed. There will usually be some big bubbly blisters on the surface, and if you are using a glass bowl you will see bubbles through the glass.
4) Deflating and second rising—rupture; pointage deuxième temps (1½ to 2 hours at around 70 degrees)
The dough is now ready to be deflated, which will release the yeast-engendered gases and redistribute the yeast cells so that the dough will rise again and continue the fermentation process.
With a rubber spatula dislodge dough from inside of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface, scraping the bowl clean. If dough seems damp and sweaty, sprinkle with a tablespoon of flour. |
Lightly flour the palms of your hands and flatten the dough firmly but not too roughly into a circle, deflating any gas bubbles by pinching them. |
Lift a corner of the near side and flip it down onto the far side. Do the same with the left side, then the right side. Finally lift the near side and tuck it just under the edge of the far side. The mass of dough will look like a rounded cushion. |
Slip the sides of your hands under the dough and return it to the bowl. Cover and let rise again, this time to not quite triple, but again until it is dome-shaped and light and spongy when touched.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: See chart at end of recipe.
5) Cutting and resting dough before forming loaves
Loosen dough all around inside of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Because of its two long rises, the dough will have much more body. If it seems damp and sweaty, sprinkle lightly with flour.
Making clean, sure cuts with a large knife or a scraper, divide dough into 3 equal pieces for long loaves, or whatever is specified for other shapes and sizes. |
After you have cut each piece, lift one end and flip it over onto the opposite end to fold the dough in two; place dough at far side of kneading surface. Cover loosely with a sheet of plastic and let rest for 5 minutes before forming. This relaxes the gluten enough for shaping, but not long enough for the dough to begin rising again. |
While the dough is resting, prepare the rising surface: smooth the canvas or linen toweling on a large tray or baking sheet, and rub flour thoroughly into the entire surface of the cloth to prevent the dough from sticking.
6) Forming loaves—la tourne; la mise en forme des pâtons
Because French bread stands free in the oven and is not baked in a pan, it has to be formed in such a way that the tension of the coagulated gluten cloak on the surface will hold the dough in shape. Following are illustrated directions for the familiar long loaf—the bâtards (baked size 16 by 3 inches); other shapes are described and illustrated at the end of the recipe. Baguettes are much too long for home ovens.
After the 3 pieces of dough have rested 5 minutes, form one piece at a time, keeping the remaining ones covered.
Working rapidly, turn the dough upside down on a lightly floured kneading surface and pat it firmly but not too roughly into an 8- to 10-inch oval with the lightly floured palms of your hands. Deflate any gas bubbles in the dough by pinching them. |
Fold the dough in half lengthwise by bringing the far edge down over the near edge. |
Being sure that the working surface is always very lightly floured so the dough will not stick and tear, which would break the lightly coagulated gluten cloak that is being formed, seal the edges of the dough together, your hands extended, thumbs out at right angles and touching. |
Roll the dough a quarter turn forward so the seal is on top. |
Flatten the dough again into an oval with the palms of your hands. |
Press a trench along the central length of the oval with the side of one hand. |
Fold in half again lengthwise. |
This time seal the edges together with the heel of one hand, and roll the dough a quarter turn toward you so the seal is on the bottom. |
Now, by rolling the dough back and forth with the palms of your hands, you will lengthen it into a sausage shape. Start in the middle, placing your right palm on the dough, and your left palm on top of your right hand. |
Roll dough forward and backward rapidly, gradually sliding your hands toward the two ends as the dough lengthens. |
Deflate any gas blisters on the surface by pinching them. Repeat the rolling movement rapidly several times until the dough is 16 inches long, or whatever length will fit on your baking sheet. During the extension rolls, keep circumference of dough as even as possible and try to start each roll with sealed side of dough down, twisting the rope of dough to straighten the line of seal as necessary. If seal disappears, as it sometimes does with all-purpose flour, do not worry.
Place the shaped piece of dough, sealed side up, at one side of the flour-rubbed canvas, leaving a free end of canvas 3 to 4 inches wide. (The top will crust slightly as the dough rises; it is turned over for baking so the soft, smooth underside will be uppermost.) |
Pinch a ridge 2½ to 3 inches high in the canvas to make a trough, and a place for the next piece. Cover dough with plastic while you are forming the rest of the loaves. |
After all the pieces of dough are in place, brace the two sides of the canvas with long rolling pins, baking pans, or books, if the dough seems very soft and wants to spread out. Cover the dough loosely with a flour-rubbed dish towel or canvas, and a sheet of plastic. Proceed immediately to the final rising, next step. |
7) Final rise—l’apprêt—1½ to 2½ hours at around 70 degrees
The covered dough is now to rise to almost triple in volume; look carefully at its pre-risen size so that you will be able to judge correctly. It will be light and swollen when risen, but will feel still a little springy when pressed.
It is important that the final rise take place where it is dry; if your kitchen is damp, hot, and steamy, let the bread rise in another room or dough will stick to canvas and you will have difficulty getting it off and onto the baking sheet. It will turn into bread in the oven whatever happens, but you will have an easier time and a better loaf if you aim for ideal conditions.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees 30 minutes before estimated baking time.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: See chart at end of recipe.
8) Unmolding risen dough onto baking sheet—le démoulage
The 3 pieces of risen dough are now to be unmolded from the canvas and arranged upside down on the baking sheet. The reason for this reversal is that the present top of the dough has crusted over during its rise; the smooth, soft underside should be uppermost in the oven so that the dough can expand and allow the loaf its final puff of volume. For the unmolding you will need a non-sticking intermediate surface such as a stiff piece of cardboard or plywood sprinkled with cornmeal or pulverized pasta.
Remove rolling pins or braces. Place the long side of the board at one side of the dough; pull the edge of the canvas to flatten it; then raise and flip the dough softly upside down onto the board. |
Dough is now lying along one edge of the unmolding board: rest this edge on the right side of a lightly buttered baking sheet. Gently dislodge dough onto baking sheet, keeping same side of dough uppermost: this is the soft smooth side, which was underneath while dough rose on canvas. If necessary, run sides of hands lightly down the length of the dough to straighten it. Unmold the next piece of dough the same way, placing it to the left of the first, leaving a 3-inch space. Unmold the final piece near the left side of the sheet.
9) Slashing top of the dough—la coupe
The top of each piece of dough is now to be slashed in several places. This opens the covering cloak of gluten and allows a bulge of dough underneath to swell up through the cuts during the first 10 minutes of baking, making decorative patterns in the crust. These are done with a blade that cuts almost horizontally into the dough to a depth of less than half an inch. Start the cut at the middle of the blade, drawing toward you in a swift, clean sweep. This is not quite as easy as it sounds, and you will probably make ragged cuts at first; never mind, you will improve with practice. Use an ordinary razor blade and slide one side of it into a cork for safety; or buy a barber’s straight razor at a cutlery store.
For a 16- to 18-inch loaf make 3 slashes. Note that those at the 2 ends go straight down the loaf but are slightly off center, while the middle slash is at a slight angle between the two. Make the first cut at the far end, then the middle cut, and finally the third. Remember that the blade should lie almost parallel to the surface of the dough. |
As soon as the dough has been slashed, moisten the surface either by painting with a soft brush dipped in cold water, or with a fine-spray atomizer, and slide baking sheet onto rack in upper third of preheated oven. Rapidly paint or spray dough with cold water after 3 minutes, again in 3 minutes, and a final time 3 minutes later. Moistening the dough at this point helps the crust to brown and allows the yeast action to continue in the dough a little longer. The bread should be done in about 25 minutes; the crust will be crisp, and the bread will make a hollow sound when thumped.
If you want the crust to shine, paint lightly with a brush dipped in cold water as soon as you slide baking sheet out of oven.
11) Cooling—2 to 3 hours
Cool the bread on a rack or set it upright in a basket or large bowl so that air can circulate freely around each piece. Although bread is always exciting to eat fresh from the oven, it will have a much better taste when the inside is thoroughly cool and has composed itself.
12) Storing French bread
Because it contains no fats or preservatives of any kind, French bread is at its best when eaten the day it is baked. It will keep for a day or two longer, wrapped airtight and refrigerated, but it will keep best if you freeze it—let the loaves cool first, then wrap airtight. To thaw, unwrap and place on a baking sheet in a cold oven; heat the oven to 400 degrees. In about 20 minutes the crust will be hot and crisp, and the bread thawed. The French, of course, never heat French bread except possibly on Monday, the baker’s holiday, when the bread is a day old.
13) Canvas housekeeping
After each bread session, if you have used canvas, brush it thoroughly to remove all traces of flour and hang it out to dry before putting away. Otherwise the canvas could become moldy and ruin your next batch of dough.
DELAYED ACTION
Starting and stopping the dough process
As noted in the Master Recipe, there are numerous points at which you can slow down the action or stop it altogether, by setting the dough in a colder place, or refrigerating or freezing it. Exact timings for any of these delaying procedures are impossible to give because so much depends on what has taken place during the slow-down, how cold the dough is when it starts to rise again, and so forth. All you need to remember is that you are in complete control: you can always push down a partially risen dough; you can slow the action with cold; you can speed it with warmth. You will work out your own systems and the following chart will help you:
TO DELAY THE FIRST RISING, SET DOUGH IN A COLDER PLACE
Approximate Hours of Rise | at Degrees F. |
5–6 | 65 |
7–8 | 55 |
9–10 | Refrigerator |
TO STOP ACTION ALTOGETHER AFTER FIRST OR SECOND RISE
Deflate, wrap airtight, and freeze. Limit: A week to 10 days, probably more for plain French bread dough, and risky after 10 days for doughs with butter and eggs. (We shall not venture farther upon this uncertain limb.)
TO DELAY SECOND RISING
a) Set dough in a colder place.
b) Set a plate on top of dough and a 5-lb. weight; refrigerate.
TO DELAY OR FREEZE AFTER DOUGH IS FORMED
a) Set dough in a colder place.
b) Form dough on lightly oiled sheet; cover airtight and refrigerate or freeze, but note preceding time limit.
TO START ACTION AFTER THAWING
a) Thaw overnight in refrigerator; complete the rise at room temperature.
b) Set at 80 degrees until thawed; complete the rise at room temperature.
VARIATIONS
Other Forms for French Bread
Long thin loaves (ficelles, baked size: 12 to 16 by 1½ inches)
Cut the original dough, Step 5, into 5 or 6 pieces and form as illustrated in the recipe, but making thinner sausage shapes about ½ inch in diameter. When they have risen, slash as illustrated, Step 9.
Oval rolls (petits pains, tire-bouchons)
Cut the dough into 10 or 12 pieces and form like bâtards, but you will probably not have to lengthen them at all after the two foldings and sealings. When they have risen, make either 2 parallel slashes, or a single slash going from one end to the other.
Round loaves (pain de ménage, miches, boules)
When you want bread for big sandwiches or for toast, a big round loaf is attractive. The object here is to force the cloak of coagulated gluten to hold the ball of dough in shape: the first movement will make a cushion; the second will seal and round the ball, establishing surface tension. To begin the process, after the risen dough has been cut and has rested 5 minutes, Step 5, place it on a lightly floured surface.
Lift the left side of the dough with the side of your left hand and bring it down almost to the other side. |
Scoop up that side and push it back almost to the left side. Revolve dough a quarter turn clockwise and repeat the movement eight to ten times. This movement gradually smooths the bottom of the dough and establishes the necessary surface tension; think of the surface of the dough as if it were a fine sheet of rubber you were stretching in every direction. |
Then turn the dough smooth side up and begin rotating it between the palms of your hands, tucking a bit of the dough under the ball as you rotate it. In a dozen turns you should have a neatly shaped ball with a little pucker of dough, la clé, underneath where the edges have all joined together. |
Place the dough pucker side up on flour-rubbed canvas; seal the pucker by pinching with your fingers. Flour lightly, cover loosely, and let rise to almost triple its size. After unmolding upside down on the baking sheet, slash it as follows:
Large loaves are usually slashed in a cross: make one vertical slash and complete the horizontal cuts as illustrated. Medium loaves may have a cross, a single central slash, or a semicircular slash around half the circumference. |
Round rolls (petits pains, champignons)
Cut the original dough, Step 5, into 10 to 12 pieces. After they have rested 5 minutes, form them one at a time, leaving the rest of the dough covered. The principles are the same here as for the preceding round loaves, but make the preliminary cushion shape with your fingers rather than the palms of your hands.
For the second stage, during which the ball of dough is rotated smooth side up, roll it under the palm of one hand, using your thumb and little finger to push the edges of the dough underneath and to form the pucker, where the edges join together. |
Place the formed ball of dough pucker side up on the flour-rubbed canvas and cover loosely while forming the rest. Space the balls 2 inches apart. When risen to almost triple its size, lift gently with lightly floured fingers and place pucker side down on baking sheet. Rolls are usually too small for a cross; make either one central slash or the semicircular cut.
THE SIMULATED BAKER’S OVEN
Baking in the ordinary way, as described in the preceding recipe, produces an acceptable loaf of bread, but does not nearly approach the glory you can achieve when you turn your home oven into a baker’s oven. Merely providing yourself with the proper amount of steam, if you do nothing else, will vastly improve the crust, the color, the slash patterns, and the volume of your bread; steam is only a matter of plopping a heated brick or stone into a pan of water in the bottom of the oven. The second provision is a hot surface upon which the naked dough can bake; this gives that added push of volume that improves both the appearance and the slash patterns. When you have the hot baking surface, you will then also need a paddle or board upon which you can transfer dough from canvas to hot baking surface. For the complete setup, here is what you should have, and any building-supply store stocks these items.
For the hot baking surface
Metal will not do as a hot baking surface because it burns the bottom of the dough. The most practical and easily obtainable substance is ordinary red floor tiles ¼ inch thick. They come in various sizes such as 6 by 6 inches, 6 by 3 inches, and you need only enough to line the surface of an oven rack. Look them up under Tiles in your directory, and ask for “quarry tiles,” their official name.
For unmolding the risen dough from its canvas
A piece of 3⁄16-inch plywood about 20 inches long and 8 inches wide.
For sliding the dough onto the hot asbestos
When you are doing 3 long loaves, you must slide them together onto the hot asbestos; to do so you unmold them one at a time from the canvas with one board and arrange them side by side on the second board, which takes the place of the baker’s wooden paddle, la pelle. Buy a piece of 3⁄16-inch plywood slightly longer but 2 inches narrower than your oven rack.
To prevent dough from sticking to unmolding and sliding boards
White cornmeal or small pasta pulverized in the electric blender until it is the consistency of table salt. This is called fleurage.
The steam contraption
Something that you can heat to sizzling hot on top of the stove and then slide into a pan of water in the oven to make a great burst of steam: a brick, a solid 10-lb. rock, piece of cast iron or other metal. A 9 × 12-inch roasting pan 2 inches deep to hold an inch of water and the hot brick.
Nonessential professional equipment
Instead of letting the formed dough rise on canvas, sur couche, many French bakers place each piece in a canvas-lined wicker or plastic form called a banneton; from this you turn the risen dough upside down directly onto a board and then slide it into the oven. Various sizes and shapes are available in French bakery-supply houses.
These are bakers’s blades, lames, for slashing dough; they are about 4 inches long and ¼ inch wide, with very sharp, curved ends. |
USING THE SIMULATED BAKER’S OVEN
At least 30 to 40 minutes before the end of the final rise, Step 7 in the Master Recipe, line the rack of your oven with quarry tiles, slide onto upper-third level, and preheat oven to 450 degrees. At the same time set the brick or metal over very high heat on top of the stove so that it will get sizzling hot, the hotter the better.
Provide yourself with 2 stiff spoons or spatulas, or with fire tongs for lifting brick from stove top into pan of water in bottom of oven when the time comes, and test lifting the brick to be sure you have the instruments to do the job. NOTE: You may use a spray bottle rather than a brick; it works reasonably well though less dramatically. |
When the final rise is complete, sprinkle pulverized cornmeal or pasta on the long side of the unmolding board and on the surface of the sliding board. Your object now is to unmold the loaves one at a time from the canvas to the sliding board, then to slide the 3 of them together onto the hot tiles in the oven. Place the long side of board at one side of the dough, then raise and flip the dough softly upside down onto board. |
Slip the dough, still upside down, from the unmolding board onto the right side of the sliding board. Line up the rest of the dough side by side in the same manner.
Slash the dough as described in Step 9.
Place pan of cold water on the lowest rack of an electric oven, or on the floor of a gas oven, add sizzling hot brick, and close oven door.
The 3 pieces of dough are now to be slid together off the sliding board onto the hot tiles in the oven: the movement is one quick, smooth jerk like that old magician’s trick of pulling the cloth from under a tableful of dishes. Open the oven and, holding the sliding board at the two ends nearest you, rapidly extend your arms so the far end of the board rests on the far end of the asbestos at the back of the oven. Then with one quick jerk, pull the board toward you and the three loaves will slide off onto the tiles. This must be a fast and confident action because if you pause midway, the dough will rumple off the board and once it touches the hot tiles you cannot move or reshape it, although it will come loose after 5 to 6 minutes of baking. You may muff this every once in a while, and produce some queerly deformed shapes, but they will all bake into bread.
Remove the brick and pan of water after 5 to 8 minutes of baking; the crust will have started to brown lightly. The oven should be dry for the rest of the baking. Total baking time will be about 25 minutes for bâtards; the bread is done when it makes a hollow thump if tapped, and when the crust is crisp and, hopefully, nicely browned.
SELF-CRITICISM—OR HOW TO IMPROVE THE PRODUCT
Certainly one of the fascinating aspects of cooking is that you can almost endlessly improve upon what you have done, and when you realize that professional bakers have spent years learning their trade it would be surprising indeed if your first loaves were perfect in every respect. If they seem below standard in any of the following points, here are some possible explanations.
Crust did not brown
If you have not used the hot brick and pan of water steam-contraption, you will not get a very brown crust. Or if you have used the brick, perhaps it was not really sizzling hot; heat it 15 minutes longer the next time, or use 2 bricks. On the other hand, your oven thermostat might be inaccurate, and the oven was not really at the required 450 degrees. A third possibility is that your dough might have been under-salted; check your measurements carefully in Step 1 the next time.
Crust was too brown or too red
If you were using the brick system, you might have had too much steam in the oven; next time use a smaller brick, or heat it a little less, or take it out several minutes sooner. Another possibility is that the dough mixture in Step 1 got an overdose of salt, and salt affects color; next time be sure your teaspoons are level.
Crust was tough
A tough crust is usually due to humidity: the day was damp and sticky, or your kitchen was steamy, and the starch has coagulated and hardened on the surface of the dough.
Slashes did not bulge open in the crust
Go over the instructions in Step 9 to check on whether you cut them as directed. On the other hand, it might be that the bread had over-risen in Step 7, just before baking, and the yeast had no strength left for its final push in the oven. Conversely, you might not have let it rise enough in this step and the dough was too heavy to bulge out the way it should.
Bread seems heavy; no holes inside
This is always due to insufficient rising, particularly during the pre-bake rise in Step 7. Next time be sure it feels light and springy, and looks swollen, and that it has risen to almost triple its original size before it goes into the oven.
Flavor is uninteresting
Again, the only reason for this is insufficient time taken for rising: the yeast has not had an opportunity to produce the slow aging and maturing that develops flavor. For your next batch, follow the timing and temperature requirements particularly in Step 3, for the first rise.
Flavor is unpleasantly yeasty or sour
A yeasty over-fermented smell and taste are due more often to the dough having risen at too high a temperature than to its having over-risen. Next time, watch the room temperature at which it is rising, and if you are making bread in hot weather, you will have to take a longer time and let it rise in the refrigerator.
MACHINE MIXING AND KNEADING OF FRENCH BREAD DOUGH
French bread dough is too soft to work in the electric food processor, but the heavy-duty mixer with dough hook, illustrated in the equipment section at the end of the book, works perfectly. The dough-hook attachment that comes with some hand-held electric mixers and the hand-cranking bread pails are slower and less efficient, to our mind, than hand kneading. In any case, when you are using electricity, follow the steps in the recipe as outlined, including the rests; do not over-knead, and for the heavy-duty mixer, do not go over a moderate speed of number 3 or 4, or you risk breaking down the gluten in the dough. When the kneading is finished, take the dough out of the bowl and give it a minute or so of hand kneading, just to be sure it is smooth and elastic throughout. Then proceed with the recipe as usual, from Step 3 on.
PAIN DE MIE
[White Sandwich Bread—for sandwiches, canapés, toast, and croûtons]
It is almost impossible in present-day America to find the firm, close-grained, evenly rectangular, unsliced type of white bread that is essential for professional-looking canapés, appetizers, and fancy sandwiches. In French this is pain de mie, meaning that the mie, the crumb or inside, is more important than the crust; in fact the crust exists merely as a thin and easily sliced covering. French boulangeries form and bake the bread in special covered molds; the bread rises during baking so that it fills the mold completely and emerges absolutely symmetrical. The form can be round or cylindrical, but it is usually rectangular. You can easily achieve the round or the rectangular shapes by baking in any straight-sided bread pan or baking dish, covering the pan with foil and a baking sheet, and topping that with some kind of weight to keep the bread from pushing up out of shape while it is in the oven.
For about 1 pound of flour, making 3 cups of dough, to fill one 8-cup covered pan or two 4-cup covered pans
1) The preliminary dough mixture—le fraisage. Either by hand:
1 cake (0.6 ounce) fresh yeast, or 1 package dry-active yeast
3 Tb warm water (not over 100 degrees) in a measure
2 tsp salt
1⅓ cups tepid milk in a measure
3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour (scooped and leveled)
A 4- to 5-quart bowl with fairly straight sides
A rubber spatula, and a pastry scraper or stiff metal blade
Mix the yeast in the warm water and let it liquefy completely while measuring out the rest of the ingredients. Dissolve the salt in the tepid milk. Measure the flour into the mixing bowl. Then stir in the liquefied yeast and salted milk with a rubber spatula, cutting and pressing the dough firmly together into a mass, being sure all bits of flour and unblended pieces are gathered in. Turn dough out onto a flat kneading surface, scraping bowl clean. Dough will be quite soft and sticky; let it rest for 2 to 3 minutes while you wash and dry the bowl.
Start kneading by lifting the near side of the dough, using a scraper or spatula to help you, and flipping it over onto the other side. Scrape dough off surface and slap down again; lift, flip over and slap down again, repeating the movement rapidly. |
In 2 to 3 minutes dough should have enough body so that you can give it a quick forward push with the heel of your hand as you flip it over. If it remains too sticky for this, knead in a sprinkling of flour. When it begins to clean itself off the working surface and draw back into shape, it is ready for the next step—kneading in the butter. |
3) Kneading in the butter
4 Tb (½ stick) chilled butter
When butter is incorporated into a dough in most French recipes, it is added after kneading.
Soften the butter by beating it with a rolling pin. Then smear it out with a scraper, spatula, or the heel of your hand until it is soft and malleable but still cold. |
By tablespoon bits, start rapidly folding and smearing the butter into the dough with the heel (not the palm) of your hand, then gather the dough into a mass with your scraper and smear again. Keep working in more bits of butter as each previous addition is partially absorbed. |
Dough will be ropy, very messy, and even stickier until it begins to absorb the butter. Work fast to prevent the butter from turning oily, always using the heel of your hand, and also cutting the dough with scraper or spatula. In a few minutes dough will again become smooth and elastic. Proceed to Step 4. |
Or make the preliminary dough in the food processor (steel blade):
Using the same proportions as for hand-made dough, dissolve the yeast and add it to the salted milk. Place the 3½ cups of flour in the container of the food processor (unless you have a small machine, in which case divide all ingredients by half and do it in two batches). Cut the butter into pieces, and add to the flour, along with the salt. Process for several seconds until butter is broken into flour, then with the processor going, pour in 1¼ cups of yeast-milk; continue pouring by driblets, watching carefully, until dough balls up on top of steel blade. Process, with dough riding on blade, for 15 seconds—this constitutes the preliminary kneading. Turn the dough out onto your work surface and proceed to Step 4, below.
NOTE: If you happen to add too much liquid and the machine clogs, sprinkle in more flour and the machine will often start up again. If not, remove dough and continue by hand.
4) Then let the dough rest 2 to 3 minutes. Knead again briefly with the heel of your hand until dough begins to clean the butter off the kneading surface and off your hand. It is now sufficiently kneaded, although it will remain quite soft and somewhat sticky.
5) First rising—pointage premier temps—3 to 4 hours at around 70 degrees
The clean 4- to 5-quart mixing bowl
A large plastic bag that bowl will fit into, or a large sheet of plastic
A bath towel
You will have about 3 cups of unrisen dough, and it is to rise 3½ times in volume or to 10½ cups. Fill the bowl with 10½ cups of tepid water and make a mark on the outside to guide you; pour out the water, dry the bowl, and place the dough in it. Slip bowl into plastic bag or top with plastic and cover with the towel. Set on a wooden or plastic surface or on a folded towel or pillow and place at a temperature of 68 to 72 degrees.
Dough should take a minimum of 3 hours to rise for the yeast to do its best work. When dough has risen to the 10½-cup mark, or to 3½ times its original volume, it will feel light and springy when pressed, and is ready for its second rise.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: See chart.
6) Deflating and second rising—rupture; pointage deuxième temps—1½ to 2 hours at around 70 degrees
The dough is now to be thoroughly deflated and folded to expel accumulated gas, and to redistribute the yeast into an even finer network of gluten that will result in a close-grained texture when the bread is baked.
With a rubber spatula or the slightly cupped fingers of one hand, dislodge dough from inside of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface, scraping the bowl clean. If dough seems damp and sweaty, sprinkle with a tablespoon of flour. |
With the lightly floured palms of your hands, pat and push the dough out onto a roughly shaped rectangle 10 to 12 inches long. |
With the help of a scraper or spatula, fold the right side over toward the center, then fold the left side over to cover it, as though folding a business letter. Pat the dough out again into a rectangle, fold again in three, and put the dough back in the bowl. Cover with plastic and towel and let rise a second time, to not quite triple in volume, or to slightly below the 10½-cup mark on the bowl. |
White vegetable shortening
An 8-cup rectangular breadpan with vertical or only slightly outward-slanting sides (for example, 9½ by 5½ inches, 2¾ inches deep), or a round pan, or two 4-cup pans
Remember to preheat oven to 435 degrees in time for next step. Grease inside of bread pan (if pan is new, grease heavily then roll flour around inside and knock out excess). With a rubber spatula or the slightly cupped fingers of one hand, loosen dough from bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. If you are making 2 loaves, cut dough cleanly in half with one chop of a long knife. Lift one end of dough and flip it over on to its opposite end. To relax the gluten and make dough easier to form, let rest 7 to 8 minutes covered with plastic.
Following are illustrated directions for forming rectangular loaves. For cylindrical and circular forms, use the French bread system.
With the lightly floured palms of your hands, pat and push the dough out into a roughly shaped rectangle slightly longer than your bread pan. |
Fold the dough in half lengthwise. |
Seal edges of dough together with your thumbs as illustrated, or with the heel of one hand. Roll dough a quarter turn forward, so seal is on top. |
Flatten the dough again into a rectangle. |
Press a trench along the central length of the dough with the side of your hand. |
Fold again in two lengthwise and seal the edges together with the heel of your hand. Roll dough a quarter turn toward you, so seal is underneath. |
Place the dough smooth side up in the prepared pan, pressing it down snugly into the corners with your knuckles. Pan should be no more than ⅓ to ⅖ full. |
(*) You can freeze the dough at this point, wrapping pan airtight. To continue with the recipe, let thaw for several hours in the refrigerator or at room temperature.
For the final rising, set pan uncovered at a temperature of 75 to 80 degrees until dough has risen to slightly more than double, or to fill the pan by no more than ¾. It is important when you are to bake in a covered pan that you do not let the dough rise more than this, as it must have room to finish swelling and to fill the pan while it is in the oven. When dough has risen, bake at once.
(*) You can delay the rising action by setting the pan in the refrigerator, or even by weighting it down under refrigeration. In either case, the pan should be covered airtight, then set uncovered at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before baking. If dough has over-risen, bake it uncovered or deflate by pressing it down and letting it rise again to the correct height.
7) Baking, cooling, and storing—oven at 435 degrees; baking time 40 minutes
A perfectly smooth sheet of aluminum foil 1½ inches larger all around than bread pan, and greased on shiny side
A baking sheet or a pan large enough to cover entire top of bread pan
A 5-pound weight of some sort, such as a brick
A cake rack, for cooling bread after baking
Oven has been preheated to 435 degrees. Cover bread pan with aluminum foil, greased side down. Set pan on a rack in middle level of preheated oven, cover pan with baking sheet or second pan, and center the weight on top.
Bake undisturbed for 35 to 40 minutes (30 for small loaves), then slide rack to front of oven. Standing well enough aside in case bread should burst out of pan (which could occur only if you had let it over-rise before baking), see if bread is done. The bread should have shrunk slightly from sides of pan so it will unmold easily, and the crust should be lightly browned. When thumped, the loaf should make a hollow sound. If not quite done, return to pan, cover with foil and baking sheet, and bake 5 to 10 minutes more. Unmold and cool on a rack.
When thoroughly cool, in 1½ to 2 hours, wrap airtight and refrigerate. Flavor and texture improve after 12 to 24 hours, and you should probably wait 36 hours if you want very thin slices for sandwiches or Melba toast.
This bread freezes perfectly; thaw it in its wrapper either in the refrigerator or at room temperature.
Baking in an uncovered pan—the conventional loaf
If you want a loaf that swells up in the oven, bake the dough in an open pan, one that holds twice the volume of the unrisen dough, in this case a 6-cup pan. During its final rise, Step 6, let the dough come up almost to the edge of the pan. Just before baking, glaze the top of the dough by painting it with a tablespoon of milk in which you have dissolved ⅛ teaspoon of sugar. Oven temperature and timing are the same as in the preceding Master Recipe; if the top of the bread seems to be coloring too much, cover loosely with heavy brown paper or a sheet of aluminum foil.
Omitting the butter
You may omit the butter in the Master Recipe if you wish. This will give you a lighter and whiter loaf; you may prefer it this way for Melba toast.
Melba toast—to serve with consommé, foie gras, caviar
Use 2-day-old pain de mie. Cut off the crusts at the two ends. With a very sharp long knife, such as a ham slicer, cut the bread into even slices less than 1⁄16-inch thick. Arrange the slices, overlapping them by no more than a third of their length, on 1 or 2 large baking sheets and set in upper- and lower-middle levels of a 275-degree oven for about an hour, turning bread over once or twice and switching baking sheets from one rack to the other. Toast is done when bread is crisp, slightly curly, and a very pale brown. When cold and wrapped airtight, Melba toast freezes perfectly; thaw and re-crisp for a few minutes in a 350-degree oven.
Pain de Mie aux Raisins
[Raisin Bread—to serve with tea, or for toast. See also Pain Brioché aux Raisins]
For 4 cups of risen dough, filling two 5-cup covered pans or one 8-cup open pan
1 to 1½ cups (5 to 8 ounces) small currant raisins
Ingredients for pain de mie, preceding Master Recipe
To soften the raisins, soak in 1 quart of very hot water for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain, twist hard in the corner of a towel to squeeze out as much accumulated water as possible. Pat thoroughly dry in paper towels; spread out on a dry towel until you are ready to use them. Knead the raisins into the dough near the end of Step 3, when the butter has been almost absorbed. Since the weight of the raisins will hold the dough down, the first rise, Step 5, will be only to triple in the allotted time. Baking time and oven temperature are the same as for pain de mie.
Pain Brioché—Brioche Commune—Pain Louis XV
[Egg Bread—to serve with butter and jam, for fancy sandwiches such as mousse of foie gras, for toast; an alternate to brioche dough for Koulibiac, sausage in brioche, and their like]
This is a lovely light-textured yellow bread. With another egg and three times the butter it would be a true brioche. Although you will find this dough quite a bit stickier and softer to handle than pain de mie, the technique for making it is the same.
For about 1 pound of flour, making 4 cups of unrisen dough, to fill two 6-cup covered pans, two 4-cup open pans, or for 2 dozen individual rolls formed in small molds or muffin tins
1) Mixing and kneading the dough—either by hand or machine
1 package (0.6 ounce) fresh yeast or 1 package dry-active yeast
¼ cup warm water in a measure
1 Tb salt
2 Tb sugar
¼ cup tepid milk
3½ cups (about 1 lb.) all-purpose flour (measure by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and sweeping off excess)
A 4- to 5-quart mixing bowl with fairly straight rather than outward-slanting sides
4 eggs (U.S. graded “large”; if chilled, set for 5 minutes in warm water)
Sprinklings of flour as needed
1 stick (4 ounces) chilled butter
Sprinkle yeast in warm water and let liquefy completely. Then stir in the salt, sugar, and milk. Measure the flour into the mixing bowl, make a well in the center, add the eggs and the yeast mixture. Cut and mix everything together with a rubber spatula to form a dough. Turn out onto kneading surface and let dough rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Following illustrated directions for pain de mie, knead by lifting, folding, slapping, and pushing with the heel of your hand. Dough will be stickier than that for pain de mie; if it remains unusually so, knead in a tablespoon or so more flour. When dough begins to clean itself off kneading surface, start working in the butter by tablespoon bits. When butter is absorbed, let dough rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Knead again briefly until dough cleans butter off kneading surface and off your hands.
Or mix and knead the dough in a food processor, following directions for pain de mie.
Follow Steps 5, 6, and 7 in the Master Recipe for the first and second risings in a covered bowl and the final rise in the bread pan. Follow Step 8 for baking, except preheated oven should be at 400 degrees and baking time will be about 35 minutes. The surrounding crust will be a little darker than for pain de mie. Pain brioché may be eaten warm or cold, although it will slice more easily after 24 hours. It freezes perfectly.
Pain Brioché aux Raisins
[Egg Bread with Raisins]
Pain brioché makes heavenly raisin bread, eaten plain with butter, or toasted. Follow directions for pain de mie aux raisins.
Although the wonderfully buttery, light, and thoroughly delectable texture of fresh brioches may persuade you they are manna from another planet, brioche dough differs from pain de mie dough only in that eggs are used rather than milk, and a very much larger proportion of butter is incorporated. Actually, you can use equal amounts of butter and flour, but we think the proportions of 3 parts butter to 4 parts flour make a much more manageable dough with a delicious texture and taste.
In France, brioches are served for breakfast with butter and jam, or for tea, or with the coffee break. Stale brioche may be sliced and toasted, or hollowed out and used as a container for sauced foods or appetizers.
NOTE: The following recipe is for the classic hand-made brioche dough. For making it in the electric food processor, follow the general directions for pain de mie, first dissolving the yeast, then mixing it with the eggs, before blending the butter and flour in the processor with the salt and sugar. Blend in ¾ of the liquid, then add the rest by dribbles until the dough balls up on the blade. Finish kneading briefly by hand, as described at the end of Step 4.
PÂTE À BRIOCHE FINE
[Brioche Dough—for all sizes and shapes of brioches, and for Koulibiac, sausage in brioche, and their like]
You must allow a minimum 8½ hours from the time you start brioche dough to the time it is ready for the oven. Five hours are needed for the first rise, 2 for the second, half an hour for chilling, and 1 to 1½ hours for the final pre-bake rise. You may find it convenient to start the first rise in the late afternoon and complete the second one overnight in the refrigerator; you can then form and bake the brioche in the morning. However, as you will see from the delayed-action notes in the recipe, you can pretty well make it suit whatever schedule you wish.
For about ½ pound of flour, making 2⅔ cups of unrisen dough, enough to fill one 6-cup mold or nine to ten ½-cup molds
1) The preliminary dough mixture—le fraisage
3 eggs (U.S. graded “large”; if chilled, place in warm water for 5 minutes)
A 2-cup measure
A fork
Warm the eggs if chilled. Break them into the measure and blend with a fork. You should have ⅔ cup.
1 cake fresh yeast (0.6 ounce) or 1 package dry-active yeast
3 Tb warm water (not over 100 degrees) in a measure
1 tsp sugar
Mix the yeast in the warm water, add the sugar, and let yeast liquefy completely.
1¾ cups (about 8 ounces) all-purpose flour (measure by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and sweeping off excess)
A 3- to 4-quart mixing bowl
A rubber spatula
2 tsp sugar
1¼ tsp salt
A pastry scraper or stiff spatula
Measure the flour into the mixing bowl. Make a well in the center with the rubber spatula and pour in the eggs. Sprinkle on the additional sugar and the salt; scrape in the liquefied yeast mixture. Cut and stir liquids and flour together with a rubber spatula, then turn out onto kneading surface, scraping bowl clean. Dough will be very soft and sticky. Work it with scraper or stiff spatula for a moment to blend ingredients completely, then scrape to side of kneading surface and let dough rest while you prepare the butter, next step.
2) Preparing the butter 6 ounces (1½ sticks) chilled unsalted butter A rolling pin |
Smear it out with a scraper, spatula, or the heel of your hand until it is soft and malleable but still cold. Place at one corner of kneading surface until you are ready to use it, Step 4 (refrigerate in hot weather). |
This will be a very soft and sticky dough that now contains the minimum amount of flour; you will probably knead in more if dough remains too soft. Knead with one hand, keeping the other clean for emergencies.
Using scraper or spatula, start flipping the near side of the dough over onto the far side, the right side onto the left, and so forth, rapidly and vigorously a dozen times or more until dough begins to have body and elasticity. |
When dough has enough body, lift and slap it down roughly on the kneading surface repeatedly, using scraper to help you. Sprinkle on more flour by tablespoons (up to 3 or 4 in all if necessary) if dough remains too soft and sticky. |
It should be a soft dough that will stick to your fingers if you hold a pinch of it for more than 2 to 3 seconds. Knead until it has enough elasticity to draw back into shape when pushed out, probably 4 to 5 minutes, then let it rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Knead again for a moment and it is ready for the butter.
4) Kneading in the butter By 2-tablespoon bits, start folding, kneading, and smearing the butter into the dough with the heel of your hand; then gather the dough into a mass, chopping it into small pieces with your scraper and smearing again. Keep working in more bits of butter as each previous addition is partially absorbed. |
Dough will be ropy, sticky, and very messy indeed until it begins to absorb the butter. Work rapidly, especially if the kitchen is warm, and be sure you are using the heel, not the palm, of your hand. |
You may finish kneading with a scraper or spatula, which will prevent the butter from becoming too warm and turning oily. Do not hesitate to chill the dough for 20 minutes or so if this happens, and then continue.
When all the butter is absorbed, the dough will look rather fluffy. Let it rest for 2 to 3 minutes, and knead briefly again. Kneading is finished when dough draws back into shape after being pushed out.
5) First rising—pointage premier temps—5 to 6 hours at around 70 degrees
A clean 3- to 4-quart mixing bowl
A large plastic bag that bowl will fit into, or a large sheet of plastic
A bath towel
You have 2⅔ cups of dough that is to rise to almost triple in volume, or to about 7 cups. Fill bowl with 7 cups of tepid water, make a mark on the outside of the bowl to guide you, pour out water and dry the bowl. Place dough in bowl, slip into plastic bag or cover with plastic and arrange bath towel on top. Set on a wooden or plastic surface or on a towel or pillow. For best texture and flavor, dough should take 5 to 6 hours to rise to the 7-cup mark, at which point it will feel light and springy, though somewhat sticky because of the butter.
NOTE: In hot weather you will probably have to set bowl in refrigerator from time to time to prevent butter from melting and oozing out of dough.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: Set bowl in refrigerator for a short delay; for a longer one, cover with waxed paper, a plate, and a 10-lb. weight to slow or even prevent its rising.
6) Deflating—rupture With a rubber spatula or the slightly cupped fingers of one hand, dislodge dough from inside of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface, scraping bowl clean. Sprinkle surface of dough with a teaspoon or so of flour. |
With the lightly floured palms of your hands, pat and push dough out into a roughly shaped rectangle about 10 inches long. |
With the help of a scraper or spatula, flip the right side of the dough over toward the center, then flip the left side over to cover it, as though folding a business letter. Pat the dough out again into a rectangle, fold again in three, and replace the dough in the bowl. Cover again with plastic and a towel.
(*) If you want to freeze brioche dough, this is the best time to do so, but see notes on freezing.
7) Second rising—pointage deuxième temps—2 to 6 hours or more, depending on temperature
Brioche dough is usually chilled before it is formed so that it can be shaped easily; chilling may be done either during or after the second rise, whichever works out best for your cooking schedule.
room temperature method:
Let dough rise to 2 times its original volume, or to about 5½ cups, at a temperature of around 70 degrees. This should take 1½ to 2 hours. Then dislodge from bowl with a rubber spatula or the slightly cupped fingers of one hand, and refrigerate on a large plate or platter covered with waxed paper, another plate, and a weight. Dough should be ready to form in 30 to 40 minutes.
refrigerator method:
Let dough start to rise at around 70 degrees for an hour, then refrigerate. Dough will continue to rise for an hour or more until the butter congeals. If you wish to leave it overnight, cover with a plate and a weight when you refrigerate it.
Brioches are usually baked in fluted molds with slightly outward-slanting sides. However, you can use anything you have available, from a baking dish or ovenproof bowl for large brioches to pyrex cups or muffin tins for small ones.
Notes on final rise
The final rise before baking is to almost double in volume, until the dough feels light and softly springy when touched. The ideal rising temperature is around 75 degrees, and you have to watch the dough carefully on a hot day because higher temperatures melt the butter so that it oozes out of the dough. If this starts to happen, refrigerate the dough from time to time. It is difficult to predict how long the final rise will take; if the dough was thoroughly chilled before forming, it will take longer to rise. You must usually count on at least an hour, and it must really rise and soften or it will bake into a rather firm and dense brioche. Following are directions for forming and baking large, small, and ring brioches.
GROSSE BRIOCHE À TÊTE
[Large Brioche with Ball-shaped Head]
1) Forming the brioche
1 tsp soft butter
A 6-cup circular fluted mold or a cylindrical baking dish
The preceding brioche dough, chilled
Butter the interior of the mold or dish. With lightly floured hands on a lightly floured board, form ¾ of the dough into a smooth ball by kneading it lightly and rolling it between the palms of your hands. Place the ball in the bottom of the mold.
Make a funnel-shaped hole in the center of the dough 2½ inches wide at the top diameter and about 2 inches deep, using your first 3 fingers. Roll the remaining dough between the lightly floured palms of your hands to make a ball, then a tear-drop shape. Insert pointed end of tear drop into hole. |
2) Final rising—1 to 2 hours at 75 degrees
Set uncovered and free from drafts at a temperature of around 75 degrees until dough has almost doubled in volume, and feels light and softly springy when touched. Be sure your oven has been preheated to 475 degrees by the time the brioche is ready to bake.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: You can set mold in refrigerator, covering it with a bowl to prevent dough from crusting; you can cover the formed dough airtight and freeze, but see notes.
3) Glazing and clipping
1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water in a small bowl
A pastry brush
A pair of sharp-pointed scissors
Just before baking, paint surface with beaten egg, being sure not to glaze where the head joins the main body of the brioche as this could glue the two together and prevent the head from rising. In a moment, glaze with a second coat.
To help head in shaping up during baking, make 4 to 5 scissor clips in the large ball close under the head and slanting inward about half the width of the head. |
4) Baking, cooling, and storing—oven at 475 degrees, then 350; baking time: 40 to 50 minutes
Place the mold with the risen, glazed, and clipped brioche on a baking sheet in the middle or lower-middle level of the preheated 475-degree oven. In 15 to 20 minutes, when the brioche has risen and started to brown lightly, turn thermostat down to 350 degrees. Total baking time will be 40 to 50 minutes; brioche is done when it has begun to show a very faint line of shrinkage from the mold, or when a knife or straw plunged down through the center comes out clean. If, during baking, brioche seems to be browning too much, cover loosely with heavy brown paper or foil.
Cool on a rack for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Brioches may be eaten slightly warm or cool; cold brioches may be warmed for 10 to 15 minutes in a 350-degree oven.
(*) Brioches dry out and become stale almost within 12 hours of baking. To preserve their freshness, wrap airtight and freeze; large frozen brioches take about half an hour to thaw in a 350-degree oven.
VARIATIONS
Petites Brioches à Tête
[Small Individual Brioches with Ball-shaped Heads]
Choose either ½-cup, slant-sided fluted molds for small brioches, or baking cups or muffin tins. Form in the same way as large brioches, filling the molds half full and letting dough rise to almost double. Paint twice with egg glaze and clip under the heads in several places just before baking. Bake about 15 minutes at 475 degrees in middle level of oven.
Brioche en Couronne[Ring-shaped Brioche] |
The brioche dough, chilled
A baking sheet
Optional: an ovenproof bowl or cup
Knead the chilled dough into a ball and place on a lightly floured surface.
Make a hole in the center with your finger, twirling dough around your finger to enlarge the hole and inserting more fingers as the hole gets bigger.
When hole is large enough to do so, insert both hands and gently stretch dough while twirling it on floured surface. The object is to make a doughnut shape 10 to 12 inches in diameter. |
Place shaped dough on a lightly buttered baking sheet and let rest 10 minutes to relax gluten, then widen the circle a little more.
To keep center of dough from closing in during rising and baking, insert a lightly buttered ovenproof bowl or cup in hole. |
Let dough rise, uncovered, to almost double at a temperature of around 75 degrees, until dough is light and springy to the touch. Paint with a double coating of egg glaze (1 egg beaten with 1 tsp of water) just before baking.
Then clip top of dough at 1-inch intervals, making cuts about 1 inch deep, pointing scissors toward outside of ring at a 45-degree angle. |
Bake 20 to 30 minutes in the middle level of a preheated 475-degree oven until nicely puffed and browned. A knife or straw plunged into the center of one side should come out clean. If brioche browns too much during baking, cover loosely with heavy brown paper or aluminum foil.
Kougloff
[Brioche with Raisins]
Whether or not this molded ring-shaped raisin brioche originated with Viennese bakers, it is usually considered by the French to be an Alsatian raisin cake of uncertain orthography, as you will see it spelled also Kugelhopf, Kougelhof, Gougelhop, and even Gugelhupf. Bakers frequently make Kougloff out of leftover brioche dough, softening it with a little milk or additional butter as they knead in the raisins just before dropping the dough into its mold.
For a 6-cup Kougloff
Special requirements
¾ cup (4 ounces) small currant raisins
1 to 1½ tsp soft butter
A 6-cup Kougloff mold, or any fluted ring mold 3½ to 4 inches deep and about 8½ inches at rim diameter that holds 6 cups
¼ cup shaved blanched almonds (skinless almonds sliced paper thin, available in cans or plastic)
To soften raisins, soak 10 to 15 minutes in very hot water; drain, twist hard in the corner of kitchen towel to squeeze out accumulated water, and spread out on a paper towel until needed. Butter the mold heavily, then sprinkle a tablespoon of the almonds in the bottom, reserving the rest until later.
1) Softening the dough
If needed, 3 to 4 Tb milk and/or butter
So that it will mold smoothly, dough for Kougloffs must be soft and sticky. If you are making the dough specifically for a Kougloff, knead in only 4 of the 6 ounces of butter called for in Steps 2 and 4 of the Master Recipe and complete the recipe through Step 8. After the second rise, knead in the remaining 2 ounces of butter and the raisins. If you are using leftover brioche dough, soften it by kneading in milk and/or butter by half tablespoons, then knead in the raisins.
2) Filling the mold and final rise
A pastry scraper or stiff metal spatula
A rubber spatula
The remaining almonds
A tablespoon or so of flour
Gather a 2-tablespoon gob of the soft dough on the end of your scraper or metal spatula and use the rubber spatula to dislodge it and place it on the bottom of the prepared mold. Continue spreading it around the mold to make a layer. Sprinkle or press more almonds against inside of mold, and add another layer of dough; continue thus until all dough is used. Sprinkle lightly with flour and press dough gently against sides and cone of mold with floured fingers. Mold will be about ½ filled. Let rise uncovered at around 75 degrees for an hour or more, until mold is almost filled.
3) Baking—oven at 475 degrees, then at 350; 30 to 40 minutes
Bake at 475 degrees in middle or lower-middle level of preheated oven for about 15 minutes, or until dough has risen and started to color. Then lower thermostat to 350 degrees for rest of baking. Kougloff is done when it shows a faint line of shrinkage from sides of mold and when the sides are nicely browned. Serve slightly warm or cool, with butter.
The processor can work wonderfully with some doughs. The trick is to process the dry ingredients and butter first, then—with the machine running—to pour in ¾ of the liquid called for. Never stop the machine; add the rest of the liquid by dribbles until the dough masses on top of the blade and rolls around under the cover for 15 to 20 seconds, for the preliminary kneading. If dough is too damp, it will not mass; sprinkle in a little flour, which may help. If not, knead by hand. By experimenting, you will find the way that works best for you. |
Freezing brioche dough
The best time to freeze brioche dough is after the second rise, but you may also do so after it has been formed and before the final rise. However, and probably because of the high butter and egg content, its life in the freezer is not long: a week to 10 days is all we would suggest.
The most delicious of French croissants, to our mind, are those called croissants de boulanger, which are made of risen yeast-milk-and-flour dough that is flattened out, slathered with butter, folded in three, and rolled and folded again three times as though you were making French puff pastry. There are other formulas for croissants, including some which are really puff pastry or brioche dough rolled into crescent shapes. And in some of the quick methods the yeast dough has only a short single rise, resulting in a semi-puff pastry. None of these, to our mind, produces the tenderly layered, puffy, deliciously buttery croissant one dreams of. The old classic method does just this—and why go to all the trouble of making croissants otherwise?
CROISSANTS
The minimum time required for making croissants is 11 to 12 hours. Included are 3 hours and 1½ hours for the rising of the initial dough, two rest periods of 1½ to 2 hours each, and a final pre-baking rise of about an hour. Therefore, if you want freshly baked croissants for breakfast you will have to stay up all night as the bakers do. However, they will taste just as fresh if you make them ahead and freeze them either fully baked or ready to bake, as indicated in the recipe.
1) The basic dough
½ cake (0.3 ounce) fresh yeast or 1½ tsp dry-active yeast
3 Tb warm water (not over 100 degrees) in a measure
1 tsp sugar
Mix the yeast in the warm water with the sugar and let liquefy completely while measuring out the rest of the ingredients.
1¾ cups (about ½ lb. all-purpose flour measured by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and leveling off with straight-edged knife)
A 3- to 4-quart mixing bowl
2 tsp sugar
1½ tsp salt
⅔ cup milk warmed to tepid in a small saucepan
2 Tb tasteless salad oil
A rubber spatula
A pastry scraper or stiff metal spatula
Measure the flour into the mixing bowl. Dissolve the additional sugar and the salt in the tepid milk. When yeast has liquefied, pour it along with the milk mixture and oil into the flour. Blend the elements into a dough by cutting and pressing with the rubber spatula, being sure all bits of flour are gathered in. Turn dough out onto kneading surface, scraping bowl clean. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes while you wash and dry the bowl. The short rest allows flour to absorb liquid; dough will be quite soft and sticky.
Start kneading by lifting near edge, using scraper or spatula to help you, and flipping it over onto the other side. Rapidly repeat the movement from one side to the other and end over end 8 to 10 times until dough feels smooth and begins to draw back into shape when pushed out. This is all the kneading it should have; you want just enough body so dough will hold together when eventually rolled, but you do not want to over-activate the gluten and make dough difficult to handle. |
The clean 3- to 4-quart mixing bowl
A large plastic bag or sheet of plastic
A bath towel
You will have about 2 cups of dough that is to rise to 3½ times its original volume, or to 7 cups. Fill bowl with 7 cups of tepid water, make a mark on the outside at the 7-cup mark to guide you. Pour out the water, dry the bowl, and put the dough into it.
Cover with plastic and bath towel, and place at a temperature of between 70 and 72 degrees. In 3 or 4 hours dough should have risen to the 7-cup mark, and will be light and springy when touched.
Deflate by loosening dough from edges of bowl with a rubber spatula or the cupped fingers of one hand, and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. With the lightly floured palms of your hands, pat and push the dough out into a rectangle about 8 by 12 inches. Fold in three as though folding a business letter. Return dough to bowl; cover again with plastic and bath towel.
Let rise a second time, but only to double the original volume. Then loosen dough from edges of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured plate. Cover airtight and refrigerate for 20 minutes, which will make the next step easier.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: Set dough in a colder place to rise, or let it rise the second time overnight in the refrigerator. After second rise, when dough has been turned out of bowl onto plate, you may freeze it for a week.
3) Rolling in the butter; turns 1 and 2
4 to 7 ounces (1 to 1¾ sticks) chilled unsalted butter
A rolling pin (see illustrated comments)
Flour as needed
A pastry scraper
Waxed paper or plastic
A plastic bag
Butter is now to be softened and rolled in layers with the dough. If this is your first attempt, use the minimum quantity. During all the following operations, roll rapidly and keep the dough well chilled—warm, limp dough is impossible to work with!
Butter must now be worked into a smooth but still cold paste that can be spread evenly on the dough and then rolled with it. Beat butter with rolling pin to soften it. |
Then smear it out with the heel of your hand or a scraper or spatula until it is of very easy spreading consistency but still cold; it must not become soft and oily—refrigerate if necessary. |
Place chilled dough on a lightly floured pastry marble or board. With the lightly floured palms of your hands push and pat it out into a rectangle about 14 by 8 inches. |
Spread butter as evenly as possible over the upper two thirds of the dough rectangle, leaving a ¼-inch unbuttered border all around. |
Dough is now to be folded into three layers, just as though you were folding a business letter. Fold the bottom (unbuttered) third up to the middle. |
Fold the top (buttered third down to cover it, making three even layers of dough separated by 2 layers of butter. This is called Turn Number 1. |
For Turn Number 2, lightly flour the top of the dough and your rolling surface, turn the dough so the edge of the top flap is to your right, as though it were a book you were going to open. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 14 inches by 6 inches. Roll rapidly, starting an inch from the near end and going to within an inch of the far end. |
Fold again in three. You now have 7 layers of dough separated by 6 layers of butter; at the end of the fourth roll there will be 55 layers of dough.
Sprinkle dough lightly with flour, wrap in waxed paper or plastic, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Dough must now rest for 1 to 1½ hours to deactivate the gluten so that you can make the two final rolls without difficulty.
4) Turns 3 and 4—after a rest of 1½ to 2 hours in the refrigerator
Unwrap dough, sprinkle lightly with flour, and deflate by tapping lightly several times with rolling pin. Cover and let rest for 8 to 10 minutes, again to relax gluten. Being sure that the top and bottom of dough are always lightly floured, start rolling dough into a rectangle 14 by 6 inches. If you notice that butter has congealed into hard flakes, beat dough with light firm taps for a minute or so, going from one side to the other until butter has softened: it must be able to extend the length and width of the rectangle inside the dough as you roll it out. Fold rectangle in three, roll again into a rectangle, and fold in three to complete the final turn. Wrap and chill for 2 hours before forming dough into croissants, or leave overnight covered with a board and a 5-lb. weight.
5) Forming croissants—after dough has rested 2 hours in refrigerator
The dough is now ready to be rolled out into the usual rectangle and then cut into triangles that are rolled up and twisted into crescent shapes. Professionals use either the ingenious triangle-cutting roller illustrated, or do all the cutting by hand. To make everything as easy as possible for yourself, refrigerate all pieces of dough you are not actually working on.
PRELIMINARIES
A large sheet of plastic
A large, lightly buttered baking sheet (14 by 16 inches at least)
Unwrap chilled dough, place on a lightly floured surface, and deflate by tapping several times gently with rolling pin. Cover with plastic and let rest 10 minutes, to relax gluten.
TURNING TRIANGLES INTO CRESCENTS OR CROISSANTS Holding one of the triangles of dough by its large end, roll it out toward the point to make the triangle about 7 inches long. |
Then, to extend the large end slightly, stretch the 2 top angles of the triangle lightly between your thumbs and forefingers, enlarging end about an inch in all. |
Start rolling up the croissant first by folding the large end forward onto itself. Then, holding the point with the fingers of your left hand, finish the roll under the fingers and palm of your right hand. |
Bend the 2 ends down to form a crescent shape and place on a lightly buttered baking sheet, with point resting inside curve and against surface of baking sheet. Form the rest of the triangles into croissants in the same manner.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: Formed croissants may be wrapped airtight and frozen for a week, if dough was not frozen before.
Cover croissants loosely with a large sheet of plastic and set at a temperature of around 75 degrees for their final pre-baking rise. Dough should almost triple in size and feel light and springy when touched; if it does not rise and feel light, the baked croissants will be heavy and hard rather than tender, puffy, and light. In hot weather you may have to set dough in refrigerator from time to time to prevent butter from softening and oozing out.
(*) DELAYED ACTION: For a slower rise, set dough in a colder place or refrigerate; if thoroughly chilled, leave at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes before baking. Risen croissants may be frozen for a few days and baked in their frozen state.
7) Glazing, baking, and storing—oven preheated to 475 degrees
A pastry brush
1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water in a small bowl
A cake rack
Just before baking, paint the croissants with egg glaze, then set in middle level of preheated oven for 12 to 15 minutes, until croissants are nicely puffed and brown. Cool on a rack for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.
Croissants are at their best when freshly baked; even refrigerated in an airtight container, they are never as good the next day. Freezing is the best preservation: wrap airtight when croissants are thoroughly cool and freeze. To thaw and serve, set frozen croissants on a lightly buttered baking sheet and place in a preheated 400-degree oven for 5 minutes.
PASTRY DOUGHS
Pastry doughs, both tart and pie doughs and puff pastry, play an immensely important part in every phase of French cooking from little hot appetizers to quiches, and from pâtés en croûte to strawberry tarts, mille-feuilles, and Pithiviers. If pie dough has always been your culinary bugaboo, remember that no one is born a pastry chef, everyone has had to learn, and that the first big step is to make the decision that you are now, today, going to learn to make a decent pie crust. Then make pie dough every day or two for a week or more; serve everything you can think of in pastry. You will be surprised how quickly you develop the technique, and you will then be in the masterful position of having an endless number of delicious concoctions at your fingertips. All the recipes here are for at least 1 pound of flour. Our feeling is that if you are going to make dough at all you might as well make a lot, because it keeps beautifully in the freezer.
TART AND PIE DOUGHS
Pâtes Brisées—Pâtes à Croustades
DOUGH TALK
French pastry dough is flour and butter worked together and then moistened with liquid. Liquid forces the gluten molecules in the flour to join into a continuous web so that the dough will keep its shape when rolled out; the dough must have its stated amount of liquid for this effect to take place. Butter gives the pastry its flavor and texture; as always, we suggest that about ¼ of the butter proportions be given over to vegetable shortening, which has a tenderizing effect that almost all American flours seem to need.
It is in the first step, working the butter and flour together, that many people have difficulty. Trying to do everything just right, they work too slowly and carefully, lingering over each squeeze of butter and flour until their hot fingers melt the butter; thus the liquid cannot mix in properly, and the dough is a wet, oily mess that, even after chilling, bakes into a miserable piece of cardboard. An electric food processor or mixer eliminates the problems.
ELECTRIC MIXER PIE DOUGH
PÂTE BRISÉE À L’OEUF—PÂTE À CROUSTADE
[Egg Pastry Dough for Free-standing Shells and Cases, and for Turnovers]
The following dough formula is designed especially for pastry shells formed on upside-down tins, an informal and wonderfully easy way to make quiche and pie shells. Whatever your dough formula, you can use exactly the same system outlined here.
For about 1 pound of flour, enough for three 10-inch shells
1) Preliminaries
¾ cup liquid (1 “large” egg plus necessary ice water); ¼ to ⅓ cup more ice water as needed
3½ cups (1 lb.) all-purpose flour (scooped and leveled)
8 ounces (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter
3 ounces (6 Tb) chilled vegetable shortening
2 tsp salt
¼ tsp sugar
Either an electric mixer or a food processor
Prepare the liquid and extra ice water. Measure the flour into the machine. Rapidly cut the butter into 4 lengthwise strips, then into ¼-inch pieces, and add to the flour along with the chilled shortening, and the salt and sugar. Plan to work rapidly so ingredients remain chilled—if you have to stop for any reason, place everything in the refrigerator until you can continue.
(If your electric mixer comes with a flat beater, so much the better; otherwise use the whisk-whip attachment)
A pastry scraper or rubber spatula
Plastic wrap
A little flour, as needed
A plastic bag
Run the machine at moderate speed, pushing fat and flour into the blades with a rubber spatula (if you are using a home-model whisk-type mixer). The object here is to break the butter into pieces less than 1⁄16 inch in size, each piece coated with flour. Then pour ¾ cup of liquid into the flour and beat a few seconds at moderate speed, just until dough has absorbed liquid and clogs in the blades—add up to ¼ cup more ice water by dribbles if needed. Turn the massed dough out onto the plastic; sprinkle droplets of ice water on any unmassed bits in the bowl, and press together as you add them to the rest of the dough. With lightly floured hands, press the dough into a roughly shaped cushion, wrap in plastic, and chill in the plastic bag. Proceed to Step 3.
2b) Making the dough in an electric food processor
A pastry scraper or rubber spatula
Plastic wrap
A plastic bag
(If you have a small—under 2-quart—container, divide ingredients in half and make the dough in 2 batches.) Flick the machine on and off 4 to 5 times to blend dry ingredients and butter. Turn the machine on and pour in the ¾ cup of liquid. Flick the machine on and off several times and the dough should begin to mass on the blade. If not, dribble in a little more water and repeat, repeating again if necessary. Dough is done when it has begun to mass; do not overmix it. Scrape the dough out onto your work surface, and with the heel of your hand smear it out by 2-tablespoon bits—making a 6-inch sweep (this is the final blending). Gather it into a rough cushion shape, wrap in plastic, and chill in a plastic bag. Proceed to Step 3.
3) Chilling the dough before forming—about 2 hours
Once dough has been mixed, it must be well rested and chilled before you roll it out. The rest relaxes the gluten in the flour, so the dough will roll easily; chilling firms the butter, giving the dough enough body for rolling. In all of the following procedures, keep the dough chilled—it is impossible to work with otherwise; refrigerate it even in the midst of rolling.
(*) Dough may remain in refrigerator several days, or may be frozen for several months.
UPSIDE-DOWN PASTRY SHELLS AND CASES
The classic free-standing French pastry shell is formed by rolling out the dough and pressing it inside a flan ring or mold. The dough is then braced in place with another mold or with buttered foil and dried beans so that it will not collapse during baking. This method is illustrated in Volume I, pages 141–6, and produces the most professional result.
A more informal and simpler method is to bake the shell on an upside-down cake pan, or on any upside-down fireproof object whose shape appeals to you, such as a pie tin, bread pan, ring mold, saucepan, baking dish, or even muffin tin. For this type of shell you must have a pastry that is light and buttery but will hold its shape when molded and baked upside down. The preceding egg pastry dough was designed especially for upside-down shells.
UPSIDE-DOWN PASTRY SHELLS
For a 10- by 1-inch round shell, or any shell formed on any 6- to 8-cup mold
1) Forming shells
1 tsp soft butter
The mold: a round cake pan or baking dish 9 to 10 inches bottom diameter
½ the preceding egg pastry dough, chilled
Butter the outside of the mold and set upside down. Rapidly roll out the dough into a circle ⅛ inch thick and at least 2½ to 3 inches wider in diameter than your mold. (Illustrated directions for rolling dough are on pages 141–4 in Volume I.)
Roll dough up on pin and unroll over upturned bottom of mold, then run pin lightly over dough to smooth it in place. With lightly floured fingers, press dough snugly against sides of mold, being very careful not to pull or stretch dough; it must retain its uniform thickness of ⅛ inch. |
Even off the edges around the sides of the mold with a ravioli wheel or knife, making shell about 1 inch deep. |
To prevent shell from puffing out of shape during baking, prick all over at ⅛-inch intervals with a table fork. |
To even the sides all around press flat of fork against pastry, being careful not to reduce thickness. In case any section of sides seems too thin, paint lightly with cold water and patch with raw dough. |
So that dough will bake properly and not draw up or out of shape, it should now be refrigerated for at least an hour before it goes into the oven; this relaxes the gluten in the flour. Press raw leftover dough into a ball, wrap and refrigerate; you may need a little later on, after baking.
(*) Shell may be frozen at this point. Set as is in freezer for an hour or so until hardened, then wrap airtight. Bake shell while still frozen.
2) Baking shells—after a rest of 1 hour
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. You will need to weight down the top of the dough after it has baked for 4 to 5 minutes, otherwise the top will puff and draw the sides up: choose a saucepan or baking dish weighing about 2 pounds, or a pie plate filled with dried beans, and butter the bottom of the pan, dish, or plate.
Place chilled dough-covered mold, still upside down, on a baking sheet and set in middle level of oven. In 4 to 5 minutes, place the buttered weight on top, remove 2 to 3 minutes before shell is done.
A partially baked shell, the type used for quiches and oven-baked tarts and pies, needs 6 to 10 minutes in all depending on the thickness of the dough. It is sufficiently baked when it has started to color and can be raised gently from the mold. Fully baked shells usually need 10 to 15 minutes in all, until the shell is nicely browned and crisp. When done, remove from oven and let cool on mold for 8 to 10 minutes, then, being very careful not to crack shell, unmold on a rack.
First aid for cracked shells
If a partially baked shell develops a small split or crack, paint the area with beaten egg and patch with raw dough just before filling and baking. If sides seem thin or weak, you may paint with beaten egg and patch or strengthen them with a strip of raw dough, or you may fill the shell by no more than ⅓ so sides will not be under any strain during baking.
Freezing and leftovers
Baked shells may be wrapped airtight and frozen; it is wise to put them in a protective container of some sort. Leftover dough may be frozen and used again or combined with more of the same dough when you make another batch.
REFERENCE CHART FOR PASTRY DOUGH FORMULAS
Flour: Measure by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and sweeping off excess with straight edge of knife. Sift only after measuring.
Butter: Regular unsalted butter (not whipped butter) usually has a firmer texture and less water content than salted butter; we recommend it.
Liquid: Always start with the minimum amount of liquid called for, and add more by droplets as needed. The warmer and softer the butter, the less water the mixture will absorb. Hand-made dough, therefore, absorbs less liquid than machine-made.
FRENCH PUFF PASTRY
Pâte Feuilletée
French puff pastry, pâte feuilletée, is literally what the French title implies: hundreds of leaves or layers of dough separated by hundreds of layers of butter. A piece half an inch thick puffs up 4 to 5 inches in the oven and is unbelievably light and tender to bite into. With almost as many uses as it has layers, puff pastry is the dough for vol-au-vent and Napoleons, for coqs en pâte, gigots en croûte, and all kinds of turnovers, tarts, pie toppings, first-course pastries, and luxurious cocktail tidbits. It dresses up the simplest store-bought cheese mixture, can add the final flourish to the grandest platter, and since it freezes perfectly for several months, puff pastry is tremendously useful to have available on those occasions when you need something fast to assemble that looks impressive.
If you enjoy working with your hands you will find it is the most fascinating of doughs to make, and if you want to acquire a facility in pastry, pâte feuilletée will teach you all the tricks. It most definitely takes practice to perfect, but when you have mastered puff pastry you will find it such a satisfying and splendid accomplishment you will bless yourself for every moment you spent learning its techniques.
THE TWO KINDS OF PUFF PASTRY
The classical, best-quality puff pastry, pâte feuilletée fine, contains equal parts of butter and flour, is made in a rigidly traditional manner, and you must count on 6 to 7 hours from the time you start it to the time you can form and bake it. This is what you use for vol-au-vent, patty shells, and fine desserts such as that most wonderful of almond tarts called the Pithiviers. However, it is not at all necessary to be so grand for cocktail appetizers, cheese-filled cases, leg of lamb baked in a crust, Beef Wellington, and a host of other delicious items. For these, and in fact for most of your puff pastry needs, simple puff pastry, demi-feuilletée, is very good indeed and can be made in half the time. Because it is so much easier to make, we suggest that you start your career on demi-feuilletée, and when you get around to the classic method it will then seem like only a variation on a familiar theme.
EQUIPMENT
Although you can mix pastry on a wooden table and roll it out with a broom handle, you will find it easier to make when you have a pastry marble and a good rolling pin. This is particularly true for puff pastry.
A pastry marble
The smooth, cool surface of marble is ideal to roll dough upon and scrapes clean easily while you work. A piece that can slide in and out of your refrigerator will be a miraculous help to pastry making in hot weather. You can usually find ready-cut polished marble in furniture stores; you can sometimes pick up an old marble table- or bureau-top in a junk shop; or look up marble suppliers in the telephone directory. The minimum size to consider is ¾ inch thick and the size of your refrigerator shelf, which is around 14 by 28 inches for the standard home-size model.
Rolling pins
You should have a heavy pin with a rolling surface at least 14 inches long; 16 to 18 inches is preferable. You will probably have to try a restaurant supply house to find a decent pin, because a broom handle is certainly far more efficient than the ridiculous toy (A) that passes for a rolling pin in many household supply departments. The French pastry chef’s pin (B) is of polished boxwood, 18 inches long and 2 inches in diameter; stores selling Italian cooking equipment often have a similar model of lighter wood.
The French Tutove pin (C) is sometimes available in import stores; its cannellated surface is designed especially for distributing the butter evenly throughout the dough when you roll puff pastry or croissants. The American-made pastry-chef’s pin (D) is of polished hardwood and has ball-bearing handles; this fine, heavy pin is usually available only in restaurant supply houses.
FLOUR NOTE
The following recipes call for a mixture of all-purpose and cake flour, a combination always available and one that is used by many pastry chefs in this country. The nearest American approximation of French household pastry flour, “type 55,” that we have discovered is a mixture of ⅔ unbleached pastry flour (not to be confused with cake flour) and ⅓ unbleached all-purpose flour. This combination has a lower gluten strength than the all-purpose and cake mixture, and it is easier and faster to handle because it needs shorter rest periods. However, unbleached flours, and especially unbleached pastry flour, are not to be found in most retail markets. Actually the cake and all-purpose combination, though slower to work with than either French flour or its American approximation, produces the lightest and puffiest pastry. (You may substitute French household flour or the ⅓–⅔ pastry flour and all-purpose flour combination in the following recipe.)
KEEPING COOL AND RELAXED
You will have very little trouble with puff pastry when you remember that you must keep the dough cold and that you must let it have the rest periods it needs.
Because of its high butter content, puff-pastry dough begins to soften as soon as you remove it from the refrigerator, just as butter softens. When you leave it too long at room temperature it becomes limp, sticky, and utterly impossible to work with until you refrigerate it again. Thus, if at any point your dough becomes limp and soft, stop where you are, refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes, then continue. Do the same if the dough retracts after rolling, or if it turns rubbery and refuses to extend itself; this means that the gluten in the dough is over-activated from having been rolled out, and the way to calm it down is to stop rolling and let the dough relax in the refrigerator for an hour or two. Most of the troubles most people have with puff pastry spring from unchilled dough and over-activated gluten.
PÂTE DEMI-FEUILLETÉE
[Simple Puff Pastry—Flaky Pastry—Mock Puff Pastry]
For the many recipes like turnovers, toppings for meat pies, meats baked in a crust, appetizers, and so forth where you want a flaky, light dough, demi-feuilletée can be ready for baking in 3 to 4 hours. The pastry consists of an initial dough made of flour, water, salt, and a little oil, which acts as a tenderizer; this is pushed out into a 16-inch rectangle that is spread with softened butter. Then the rectangle is folded into 3, making a sandwich that has 3 dough layers and 2 butter layers. Rolled out and folded again 3 more times, as sketched in the recipe, the layers build up in geometric progression to make 72 layers of butter after the fourth fold. When the pastry finally goes into the oven, each of the many layers of dough puffs up between the layers of butter and the pastry bakes into a light, airy delight to both eye and tongue.
For about 1 pound of flour, making 2½ pounds of dough, enough for 2 of the 6- by 16-inch covered entrée pastries, or about 3 dozen of the cornets, or horns
1) La détrempe—the dough mixture
2¾ cups all-purpose flour and ¾ cup plain bleached cake flour, measured by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and leveling off with straight-edged knife
A 3- to 4-quart mixing bowl
A rubber spatula
A ½-cup measure to reserve flour for Step 2
¼ cup tasteless salad oil
2 tsp salt
1 cup iced water, plus a tablespoon or so more if needed
A 2-foot sheet of waxed paper
A plastic bag
Blend the 2 flours together in the mixing bowl with the rubber spatula. Remove ½ cup and reserve for Step 2.
Stir the oil into the flour and mix thoroughly with rubber spatula—you could use an electric mixer for this, but it hardly seems worthwhile. Then stir in the salt and the water, cutting and pressing ingredients firmly into a mass with spatula and then with the cupped fingers of one hand. Lift massed parts of dough out of bowl and place on pastry marble or board. Sprinkle unmassed bits of flour with drops of water in bowl; press together and add to dough.
Press dough firmly and rapidly into a cushion shape. Do not try to make a smooth surface; it will smooth out later. Consistency should be pliable, though not at all damp or sticky. |
If you are in a terrible rush you can complete the next 2 steps now, but the dough will be easier to handle if you sprinkle it lightly with flour, wrap in waxed paper, slip it into a plastic bag, and refrigerate it for 40 minutes to an hour. |
12 ounces (3 sticks) chilled unsalted butter A pastry scraper or stiff broad spatula The ½ cup flour reserved from Step 1 |
When you are ready to roll out the dough, beat the butter with a rolling pin to soften it. |
Smear out with scraper or the heel, not the palm, of your hand. When partially softened, work in the flour and continue until butter is perfectly smooth and of easy spreading consistency but still cold. If butter is not supple enough, you cannot spread it over the dough; if it is too soft it will ooze out as the dough is rolled. Chill briefly if you have softened it too much. |
Lightly flour the dough and your hands. Push and pat the dough out, in front of you, into a rectangle 16 to 18 inches long and about 8 inches wide. Dough is being pushed rather than rolled so that you will activate the gluten as little as possible for this first operation. (Dough will be very soft and sticky if you have not chilled it.) |
Using a scraper or stiff spatula, spread the softened butter over the upper two thirds of the dough leaving a ⅛-inch unbuttered border all around. The lower third is unbuttered. |
Fold the dough into three as follows: fold the bottom (unbuttered) third up to the middle. |
Fold the top (buttered) third down to cover it, just as though you were folding a business letter. You have made 2 layers of butter and 3 of dough. |
Rotate the dough a quarter turn counter-clockwise so the top flap of dough is to your right, as though it were a book you were about to open. Dough will still look rather rough and the spotty damp patches are oil; all will smooth out by the final turn. |
3) Turn 2—the four-layer fold—2me tour
In the second turn, you will roll out the dough and fold it so that it makes 4 layers. During the roll, be sure top and bottom of dough are always lightly floured and that your rolling surface is always scraped clean, to prevent dough from sticking; lift dough and slide it about between rolls to make sure.
Starting about an inch in from the near edge of the dough, roll your pin rapidly to within an inch of the far end, extending the dough as you roll. The rolling movement is a firm, even push away from you at a 45-degree angle. You are aiming for as even a rectangle of dough as possible; after several rolls you wish it to be 16 to 18 inches long and about 8 inches wide. |
Even the sides of the rectangle with the side of your pin when necessary and occasionally roll across the rectangle to widen it. Sprinkle any breaks in the dough with flour. (If you did not chill the initial dough it will look messy and soft at this point; do not worry.)
Fold the top and the bottom edges of the rectangle so that they meet at the center of the dough. |
Fold them together again, as though you were closing a book. Now you have completed the second turn, and have 8 layers of butter sandwiched in between 9 layers of dough. |
So that you will remember that you have now made 2 turns—you may decide to freeze the dough at this point—press 2 depressions in the top of the dough with the ball-ends, not the nails, of your fingers. |
Wrap the dough in waxed paper, slip it into a plastic bag and refrigerate for 40 to 60 minutes (or overnight if you wish) until dough is much firmer and the gluten has relaxed; it will then be easy to roll out for the final 2 turns.
4) Finishing the dough: turns 3 and 4—after a 40- to 60-minute rest
Unwrap the chilled dough and flour it sparingly top and bottom. If it is cold and hard, beat it evenly and firmly but not too heavily with your rolling pin to start it moving: beat crosswise and lengthwise, and keep the even rectangular shape. |
Then roll dough rapidly out into a rectangle 16 to 18 inches long. (Again, if dough is very cold and you have not beaten it sufficiently to soften the butter, the sides may split when you roll out the dough. Do not worry if this happens; remember to beat it a little longer the next time.) Fold rectangle of dough into three, again as though folding a business letter and as diagramed in Turn 1. Rotate dough so top flap is to your right, book-opening fashion; roll again into a rectangle and fold into three. You now have completed the fourth turn, and have 72 layers of butter. With the ball-ends of your fingers, make 4 depression marks in the surface of the dough. Wrap and chill for at least 2 hours to firm the butter and to relax the gluten. It is then ready for forming and baking in any way your recipe directs. (You may, of course, give the dough 2 more turns after it has chilled, tripling the layer count twice again to a total of 648; this is called for only rarely, however.)
Storage, ahead-of-time notes, and freezing
You may wrap and store puff pastry dough in the refrigerator at any step during its manufacture; however, remember that if you have not completed 4 turns the butter will be distributed in rather thick layers. Thus if the pastry is very cold, the congealed butter will break into lumps and flakes unless you give it a careful and thorough beating with your rolling pin before you attempt to roll it out. Puff-pastry dough may be frozen for as much as a year, when wrapped airtight and kept at zero degrees or less; thaw at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.
Forming and baking the dough—after a rest of 2 hours
A complete listing of recipes using puff pastry is in the index.
Use of leftover dough
VARIATION
Pâte Feuilletée Fine
[Classic French Puff Pastry—for vol-au-vent, patty shells, fine desserts, and petits fours]
Classic French puff pastry has equal amounts of butter and flour, 6 rollings out and foldings, and develops 729 layers of butter sandwiched between 730 layers of dough. You may use it for any recipe requiring puff pastry, but its particular role lies in the realm of the patty shell, the fine dessert, and the elegant tea pastry. As you will see, the dough mixture contains butter rather than oil, and is made like pie dough; rather than being spread on, the main part of the butter is enclosed in the dough. Otherwise the technique for classic puff pastry does not differ too much from simple puff pastry. You must allow, however, a minimum of 6 to 7 hours from the time you start it to the time you can form and bake it. As usual, most of this time is taken up with rest periods; the actual work involved is probably not more than 30 minutes, and this can be spread over a period of several days.
For about 1 pound of flour, making 2½ pounds of dough, enough for one 8-inch vol-au-vent 5 inches high or 8 to 10 patty shells, plus leftovers which will make a 6- by 16-inch covered pastry, or 2 dozen of the cheese appetizers
2¾ cups all-purpose flour and ¾ cup plain bleached cake flour, measured by scooping dry-measure cups into flour and leveling off with a straight-edged knife A 4-quart mixing bowl, or the large bowl of an electric mixer A rubber spatula A ½-cup dry-measure cup (to reserve flour for Step 2) 3 ounces (¾ stick) chilled unsalted butter A 2-foot length of waxed paper |
Measure the 2 flours into the mixing bowl and stir thoroughly with rubber spatula to blend. Scoop out ½ cup and reserve for Step 2. Place chilled butter on waxed paper and cut into quarters lengthwise; rapidly cut quarters into ¼-inch pieces and add to the flour in the bowl. The butter is now to be cut into the flour and the liquid then added, just as though you were making pie dough. You may use an electric mixer as described in the pâte brisée recipe, |
or rub the flour and butter rapidly together between the tips of your fingers until the butter is the size of small oatmeal flakes, or chop with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse meal. OR make the entire détrempe in the food processor, including next step. |
2 tsp salt
1⅛ cups iced water in a 2-cup measure, plus a few droplets more if needed
A plastic bag
Blend the salt into the iced water and pour into the flour and butter mixture. If you are using an electric mixer, mix for just a few seconds, stopping the machine as soon as dough clogs in the blades. Otherwise blend with a rubber spatula, pressing dough firmly into a mass with spatula and then with cupped fingers of one hand. Lift massed dough out onto marble or board; sprinkle unmassed bits in bowl with droplets of water, press together and add to main body of dough.
Press dough firmly and rapidly into a rough cushion shape; consistency should be pliable, though not at all damp and sticky. Sprinkle lightly with flour, wrap in waxed paper, and slide into a plastic bag. Refrigerate for 40 minutes to relax gluten and firm the dough.
12 ounces (3 sticks) chilled unsalted butter
The ½ cup flour reserved from Step 1
A pastry scraper or stiff metal spatula
Beat the butter with a rolling pin to soften it, smear it out with the heel, not the palm, of your hand, or a pastry scraper or spatula. When partially softened, work in the flour. Butter must be absolutely smooth and supple, yet still cold. Form into a 5-inch square, place at the corner of your working surface, and proceed to the next step.
3) The dough package
Roll the chilled dough into a circle 12 to 13 inches in diameter; it will still look rough. Place the butter in the center. |
Bring the edges of the dough over the butter to enclose it completely, being very careful not to stretch dough because you want it to have a uniform thickness at the sides of the square. |
Press dough well together on top of package and seal edges with your fingers. Dough will still look rough and uneven, which is as it should be. |
4) Turns 1 and 2
You now have a package with a layer of dough on the top and the bottom, and a layer of butter in between. Your object is to roll the package out into a rectangle, extending the butter the whole length and width of the rectangle between the 2 layers of dough: beat the package lightly but firmly its length and width with your rolling pin to get the butter moving, dust flour on the bottom and top of the dough, and rapidly roll it out into a rectangle 16 inches long and 8 inches wide. It is now to be folded in three, as though folding a business letter.
Fold the bottom third up over the center of the dough. |
Fold the top third down to cover it, making 3 even layers. By folding the dough in 3, you have made 3 layers of butter but only 4 of dough, because the middle layers, which touch, join to form a single layer. |
Place dough in front of you so that top flap is to your right, as though it were a book. |
Roll again into a 16-inch rectangle and again fold in three, making 9 layers of butter. Press 2 depressions in the top of the dough with the ball-ends, not the nails, of your fingers so that you will remember you have made 2 turns. |
Wrap dough in waxed paper and slip it into a plastic bag. Refrigerate for 40 to 60 minutes to relax the gluten and to firm butter for next turns, which it is best to complete within an hour if you can so that layers of butter do not become too firm and congealed.
5) Turns 3 and 4—after a rest of 40 to 60 minutes
If dough is hard and cold, beat with firm even strokes to soften butter. Complete Turns 3 and 4 in the same way as the previous turns. You may find during the rolling out that the bottom layer of dough does not stretch out to meet the top and middle layers at each end: turn dough over and roll upside down to even the layers. Make 4 depression marks in the dough to indicate the 4 turns; wrap and chill again for at least an hour before starting Turns 5 and 6.
(*) DELAYED-ACTION NOTE: This is the best point to refrigerate the dough for several days, or to freeze it for several months.
6) Turns 5 and 6—after a rest of at least 1 hour, and 2 hours before you wish to form and bake the dough
Complete Turns 5 and 6 in the same manner. (It is here that if you have given the dough only its minimum rest period you may find it hard to roll out and inclined to retract rather severely when extended. If this happens, stop immediately; forcing it will only make the gluten more tenacious and the dough more balky. Wrap and refrigerate the dough for an hour more before continuing.) Make 3 pairs of depression marks in the top of the dough to indicate the 6 turns. Wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours before forming and baking.
(*) DELAYED-ACTION NOTES: When you are making the dough for a vol-au-vent, you will usually get the highest rise when you form and bake the dough about 2 hours after the final turn. For all other purposes, dough may be refrigerated for several days, or frozen for several months.
Except for the vol-au-vent and patty shells, which follow here, all other recipes using puff pastry will be found in their appropriate chapters, and there is a complete listing of recipes under puff pastry in the index.
Use of leftover dough
Patty Shells
Bouchées et Vol-au-Vent
That beautifully sauced combination of sweetbreads, quenelles, truffles, mushrooms, and olives known as ris de veau financière has nowhere else to go but into a patty shell so light and airy it can fly with the wind, as the French title, vol-au-vent, suggests. Our litany ever seems to be “your own are so much better,” and how true it is when your own puff pastry makes shells so light, buttery, and flaky you can hardly believe they are real even while the pastry is melting in your mouth. Whether you wish to serve individual shells or one dramatic large one for the whole table, small and large shells are constructed in similar fashion.
You are aiming for a hollow cylinder of pastry. To achieve it, you make 2 layers: a ring of dough that is set on a disk of dough. The ring forms the sides of the cylinder, and the disk, its bottom. Both ring and disk puff up in the oven, and when the pastry is done, you cut an opening in the top, as you will see, fork out the small amount of uncooked pastry inside, and you have a case ready for filling with creamed lobster, shrimp, mushrooms, or whatever delectable mixture you may have concocted. We shall start with individual pastry shells.
DOUGH TALK
Both large and small shells require an extravagant amount of dough, and you will have as much left over as you have in the shells. However, the leftover dough is converted into puff pastry again as described and illustrated at the end of this section.
BOUCHÉES
[Patty Shells for Individual Servings]
For 9 shells 3½ inches in diameter
1) Forming the dough
The preceding recipe for 2½ lbs. chilled classic puff pastry
A pastry-cutting wheel or long knife
A 3½-inch plain, round cutter
A 2-inch plain, round cutter
A large baking sheet 12 by 16 inches at least
1 or 2 trays or baking sheets in the refrigerator for storing pieces of dough
A sharp, thin skewer (or large darning needle)
Because puff pastry softens so quickly out of the refrigerator, you will find it best to work on only part of the dough at a time, keeping the rest chilled. Each piece will make 3 patty shells. Roll the dough into a rectangle 18 inches long and 8 inches wide, cut into thirds crosswise using pastry wheel or long knife, and refrigerate 2 of the pieces of dough. Roll the remaining piece of dough into a 10- by 14-inch rectangle ¼ inch thick. Work rapidly from now on so that dough will not soften before you are through; if it does, stop immediately, refrigerate everything for 15 to 20 minutes and then continue. Soft, limp dough is impossible to work with.
With the 3½-inch round cutter, cut 6 disks in the pastry, spacing them half an inch from the edges of the pastry and from each other. With the 2-inch cutter, cut circles from the center of three of the disks to make 3 rings. (Carefully arrange all leftover dough in one layer and refrigerate; see instructions.) |
Rinse pastry sheet in cold water, shake off excess water, and place the 3 disks upside down on the sheet, spacing them ½ inch from edge of sheet and from each other. Paint tops of disks lightly with cold water and press a ring of dough on each disk. |
Seal each ring to each disk by making slanting indentations ⅛ inch apart with the back of a knife, going all around the circumference, and pressing the 2 layers of dough together with the balls of your fingers as you go. |
Prick all over exposed center of bottom disks with the tines of a table fork. Plunge a skewer down through the pastry at 3 points in the center of the pastry and 4 around the ring; this, hopefully, will ensure a vertical, even rise in the oven. |
With a 2-inch round cutter or a knife, press a circle outline 1⁄16 inch deep in each disk, where the inside edge of the ring meets it; this will then be cut out after baking and serve as a cover. |
Pastry will probably have softened; refrigerate baking sheet for 10 minutes, or at least while you are rolling out and cutting the next 2 pieces of dough. When all 9 bouchées are assembled on the sheet, cover with waxed paper and refrigerate for at least 40 minutes before baking, so that dough can relax and bouchées will not shrink or bake out of shape.
(*) DELAYED-ACTION NOTE: The formed pastry may be frozen at this point, and taken right from freezer to oven.
Just before baking, paint top surfaces of bouchées, not the sides, with a double coating of egg glaze (1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water), and decorate with cross-hatch knife or fork marks. (See vol-au-vent, step 2.) Bake in the middle level of preheated oven about 25 minutes. They are done when risen and brown, and when the sides are brown and crisp. Remove to a rack.
With a sharp small knife held vertically, cut out covers with an up-and-down sawing motion. Delicately scrape out any uncooked pastry from inside with the back of a teaspoon or the tines of a small table fork. Cool on a rack. |
3) Storing and serving
The sooner you can fill and serve patty shells, the fresher, lighter, and more delicious they will be. If you are serving the same day, keep in a warming oven or the turned-off oven. Otherwise arrange in a covered pan and freeze them. To reheat and crisp shells, either frozen or not, preheat oven to 425 degrees, place shells on a lightly buttered baking sheet and set in middle level of oven. Turn oven off and shells will be crisp in 5 to 8 minutes.
VOL-AU-VENT
[Large Patty Shell]
A large patty shell is somewhat reminiscent of the oldtime haute cuisine; it is wonderfully dramatic to serve and always greatly enjoyed by your guests just because it is an unusual treat. The decorative cover, which is formed and baked separately, is optional and depends on how your table serving works out. If you have a cover, the filled vol-au-vent with cover poised on top of the food is presented for all to admire, then the cover must be removed to a separate dish for cutting and serving.
For an 8-inch shell about 5 inches deep, serving 6 people
1) Forming the dough
The preceding recipe for 2½ lbs. classic puff pastry
An 8-inch and a 5-inch round vol-au-vent cutter, pan cover, plate, or saucer for cutting circles of dough
A heavy rolling pin with rolling surface at least 14 inches long
A baking sheet or round pizza tray rinsed in cold water and not dried
1 or 2 baking sheets or trays in the refrigerator for leftover dough
Place chilled puff pastry on a lightly floured marble or pastry board and roll rapidly into a rectangle ⅜ inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 20 inches long. (To insure that stresses and strains are equalized for even baking, be sure to roll dough crosswise as well as lengthwise.)
Work as rapidly as possible from now on so that dough will not soften and become difficult to handle; if it does soften, immediately stop whatever you are doing and refrigerate everything for 15 to 20 minutes, then continue.
Cut two 8-inch disks out of pastry, spacing them at least ½ inch from edges of dough and from each other. Lift surrounding dough off the disks and arrange in one layer on baking sheet or tray and refrigerate; see directions for re-forming it into puff pastry.
Roll one of the disks up on the pin and unroll upside down on damp baking sheet. (Damp surface makes pastry stick to sheet, giving it a grip so it can rise in the oven.) Paint a 1½-inch border around the top of the circle with cold water. |
Using a round cutter or guide 5 inches in diameter, center it in the second disk of dough and cut around it to make the 8-inch ring for the second layer of the vol-au-vent. |
So that you will not stretch the ring of dough as you remove it from the circle, brush lightly with flour and fold it in half, then in quarters. Unfold it on the dampened circumference of the first disk, pressing it in place with the balls of your fingers. (Refrigerate disk of leftover dough.) |
Seal the 2 layers of dough with the back of a small knife, by pressing slanting lines ⅛ inch deep and about ¾ inch apart all around the circumference, also pressing top of circle with the balls of your fingers as you go. (It is now wise to cover and refrigerate vol-au-vent for an hour before baking; this will relax dough so that it will bake evenly.) |
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Unbaked vol-au-vent may be refrigerated for a day or so, or frozen, but you will usually get a higher rise if you bake it within an hour of forming.
2) Final decoration and baking—about 1 hour; oven preheated to 425 degrees
Egg glaze (1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water in a bowl or cup)
A pastry brush
A small knife
A thin, sharp skewer or large darning needle
When oven has been preheated, paint top of ring and exposed top of disk with egg glaze. (Do not paint sides, because egg could prevent them from rising.)
With a small knife, cut lines ⅛ inch deep and 1½ inches apart (at outside edge) in top of ring, pointing knife always to center of vol-au-vent so the marks will be evenly spaced, like the spokes of a wheel. |
Cut a line ¼ inch deep in the bottom disk, where inner edge of circle meets it; this marks the cover, which is removed after baking so that interior of vol-au-vent may be cleaned out. |
Make decorative, shallow cross-hatch marks in the top of the dough through the glaze with the point of a knife or the tines of a table fork. |
Finally, plunge skewer or needle down through the top of the pastry sheet at 4 to 5 places around the circumference and 3 places in the center. The purpose of this operation is presumably to hold the puff pastry layers in place and help the vol-au-vent rise evenly. |
Immediately place vol-au-vent in lower middle level of preheated oven and bake at 425 degrees for about 20 minutes, until the pastry has tripled in height and is beginning to brown. Lower thermostat to 350 degrees and bake 30 to 40 minutes longer, until sides are brown and crisp. If pastry is coloring too much, lay a sheet of aluminum foil or heavy brown paper loosely over the top.
3) Final touches
As soon as you remove the vol-au-vent from the oven and while it is still hot, cut around the inside edge of the ring to remove the cover you marked in the bottom disk; this has now risen, along with the rest of the dough. (Cover will probably break and should be eaten by the cook, who must sample the pastry anyway.)
Being very careful not to pierce sides or bottom of crust, scrape uncooked pastry out of vol-au-vent with the tines of a table fork or the handle of a spoon. (You may turn this into a cheese ramequin, but you should use it while still fresh; see following recipe.)
Set vol-au-vent again on its pastry sheet and put in the oven for 5 minutes, to dry out, then let cool on a rack. If bottom of pastry burned or darkened unduly during baking, shave off the discolored part with a sharp knife.
Storing and reheating
If you have a warming oven, set it at around 100 degrees where pastry will keep for a day or two, drying and crisping to a delicious texture. Otherwise, the sooner you can eat the vol-au-vent the better, unless you are going to wrap it airtight and freeze, where it will keep for several weeks. To reheat cold or frozen vol-au-vent, set on a lightly buttered pastry sheet in a preheated 425-degree oven for 5 minutes, then turn oven off and leave a few minutes more, until crisp.
FOR THE UNCOOKED INSIDES OF THE VOL-AU-VENT
Ramequin du Juste Milieu
[A Hot Puffed Cheese Dish to Serve as an Entrée or in Place of Potatoes]
For 4 to 6 servings
The fresh, preferably still warm uncooked insides of a vol-au-vent (usually ⅓ to ½ cup, pressed)
1 cup milk
2 eggs
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
A 3- to 4-cup baking and serving dish about 1½ inches deep, lightly buttered
Purée the uncooked pastry and milk for a minute or so in an electric blender until perfectly smooth. Add eggs, seasonings, and cheese and purée 5 seconds. Pour into buttered dish.
(*) DELAYED-ACTION NOTE: May now be covered and refrigerated until the next day.
Half an hour before serving, bake in the middle level of a preheated 375-degree oven until nicely puffed and browned. Serve immediately.
MAKING A VOL-AU-VENT COVER
When you want a cover for the vol-au-vent, form it separately, and bake the 2 together on the same pastry sheet.
Use the circle of leftover dough you cut from the second disk of pastry that made the vol-au-vent ring. After it has rested in the refrigerator while you were making the vol-au-vent itself, roll it out into a disk about 9½ inches in diameter; loosen it from the rolling surface to let it shrink if it will. Roll it up on your pin and unroll upside down on a lightly buttered pastry sheet. Then trim it into a neat circle using an 8½-inch cutter or plate as a guide.
Place a slightly smaller cutter, cover, or other round object on top and draw the back of a knife from edge of pastry to edge of cutter at ¾-inch intervals all around to make a scalloped edging. |
To discourage dough from rising more than a little in the oven, prick all over (except on scalloped edges) at ⅛-inch intervals with the tines of a table fork, going right down through the pastry to the pastry sheet. Cover and chill the dough for about an hour, so that gluten will relax and dough will bake evenly without shrinking. |
Using scraps of dough left over from the vol-au-vent, make decorative cutouts ⅛-inch thick and of any shape and design you wish. After painting top of dough with egg glaze, affix the designs and paint them also. Then make shallow, all-over cross-hatch marks through the glaze and into the dough with a small knife or the tines of a fork. |
The design illustrated is a very simple one of circular cutouts, which puff up in an amusing manner; you may use ovals, leaves, strips of dough, or anything you wish, but remember that everything rises, and if you cut your shapes too thick and narrow, they may topple off in the oven.
Baking
Whether baked separately or along with the vol-au-vent, put the cover in a preheated 425-degree oven for about 20 minutes, until nicely browned, then turn thermostat down to 350. Pastry is done when it feels crisp and light, which should be 30 minutes or so in all. Let cool on a rack.
FLEURONS
[Puff-pastry Puffs, for Decorations and Garnitures]
When you are not making a cover for the vol-au-vent, you may wish some extra bits of puff pastry to decorate the edge of the platter around the shell. These are called fleurons, or flowered shapes, because they are small and decorative, usually fluted ovals or crescents. Classic French recipes often suggest fleurons as a garnish to some of the beautiful filet of sole or scallop dishes, where pastry elegantly takes the place of a mundane starchy vegetable. You may make fleurons either out of the carefully preserved trimmings from your vol-au-vent or bouchée cuttings, or from the re-formed and reconstituted dough described after the next recipe.
Roll dough ¼ to ⅜ inch thick and make disks with a round, 3-inch, fluted cutter. With one stroke through the center, cut each disk into an oval and a crescent. |
Place ½ inch apart on a dampened pastry sheet and chill for at least half an hour to relax the dough—an hour or more would be better. Glaze with beaten egg, decorate with cross-hatching, and bake in middle level of a preheated 450-degree oven for 12 to 15 minutes, until nicely puffed, brown, and crisp.
PETITES BOUCHÉES
[Cocktail Shells of Puff Pastry]
Cocktail-size patty shells, petites bouchées or little mouthfuls 2 inches in diameter, are made in 1 layer. Use the leftover circles cut from the second layer, or rings, of larger patty shells, or cut circles from the leftover and reconstituted puff pastry dough in the following recipe.
Roll the dough ¼ to ⅜ inch thick, cut with a 2-inch fluted cutter, and arrange on a dampened baking sheet. With a 1-inch cutter or a small knife, press a cover outline in the top of the dough, going ⅛ inch deep. Glaze and bake, following the preceding directions for fleurons. When baked and still warm, delicately cut out the cover and remove any uncooked pastry from interiors. |
These small shells may then be filled and reheated for serving, or you may freeze them until needed.
UTILIZATION DES ROGNURES
[Reconstituting Leftover Dough into Puff Pastry Again]
You will have as much dough left over from cutting a vol-au-vent as you have in the vol-au-vent itself, and almost as much from bouchées. You can even make another vol-au-vent from these scraps, or half a dozen bouchées, or anything else calling for puff pastry. Demifeuilletée, the simpler puff pastry, is treated the same way. Puff pastry leftovers are called rognures, meaning trimmings or scraps. |
Your object is to join the scraps into one piece of dough in such a way that the layers of butter and flour in each scrap are horizontal, as they were when the dough was first made. Cut the scraps as necessary. |
Arrange them so that they will form a rectangle. Then paint an edge of each with cold water, overlap it slightly upon its neighbor, and seal the seam with the balls of your fingers. |
If you are very skillful, you can manage to make a few careful rolls with your pastry pin and join the seams of dough so perfectly that you can cut it out for patty shells or the 2 large disks needed for a Pithiviers. The surest system, however, is to flour dough lightly, roll into a rectangle, spread the top two thirds with a tablespoon of softened butter and fold in three. Wrap, chill an hour or two, and finish off with 2 more turns. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight, or freeze, so that dough will relax thoroughly before you use it again.
Re-use of leftovers
You can still get puffing and flakiness out of the leftover of leftovers, using the preceding system. The pastry will not be as tender when baked as it was at first, and it may well offer a bit of resistance when you roll it out. However, it works very well for most appetizers, as well as for cookies and for the fleurons and the petites bouchées in the 2 preceding recipes.
Puff Pastry Entrées
Cornets, Rouleaux, Cheese Napoleons, and Cheese Tarts
Just a few of the many delicious pastries you can make with pâte feuilletée are described and illustrated in the following pages; see also dessert pastries and cookies. One could easily write a book on puff pastry alone, and we find it hard to limit ourselves to a sensible few. We hope, however, that these recipes will give you a feel for how to use it so that you can go off on your own and be confident with other recipes you find elsewhere.
CORNETS
[Puff Pastry Horns—Cream Horns]
Strips of puff pastry are rolled around cone-shaped forms, baked until the pastry has browned and set, and baked again with a creamy cheese filling to make a most attractive first-course fantasy. (Encrusted with sugar, they come out of the oven with a caramel coating for dessert creams.)
For 18 to 20 horns about 5 inches long, serving 8 to 10 people
1) Forming the dough
18 to 20 buttered cream-horn molds (or bake the pastry in several batches)
2 large pastry sheets rinsed in cold water but not dried
½ the recipe for chilled simple puff pastry
A tray lined with wax paper for refrigerating pieces of dough you are not actually working on
A ruler or cutting guide
A ravioli wheel
A pastry brush and cup of cold water
Stand the buttered molds within easy reach, and have the pastry sheets near you. Roll the chilled pastry out into a rectangle 14 inches long, cut in half crosswise, and refrigerate 1 piece of dough. Roll remaining piece of dough rapidly into a rectangle ⅛ inch thick and slightly more than 8 by 13 or 14 inches in diameter. Trim off ragged edges. (If kitchen is hot, work very rapidly, and refrigerate all pieces or strips of dough you are not actually working on in the following steps.)
Cut strips of pastry ¾ to 1 inch wide and 13 to 14 inches long, using cutting guide and pastry wheel as shown. |
Paint a half-inch band of cold water along top length of a strip of dough. Hold mold by its large end; slip tip of mold under right end of dough strip, then pinch dough all around the tip of the mold to seal it. |
Holding tip of mold with your left hand, with your right hand rotate its large end clockwise—to your right—winding the dough onto the mold in a spiral from tip to large end, and letting dough overlap ⅛ inch upon itself as you go. Be careful not to stretch the dough, which should remain an even ⅛ inch thick. When dough is cold and firm, you will find it easy to work with. |
Seal end of dough at large end of mold, pressing with your fingers. Place horn on baking sheet, sealed-side of dough against sheet; press lightly to hold the horn in place. Proceed with the rest of the horns in the same manner. |
2) Chilling, glazing, and baking
Chill at least 30 minutes, but an hour is preferable, to relax dough before baking. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 425 degrees and set rack in middle level. Just before baking, paint tops and sides of horns with egg glaze (1 egg beaten in a small bowl with 1 tsp water), and make cross-hatching on surface with the point of a knife or the tines of a fork. Bake immediately; horns are done in 15 to 20 minutes, when molds slip easily out of them. For recipes where you are to fill the horns and bake them again, remove from oven when a pale brown so they will not darken too much during their second baking; otherwise leave them in a few minutes longer, to brown nicely.
(*) Pastries are at their best when eaten within a few hours of baking; you may keep them, however, in a warming oven at around 100 degrees for a day or so; otherwise wrap airtight and freeze them. To thaw, place on a lightly buttered baking sheet in a 400-degree oven; turn oven off, and leave about 10 minutes.
FONDUE DE FROMAGE POUR CORNETS, ROULEAUX, MILLE-FEUILLES, ET CROQUETTES
[Cheese Filling for Cream Horns, Mille-Feuilles, and Croquettes]
This is a very thick sauce that will not run or flow out of shape when heated in pastries, or when coated with beaten eggs and bread crumbs and deep-fried. Rather than cooking it in the usual way, with a flour and butter roux that is moistened with hot milk, you beat the milk into the flour and then add the butter, making what is technically known as a bouilli.
For about 2½ cups
¾ to 1 cup milk
½ cup all-purpose flour (measure by scooping dry-measure cup into flour and sweeping off excess with knife)
A heavy 2-quart saucepan
A wire whip and a rubber spatula
2 Tb butter
2 “large” eggs
Salt, pepper, pinch of nutmeg, and drops of Tabasco or a pinch of Cayenne pepper
4 ounces (about 1 cup) coarsely grated Swiss cheese
2 ounces (less than ½ cup) grated Parmesan cheese
3 to 4 Tb heavy cream
Gradually beat driblets of milk into the flour, in saucepan, adding ¾ cup and beating to a smooth consistency. Add butter, and set pan over moderate heat, stirring. When mixture comes near the boil and begins to be lumpy, remove from heat and beat vigorously to smooth it out. One by one, beat in the eggs, and bring to the boil, beating constantly. Sauce must be a thick paste; if very stiff, thin out over heat, beating in more milk by dribbles. Remove from heat, season with salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, and rather strongly with Tabasco or Cayenne pepper. Let cool for a few minutes, then fold in the cheese. Fold in just enough cream to soften it slightly, but sauce must hold its shape when mounded in a spoon; it should not spread out later, when cooked with pastries.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be made several days in advance of using; may be frozen. Clean off sides of pan, and press a sheet of plastic wrap over the surface of the sauce to prevent a skin or crust from forming.
Additions
Use half the amount of cheese called for in the preceding filling, and fold in ⅓ to ½ cup of either diced ham or mushroom duxelles (diced fresh mushrooms sautéed in butter, Volume I, page 515).
CORNETS À LA FONDUE DE FROMAGE
[Cream Horns Baked with Cheese Filling]
The preceding cheese filling A pastry bag with round tube opening Puff pastry cream horns, baked but barely browned Rather soft Swiss cheese A lightly buttered baking sheet |
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Pack the cheese filling into the pastry bag and squeeze it into each pastry horn. Grate cheese so that you have rather long whiskery wisps, and pack a large pinch into opening of each horn. |
Bake in upper third of preheated oven 10 to 12 minutes, to melt cheese and heat filling to bubbling hot. Serve as soon as possible.
ROULEAUX
If you cannot find molds for cream horns, you may find metal molds suitable for pastry rolls; or use pieces of well-oiled unvarnished wood 5 to 6 inches long, such as a cut-up broom handle. Form, bake, and fill puff pastry rolls in the same general manner described and illustrated for horns. When baked with the preceding cheese filling, stuff whiskers of cheese into both ends to prevent filling from oozing out.
MILLE-FEUILLES À LA FONDUE DE FROMAGE
[Cheese Napoleons]
You will probably find far more use for cheese Napoleons than for pastry-cream dessert Napoleons. They make an elegant first course or luncheon dish and are practically as easy to assemble as the count of one-two-three—when you have ready-made puff pastry on hand. A thin sheet of baked puff pastry is cut into squares or rectangles that are sandwiched together with the cheese fondue filling and baked until the filling is bubbling hot.
For 6 to 8 servings
1 sheet of baked puff pastry 12 by 16 inches in diameter (Napoleons; Steps 1 and 2)
A ruler or cutting guide
A pastry wheel or very sharp knife
Cut the baked puff pastry either into three 4- by 16-inch strips, and cut each strip into squares 4 inches to a side; or cut the pastry into four 3-inch strips 16 inches long, and cut each into 4 rectangles (making 12 squares, or 16 rectangles).
Preheat oven to 375 degrees about half an hour before you wish to serve. Have the filling and grated cheese ready. Place half the puff pastry pieces on the baking sheet. Spread a 3-tablespoon lump of the filling on each, but leaving a ¼-inch free border of pastry all around. Lightly press a second piece of pastry, best side uppermost, on top. Sprinkle on a half teaspoon of grated cheese.
Bake for about 15 minutes in preheated oven, upper-middle level, until cheese topping has colored lightly and cheese filling is bubbling hot—be careful not to bake too long and burn the pastry. Serve immediately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You may form the mille-feuilles for baking an hour or so in advance.
FEUILLETÉE AU FROMAGE—JALOUSIE AU FROMAGE
[Peekaboo Cheese Tart of French Puff Pastry]
Another delicious puff pastry for first courses, luncheons, or for slicing and serving with cocktails is the feuilletée. Quick to assemble, when you have puff pastry dough on hand, it is done exactly like the jam tart.
For a 6- by 16-inch, tart, serving 6 people
1) Forming the tart
½ the recipe for simple puff pastry, or reconstituted leftovers
A dampened pastry sheet
A table fork
Either ½ to ⅔ the cheese fondue filling;
Or 4 to 6 ounces Roquefort cheese or blue cheese, and 1 egg beaten with ½ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream, salt, pepper, and Tabasco
Roll half the pastry into an 8- by 18-inch rectangle ⅛ inch thick. Roll up on pin, and unroll topside down onto dampened pastry sheet. Prick all over at ⅛-inch intervals with tines of fork, going right down through to pastry sheet.
Either spread the fondue filling on the pastry, leaving a ¾-inch border all around; or cut cheese into thin slices and spread over pastry, leaving border. |
Turn borders of pastry up over filling at sides; wet corners, and turn ends over, sealing corners with fingers. If you are using Roquefort or blue cheese, spoon the egg and cream over it, tilting pastry in all directions, allowing liquid to flow all over enclosed area. |
Roll out second piece of pastry into a 7- by 17-inch rectangle ⅛ inch thick. Flour surface lightly, and fold in half lengthwise. Measure opening of filled pastry and mark folded pastry to guide you. Cut slits in dough from folded edge as shown, making them ⅜ inch apart and half as long as width of opening in tart. |
Wet edges of filled bottom layer of pastry with cold water. Unfold top layer over it; brush off accumulated flour, and press pastry in place with fingers. Then with back tines of a fork, press a decorative vertical edging all around sides of tart. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes before baking. |
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: When chilled and firm, may be wrapped airtight and frozen for several months. Remove from freezer, glaze, and bake as in Step 2.
2) Baking and serving—about 1 hour at 450 and 400 degrees
Egg glaze (1 egg beaten in a small bowl with 1 tsp water)
A pastry brush
A table fork or small knife
A rack
A serving tray or board
When oven has been preheated to 450 degrees, set rack in lower-middle level. Paint surface of chilled tart with egg glaze; wait a moment, and give it a second coat. Make cross-hatchings on top of sides and ends through glaze, and set in oven. In about 20 minutes, when pastry has risen and started to brown, turn oven down to 400 degrees. Cover loosely with foil or brown paper if surface is browning too much. Sides should be firm and crusty. Slide onto a rack when done. Serve warm or tepid, cutting into crosswise slices.
(*) Tart is best when freshly made, but you can store it for several hours in a warming oven at about 100 degrees.
Garnitures for Bouchées and Vol-au-Vent
RIS DE VEAU À LA FINANCIÈRE
[Braised Sweetbreads Garnished with Quenelles, Truffles, Mushrooms, and Olives]
This is certainly one of the great classic fillings for bouchées and large vol-au-vent, and delicious when properly done. Unfortunately, like Beef Wellington in the hands of the profane and cynical, gummy sauces, clumsy flavoring, and bad pastry have ruined its reputation. We urge you to give it another try, and you will understand why it has long been so popular with great chefs. You may not want to add all of the items listed, but you will have a delicious creamed sweetbread filling even if you do not do the full financière, which could also include cockscombs and white kidneys (crêtes et rognons de coq), although we have not listed them in the ingredients.
MANUFACTURING NOTE
This is the kind of filling that you can prepare the day before serving. We shall not give proportions of how much filling is to go into each pastry, because there is no way of knowing what size and how many you are to make; leftover filling will be just as good the next day, with scrambled eggs or as the filling for an omelette.
For about 1½ quarts, serving 6 to 8
1) The sweetbreads and the sauce base
2 lbs. soaked and peeled sweetbreads braised in wine, stock, and aromatic vegetables, Volume I, page 410
2 cups fresh baby mushrooms, or larger mushrooms quartered
2½ cups liquid as follows: the cooking stock from the sweetbreads plus half veal or chicken stock and half milk to complete the measure
A heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan, enameled or stainless
4 Tb butter
5 Tb flour
A wooden spoon and a wire whip
½ to ⅔ cup heavy cream
Remove sweetbreads to a plate, and strain cooking stock into a bowl. Return stock to braising dish. Trim mushrooms, wash rapidly in cold water, and quarter if necessary. Add mushrooms to liquid in braising dish and simmer 5 minutes. Dip or strain them out, and add to sweetbreads. In the heavy saucepan, melt the butter, blend in the flour, and stir over moderate heat with wooden spoon until flour and butter foam together for 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat, and as soon as this roux stops bubbling, pour in all the hot braising liquid at once, blending vigorously with wire whip until perfectly smooth.
Return over moderately high heat, and stir with wire whip as sauce thickens and comes to the boil. It will be quite thick. Thin out, still simmering, with spoonfuls of cream; sauce should coat spoon fairly heavily.
Salt and white pepper to taste
If needed: More white wine, Sercial Madeira, more stock, a pinch more thyme or bay leaf
Taste sauce very carefully for seasoning and strength. It may need simmering with more wine, or strengthening with Madeira, veal stock, a little beef stock, or herbs. If so, simmer it, stirring, and tasting until you are satisfied. The egg yolks, butter, and the other ingredients will give it more interest, but it should be delicious at this point. (You will need about equal quantities of sauce and garniture.)
2) The rest of the garniture, and final flavorings and enrichment
1 or more truffles and the juices from the can
Veal or chicken quenelles, poached, and cut into ½-inch pieces, Volume I, page 189 (or canned imported quenelles of veal or chicken), 1 to 1½ cups, depending on how much you have or need
⅔ cup small green pitted olives simmered 5 minutes in 1 quart of water
Salt and white pepper to taste
Drops of lemon juice
2 egg yolks blended with ¼ cup heavy cream in a small bowl
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Optional: truffle slices or a fluted cooked mushroom cap (Volume I, pages 510–11) for each serving
Cut the braised sweetbreads into ½-inch slices or into ½-inch dice, and set aside. Fold the mushrooms into the sauce. If you have several truffles, slice one and use for decoration later; dice the rest into small pieces and add to the sauce along with their juices. Fold in the diced quenelles and the olives. Bring to the simmer for 3 to 4 minutes to blend flavors, and taste very carefully for seasoning, adding salt, pepper, and lemon as needed. Remove from heat, beat several spoonfuls of hot sauce gradually into the cream and egg yolks, then fold the egg-yolk mixture back into the saucepan along with the sweetbreads. Reheat, folding slowly, to below the simmer. Remove from heat and fold in the butter, a spoonful at a time. Spoon into the hot bouchées or vol-au-vent, and serve immediately, topped, if you wish, with truffle slices or fluted mushrooms.
VARIATIONS
Garniture Dieppoise—Garniture aux Fruits de Mer
[Creamed Seafood Filling]
Adapt the marmite dieppoise, with its sole, halibut, shrimp, scallops, mussels, and lobsters, to the preceding recipe. Follow the marmite recipe, Steps 1 and 2, then boil the cooking liquid down to 2½ to 3 cups, and proceed with the sauce in the preceding recipe, Steps 1 and 2. Use sliced truffles or fluted mushrooms to garnish each serving.
Garniture de Volaille, Financière
[Diced Chicken in White-wine Sauce with Quenelles, Truffles, Mushrooms, and Olives]
Poach chicken pieces in white wine and aromatic vegetables, following the recipe for poulet poché au vin blanc, Steps 1 and 2. Peel and dice the chicken, and then proceed as for the sweetbreads, simply substituting chicken and chicken stock for fish and fish stock.
CHAPTER THREE
Meats: From Country Kitchen to Haute Cuisine
BRAISED BEEF
Boeuf Braisé, Paupiettes, and Daubes
WHETHER IT IS ONE LARGE PIECE or a dozen small ones, whether you use red wine or white, whether or not you marinate it, lard it, flour it, thicken its juices at the beginning or at the end, all beef that is braised undergoes much the same process, and if you have done one you can do all. This is comforting to remember when you run into a new pot roast or stew: it is only the small differences in method, garnishing, or flavor that distinguish one recipe from another. For example, the fine boeuf en daube à la provençale sounds as though it were quite a different dish from the boeuf à la mode in Volume I on page 309, but you will see they are very much related: while the beef for the daube is larded with ham, and is put into a thickened sauce from the beginning of its braise, the sauce for the boeuf à la mode is thickened at the end of the cooking. Again, in a comparison of beef stews you find the boeuf bourguignon in Volume I braising in a flour-thickened sauce, while the boeuf aux oignons follows the simpler pattern of having its sauce thickened at the end with beurre manié (flour-butter paste). The methods are actually interchangeable, and you can conduct any braise exactly as you wish; the more techniques you have absorbed, the more you are master of la cuisine.
MARINATING THE BEEF BEFORE COOKING
An aromatic wine marinade adds its own special flavor to beef, and is always an effective tenderizer for the tougher cuts. Marinate or not, as you wish, for any of the following recipes, using the formula for the daube, and dry white wine rather than red, if you wish. For the marinade to be effective, stew meat or meat for paupiettes needs at least 6 hours, and a roast, 12 hours. Several days of marination in the refrigerator will be even more penetrating, and the marinade will also preserve the meat a little longer. In other words, rather than freezing it, if you are a once-a-week shopper, marinate it. Drain and dry the beef thoroughly before proceeding with any recipe. Substitute the marinade vegetables and wine for whatever is called for in the recipe, and if carrots are not one of the ingredients listed, for instance, add the marinade carrots anyway, since such details are of small importance.
LARDONS, PORK FAT, BACON, AND SUET
Lardons, those stick-shaped bits of fat-and-lean pork 1½ inches long and ¼ inch thick, are typical of French stews. Their rendered fat browns the beef, and their flavor adds a subtle touch to its sauce. Fresh, unsalted, and unsmoked pork belly is the cut to use if you can find it, otherwise substitute chunk bacon, cut, and blanched (simmered) 10 minutes in a quart of water to remove its salty, smoky taste. (Fat-and-lean salt pork, if very fresh and fine, is another alternative, but it must also be blanched.) Pork fat for larding and for draping over the meat is discussed in the charcuterie chapter. If you prefer suet, although it tends to shrink up, use fat from the outside of a rib or a loin of beef.
BEEF CUTS FOR STEWS
Most markets have ready-cut stew meat all packaged by the pound, and there is no telling what it is. If you want to order your own, the following are some recommended cuts.
Cuts from the round (hind leg)—la cuisse
TOP ROUND, tende de tranche. This is rather expensive, but furnishes solid pieces of meat with no muscle separations.
BOTTOM ROUND, gîte à la noix. This also furnishes solid pieces, but the cooked meat will tend to be somewhat grainy; be sure not to overcook it, to avoid an accentuation of this quality. The eye of the round, part of this cut, rond de gîte à la noix, is not at all recommended for stewing because of its excessive graininess.
SIRLOIN TIP (also called KNUCKLE), tranche grasse. Lower parts and outside of this cut, when clear of gristle, can be used for stewing.
HEEL OF ROUND, nerveux gîte à la noix. The hind shank when boned and de-gristled makes excellent, gelatinous stew meat, but benefits from a marinade and longer cooking.
Cuts from the chuck (shoulder end)
SHOULDER BLADE, paleron; SHOULDER ARM, macreuse and jumeau; CHUCK RIBS, basses côtes or côtes découvertes; NECK, collier. There are numerous fine stewing cuts from this section, but usually only Jewish or European butchers know them. Especially recommended are the chuck tender, a conical muscle lying along one side of the shoulder blade; flunken or flanken, the top of the chuck short ribs; arm pot roast.
Cuts from the underside and short ribs—caparaçon et plat de côtes
These include the brisket, poitrine, which is really too grainy for stewing but fine for braising whole; the plate, tendron, with its mixture of fat and lean and its cartilaginous bones, which make for good sauce consistency; and the flank, flanchet, which is not for stewing in pieces but may be stuffed and braised whole if it is not scored and broiled for steak. The short ribs, plat de côtes couvert (ribs 7 to 9), are excellent in a stew but take up a lot of room in your casserole because the bones are left in; however, they have excellent flavor and the meat with bones makes a delicious sauce.
BOEUF AUX OIGNONS
[Beef Stew with Onions and Red Wine]
This is the most elemental of beef stews, with its lardons of pork that render the fat that browns the beef that simmers in wine, along with onions, herbs, garlic, and a hint of tomato. Delicious just as it is, the inclusion of other elements changes its character as well as its name, making it, in fact, the perfect stew for our game of theme and variations. Buttered noodles, buttered peas, and little tomatoes go beautifully with this stew, but if you wish to branch into more exotic preparations you might choose one of the eggplant recipes, such as the sauté en persillade, or the broiled eggplant slices, accompanied, perhaps, with individual servings of potatoes in the form of pommes duchesse. A full and hearty red wine like Beaujolais, Côtes-du-Rhône, or Mountain Red is called for here.
For 6 people
1) Browning the beef and other preliminaries
5 to 6 ounces (⅔ cup) lardons (1½-inch sticks of blanched bacon ¼ inch thick)
A large (11-inch) frying pan (no-stick recommended)
A heavy, covered, 5- to 6-quart casserole (such as a round one, 10 by 4 inches)
Brown the lardons lightly with a tablespoon of the oil in the frying pan; transfer with a slotted spoon to the casserole, leaving fat in frying pan.
3½ to 4 lbs. boned and trimmed beef stew meat cut into chunks about 2 by 3 by 1 inches (see list of cuts)
Paper towels
1 tsp salt
⅛ tsp pepper
While lardons are browning, dry meat thoroughly in paper towels, and when lardons are done, raise heat under pan to moderately high. When fat in pan is very hot but not smoking, add as many pieces of beef as will fit easily in one layer. Turn every 2 to 3 minutes, browning meat nicely on all sides. (Add a tablespoon or so more oil if needed.) As some pieces are browned, transfer to casserole and brown additional ones until all are done and transferred to casserole. Toss and turn the meat with the salt and pepper.
2) Assembling braising ingredients
2 cups sliced onions
2 large cloves garlic, mashed
2 cups beef stock or bouillon (more if needed)
A medium herb bouquet tied in washed cheesecloth (1 imported bay leaf, 4 parsley sprigs, and ½ tsp thyme)
1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped
Optional, but desirable for sauce consistency: 2 cups chopped or sawed veal knuckle bones or beef marrow bones, and/or an 8-inch square of blanched pork rind (Volume I, page 401)
2 cups full-bodied, young, red wine (such as Mâcon or Mountain Red)
If fat in frying pan has burned and blackened, discard it and pour ⅛ inch of oil into pan. Add onions and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes or until fairly tender and beginning to brown lightly. Meanwhile add to the meat in the casserole the garlic, bouillon, herbs, tomato, and optional ingredients. When the onions are done, stir them in. To deglaze frying pan, pour in the wine, scraping around with a wooden spoon to dislodge all cooking juices. Finally, pour wine into casserole, adding a little more (or more stock), if necessary, so ingredients are just covered.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Recipe may be done a day or two in advance to this point. When cold, cover and refrigerate.
Bring stew to simmer on top of stove, cover casserole, and either maintain at slow simmer on top of stove or place in lower-middle level of preheated 350-degree oven; regulate heat so that stew simmers slowly throughout cooking. Turn and baste the meat occasionally. Stew is done when you can pierce the beef quite easily with a knife; slice into it and sample several pieces if you have any doubts.
TIMING: Note that aged, prime beef will cook faster than other grades, regardless of cut.
Sirloin tip, rump, top round, flunken—1½ to 2½ hours.
Bottom round, shoulder arm, chuck tender, short ribs—2 to 3 hours.
Heel of round, and other gelatinous cuts with muscle separation and gristle—3 to 4 hours.
4) Sauce
A 2- to 3-quart saucepan
4 Tb flour
3 Tb soft butter in a 1-quart bowl
A rubber spatula
A wire whip
Set cover askew and pour cooking liquid out of casserole into saucepan. Discard herb bouquet and bones from casserole. With a large spoon, skim as much surface fat as you can from liquid, then bring to the simmer, skimming, to remove more fat.
Taste carefully for strength and seasoning; if weak, boil down rapidly to concentrate flavor, adding, if you think it necessary, a little tomato paste, another clove of mashed garlic, more herbs, salt, and pepper. When you are satisfied, remove from heat; you should have about 3 cups of rich and delicious liquid that must now be thickened into a sauce with beurre manié. To do so, blend flour and butter to a smooth paste with rubber spatula; beat vigorously into hot liquid with wire whip. When perfectly smooth, bring liquid to the simmer, stirring with wire whip, and simmer 2 minutes. Sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon, meaning it will coat the meat nicely. If too thin, add half again as much beurre manié; if too thick, stir in stock or bouillon. Fold the sauce into the meat in the casserole.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not serving immediately, set cover askew and keep warm in a 120-degree oven, over simmering water, or on a hot-tray. For serving several hours or several days later, let cool; lay plastic wrap over surface, cover, and refrigerate (or wrap airtight and freeze for several weeks).
5) Serving
If needed: a warm, lightly buttered platter
Parsley sprigs, watercress, or whatever vegetables you wish to use as a garnish
If stew is warm, bring to the simmer again before serving. If it has been chilled, it should simmer 5 to 10 minutes after it has either warmed through slowly on top of the stove or been about 30 minutes in a 350-degree oven. Taste carefully again for seasoning, and if sauce has thickened too much, fold in a little stock or bouillon. Serve either from casserole or turn out onto platter; decorate with greenery or vegetables.
VARIATIONS
Boeuf au Pistou
[Beef Stew with an Herb, Cheese, and Garlic Finish]
This delicious enrichment comes at the very end, after the sauce has been thickened and just before you are ready to serve the beef. The fresh garlic, herbs, cheese, and a bit of tomato will pep up any stew, and is particularly useful for leftovers and canned or frozen mixtures.
To be added just before serving the stew, Step 5.
2 large cloves garlic
A garlic press
A small bowl or mortar
A pestle or wooden spoon
A dozen large leaves of fresh minced basil, or 1 tsp fragrant dried basil or oregano
¼ cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese
3 Tb tomato paste
4 dashes Tabasco sauce
Purée garlic through press into bowl. With pestle or wooden spoon, mash it to a paste, then mash with the herbs. Stir in the cheese, tomato paste, and Tabasco. Cover and set aside until you are ready to serve. Stir the pistou into finished stew, basting meat with sauce to blend it thoroughly with the pistou.
Boeuf à la Provençale
[Beef Stew with Garlic and Anchovy Finish]
The mixture of anchovies, capers, garlic, and parsley described in Volume I, page 324, is an alternate enrichment. Add it as directed for the pistou in the preceding recipe.
Boeuf en Pipérade
[Beef Stew with a Garnish of Peppers and Tomatoes]
Another enlivening finish to a stew is the pipérade, a fresh sauté of green peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs.
To be added just before serving the boeuf aux oignons, Master Recipe, Step 5.
2 medium-sized green bell peppers, seeded and diced
2 to 3 Tb olive oil or cooking oil in a frying pan
3 or 4 firm, fresh, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and diced
2 large cloves of garlic, mashed or minced
A cover for the pan
Salt and pepper to taste
8 large fresh basil leaves, minced, or ½ tsp fragrant dried basil or oregano and 3 Tb fresh minced parsley
Sauté the diced peppers in the oil over moderately low heat for 5 to 6 minutes, or until almost tender. Fold in the diced tomato pulp and garlic; cover pan and cook slowly for several minutes until tomatoes have rendered their juice. Raise heat and toss vegetables for several minutes over high heat to evaporate almost all liquid. Fold in salt and pepper to taste, and the herbs. Set aside until stew is finished. When reheating stew for serving, fold the pipérade into the stew, and simmer 5 minutes to blend flavors.
Boeuf aux Olives
[Beef Stew with Olives and Potatoes]
Olives give a very Mediterranean touch and subtle flavor to anything they cook with, and potatoes make the stew practically a one-dish meal. Any of the three preceding garnishes—peppers, anchovies, or pistou—may be included as well, if you wish.
To be added near the end of the braising period, when beef has about ½ hour more to cook (Master Recipe for boeuf aux oignons, Step 3).
1) Preparing the olives and potatoes
⅓ cup each: small, pitted green olives, and black, Mediterranean-type olives, pitted
1 quart of water in a saucepan
To remove excess salt and too strong a taste, simmer the olives for 10 minutes; drain. If black olives are still too strong for your taste, simmer them separately 10 minutes more. Leave olives whole if small (¾ inch long), quarter lengthwise if larger.
2½ to 3 lbs. “boiling” potatoes all of a size, about 3 inches long
A bowl of cold water
Peel potatoes, halve lengthwise, and trim into the shape of large garlic cloves about 2½ inches long and 1½ inches at their thickest, making 3 or 4 pieces per person. Reserve in cold water.
A saucepan of salted water for the potatoes
The boeuf aux oignons, braised until almost tender, Step 3
A round of waxed paper or of aluminum foil
A few minutes before they are to be added to the stew, drain the potatoes and place in a saucepan of cold water; bring rapidly to the boil, and boil 1 minute. Drain. Meanwhile, skim accumulated fat off top of stew, remove from casserole any bones, rind, or other extraneous matter, including herb bouquet, and carefully correct seasoning of cooking liquid. Stir in the olives. Spread the potatoes over the top of the stew, press them down into the cooking liquid, and baste with the liquid. Bring stew again to simmer on top of stove, lay paper or foil over potatoes, cover casserole again, and maintain at simmer for about 30 minutes, or until potatoes are tender, basting them once or twice with the cooking liquid.
3) Finishing the stew
Optional but attractive: one of the 3 garnishes in the preceding recipes (pistou especially)
Beurre manié if needed: 2 Tb flour blended to a paste with 1½ Tb soft butter
If you wish: a hot, buttered platter
Parsley sprigs or minced fresh parsley
You may find that the cooking liquid is sufficiently degreased and sufficiently thickened so that you can serve the stew as is. Otherwise, set cover askew and drain cooking liquid into a saucepan; skim off fat, and correct seasoning. If liquid is lightly thickened and you are using the pistou, which will thicken it a little more, simply blend the pistou into the cooking liquid and pour back into the casserole. If liquid is thin, beat in the beurre manié, bring to the boil, mix in the pistou or other garnish if you are using one, and pour back into casserole. Reheat the stew just before serving, and bring to the table either in its casserole or arranged on a platter and decorated with herbs.
Boeuf au Gingembre
[Beef Stew Flavored with Ginger, Capers, and Herbs]
Ginger gives an especially attractive and unusual flavor to beef, and this dish has rather Chinese overtones of sweet and sour. Because of the special flavors, including vinegar, the usual red wine of the beef stew is omitted in this recipe.
Complete Master Recipe for boeuf aux oignons, through Step 2, but omit the 2 cups of red wine; substitute 2 more cups stock or bouillon and the following.
⅓ cup pressed-down pain d’épices, gingerbread, or ginger-snaps
1½ Tb fresh ginger, grated, or 2 tsp powdered ginger
2 Tb capers
¼ cup wine vinegar
2 Tb fresh tarragon or basil, or 1 tsp dried herbs
2 cups of the bouillon called for in the Master Recipe
An electric blender
Purée the bread or gingersnaps, ginger, capers, vinegar, herbs, and 1 cup of the bouillon in the blender. Pour mixture into casserole of beef, rinse out blender jar with more bouillon, pour into casserole, and proceed with recipe.
NOTE: When beef is tender, at end of Step 3, and you have drained out, skimmed, boiled down, and seasoned the cooking liquid as directed in the next step, you will probably find that it has thickened enough so that you need do nothing more to it.
STUFFED BEEF ROLLS
Paupiettes de Boeuf—Roulades
Thin slices of beef rolled around a stuffing and braised in wine is only a more elaborate way of presenting the familiar beef stew. Paupiettes with a pork and veal stuffing and mustard sauce appear in Volume I on page 319, an excellent recipe. The first one here is a giant paupiette de Gargantua, serving 6 people, while variations are for individual rolls. Stuffings include a Provençal mixture of greens, onions, pork, and ham, an olive mixture, a pepper mixture, and a final combination of rice, garlic, and herbs.
BEEF CUTS FOR PAUPIETTES
Look for solid pieces of meat that will make large, thin, cross-grain slices with no muscle separations. Avoid cuts like brisket, which tend to fall into long, loose fibers after cooking. Top round (tende de tranche, noix) is our first choice, and a cut from the upper-middle portion will give perfect slices 10 to 12 inches across by 5 to 7 inches. Rump (rumsteck) works nicely, of course, but it is a waste to spend the extra money for rump when round is equally good. Bottom round (gîte à la noix) is a little grainier than top round, but a satisfactory alternative. Shoulder-arm steak (macreuse) is fourth choice only because of the gristle running through part of the slice, but you can clip the gristle in several places so that it will not draw the meat out of shape.
LA PAUPIETTE DE GARGANTUA
[Giant Stuffed Beef Roll]
Rather than making a number of individual paupiettes, this recipe rolls them all into one, and, because the stuffing is green, you need no green vegetable garnish. You could accompany the paupiette with broiled tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms, and glazed carrots, or with braised lettuce or endives and sautéed potatoes. Another suggestion is one of the unusual purées, squash and white beans, rice and turnips with garlic, or rutabagas. A full red wine is called for, as in all beef dishes: Burgundy, Moulin-à-Vent, Côtes-du-Rhône.
For 6 people
1) Preparing the meat
A 2- to 2½-lb. slice of top round of beef approximately 12 by 6 inches and ¾ to 1 inch thick (see Beef Cuts for Stews)
3 Tb strong Dijon-type prepared mustard
½ tsp mixed herbs such as thyme and bay leaf, or Italian Seasoning
Trim outside fat and gristle off meat. You are now to cut the slice of beef so that you can open it up like a book, making 2 flaps of meat hinged together at one side. To do so, lay it flat on table and start at one of the long sides with a long, very sharp knife; slice through center of meat, parallel to table, ending ½ inch from other long side. Open up the meat, spread mustard and herbs on inside surface, and set aside while preparing stuffing, next step.
2) Green stuffing with pork, ham, and onions—for about 3 cups
1 cup minced onions
2 Tb rendered pork fat or cooking oil
An 8-inch enameled or no-stick frying pan
Cook the onions with the fat or oil in the pan over moderately low heat until tender but not browned.
About ½ lb. greens (collard, kale, turnip, or spinach, fresh or frozen)
A large stainless-steel knife
If greens are fresh, pick them over to remove stems; drop leaves into a large kettle of boiling, salted water, and boil until wilted and fairly tender (2–3 minutes for spinach, more for the others). If frozen, boil for sufficient time in a covered pan with ½ cup salted water until defrosted and fairly tender. Drain cooked greens, refresh in cold water, squeeze out as much water as possible, and chop fine. Then add greens to onions, and stir over moderate heat for several minutes to evaporate moisture and to finish cooking.
A 3-quart mixing bowl (or heavy-duty electric mixer)
1 egg
1 tsp salt
½ tsp épices fines, or mixture of all-spice, thyme, and bay leaf
¼ tsp pepper
1 large clove garlic, mashed
¼ cup dry crumbs from nonsweetened, homemade-type white bread
1 cup diced boiled ham
½ cup fresh sausage meat
Scrape greens and onions into mixing bowl and vigorously beat in the rest of the ingredients listed. Sauté a spoonful, taste, and correct seasoning.
3) Assembling the paupiette
Either a 14-inch square of caul fat;
Or a 12- by 8-inch sheet of pork fat ¼ inch thick;
Or 6 to 8 strips of thick bacon or salt pork, and a 12- by 6-inch piece of beef suet ¼ inch thick
White kitchen string
(If using salt pork or bacon, blanch 10 minutes in 2 quarts of water, and pat dry.) Spread the stuffing over the meat, leaving an inch border of clear meat all around. Starting at one long side, roll the meat rather loosely around the stuffing, making a sausage shape about 4 inches in diameter. Fold over the two ends. If you have caul fat, roll the meat in a double thickness of it; tie lengthwise and in several places around the circumference. Otherwise, place strips of pork fat, bacon, or salt pork over length, particularly the seam, and the ends; tie in place, and reserve remaining pieces of fat for later.
4) Browning the paupiette—preheat oven to 450 degrees
Pork fat or cooking oil
A heavy casserole, preferably oval, and just large enough to hold the meat
A medium onion roughly sliced
A medium carrot roughly sliced
(The paupiette is soft and must be handled carefully to prevent stuffing from bursting out; it will stiffen after browning.) Pat meat gently with paper towels to dry it. Film casserole with ⅛ inch of fat or oil, and place meat seam-side up in casserole. Strew vegetables around meat. Brown over moderate heat, loosening bottom of meat carefully with a spatula from time to time to prevent sticking. Baste top of meat with fat in pan and set uncovered in upper-middle level of oven to brown top and sides. Baste every 3 to 4 minutes with fat or oil for the 12 to 15 minutes it will take to brown. Remove casserole from oven.
Salt, pepper, and more of the same herbs
1½ cups dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
1½ or more cups beef stock or bouillon
Aluminum foil and the casserole cover
Turn down oven to 325 degrees. Season the meat with salt, pepper, and herbs. Pour in the wine and enough stock or bouillon to come ½ to ⅔ the way up the meat. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove. If you are using it, drape suet over meat. Place foil on top, cover the casserole, and place in middle level of oven. Baste meat several times during cooking, and regulate oven heat so that liquid is only slowly simmering in casserole. Paupiette is done when a knife will pierce the meat easily.
TIMING: 1½ to 2 hours for top-grade beef; as much as an hour more for other cuts and qualities.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: Meat may be either stuffed or browned in advance of braising. Braised meat may be kept warm in a 120-degree oven for an hour or more. It may be cooled and reheated, but will not have quite the same delicious texture.
6) Sauce and serving
A hot serving platter
A sieve set over a saucepan
If needed: 1 Tb of cornstarch blended with 2 Tb white wine, vermouth, or stock
2 Tb soft butter
A hot sauce bowl
Watercress, parsley, or whatever vegetables you wish, to garnish platter
Remove paupiette to hot platter, discard strings and fat, replace foil cover over meat, and keep warm in turned-off oven. Strain cooking liquid into saucepan, pressing juice out of braising ingredients. Skim off fat. You should have 1½ to 2 cups liquid slightly thickened by the braising ingredients and the crumbs in the stuffing. (If thin, remove from heat, beat in cornstarch mixture, and simmer for 2 minutes.) Correct seasoning. Just before serving, stir in butter, a half spoonful at a time, spoon a little sauce over meat, and pour rest into sauce bowl. Garnish platter with greenery or vegetables, and serve immediately.
Other stuffings—other garnishings
In addition to the green-pepper stuffing and the garlic and rice stuffing in the following variations, and the veal and pork stuffing on page 319 in Volume I, other possibilities are listed. Rather than the braising and sauce-making system described here, you may follow that for the daube, or for the beef stews and their variations, which include pistou, pipérade, and ginger flavorings.
VARIATION
The following recipe describes the procedure for making individual paupiettes. We have suggested large and luxurious slices of meat; the stuffing is spread over them, and the slice is rolled up like a rug. When you wish to be more economical, make twice the amount of stuffing, use beef slices half as large, and rather than rolling like a rug, fold the meat around the stuffing to enclose it, almost exactly as illustrated for the stuffed cabbage leaves.
Paupiettes de Boeuf à la Catalane
[Beef Rolls Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Mustard Bread]
For 4 paupiettes, 1 per person
1) Preparing the beef for stuffing
4 slices of top round of beef 10 to 12 by 6 to 7 inches and ⅜ inch thick (see Beef Cuts for Stews)
Waxed paper
A mallet or rolling pin
Salt and pepper
½ tsp thyme or oregano
(If you cannot have the beef sliced to your order and have difficulty at home, you can freeze the piece of beef and slice when not quite stiffened, or when partially thawed. This will not harm the meat at all.) Trim off all outside fat and gristle. One by one, pound each slice between sheets of waxed paper with a mallet or rolling pin, to break down the fibers somewhat and to prevent meat from cooking out of shape. Lay out flat, season tops with salt, pepper, and herbs.
2) Green-pepper, onion, and mustard-bread stuffing—for 3 cups
1½ cups minced onions
1 tsp mixed, ground thyme, bay leaf, and oregano, or mixed herbs such as Provençal or Italian seasoning
Olive oil or cooking oil as needed
A medium (10-inch) frying pan (no-stick recommended)
1½ cups diced green bell peppers (2 medium peppers)
A mixing bowl
3 slices light rye bread
4 to 5 Tb strong, Dijon-type prepared mustard
2 or 3 large cloves of garlic, mashed or minced
1 egg, lightly beaten
Salt and pepper
Cook the onions and herbs with 3 tablespoons of the oil in the frying pan for 8 to 10 minutes over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and starting to brown. Stir in the diced peppers and cook, stirring, 4 to 5 minutes more, until peppers are almost tender. Scoop into mixing bowl. Spread both sides of the bread with mustard, film frying pan with ⅛ inch more oil, and brown bread lightly on both sides. Dice the bread and add to the bowl; stir in the garlic, egg, and salt and pepper to taste.
Assuming that the beef slices are roughly rectangular in shape, choose the neatest of the small sides to be the exposed end of the roll. Divide stuffing in four, spread one part over each slice, leaving an inch of clear meat for the exposed end and ½ inch at the sides. Roll the meat up to enclose the stuffing and secure with 2 or 3 toothpicks.
4) Browning, braising, and serving the paupiettes
Follow the ingredients and method in the Master Recipe, Steps 4 through 6.
OTHER STUFFINGS FOR PAUPIETTES
Farce Niçoise
[Olive and Pimento Stuffing with Garlic and Herbs]
For 4 paupiettes—2 cups
¼ cup stale, not-too-fine crumbs from non-sweetened, homemade-type white bread
2 to 3 Tb wine vinegar
⅔ to ¾ cup (two 2¼-ounce cans) chopped ripe black olives
½ cup (about 3 ounces) canned red pimentos, diced
2 large cloves of garlic, mashed or minced
½ tsp sage
⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Drops of Tabasco sauce
¼ cup (2 ounces) finely minced fresh pork fat or blanched bacon
4 Tb strong, Dijon-type prepared mustard (to spread on paupiettes)
Stir the bread crumbs in a small bowl with enough vinegar barely to moisten them; let sit for a few minutes. Stir the olives, pimentos, garlic, sage, and cheese in a mixing bowl. Blend in the moistened crumbs, and season strongly with salt, pepper, and Tabasco. Blend in the minced pork fat or bacon. Just before you are ready to stuff the paupiettes, spread topside of meat with mustard, then with the stuffing.
La Farce à l’Ail de Mme. Cassiot
[Rice and Garlic Stuffing with Herbs]
This fine and very simple stuffing for garlic lovers may have either rice or rather coarse stale bread crumbs for a base. If it is bread crumbs, however, they must come from the type of bread that has texture and body, like your own French bread. Because the typical store-bought, white, squashy bread disintegrates into mush, we have confined our recipe to rice. If you want crumbs and have the right sort, stir ½ cup beef stock or bouillon into 1½ cups of stale crumbs; let sit 5 minutes, then squeeze crumbs as dry as possible in the corner of a towel.
For 4 paupiettes—2 cups
¾ cup cooked rice
¾ cup fresh pork fat or blanched bacon (6 ounces)
6 to 8 large cloves of garlic, very finely minced
½ tsp thyme or oregano
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
½ tsp salt
⅛ tsp pepper
4 Tb strong Dijon-type prepared mustard
Either put the rice and pork fat or bacon through the coarse blade of a meat grinder, or put rice through a food mill and finely mince the fat or bacon. Stir together in a bowl with the garlic, herbs, salt and pepper. Just before you are ready to stuff paupiettes, spread topside of each slice with mustard, then with the stuffing.
BOEUF EN DAUBE À LA PROVENÇALE
[Braised Pot Roast of Beef with Wine, Tomatoes, and Provençal Flavorings]
This is a large, whole piece of braising beef larded with strips of ham, marinated in red wine and herbs, and slowly simmered in a lightly thickened mixture of the marinade liquid, beef stock, and tomatoes, which turns into a rich ready-made sauce at the end of the cooking. It is a splendid braising method, and one you can adapt to stews as well as pot roasts, and to duck, goose, lamb, livers, and hearts as well as to beef. Rather than the usual potatoes or pasta and buttered peas or beans, or glazed carrots and onions, and sautéed mushrooms, you could serve the little white turnips sautéed in butter, or the onions stuffed with rice, and either the broccoli braised in butter or one of the sautéed zucchinis. A full-bodied red wine is definitely called for here—a Burgundy, a Côtes-du-Rhône, or a Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
TIMING NOTES
Braised beef may be made ready for cooking a day ahead or may be fully cooked a day or two in advance, if need be. Allow yourself enough leeway for the actual braising, however, if you wish to serve soon after it has cooked. Unless you are sure of your meat quality, allow 5 hours from the moment you put it into the oven to the moment you wish to serve. This will give you extra time for tough meat, and leisure for the details of trimming and sauce making.
BEEF CUTS FOR BRAISING WHOLE
TOP ROUND, tende de tranche. Sometimes called inside round, this is a first-choice piece for braising whole because it is solid meat with no separations, and is not fibrous when cooked.
UNDERCUT CHUCK, basses côtes découvertes. The continuation of the roast rib of beef section into the shoulder end, usually ribs 2 to 5, makes a choice and tender morsel. You will probably find this only at Jewish or European markets, although a supermarket boneless chuck pot roast can substitute for it.
SHOULDER-ARM POT ROAST, macreuse. Again, this may not be available except at Jewish or foreign markets; it will usually take longer cooking than the two preceding cuts, but has excellent flavor.
BOTTOM ROUND OR SILVERSIDE, and EYE OF ROUND, gîte à la noix and rond de gîte à la noix. These two cuts always look attractive, especially the eye of round, with its long, shapely form that resembles a tenderloin. We prefer the bottom round to the eye because it is less fibrous when cooked, but both are acceptable choices.
SIRLION TIP or KNUCKLE, tranche grasse. This cut from the round has numerous muscle separations, and is sometimes called knuckle because it passes over the knee of the hind leg. It braises well, but needs firm tying to give it an attractive shape.
MIDDLE OF BRISKET, milieu de poitrine. Although coarse-grained when cooked, brisket has excellent flavor; slice it on the bias like flank steak. A good butcher will bone and de-fat it for you; if it is a long, flat piece, roll and tie it for braising.
For 8 to 10 people
1) Preparing the beef
A trimmed and boned 6-lb. piece of braising beef from preceding list (preferably one that can be tied into a cylindrical shape 10 to 12 inches long)
For optional larding of meat: a 4- by 6-inch slice of prosciutto or ready-to-cook ham slice about ¼ inch thick
Trim meat, if necessary, to make a fairly even cylinder or rectangle with no loose fat or gristly pieces. To lard the meat, follow illustrated directions, using ham rather than the pork fat called for in the larding directions. Whether or not you have larded it, tie the beef, also as illustrated, to keep it in shape during cooking.
2) Marinating the meat—at least 12 hours or for several days
NOTE: You may omit this step and proceed directly to Step 3.
1 bottle (almost 4 cups) full, strong, young, red wine (Mâcon, Beaujolais, California Mountain Red)
½ cup red-wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
6 cloves unpeeled garlic, halved
2 medium-sized onions and 2 carrots, sliced
1 Tb coarse salt or table salt
The following herb bouquet, tied in washed cheesecloth: 2 imported bay leaves, 4 cloves or allspice berries, 6 peppercorns, ½ tsp each of dried fennel seeds, oregano, thyme, and marjoram
An enameled, glazed, or stainless bowl or casserole just large enough to hold meat comfortably
Mix the marinade ingredients in the bowl or casserole, add the beef and baste it. (Liquid should come at least halfway up.) Marinate, turning and basting meat several times a day, for at least 12 hours or for several days either at a temperature of 40 to 50 degrees or in the refrigerator. When you are ready for the next step, drain beef, and wipe thoroughly dry with paper towels. Strain marinade, reserving both liquid and vegetables for Step 5.
3) Browning the beef and the braising ingredients
NOTE: If you have not marinated the beef, add all the ingredients from Step 2, except the vinegar, to the ingredients here.
Either 4 Tb rendered fresh pork fat or goose fat;
Or olive oil or cooking oil
6 ounces (¾ cup) lardons (1½-inch sticks of blanched bacon ¼ inch thick)
A heavy, covered casserole or roaster large enough to hold meat comfortably (or brown meat in a large frying pan and transfer to roaster afterwards)
For added flavor and body: 1 quart of sawed veal knuckle bones and/or beef soup bones; or a split and blanched calf’s foot
The drained marinade vegetables
The marinade liquid
A strip of fresh pork fat ⅛ inch thick and long and wide enough to cover top and sides of beef; or beef suet
White string
The marinade bouquet of herbs
Optional but desirable for the sauce: a 6-inch square of blanched pork rind (Volume I, page 401)
Cook the lardons slowly in the fat or oil in the casserole (or frying pan) until very lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Pour 4 to 5 Tb of fat out of the casserole and reserve for the roux, next step. Raise heat to moderately high and brown the well-dried beef on all sides and ends, lifting and turning it with the help of its trussing strings. (This will take 10 minutes or more; regulate heat so meat browns nicely but fat does not burn. Add more fat or oil if needed.) Remove beef and brown the optional bones or calf’s foot and the marinade vegetables for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring and tossing over high heat. Set cover askew on casserole, drain out cooking fat, and pour in marinade liquid. Stir with wooden spoon to dislodge all coagulated bits of brown flavor into liquid. Tie strip of fat about beef (see illustrations), push bones aside, and lay the beef, fat-covered side up, in casserole. Add the bouquet of herbs, the lardons, and the optional pork rind to the casserole, and set aside until you are ready to braise, Step 5.
4) The brown roux to thicken the braising sauce
A heavy-bottomed saucepan in thick, cast aluminum or a heavy cast-iron frying pan, about 6 inches bottom diameter
The 4 Tb reserved fat from Step 3
⅓ cup flour (measure by scooping dry-measure cup into flour and sweeping off excess)
A wooden spoon
1½ cups beef stock (or bouillon) heated in a small saucepan
A wire whip
A ladle
(NOTE: You will have a better roux if you cook it separately rather than in the casserole after browning meat and bones.)
Be sure to pick a heavy pan; melt the fat in it over moderate heat, blend in the flour, and stir continuously for about 15 minutes until flour slowly turns a dark, nutty brown. (It must not blacken, burn, and turn bitter, but it must brown properly so as to give the right flavor and color to the sauce.) Remove from heat, and when roux has stopped bubbling, blend in all the hot stock at once with wire whip. When perfectly smooth, ladle in some of the liquid from the casserole to thin the sauce, mix well, then stir all into the casserole, blending liquids thoroughly together.
5) Braising the beef—3½ to 4 hours or longer at 350 degrees
1 lb. (4 to 5 medium) tomatoes, not peeled, but halved, seeded, juiced, and roughly chopped (or a mixture of fresh tomatoes and strained canned tomatoes)
A 3- by 1-inch piece of dried orange peel, or 1 tsp dried pulverized orange peel
Optional Provençal flavoring: 6 to 7 anchovies packed in olive oil, drained, and mashed to a paste
More beef stock if needed
Stir the tomatoes, orange peel, and optional anchovies into the casserole, and more stock, if needed, so that liquid comes ⅔ to ¾ the way up the beef.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME-NOTE: May be prepared in advance to this point; when cool, cover and refrigerate.
Salt to taste
Aluminum foil
Bring to simmer on top of the stove; salt lightly to taste if necessary. Lay the foil over the beef, cover the casserole, and set in lower third of preheated, 350-degree oven.
In about half an hour, check to see that liquid is simmering slowly, not bubbling fast: regulate oven throughout cooking so that liquid remains at a slow but definite simmer. Baste and turn the beef several times during cooking.
Beef is done when a fork pierces it easily, but it must not be cooked so long that it begins to fall apart. Aged, top-quality American beef usually takes 3½ hours; other grades or qualities may take an hour or so longer.
6) Trimming the beef and finishing the sauce
Remove beef from casserole to a board or platter. Cut and discard trussing string, discard fat covering beef (or trim off suet adhering to beef and the gristle under it); trim off any loose bits of meat.
Remove bones from casserole, then pour contents of casserole through a sieve set over a large saucepan; press juices out of ingredients and into saucepan with a wooden spoon. Discard contents of sieve. Let liquid settle a few minutes in saucepan, then skim off all surface fat with a spoon; bring liquid back to the simmer, skimming off additional fat. Taste very carefully for seasoning and strength. You should have 4 to 5 cups of richly fragrant sauce, deep reddish brown, and the consistency of a lightly thickened soup that would coat the meat nicely, and coats the spoon. If you feel sauce should be thicker or lacks depth of flavor, boil it down rapidly to concentrate it. If it seems necessary, add and simmer a pinch of herbs, garlic, or tomato paste or a little concentrated bouillon. (If sauce has reduced too much during braising, thin out with more stock or water.)
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: You may complete recipe to this point; return beef to casserole and pour the sauce over it. Cover and keep warm, basting occasionally, in a 150-degree oven or upon 2 asbestos mats over low heat on top of the stove. For serving several hours or 2 days later, let cool, then cover and refrigerate; reheat for half an hour or so, basting and turning meat several times, in a 325-degree oven.
7) Serving
CARVING AT THE TABLE. Place the meat on a warm platter, spoon a little of the hot sauce over it to glaze its surface. Decorate platter with sprigs of parsley or watercress. Pass separately the rest of the sauce and whatever vegetables you are serving.
SERVING THE MEAT SLICED, ON A PLATTER. Carve the meat in the kitchen and arrange in overlapping slices on a warm, slightly buttered platter. Spoon some of the sauce around the meat, and decorate platter with parsley or watercress, or with whatever vegetable garnish you wish. Pass rest of sauce and other vegetables separately.
Leftovers
Leftovers, whether sliced or not, may be reheated in the sauce, if any is left over, or in another sauce with the same flavorings. See also the tous nus, and the list of stuffings, both calling for ground leftover braised beef.
To serve cold
A delicious salade de boeuf à la parisienne is made with cold braised beef in Volume I, page 543, or an aspic, boeuf mode en gelée, again in Volume I, on page 556.
VARIATIONS
Boeuf en Caisse, Surprise
[Stuffed, Braised Pot Roast of Beef—Beef Case]
Like that present for the man who has everything, this is an enjoyable conceit for the cook who has cooked everything who wants to surprise guests who have eaten everything. A splendid piece of beef comes to the table looking like a typical boeuf mode. But no, it is not. When the host begins to serve, it is revealed that the beef was ingeniously hollowed out before braising, filled with a fragrant garniture of onions, mushrooms, olives, and herbs, and these slowly imparted their flavors to the meat while it cooked. You might accompany this with the purée of yellow squash and white beans, or the purée of rice and turnips with herbs and garlic. Either a plainly cooked green vegetable or broiled tiny tomatoes might also be included, and the red wine choices would again be Burgundy, Côtes-du-Rhône, or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
For 8 to 10 people
1) Forming the beef case
A solid, boneless 6- to 7-lb. piece of braising beef, preferably loaf shaped (top round, face rump, or bottom round)
Trim all fat and gristle from outside of meat and cut off any protruding pieces, to make a neat shape. (The loaf shape illustrated is easiest to stuff and to carve, but a thick wedge will do.)
White string
Rendered pork fat, goose fat, or cooking oil
A heavy, 12-inch frying pan (no-stick recommended)
Meat is now to be browned, because it is easier to do so now than later; dry thoroughly in paper towels, and make several firm ties around its length and circumference, to hold its shape. Heat fat or oil in pan to very hot but not smoking, and brown meat on all sides and the two ends. Remove meat to a cutting board and discard trussing string. (If browning fat has burned, discard it, otherwise leave in pan for Step 2.)
The first step is to make the cover: starting at one end of what you have decided is the topside of the beef, cut an even slice ½ inch thick to within ½ inch at the other end, where slice remains attached like the cover of a book.
Bend the cover back. In the main body of the meat, cut a rectangular incision 1 inch deep and ½ inch from outside edges. |
Make lengthwise and crosswise cuts 1 inch deep and about ¾ inch apart, to form cubes. |
Cut out cubes of meat with scissors or with a knife. You now have a hinged case of beef with probably 2 inches of solid meat at the bottom, ½ inch at the sides, and an inch of hollow space underneath the cover. |
2) The mushroom and olive garniture or filling—for about 2 cups
The cubes of beef removed from the case
The frying pan from Step 1, and more fat or oil as needed
A mixing bowl
1½ cups (about 6 ounces) quartered fresh mushrooms, washed and dried
2 cups sliced onions
¼ cup mild-cured ham (or supermarket ham slice) cut into ¼-inch dice
1 to 2 large cloves mashed garlic
4 medium-sized black, oil-cured olives, pitted and diced
½ tsp thyme
1 egg
Pepper and salt
Cut the beef cubes so all are approximately ⅜ inch across; dry in paper towels. Heat fat or oil in pan until very hot but not smoking; rapidly brown beef cubes, tossing and turning them for several minutes, shaking and swirling the pan by its handle. When browned, scoop into bowl, leaving fat in pan. Add more fat or oil, if necessary, to film pan by 1⁄16 inch, and brown the mushrooms, tossing and turning for several minutes over high heat. Scoop into bowl; add the onions to the pan with a little more fat or oil if needed. Turn heat to low, stir up onions, cover pan, and cook slowly for 8 to 10 minutes until tender; raise heat, and stir for 2 to 3 minutes until onions are very lightly browned. Scoop into the mixing bowl, stirring in also the ham, garlic, diced olives, herbs, and egg. Season to taste, but be careful of salt because olives are salty.
White string
Either a sheet of pork fat ¼ inch thick and large enough to cover top and sides of beef;
Or caul fat;
Or well-washed cheesecloth
Sprinkle interior of beef case with salt and pepper, heap in the garniture, and turn the hinged cover down to enclose it.
Make 1 or 2 loops of string around length of beef and enough around circumference to hold cover securely in place over garniture. |
Either drape the fat over the beef and tie in place with string, or wrap and tie the entire case in caul fat or a double thickness of damp cheesecloth.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be completed to this point as much as a day in advance; wrap in plastic and refrigerate.
4) Braising the beef—3 to 4 hours
Because the beef has already been browned, you need only follow the general method outlined for the preceding daube with its brown roux, here, or the simpler braising method for the beef stew here with its beurre-manié sauce thickening.
5) Serving
Unless the beef is carved and served at the table, there will be no surprise. After removing strings and other extraneous matter, place beef on a hot platter, spoon a little of the sauce over it, and decorate platter with vegetables or parsley. To serve, pry cover loose and lift it, so that the garniture may be admired, then replace and cut straight through the meat as though it were a loaf of bread. Heap the garniture of mushrooms, olives, and beef cubes over each serving, and moisten with a big spoonful of sauce.
HOW TO LARD A PIECE OF MEAT
In the old days, when meat was tougher and far leaner than it is today, and when venison and game were plentiful, strips of pork fat were inserted through it to baste and moisten the interior of the meat during cooking. Now meat is larded more often because it is the stylish thing to do, and the bits of pork fat, ham, or whatever has been inserted make attractive designs when the meat is sliced.
Larding fat—pork fat and beef suet
The best fat to use is fresh pork fatback because it is hard and smooth. If you cannot find it, use blanched fat bacon or salt pork, or fat from the outside of a fresh pork loin. (If you do not wish to use pork fat, substitute suet from the outside of a rib or loin of beef.) Cut the fat into whatever length and width will fit your larding needle, making a test piece first to be sure you will have a snug fit; chill the fat for easy handling.
The larding process
In order to lard meat you must have a larding needle, or lardoire, a hollow tube or trough of steel shaped like a giant steel pen point with a wooden handle. Starting just back from the point, press the strip of fat down into the trough of the lardoire, being sure fat fits snugly so that it will not slip out when the lardoire is pushed through the meat.
Meat is larded with strips of fat running parallel to the grain, so that when the meat is sliced you will cut across the strips of fat. Insert point of lardoire into one end of meat, and with a continuous, slow, clockwise rotation, push the instrument gradually through until point of lardoire and ½ inch of fat protrude from the other end of the meat. |
With the point of a small knife, gently dig end of fat-strip out of trough at protruding end of lardoire. |
Then dig other end of fat-strip out of trough at the other end of the lardoire. |
Hold the thumb of your left hand in the trough of the lardoire against the fat-strip, thus preventing fat from slipping out of meat while you slowly, with a slight rocking rotation left and right, withdraw the lardoire from the meat leaving the fat in its place. |
Insert as many other fat-strips as you wish—a piece of meat 4½ to 5 inches in diameter will take 4 to 6. Tie the meat into shape with strong white string. |
BEEF TENDERLOIN
Filet de Boeuf
The central and the right-hand sections together, in this drawing, constitute what is usually meant in American retail meat markets by a whole tenderloin: to be technically correct, it should be called the whole short-loin tenderloin. It weighs 4½ to 5 pounds untrimmed, and contains 3½ to 4 pounds of usable meat. When you are serving 6 to 8 people, you may wish the central section only, le coeur du filet, which will give you a roast of 2½ to 3 pounds that averages 8 to 10 inches in length. For 10 to 12 people you will need the whole piece, and may fold the last 2 inches of the tail (right-hand side) back upon itself as illustrated further on, to make a 12-inch roast that is 3½ to 4 inches in diameter when tied.
If by chance your market does cut whole sides of beef, you may be able to buy the whole tenderloin with butt end attached. Depending on the cutting method, the butt alone contains only a little over 1½ pounds of usable meat, although it weighs slightly more than 3 pounds; to be deprived of it, therefore, is no great loss, tenderloins costing what they do.
TRIMMING A TENDERLOIN
Most meat markets will usually trim, tie, and lard the tenderloin for you, but you should be able to do it yourself so that you will know how the meat is constructed.
When you have an untrimmed tenderloin in front of you, you will note a definite difference in the 2 long, flat sides. On one there is a series of thick ridges and depressions more or less marbled with fat depending on the grade of the beef carcass; this side is where the filet rested against the 6 vertebrae of the backbone in the small of the back. We shall call this the underside. The other side, which we shall call the top, will have some loose fat clinging to it, mostly at the large end and at the edges; along the central length you will see the main muscle of the tenderloin, covered with a shiny membrane. Starting on this side, rather gingerly pull the loose fat from the top of the membrane and along the edges, being very careful not to detach the 2 long straps of meat lying against each side of the main muscle. The smaller of the two straps is flattish, as though it were a flaplike continuation of the underside; underneath the larger of the straps, la chainette, is a line of fat that should not be disturbed because it attaches the meat to the main muscle.
This is the whole short-loin tenderloin (central and right-hand portions of diagram), showing the 2 chains of meat attached to the length of the main muscle. Do not worry too much if you partially detach them; you are going to tie the meat anyway before roasting, and the ties will make the chains adhere. Although some people advise removing these chains of meat, you will diminish your roast by more than half its weight if you do so: you will end up with 2 thin strings of meat good only for sautéing or skewering, and your filet proper will weigh only 2 pounds. This is entirely a matter of your own preference, of course; we leave them on.
After pulling excess fat from the top of the meat, you must also remove the shiny membrane that covers the main muscle on this side, and as much of it on the large chain of meat as you easily can. Remove the membrane in half-inch strips the length of the meat, scraping under it with a small, sharp knife. (If you happen to have an actual whole tenderloin with butt included, you will notice that the main muscle with its membrane continues into the butt for several inches before it loses itself. You may wish to separate this main muscle from the rest, making it a continuation of your roast. The surrounding meat will make excellent steaks or sautés. It is rather a question of how it looks to you while you are trimming: as long as all the membranes are removed, all of the meat is good either for roasting or sautéing.)
Finally, inspect the underside of the meat and remove what you consider to be obviously excess fat; a reasonable amount left on will help to baste the meat as it roasts. Meat is now trimmed and ready for cooking. The following directions are for roasting; directions for steaks are in Volume I, pages 291 and 296–300. Do not forget the sautés of beef, Volume I, pages 325–8, which are delicious for meat from the butt, the chains, and the tail; you may also adapt sautés for any leftover cooked tenderloin.
TYING AND LARDING THE TENDERLOIN
Whether it is roasted or braised, and whether you are using the heart (central section) or the whole tenderloin, the circumference must be tied to keep the meat together and to force it into cylindrical rather than oval shape for even cooking. Use the rather thick, soft, white butcher’s string, often called corned-beef twine, if you can find it. The top of the meat is the side formerly covered by a shiny membrane, as opposed to the ridged side, which rested against the back bone.
When you are roasting the whole tenderloin, turn the last 2 inches of the tail back under its ridged side to make the roast even in diameter throughout its length. |
When you wish to tie the meat without larding it, tie or wind firm loops of string around the circumference at 1¼-inch intervals. |
To lard and tie the meat, drape pork fat or suet over the top of the meat and down under the folded tail to hold it in place. Tie a loop of string around the length of the meat. (If you do not have long strips of fat, overlap short ones as shown in the illustrations.) |
Then arrange strips of fat over the sides of the meat; tie loops of string around the circumference. |
If you can find or order caul fat, that marvelous membrane webbed with fat that comes from inside the pig, it is perfect for wrapping a tenderloin that is roasted with a covering of mushroom duxelles or mirepoix, or for the sliced, stuffed tenderloin. Here the tenderloin is laid on the caul fat and the flavoring is being spread over it. |
Fold a double thickness of caul fat around the meat to enclose it completely, and tie in place. The caul fat browns and tends to merge with the meat and stuffing. |
FILET DE BOEUF POÊLÉ
[Tenderloin of Beef, Casserole-roasted with Aromatic Vegetables]
A favorite roasting method that comes to us from the old classic cuisine is poêlage, meaning to brown the meat and then roast it in a covered casserole with les aromates. This is particularly successful with beef tenderloin because the aromatic ingredients, even though their contact with the meat is brief, subtly enhance its flavor and aroma. In addition, you have a deliciously flavored base for the sauce. Because internal meat temperature rises very quickly when beef is done in a covered roaster, watch it carefully after your meat thermometer reaches 110 degrees. (Make a guess if your thermometer starts at 130 degrees.)
Suggested Accompaniments: A garnish of watercress and sautéed mushrooms around the meat, and endives à la dauphinoise (gratin of endives and sliced potatoes); red Bordeaux-Médoc wine.
For 10 to 12 people
A tenderloin of beef, 3½ to 4 lbs., trimmed and tied
Olive oil or cooking oil
A heavy 12-inch frying pan (an oval “fish fryer” is ideal for this)
A heavy, oval, flameproof casserole just large enough to hold beef (such as 12 by 9 inches)
Salt and pepper
½ cup sliced onions
½ cup sliced carrots
1 bay leaf, broken
½ tsp thyme
A piece of fresh pork fat or suet 12 by 9 inches and ¼ inch thick
2½ cups veal stock or beef bouillon
A cover for the casserole
Dry the beef thoroughly on paper towels. Film the pan with ⅛ inch of oil and set over moderately high heat. When very hot but not smoking, brown beef lightly on all sides, season with salt and pepper, and place in casserole. Brown the vegetables lightly in the same fat, season, stir in the herbs, and strew the vegetables over, under, and around the beef. Drape the fat over the meat. Spoon oil out of frying pan, pour in bouillon and boil for a moment, scraping up any coagulated cooking juices. Pour liquid into a cup and reserve for Step 3.
2) Roasting the beef—35 to 45 minutes in a preheated 375-degree oven
At least an hour before serving, cover casserole and set over moderately high heat until beef is sizzling, then place in middle level of a preheated oven. Turn and baste beef once in 15 minutes, and rearrange fat on top. Meat is done to very rare at 125 degrees on a meat thermometer and to medium rare at 130; juices will run rosy red when meat is pricked, and roast will feel slightly springy rather than squashy (like raw beef) when pressed. Set beef on a warm platter and leave at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes while finishing sauce.
3) Sauce
Optional: 1 medium tomato
The bouillon from Step 1
½ Tb cornstarch blended in a cup with ¼ cup dry port wine or vermouth
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
A hot sauce boat
Tip casserole and skim most of fat off cooking juices; bring to the boil. Chop optional tomato and add to casserole along with the bouillon. Boil slowly for 4 to 5 minutes to concentrate flavor. Remove from heat, stir in cornstarch and wine mixture, and bring to the simmer. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes until sauce turns from cloudy to clear. Carefully correct seasoning. Just before serving, remove from heat and beat in the butter, a tablespoon at a time. Strain into sauce boat, pressing juices out of vegetables.
Cut and discard trussing strings, and arrange beef on hot platter with whatever vegetables or garnish you have chosen. Pour several spoonsful of sauce over the beef to glaze it, and serve at once. (If beef is to be carved in the kitchen, place on a carving board that will collect juices; rapidly cut meat into slices ½ inch thick and rearrange on warm platter with garnish around them. Pour carving juices over meat, and pass sauce separately.)
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you cannot serve immediately, remove strings but do not carve meat; after it has rested 10 to 15 minutes and the sauce is made except for the final butter enrichment, return meat to casserole and baste with the sauce. Set cover askew and place either over barely simmering water or in an oven no hotter than 120 degrees. Meat can stay thus for a good hour before serving.
VARIATIONS
Tenderloin Baked in a Cloak of Mushrooms or of Matignon
To give the meat more flavor, you may either slice it and re-form with a stuffing between each slice as in the beef en feuilletons, or you may use that same mushroom stuffing but spread it over the whole filet as illustrated. In this second case, however, you must have caul fat to hold the mushrooms in place. Rather than mushrooms, you may wish to use the matignon of diced cooked carrots, onions, celery, ham, and wine in Volume I, page 303. In any case, when the meat is wrapped, brown it as described in the preceding recipe, and casserole-roast it in exactly the same way.
Filet de Boeuf à la Bourgeoise
[Tenderloin of Beef with Onions, Mushrooms, and Olives]
Whether casserole-roasted, plain roasted, or braised, a filet of beef surrounded with onions, mushrooms, and green olives is as attractive to look at as it is to eat. The garniture is cooked in advance, and simmers in the sauce to blend flavors before being arranged around the beef; you may wish to add sautéed potatoes to the platter, or the zucchini timbale. Cook the filet and prepare the sauce as in the preceding Master Recipe, or braise it with or without a stuffing as described in Volume I, page 303. Prepare the garniture as follows:
1) Preparing the garniture
the small onions:
1 lb. (2 cups) small white onions about 1 inch in diameter
A saucepan of boiling water
A 6- to 7-inch frying pan or saucepan (no-stick recommended)
2 Tb butter and 2 tsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch thyme
½ cup bouillon
A cover for the pan
Drop onions in boiling water, bring rapidly back to boil, and boil 1 minute. Drain, and refresh in cold water. Shave off 2 ends and peel onions; pierce a cross ⅓ inch deep in root ends. Heat butter and oil in pan; when foam is subsiding add onions and sauté over moderately high heat to brown lightly. Reduce heat, add rest of ingredients, cover, and simmer very slowly for 20 to 30 minutes, or until onions are tender when pierced with a knife. Set aside with cooking juices.
the mushrooms:
½ lb. (1 quart) fresh mushrooms
2 Tb butter and 2 tsp olive oil
An 8-inch frying pan (no-stick recommended)
2 Tb minced shallots or scallions
Salt and pepper to taste
Trim and wash the mushrooms; dry in a towel and cut into quarters. Heat butter and oil in pan until foam is subsiding, add mushrooms and sauté over high heat, tossing frequently, until mushrooms begin to brown. Reduce heat, add shallots or scallions, and toss a moment more. Season lightly, tossing, and add mushrooms to onions.
the olives:
4 to 5 ounces (1 to 1¼ cups) pitted green olives, medium size, about ¾ inch long
2 quarts simmering water in a saucepan
Drain and wash the olives; drop into simmering water. Simmer 10 minutes, to remove excess saltiness. Drain, rinse in cold water, and add to onions and mushrooms.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Garniture may be prepared in advance.
2) Serving
The cooked filet of beef and its 2½ cups or so of sauce
The onions, mushrooms, and olives
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
When the beef is done and the sauce is made, add the onions, mushrooms, and olives to the sauce and simmer 3 to 4 minutes to blend flavors. (If meat is being held in casserole, return sauce and garniture to it.) To serve, place meat on platter, and dip out the onions, mushrooms, and olives with a slotted spoon, arranging them around the beef. Beat the enrichment butter into the sauce a tablespoon at a time, spoon a little over the beef to glaze it and pour the rest of the sauce into a warm gravy boat. Serve, along with whatever other vegetables you may have chosen.
Filet de Boeuf en Feuilletons, Duxelles
[Tenderloin of Beef Sliced, Stuffed with Mushrooms and Roasted]
By slicing the raw tenderloin, seasoning each slice, and spreading it with wine-flavored mushroom duxelles and then re-forming the roast, you will have a deliciously flavored tenderloin that practically serves itself. For this you should have as long a piece of the main tenderloin muscle as possible with no under-turning tail, so that you will have large slices. (Drawings and discussion of tenderloin are at the beginning of this section.)
For 16 slices ½ inch thick, serving 8 to 10
1) The duxelles stuffing—for 1½ to 1⅔ cups
1 lb. (2 quarts) fresh mushrooms
A heavy-bottomed 8-inch frying pan (no-stick recommended)
3 Tb butter
¼ cup minced shallots or scallions
⅓ cup finely minced mild-cured ready-cooked ham
1½ Tb flour
⅓ cup dry Madeira (Sercial)
⅓ cup block foie gras, liver paste, or very finely minced cooked ham fat
1 egg yolk
½ tsp dried tarragon
Salt and pepper to taste
Trim and wash mushrooms. Cut into 1⁄16-inch dice, using either a big knife or the vegetable mincing attachment of an electric mixer or a food mill if you wish. Twist a handful at a time in the corner of a towel to extract as much juice as possible. Heat butter to foaming in frying pan, stir in mushrooms, shallots or scallions, and ham. Sauté over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until mushroom pieces begin to separate and start to brown lightly (5 minutes or so). Sprinkle in the flour and stir over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, blend in the wine, and stir again over heat for 1 minute. Remove from heat, beat in foie gras, liver paste, or fat, the egg yolk, tarragon, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
2) Stuffing and tying the filet of beef
The heart of the tenderloin, 8 to 10 inches long and as even in diameter as possible (2½ lbs. or more)
A double thickness of well-washed damp cheesecloth large enough to envelop beef. (See also notes on caul fat.)
Salt and pepper
A tray and a pastry brush
Rendered goose fat, pork fat or cooking oil
The duxelles stuffing
White string
With a very sharp knife, cut the meat into 16 even slices, each about ½ inch thick, setting them aside in the order in which you cut them. Lay the cheesecloth on the tray and paint with fat or cooking oil. Salt and pepper each slice, spread with a tablespoon and a half of stuffing, and re-form the roast, arranging the slices against each other on the cheesecloth. Tie one loop of string around the length of the re-formed roast to hold the slices against each other, then stretch the cheesecloth tightly over the meat to enclose it. Twist each end of the cheesecloth closely against each end of the meat; tie securely with string. Then twist a tight spiral of string around the circumference from one end to the other and back again, so that meat will keep its shape. It will look like a fat sausage about 12 inches long and 4 inches in diameter.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: When stuffed, tied, wrapped in plastic, and refrigerated a day before roasting, it will pick up added flavor.
3) Browning and cover-roasting the beef—at least 1 hour before serving
Brown the beef and the aromatic vegetables that accompany it as described in the Master Recipe, Step 1. (It will brown perfectly well in its cheesecloth covering.) Roast, as directed in Step 2, counting 30 to 40 minutes and leaving the meat red-rare (125 degrees on a meat thermometer). Remove from casserole as soon as it is done, and leave at room temperature for 15 minutes while finishing the sauce described in Step 3.
4) Serving
Set beef on hot serving platter and cut string and cheesecloth, carefully pulling them out from around and under the meat (15 minutes rest will have drawn slices of meat together). Spoon enough sauce over meat to glaze it nicely, arrange around it whatever garnish you have chosen, and serve, passing rest of sauce separately. Server need only spread top of meat apart with large fork and spoon to show location of each slice, which is then served with its share of duxelles stuffing.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Use the same system as in the Master Recipe, but do not untie meat until just before serving.
Filet de Boeuf en Croûte
[Tenderloin of Beef Baked in Pastry—Beef Wellington Brioché]
We do not know whether the English, the Irish, or the French baked the first filet of beef in a crust, but we can be certain that the French would not have named it after Wellington. It is a remarkably handsome, sumptuous dish when properly made. Most good recipes specify a whole piece of tenderloin that is preroasted 25 minutes, cooled, surrounded with a mushroom and foie gras stuffing, then wrapped in French puff pastry and baked. We think it a great improvement to substitute brioche dough for puff pastry: fully risen brioche dough is deflated, thoroughly chilled, then rolled thin, draped over the meat and baked immediately before the dough has a chance to rise again. The resulting crust is beautiful to look at as well as being light, thin, cooked all the way through and delicious to eat; this is never the case with puff pastry, which cannot bake properly under such circumstances and is always damply dumpling under its handsome exterior. Another improvement is to bake the tenderloin in slices with stuffing in between, as in the preceding recipe: the serving is easy and the taste is vastly improved.
VEGETABLE AND WINE SUGGESTIONS
An important dish like this should be surrounded with few distractions; we would suggest only something green and fresh like buttered new peas or green beans, broccoli flowerettes, or, in season, sliced, fresh, green asparagus spears tossed in butter. Again, a fine red Bordeaux-Médoc would be an excellent choice of wine.
THE SAUCE
Anything as extravagant as this filet de boeuf demands an unusually good sauce. We suggest 2 to 3 cups of the brown sauce or the sauce ragoût in Volume I, pages 67 and 69, simmered several hours for maximum flavor; it will then be further enriched with the cooking juices and deglazing wine from the beef, Step 1 in the following recipe.
For 16 slices of beef ½ inch thick, serving 8 to 10
1) Preliminaries—to do in the morning or the day before serving
½ the recipe for pain brioché dough (½ lb. flour)
One of the brown sauces described in preceding paragraph
2½ to 3 lbs. of the heart of the tenderloin, sliced, stuffed, wrapped and tied (filet de boeuf en feuilletons, Steps 1 and 2)
Rendered goose or pork fat, or cooking oil
A shallow roasting pan
½ cup dry port wine or Sercial Madeira
Prepare the dough as described, letting it finish its second rise in the refrigerator. Then deflate it, cover with plastic wrap, a plate, and a 5-pound weight (pieces of meat grinder) so that it will not rise again; refrigerate. Make the brown-sauce base and refrigerate. Prepare the stuffed filet as described, baste well with fat or oil, and place in roasting pan. Preheat oven to 425 degrees, and set rack in upper-third level. Roast the beef for 25 minutes, basting and turning it several times. Transfer beef to a platter or tray (reserve roasting pan) and let meat cool to room temperature. (If you are preroasting a day ahead, cover and refrigerate the meat after it has cooled, but set at room temperature for 2 hours before final baking in Step 3, for accurate timing.) Spoon fat out of roasting pan, pour in wine and boil down by half, scraping up any roasting juices with a wooden spoon; scrape liquid into the sauce base.
2) Enclosing beef in brioche—1 to 1½ hours before serving, and just before roasting
The cool, room-temperature, preroasted beef
Heavy shears
The chilled brioche dough
Flour, a rolling surface, a rolling pin, a ravioli wheel, a small knife
An oiled jelly-roll pan or pizza tray (raised edges needed to catch roasting juices)
Egg glaze (1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water in a small bowl)
A pastry brush
Optional: a meat thermometer
Preheat oven to 425 degrees and slide rack onto lower-middle level. Set out all the equipment and ingredients listed. Cut wrapping and string from beef. Working rapidly from now on so that brioche dough softens as little as possible, roll ¼ of the dough into a rectangle ¼ inch thick and the length and width of the beef. Roll it up on your pin and unroll it onto the oiled pan.
Its most attractive side up, place the beef on the rectangle of dough. Trim off excess dough from around the beef. |
Roll the remaining dough into a rectangle ¼ inch thick and large enough to enclose beef (probably 18 by 8 inches), roll it up on your pin and unroll over the beef. |
Trim off any excess dough and reserve for decorations. Tuck the covering dough against the bottom rectangle of dough and under bottom of meat, sealing edges with your fingers. Paint dough covering with egg glaze; in a moment paint with a second coat.
So that any decorations on the crust will show after baking, they must be either deep cuts with raised edges, or dough paste-ons. For instance, you may wish to lay on strips of leftover dough in a design, and paint with egg glaze. |
Decorate blank spaces by cutting into surface of dough with scissors, a knife, or the metal end of a pastry tube, making definite edges that stick up. (Cuts are made after glazing, so that the cut portion of the dough will remain pale, accenting the design when dough is baked.)
Immediately the decorations are complete, set beef in oven. The object here is to make sure the dough remains a crust, a thin and crisp covering; if it rises, it will be thick and bready.
3) Baking—30 to 40 minutes
Bake in lower-middle level of preheated 425-degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until pastry has browned nicely. Lower thermostat to 350 degrees for rest of baking, and cover crust loosely with a sheet of foil or brown paper if it seems to be browning too much. Indications that the meat is done are that you can begin to smell the beef and the stuffing, and that juices begin to escape into the pan; meat thermometer reading for rare beef is 125 degrees.
4) Serving and ahead-of-time notes
A hot platter or a board wide enough to hold beef and removed top crust
A flexible-blade spatula
A hot sauce in a warmed bowl
The hot accompanying vegetable
Serving implements: a sharp knife for cutting the crust, and a serving spoon and fork
When beef is done, remove from oven and slide onto platter or board. Beef will stay warm for 20 minutes; if you still cannot serve it, set in a warming oven no hotter than 120 degrees.
To serve, cut all around the crust and half an inch up from its bottom. Lift the top crust off onto the platter, and cut into serving portions. Separate the slices of meat with spoon and fork and cut down through the bottom crust so that each slice is served with a portion of stuffing and crust. Spoon a little sauce around the meat, and add a piece of the top crust.
LAMB
Agneau et Mouton
The French take great pride in their lamb and the marvelous quality of their mutton. While we do not easily find the little spring lambs of France in this country, nor the mutton, we are fortunate to have our own type of lamb, of the very finest quality and flavor, throughout the year. Many Americans are so wedded to beef that they forget about lamb, and this is a pity, because a fine leg of lamb roasted red and juicy is a feast for any meat lover. Although we thought we had covered a great deal in Volume I, with lamb stew, roasts in mustard coatings, garlic sauces, and even a boiled leg of lamb, there is more to tell. We now add full instructions on boning the leg, step-by-step illustrated directions on how to carve the saddle like a major-domo, a recipe for stuffed and braised shoulder, and complete drawings on how to make a gigot farci en croûte.
HOW TO BONE A LEG OF LAMB
A fully or partially boned leg of lamb is easy to carve, and you can stuff the cavities where the bones used to be. If only the tail and hip assembly has been removed from the raw meat, that alone is a great help to the carver, and when the main leg bone is also gone, carving is no problem at all. To show that it really is a leg of lamb you are serving, leave the shank bone in unless you want a rolled leg for spit roasting. Although most butchers will cut out the tail and hip for you, they may not want to take the time for a careful boning of the main leg portion. If you enjoy working with your hands, do all the boning yourself and you will learn more about meat and carving, because you will become familiar with the bones, their shapes, and their positions.
Furnish yourself with two stout-bladed, very sharp knives, one small and one larger. Always keeping the knife blade against the bone, scrape all around against the complicated structure of the tail-hip assembly, disfiguring the meat as little as possible, until you are able to cut the tendons that join the hip to the ball joint of the main leg bone, thus releasing the hip.
To remove the main leg bone, cut around its exposed ball joint buried in the thick end of the meat. Loosen flesh all around and down the bone inside the meat until you come to its opposite ball joint at the knee. You now have two choices, one easier and the other longer but cleverer. The easiest way to remove the bone is to slit the underside of the meat at the knee to expose the bones; making as small a hole outside as possible, cut around knee joint, sever tendons, and draw the bone out from the large end of the meat. Close the meat neatly at the knee by sewing or skewering. The longer maneuver is to get the bone without piercing the skin at the knee. By persistent poking and cutting around the bone inside the meat at the joint, by twisting the bone, by turning the meat inside out around the bone as far down as you can for better visibility, you will finally be able to free it from the tendons attaching it to the knee and pull the bone out.
The flap of meat that contained the hip and tail, at the large end of the leg, is called the sirloin. You may slice it off and use at another meal for roasting, steaks, or shishkebob, or you may grind part of it for stuffing back into the leg as suggested in the following recipe. (If you wish to leave the flap on, skewer it against the main body of the leg after stuffing.)
With the sirloin off, you have what is known as a short (or Frenched) leg of lamb. (For gigot farci en croûte, this is what you need.) |
Either fill the pocket with stuffing, pushing it well down into all spaces left by the bones, or sprinkle in a flavoring of salt, pepper, minced parsley, a clove of minced garlic, and a big pinch of rosemary or thyme.
Whether filled or not, close the pocket with skewers and string.
RECIPES FOR BONED LEG OF LAMB
You may proceed with the recipe for gigot farci en croûte, or you may roast the boned, stuffed, and skewered leg of lamb just as it is, following the Master Recipe in Volume I, page 332; it is also delicious roasted with the herbal mustard coating also in Volume I, on page 335. After the roast has rested 15 to 20 minutes out of the oven, the meat will have settled into place and you can remove the string and skewers. To carve, cut down in bias (diagonal) slices across the grain, first from one side of the large end, then from the other; if the first few slices contain no stuffing, set aside for second helpings. When you come to the thinner portion of the meat nearer the shank, you can cut straight across.
GIGOT FARCI, EN CROÛTE
[Boned, Stuffed Lamb Baked in Pastry]
At least one great French provincial restaurant has made its reputation on gigot farci en croûte, and any home cook who has mastered French puff pastry or brioche dough can make this splendidly dramatic presentation every bit as well. The recipe consists of the boned and stuffed leg of lamb, illustrated in the preceding pages, which is first roasted in a very hot oven until partially cooked, then draped in pastry, decorated with pastry cutouts, glazed, and set back in the oven again to cook and brown the crust. Although you have to watch your timing on this so as not to overcook the lamb, it is reasonably amenable to delays as indicated by the asterisks (*) at the end of most of the steps in the recipe. Do go over it well before starting in, so that you will have a good idea of timing and of stopping points. We suggest that you make the pastry dough the day before serving. You might also bone the lamb, prepare the stuffing, and simmer the sauce called for in Step 7; the actual cooking will then be much simplified.
Even though you have the crust, there is not much of it per serving and you may also wish a potato dish such as the scalloped potatoes, gratin dauphinois, in Volume I on page 523, the gratin with cheese and cream following it, or the unusual potato and endive gratin. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, buttered spinach, or fresh green peas might also be included. This gigot naturally calls for the best in wines, giving you an opportunity to bring out your finest, château-bottled, red Bordeaux-Saint-Émilion.
THE CRUST, AND PUFF PASTRY VERSUS BRIOCHE DOUGH
Although puff pastry is traditional, it never quite cooks through when it covers rare-roasted meat, while brioche dough, if it is not allowed its final rise before baking, will form a crisp, brown crust. This question is discussed in the preamble to Beef Wellington, where you have the same choice.
For 10 to 12 people
1) Boning the lamb
An 8- to 9-lb. leg of lamb (5 to 6 lbs. boned and minus sirloin)
Following illustrated directions preceding this recipe, remove tail and hip bones, main leg bone, and sirloin meat from leg of lamb. (If you are going to make the brown sauce suggested for Step 7, start it now, using the bones and scraps from the lamb.)
½ lb. (4 cups) fresh mushrooms
2 Tb butter and 1 Tb olive oil or cooking oil (more of each if needed)
A medium (10-inch) frying pan (no-stick recommended)
4 fine, fresh lamb kidneys, peeled and minced
3 Tb finely minced shallots or scallions
¼ cup port, Madeira, or Cognac
⅛ tsp each of ground thyme and rosemary
½ cup ground raw lamb (from the removed piece of sirloin)
¼ cup foie gras or mousse de foie (canned goose liver or liver mousse)
Optional but recommended: 1 or 2 minced truffles and their juice
Salt and pepper to taste
If needed: 2 or more Tb stale, not-too-fine crumbs from nonsweetened, homemade-type bread
Trim, wash, and dry the mushrooms. Chop into a fine mince with a big knife; a handful at a time, twist into a tight ball in the corner of a towel to extract as much juice as possible. Heat butter and oil in pan, and when butter foam has begun to subside, add the mushrooms. Sauté over moderately high heat, stirring, for several minutes, until mushroom pieces begin to separate from each other. Stir in the kidneys and shallots, adding a little more butter if you feel it necessary. Sauté, stirring, for 2 minutes, just to stiffen the kidneys. Pour in the wine or Cognac and herbs; boil down rapidly for 1 minute. Remove from heat. Stir in the ground lamb. Mash foie gras or mousse with a fork and stir in also, along with optional truffles and their juice. Season carefully to taste. (If by any chance mixture seems too damp or loose, stir in a tablespoon or so of bread crumbs to hold it together more.)
3) Stuffing, tying, and skewering the lamb
Skewers and white string
Following the illustrated directions, pack the stuffing into the pockets left in the meat by the bones, skewer the large end of the meat, and lace closed with string.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Recipe may be prepared to this point a day in advance. Note also that you may prepare the sauce, Step 7, in advance.
4) Preliminary roasting—30 minutes at 425 degrees, and a 30-minute rest
The stuffed and skewered lamb
A shallow roasting pan with rack
Cooking oil
Optional but recommended: an accurate meat thermometer
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Wipe lamb thoroughly dry with paper towels and brush with cooking oil, especially on exposed lean-meat surfaces. Place on rack in roasting pan and set in upper-middle level of preheated oven. Basting once or twice with oil and turning meat once, roast 25 to 30 minutes, until lamb has swelled slightly and feels a little springy in contrast to its softer raw state. Meat thermometer reading: 120 degrees. Remove lamb from oven but leave string and skewers in place.
(*) RESTING AND AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: Lamb must rest for 30 minutes at least before final cooking, so that meat will draw together and hold stuffing in place. It must also cool off a little bit so that it will not overcook under its pastry, but it must not cool so much that it loses its juicy, freshly cooked character. If you are not ready to continue for some time, you may keep it perfectly for an hour or more anywhere that you can maintain a temperature of around 100 to 110 degrees, such as a warming oven, or the turned-off oven, reheating it for a moment every now and then.
5) Enclosing the lamb in pastry—preheat oven to 450 degrees for next step
Either the recipe for simple puff pastry;
Or the recipe for pain brioché dough, fully risen and ready to bake, but chilled
The still warm leg of lamb
A lightly greased jelly-roll pan, or edged baking sheet
Egg glaze (1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water in a small bowl)
A pastry brush
Optional but recommended: the meat thermometer
Remove string and skewers, and set lamb on pan or baking sheet. It is now to be enclosed in pastry; do so rapidly to prevent dough from softening and, in the case of brioche dough, from rising.
Rapidly roll pastry out into a flattened pear shape ¼ inch thick, 6 inches longer at the large end, and 6 inches wider than the leg of lamb. Starting at large end, unroll or unfold the pastry over the lamb.
Leaving an inch of the shank bone exposed, allow enough pastry to tuck in all around and enclose lamb completely; trim off excess. Push the pastry against the undersides of the meat with your fingers: the bottom of the lamb rests on the pan, and the pastry simply encloses all visible meat. |
Make pastry cutouts with leftover dough, such as long strips ⅜ inch wide cut with a pastry wheel, and 2-inch ovals formed with a fluted cookie cutter. Paint top of covering dough with egg glaze, and press the decorations into place. |
When all decorations are in place, brush surface of dough and decorations with egg glaze. Draw the tines of a table fork over glaze and lightly into dough, to make cross-hatch marks on entire surface. Insert optional meat thermometer where indicated, at a downward-slanting angle from shank so that point of thermometer lodges in the thickest portion of solid meat near large end. Immediately proceed to next step. (Note that if you are using brioche dough, you are not to let it rise; it is to be baked immediately.) |
6) Final baking—25 to 30 minutes at 450 degrees and 400 degrees
Place in middle level of preheated oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until pastry has started to brown nicely; reduce heat to 400 degrees for the final 5 to 10 minutes of baking. Lamb is done to rosy rare at a thermometer reading of 130 degrees, or at the first sign of juices exuding from underside of lamb onto baking sheet. (NOTE: Some prefer lamb rarer, 125 degrees on the thermometer, while others like it medium rare, or around 140 to 145 degrees. Roast the lamb to the thermometer reading you prefer.)
Remove lamb from oven as soon as it is done; carefully lift it, and slide a rack under it so that the juices will not moisten the crust. Lamb should rest 15 to 20 minutes before carving. (When ready to serve, place lamb on platter, and pour any accumulated juices into whatever sauce you have prepared.)
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Lamb will stay warm enough in its crust for 30 minutes; after that return to warming oven or anywhere that you can maintain a temperature of 110 to 120 degrees, where it may remain another half hour at least.
A hot, lightly buttered serving platter or a carving board
Optional but desirable: 3 cups excellent brown sauce made from the lamb bones and meat scraps (Volume I, pages 69–70), in a hot sauce bowl
Transfer lamb to platter or carving board, and pour any roasting juices into sauce. Make a presentation of the gigot, for all to admire. To carve, cut down in bias (diagonal) slices across the grain, first from one side of the large end, then from the other; if the first few slices contain no stuffing, set aside for second helpings. When you come to the thinner portion of the meat nearer the shank, you can cut straight across. Pass sauce separately, along with whatever vegetables you have chosen.
ÉPAULE D’AGNEAU FARCIE, VIROFLAY
[Braised, Stuffed Shoulder of Lamb]
Shoulder of lamb is far less expensive than leg of lamb, usually by at least a third, and is an elegant roast when stuffed and braised. The spinach and mushroom mixture suggested here makes attractive slices, and if you serve the potatoes in basil and whole baked tomatoes, you will have a colorful and fragrant main course. A red Bordeaux-Saint-Émilion would be an excellent choice of wine.
A NOTE ON BONED SHOULDER OF LAMB
Most markets will bone a lamb shoulder for you, or you will find them ready-boned, rolled, and tied; you untie and unroll them for stuffing. Ask also for a pound or so of sawed lamb bones, or for veal or beef bones, to give character to your braising liquid. (Full information on lamb shoulders is in Volume 1, page 330).
For 8 people
1) The mushroom duxelles and spinach stuffing—farce Viroflay
½ lb. (1 quart) fresh mushrooms
1 Tb butter
½ Tb cooking oil
A medium (10-inch) frying pan (no-stick recommended)
Salt and pepper
A 3-quart mixing bowl
Make a duxelles as follows: Trim, wash, and dry the mushrooms, and cut into 1⁄16-inch dice with a large knife. A handful at a time, twist hard in the corner of a towel, to extract as much of their juice as possible. Heat oil and butter to bubbling in pan, add mushrooms, and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until pieces begin to separate from each other, and start to brown very lightly. Stir in salt and pepper to taste, and scrape into mixing bowl.
1½ cups cooked spinach (or a 10-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed in a pan of cold water and drained)
2 Tb butter
3 Tb minced shallots or scallions
A large clove garlic, mashed
Salt and pepper
A handful at a time, squeeze as much water as possible out of the spinach; chop fine with a large stainless-steel knife. Melt the additional butter in the frying pan over moderately high heat, stir in the shallots or scallions, and cook for 1 minute. Then stir in the spinach and garlic, and cook, stirring, for several minutes to evaporate remaining liquid from spinach. When it begins sticking lightly to bottom of pan, remove from heat; season to taste with salt and pepper, and scrape into bowl with mushrooms.
½ cup (1½ ounces) not-too-fine stale crumbs from nonsweetened, homemade-type white bread in a small bowl
2 to 3 Tb stock, bouillon, or milk
⅔ cup (4 ounces) finely diced ham fat, fresh pork fat, or blanched bacon
1 egg
8 to 10 large fresh basil leaves, minced, or ½ tsp fragrant dried basil, thyme, or rosemary
Salt and pepper
Soften the crumbs with the stock, bouillon, or milk and let stand for a few minutes. Beat the ham fat, egg, and herbs into the mushrooms and spinach. Squeeze excess liquid out of crumbs and beat them in too. Taste stuffing very carefully for seasoning.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be done a day in advance; cover and refrigerate.
2) Stuffing the lamb
A 5- to 6-lb. shoulder of lamb, fell intact, all excess fat cut out; bones removed, chopped, and reserved (ready-to-stuff weight about 3½ lbs.)
A trussing needle or skewers
White string
Spread boned shoulder on a board, fell (skin) side down. Tuck stuffing into pockets left by bones, and pile rest of stuffing in a loaf shape down center of meat. Sew or skewer edges of meat together to enclose stuffing completely. (Do not overfill lamb.) Tie into a sausage shape with loops of string at 1-inch intervals around circumference. Dry thoroughly with paper towels before browning, next step.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: When both lamb and stuffing are chilled, the meat may be stuffed a day in advance; wrap and refrigerate.
3) Browning the lamb
2 to 3 Tb rendered pork or goose fat, or cooking oil; more if needed
A heavy, flameproof casserole just large enough to hold lamb comfortably
The chopped lamb bones
A large, sliced onion
A large, sliced carrot
For sauce consistency: A 6-inch square of blanched pork rind, Volume I, page 401, and/or 1 cup chopped veal knuckle bones
Preheat oven to 325 degrees in time for Step 4. Heat fat or oil in casserole to very hot but not smoking, add bones (including optional knuckle bones at end of list) and sliced vegetables; sauté over moderately high heat for 5 to 6 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon to a side dish. Film pan with more fat or oil if necessary, set lamb in it, seam-side down, and brown for several minutes, lifting occasionally with spoon to prevent lamb from sticking. Turn and brown on another side, and continue turning and browning until lamb is nicely colored on all sides and the two ends. Strew the browned bones and vegetables around the meat, and add the optional pork rind.
4) Braising the lamb—2½ hours at 325 degrees
Salt
1 cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
2 or more cups brown stock or bouillon
The following tied in washed cheesecloth: 6 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, ½ tsp thyme, 2 cloves garlic
A piece of waxed paper or foil
Casserole cover
Salt the lamb, add the wine and enough stock or bouillon to come ⅔ the way up the lamb. Bury herb packet in the liquid, and bring casserole to simmer on top of stove. Lay paper or foil over meat, cover casserole, and set in middle level of oven; regulate oven heat so that lamb simmers quietly for 2½ hours. Turn several times during cooking, and baste with liquid in the casserole. Lamb is done when a fork will pierce it fairly easily.
5) Sauce and serving
A hot serving platter
A sieve set over a saucepan
1 Tb cornstarch blended to a paste with 2 Tb wine or stock in a small bowl
A warm sauce bowl
Parsley, watercress, or whatever vegetable garnish you wish
Remove lamb to hot platter. Do not untie yet; cover with waxed paper or foil and set in turned-off oven with door ajar while finishing sauce as follows: Strain braising liquid into saucepan, pressing juices out of ingredients. Skim surface fat off liquid, bring to simmer, skimming off additional fat, and taste carefully for seasoning and strength. Boil down rapidly, if necessary; you should have about 2½ cups. Remove from heat, and beat in starch mixture; return over heat and simmer, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove string and trussings from lamb, pour a spoonful of sauce over the meat to glaze it, and pour rest of sauce into warm bowl. Decorate platter with greenery or vegetables, and serve.
To carve, cut down in bias (diagonal) slices across the grain, first from one side of the short end, then from the other, and spoon a little sauce around the edge of each serving. (If the stuffing does not hold in place, carver should arrange meat attractively around it on plate, for each slice.)
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: If you are not to serve the lamb at once, replace it in the casserole, pour the sauce around, cover loosely, and set in a 120-degree warming oven, or over barely simmering water, where it will keep nicely for at least 30 minutes.
Other stuffings
Other stuffing possibilities are listed, and 6 stuffings specifically for lamb are in Volume I, pages 336–8.
BREAST OF LAMB
Poitrine d’ Agneau
Breast of lamb (the bottom of the rib cage, similar to that of veal) is the most reasonably priced of any cut of meat, and is delicious when boned, stuffed, and braised. However, it must be very carefully peeled, and all the fat from the plate must be cut out, as well as other extraneous fat. If you do find a well-trimmed breast, follow the general system outlined for stuffed breast of veal, using either that stuffing or any of the preceding suggestions for shoulder of lamb.
SADDLE OF LAMB
Selle d’ Agneau
A saddle of lamb is one of the most luxurious and attractive roasts you could pick to serve at a small, elegant dinner party for 4 to 6 people. When you have prepared it for the oven, which is not difficult as you will see from the illustrated directions, you will find it far easier to roast and to carve than a leg of lamb, and absolutely delicious to eat.
HOW TO ORDER A SADDLE OF LAMB
The saddle of lamb is the loin. On a beef carcass it would be the whole porterhouse and T-bone steak section on both sides, and on lamb it is the whole loin-chop area. It is, in fact, a giant butterfly loin chop 8 to 10 inches thick, consisting of the 2 meaty loin strips that run along either side of the backbone on top, and the 2 smaller tenderloin strips that run its length underneath. What would constitute the tail of the chop is the flank, or flap of meat attached to each side.
Because names of meat cuts vary from one part of the country to another, your butcher may understand the term “saddle” to mean the whole loin-hip-leg section of lamb, and he may only know what you mean when you ask him for the double kidney loin. Show him this picture if you have trouble communicating, or point the saddle out to him on yourself. It is equivalent to the small of your back on both sides of the backbone, and includes the front part of you; in other words, it is the whole area from the top of your hip bone to where your ribs begin. Tell him to leave it whole; he is not to saw it in two at the backbone. The choicest saddle will come from a carcass of spring lamb that weighs not more than 45 pounds; the saddle will weigh around 6½ pounds untrimmed, 3½ pounds ready to roast.
FRENCH TERMINOLOGY
You may also have communication problems in France, because the saddle can be called selle d’agneau, selle anglaise, or les deux filets réunis. Again, point it out on yourself if there is any confusion. Their saddle of lamb will be a little smaller than an American one, while a selle de mouton from their excellent mutton will be a little larger and should be well aged, bien rassie.
HOW TO PREPARE A SADDLE OF LAMB FOR ROASTING
This is the way the topside of the saddle will look before the flanks have been trimmed off. Ask that the fell (skin) be removed, which will leave a covering of fat over the top of the meat. Have the thirteenth rib removed also, if attached. |
Remove all excess fat from the underside; this may include the kidneys. The strips of tenderloin meat run parallel to the backbone on either side, and parallel to their outside edge is a partially hidden strip of fat. |
Cut and pull fat out, being careful not to pierce the flanks and make holes in outside covering of meat. Cut off all but about 3 inches of flank, leaving enough on each side for flanks to cover the underside of the backbone.
Shave off all but ⅛-inch layer of covering fat on the topside, and make a criss cross of bias cuts ½ inch apart in the surface, going just down to the flesh. These will help the meat to cook evenly, and make attractive decorations on the crisp, roasted surface later on. |
Sprinkle underside with salt, pepper, and a big pinch of thyme or rosemary, fold flanks against backbone to cover tenderloin strips, and tie circumference of saddle in 3 or more places with white string. If you are not to cook the saddle now, wrap and refrigerate it.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Saddle may be prepared to this point a day before roasting.
SELLE D’AGNEAU RÔTIE
[Roast Saddle of Lamb]
A plain roast saddle of lamb is so good in itself that you need go into no elaborations, although one or two are suggested at the end of this recipe. A classic accompaniment is that crusty, buttery mound of sliced potatoes, pommes Anna, or one of the two variations following it, and either braised lettuce or braised endives. Another suggestion would be eggplant, such as the gratin provençal with its tomatoes and cheese; you would then need only an excellent loaf of homemade French bread. A fine, red Bordeaux-Médoc would be your best choice of wine.
1) Preparations for roasting
A saddle of lamb trimmed, seasoned, and tied according to the preceding directions (4 to 5 lbs. trimmed weight)
A heavy, shallow baking dish just large enough to hold the saddle comfortably
4 Tb melted butter in a pan and a basting brush
½ cup each, sliced carrots and onions
2 large cloves garlic, unpeeled
Optional but recommended: a meat thermometer
Preheat oven to 475 degrees for Step 2. Set saddle right side up in the roasting pan and paint exposed ends of meat with melted butter, reserving rest for later. If you are using a meat thermometer, insert it at a long, slanting angle into the thickest part of one of the loin strips. Be sure point of thermometer reaches middle of meat and does not touch bone. Prepare the vegetables and garlic, and reserve in a bowl for Step 2.
2) Roasting—about 45 minutes—oven preheated to 450 degrees
ROASTING START. Set lamb in upper-middle level of preheated oven for 15 minutes.
15-MINUTE MARK. Turn thermostat down to 425 degrees. Working quickly, baste 2 ends of saddle with melted butter, and strew the vegetables and garlic around the meat. Baste vegetables with fat in baking dish, or with butter.
22-MINUTE MARK. Rapidly baste meat and vegetables again, with fat in dish.
30-MINUTE MARK. Baste again rapidly. If vegetables are blackening, turn thermostat down to 400 degrees.
37-MINUTE MARK. Baste again. If you are using a meat thermometer, it should be at 125 to 130 degrees for rare meat. Meat should feel springy rather than squashy and raw, and the first juices should be exuding from the meat into the pan. Roast a few minutes longer if necessary; if you wish your meat medium rare and pink rather than red, roast to 140 degrees. (Note that if meat was chilled when it went into the oven, it may take a few minutes longer to roast. A heavier saddle will take 50 to 55 minutes in all. Baste every 4 to 5 minutes when roasting longer.)
WHEN DONE. Turn off oven and set lamb on a platter near outside end of open oven door; a rest of 10 to 15 minutes before carving will permit juices to retreat back into meat tissues. Discard trussing strings after the rest period. Meanwhile, make the sauce, next step.
⅓ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
1 cup beef stock or bouillon
Optional: 1 medium tomato, chopped (not peeled)
Salt and pepper
A sieve
A small saucepan
Spoon all but a tablespoon of fat out of roasting dish, pour in wine and stock, and add optional tomato. Set over high heat and boil, scraping up coagulated roasting juices with a wooden spoon; mash cooking vegetables into liquid as it boils. Reduce liquid by about half, correct seasoning, strain into saucepan, and keep warm. You will have only enough sauce to moisten each serving of meat.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you can control the heat, you may leave the finished lamb in a warming oven of no more than 120 degrees for at least half an hour. With your sauce all made, you can then serve immediately.
CARVING AT THE TABLE. If you wish to carve at the table you may follow the system of many maîtres d’hôtel, which is to make long, thin slices on each side, parallel to the backbone. (The first slice, which shaves off the fat, is not served.) Then turn the saddle upside down, cut off the flanks, and reserve for second helpings; cut out the tenderloin strips, and slice into crosswise pieces.
CARVING IN THE KITCHEN AND REASSEMBLING. This works out nicely, and the carved pieces are replaced on the saddle bone. Although you may cut the long thin slices described in the preceding paragraph, we suggest cutting across the grain for better eating texture. Provide yourself with a long, very sharp knife, a fork, and a carving board; heat oven to 475 degrees for a brief warm-up after the reassembly, and carve rapidly, as follows:
Turn saddle upside down and slice off the flanks. Cutting down parallel against the backbone and then following its outward curve, slice out first one whole tenderloin strip, then the other. |
Turn the saddle right side up, shave off outside fat on each side if you wish, then cut down parallel against backbone and follow its outward curve to slice off the whole loin strip on each side. Slanting knife at a 45-degree angle parallel to board, rapidly slice each strip into cross-grain pieces ¾ inch thick; season lightly with salt and pepper but keep slices in order, so that you may replace them again on the bone. Slice and season tenderloin strips.
Arrange the flanks lengthwise on a hot ovenproof serving platter and settle the saddle bone on top. |
Pile the tenderloin pieces at each end of the saddle, and rearrange the loin slices back in place on each side of the backbone. |
Pour the carving juices over the meat; set platter for 2 minutes in oven to give a sizzling impression. Pour a spoonful or two of sauce over the meat, rapidly decorate platter with parsley, watercress, or a vegetable garnish, and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS
Selle d’Agneau, Persillade
[Saddle of Lamb Garnished with Parsley and Buttered Bread Crumbs]
A garnish of bread crumbs sautéed in butter with shallots and seasonings, tossed with parsley, and spread over the finished saddle of lamb is fragrant, attractive, and especially called for when you are carving in the kitchen and serving the reassembled lamb on the saddle bone. Make the persillade at any convenient time as long as it is ready to serve with the roast, as follows:
4 Tb clarified butter (melted butter, skimmed; clear liquid butter poured off milky residue)
A medium (10-inch) frying pan
3 Tb finely minced shallots or scallions
1 cup (lightly pressed down) moderately fine, fresh crumbs from non-sweetened homemade-type white bread
Salt and pepper
3 to 4 Tb minced fresh parsley
Melt butter to bubbling in pan, add shallots and stir for 1 minute, then add bread crumbs and stir over moderately high heat for several minutes until a nice, golden brown. Remove from heat, stir in salt and pepper to taste, and set aside. When the meat is on its platter, mix the parsley into the crumbs and spread the persillade over the lamb; reheat for a moment in hot oven, and serve.
Selle d’Agneau, Milanaise
[Saddle of Lamb Garnished with Parmesan Cheese and Bread Crumbs]
Another attractive finish to a roast saddle of lamb is to spread on a coating of cheese and bread crumbs, then set it into the oven for a moment to brown. Make the mixture as follows:
4 Tb melted butter
½ cup fairly fine, stale bread crumbs
⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese
A small bowl
Pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 475 degrees in time for serving. Blend the butter, crumbs, and cheese together in the bowl; season to taste with pepper and set aside. When saddle is roasted, has rested, and is ready to serve, spread on the crumbs and cheese. Set in upper third of pre-heated oven for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly; serve immediately.
VEAL
Veau
Not too many years ago veal was appreciated only by Europeans or sophisticated and traveled Americans. Now the delights of the scallop quickly sautéed in butter and served in a cream and tarragon sauce, or the roast stuffed with mushrooms, or a blanquette—that deceptively simple and marvelous stew—are quite common dishes on the American table wherever good veal is to be found. Happily for us all, much better veal is now being raised in this country, due to improved feeding methods and to the growing demand for top-quality meat. If your market has not yet begun to carry the large, pale, fine veal that is now available, you can perhaps urge them to feature it in the hope that a demand will be created in your shopping area.
Some 25 pages are devoted to veal, its quality, and its cuts, in Volume I, starting on page 350. Recipes include casserole roasts with herbs and aromatic vegetables, the sumptuous veau Orloff, veal stuffed with ham and cheese, two fine stews, a detailed section on how to fix your own scallops, another on chops, and some useful suggestions for ground-veal patties, an excellent solution for the quite reasonably priced little pieces of neck meat you sometimes find packaged at the meat counter. Here we have three groups of recipes for braising veal: shoulder chops, stews, and illustrated directions on how to bone and stuff a breast of veal in the French manner. We end with two dishes from the haute cuisine, veau en feuilletons and noisettes de veau, Perigourdine, both requiring the ultimate in fine wines, truffles, foie gras, and well-filled porte-feuilles.
BRAISED VEAL CHOPS AND STEAKS
Côtes de Veau Braisées
Both steaks cut from the leg of veal and shoulder chops benefit deliciously from the slow, moist cooking of a braise, as do rib and loin chops from veal that is not of the pale and tender quality one had hoped to find. Because weights of veal carcasses and cutting methods for veal vary so tremendously in this country, we shall simply specify the weight and the thickness of the meat. For shoulder chops, count on ¾ pound per person, and each chop should be ¾ to 1 inch thick. Cross-grain slices from the leg (round) should also be ¾ to 1 inch thick, and 1½ to 2 pounds will serve 4 people.
FRENCH VEAL
In France, shoulder chops are called either basses côtes or côtes découvertes. Only small legs of veal are cut into steaks, rouelles.
CÔTES DE VEAU DANS LEUR JUS
[Veal Chops or Steaks Braised in Wine]
This is a lovely, simple, basic method for braising veal chops or steaks. Serve just as is, enriching the braising juices with a little butter, or elaborating with cream and mushrooms or other trimmings, as decribed in the variations following this recipe. You might arrange the chops on a bed of creamed spinach or on the potatoes simmered in cream and tarragon. Or you could accompany them with the gratin of chard or of spinach and onions. The delicious zucchini timbale would make the dinner much dressier, of course, and if you did not wish a rice or potato dish, a fresh loaf of your own French bread would very nicely take the place of a starchy vegetable. For wine, we suggest a red Bordeaux-Médoc.
For 4 people
1) Browning the chops
4 veal shoulder chops ¾ to 1 inch thick and ¾ lb. each; or 1½ to 2 lbs. veal steak ¾ to 1 inch thick
3 to 4 Tb butter
1 to 2 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
An electric frying pan large enough to hold all the meat in 1 layer; or a medium pan and a baking dish or casserole
If using chops, cut off extra backbone pieces and remove any loose ribs, gristle, and excess fat; if tail is loose, wind it around the body of the meat and skewer in place. (Leave steaks whole or cut into serving pieces, whichever you prefer.) Dry meat thoroughly on paper towels. Heat 2 tablespoons butter and 1 of oil in pan, and when butter foam begins to subside, arrange as much meat in pan as will easily fit in 1 layer. Brown 3 to 4 minutes on each side, regulating heat so butter is very hot but not browning. Remove meat to a side dish if you have not browned all at once, and brown the rest of the veal with more butter or oil if needed.
2) Braising the chops
Salt and pepper
3 Tb minced shallots or scallions
½ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
About 1 cup veal stock, chicken stock, or a combination of canned chicken and beef bouillon
½ tsp tarragon, thyme, mixed Provençal herbs, or Italian seasoning
(You may braise the chops either on top of the stove or in a preheated 325-degree oven; if they will not fit flat in one layer, overlap slightly and plan to baste more frequently.) Season meat on both sides with salt and pepper, and arrange in the pan. Set over moderate heat, stir in the shallots or scallions, and cook 2 minutes, then pour in the wine or vermouth, and enough stock or bouillon to come half way up the meat. Add the herbs. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove, cover pan, and maintain at a slow, steady simmer throughout cooking, basting meat several times with liquid in pan. Whether chops or steak, meat should be done in 50 to 60 minutes, and should be tender when pierced with a knife; if not tender, cook 5 to 10 minutes longer.
3) Sauce and serving
A hot platter
Salt and pepper
Drops of fresh lemon juice
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
Minced fresh parsley and whatever vegetables you wish
Arrange the veal on the platter; cover and keep warm in turned-off oven, door ajar, for the few minutes it will take to finish the sauce. Skim surface fat off cooking juices, bring to the boil, skimming, and boil down rapidly until liquid is almost syrupy. Carefully correct seasoning, adding lemon juice to taste. Remove from heat and swish in the enrichment butter, half a tablespoon at a time. Spoon the sauce over the chops, sprinkle with parsley, and serve immediately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: If you are not serving immediately, prepare the sauce by boiling down the cooking juices to concentrate them, but do not reduce the quantity quite so much. Return veal to pan, baste with sauce, lay waxed paper over it and cover pan loosely. The meat will keep nicely for at least half an hour on a hot-tray or warming oven at 110 to 120 degrees; finish sauce just before serving.
VARIATIONS
Côtes de Veau Gratinées au Fromage
[Braised Veal Chops or Steaks Gratinéed with Cheese]
This is a delicious variation with cheese.
Brown and braise the veal, Steps 1 and 2 in the preceding Master Recipe, and make the sauce, Step 3. Shortly before serving them, gratiné as follows:
¾ cup lightly pressed down, coarsely grated Swiss cheese
¼ cup dry white wine, or dry white French vermouth
Preheat broiler to moderately hot. Arrange the braised veal in a shallow baking dish, if not already in one, and spread the cheese over the meat. Sprinkle the wine or vermouth on top, and set under broiler for several minutes, until cheese has melted and browned nicely. Arrange the chops on their platter, pour the sauce around them, and serve.
Côtes de Veau Braisées aux Champignons
[Veal Chops or Steaks Braised with Mushrooms and Cream]
Mushrooms and veal, like mushrooms and chicken, always go well together and one reason undoubtedly is that the natural MSG in the mushrooms points up the delicate flavor of the meat.
Brown and braise the veal, Steps 1 and 2 in the Master Recipe, but about 10 minutes before veal is done add the mushrooms as follows:
2 cups (¼ lb.) fresh mushrooms
2 Tb butter in a medium (10-inch) frying pan
Salt and pepper
Trim, wash, and dry the mushrooms; slice or quarter them. Heat butter to foaming, add mushrooms, and sauté, tossing and turning for 2 to 3 minutes; season lightly and set aside. (A short sauté in butter gives them added flavor.) When you estimate the veal has around 10 minutes more in the oven, add the mushrooms, basting them with the juices in the casserole.
Sauce and serving
½ to ⅔ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Salt and pepper
Drops of lemon juice
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
2 to 3 Tb minced, fresh parsley, parsley sprigs, or whatever vegetable you may have chosen
When done, remove veal to hot platter; cover and keep warm. Set mushrooms aside on a plate. Skim surface fat off cooking juices and boil liquid down, if necessary, until almost syrupy. Add the cream and boil down again rapidly until sauce is lightly thickened. Return mushrooms to sauce and simmer a moment. Correct seasoning, adding drops of lemon juice as needed. Remove from heat, swish in enrichment butter, then pour sauce and mushrooms over veal, decorate with parsley or vegetables, and serve.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not to serve immediately, complete sauce, except for enrichment butter; return veal to pan and baste with sauce and mushrooms. Cover and keep warm (110–20 degrees). Thin out sauce before serving, if necessary, with more cream or stock; swish in enrichment butter, basting meat with sauce until butter is absorbed.
Côtes de Veau Champvallon, Gratinées
[Veal Chops or Steaks Braised with Potatoes]
This is almost a meal in a dish, and needs only a fresh green accompaniment like broccoli, peas, beans, or spinach; or you may prefer a combination salad in a separate course. Here the potatoes, cooking with the veal and their juices, absorb marvelous flavor, and the cheese and bread-crumb topping at the end not only thickens the cooking juices but also makes attractive serving. Although the general method is almost the same as the Master Recipe, we give a shortened full account because of slight differences.
NOTE: Here you must trim the meat in some way so that it will all fit in one layer in a casserole or baking dish; see Step 2.
For 4 people
1) Browning the veal
½ cup (4 ounces) lardons (blanched bacon sticks, 1½ inches long and ¼ inch thick)
3 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
4 veal shoulder chops or steaks ¾ to 1 inch thick, dried in paper towels
1 cup minced onions
2 large cloves garlic, mashed or minced
Cut the blanched lardons of bacon into ¼-inch dice, and brown slowly with the oil in a frying pan. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving fat in pan. Add the chops or steaks; brown for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, being sure fat is very hot but not burning. Remove veal. Stir in the onions and garlic, cover, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender. Scoop onions and garlic into a side dish, leaving fat in pan. Remove pan from heat.
Salt and pepper
½ tsp tarragon, thyme, mixed Provençal herbs, or Italian seasoning
A covered flameproof casserole or baking dish that will just hold all the meat in one layer (or use two dishes)
4 to 5 cups “boiling” potatoes, peeled and cut into ⅛-inch slices
½ cup fresh, rather roughly minced parsley
½ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
About 1 cup veal stock, chicken stock, or a combination of canned chicken and beef bouillon
Buttered aluminum foil
A bulb baster
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season veal with salt, pepper, and herbs, and arrange in one close layer in casserole with the onions and garlic, and half the browned, diced lardons. Strew the potatoes over the veal, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, and a sprinkling of parsley. (You should have no more than ¾ inch of potatoes in all.) Pour in the wine, and enough stock or bouillon to come ⅓ the way up the potatoes. Spoon a tablespoon or 2 of the cooking fat over the potatoes (unless it has browned, in which case use melted butter). Sprinkle the remaining lardon bits over the potatoes, and bring contents of casserole to simmer on top of stove. Drape buttered foil over potatoes, cover casserole, and set in middle level of preheated oven. Bake for about an hour, or until both veal and potatoes are tender, basting several times with liquid in pan.
3) Gratinéeing and serving
½ cup not-too-fine crumbs from nonsweetened, homemade-type white bread
⅓ cup finely grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese
Raise oven thermostat to 425 degrees. Taste cooking liquid and correct seasoning if necessary. Mix the crumbs and cheese together, and spread over the potatoes. Baste with juices in casserole and set in upper-third level of oven. Baste several times while juices boil down and thicken with the crumbs, and topping browns nicely; this will take 10 to 15 minutes.
Either serve from casserole or baking dish, or remove each piece of veal with its topping, and transfer to a hot platter; pour juices around.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not to serve immediately, let juices reduce and thicken a little less; keep warm, loosely covered with foil, on a hot-tray or 120-degree warming oven. Baste with more stock or with melted butter, if necessary, before serving.
Other ideas for veal chops and steaks
Starting out with the simple braise in the Master Recipe, you might stir the reduced cooking juices, Step 3, into a pistou flavoring, or into the Provençal mixture of anchovies, capers, garlic, and parsley described in Volume I, page 324. Another idea would be to spread a pipérade of sautéed green peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs over the braised veal; cover and let them warm together for a few minutes, then spoon on the sauce and serve. You could use the pistouille mixture, of sautéed eggplant, tomatoes, and peppers in the same way. Finally, there is the always attractive garniture bonne femme, a combination of bacon lardons, partially cooked small onions, and blanched small potatoes, which you add to the veal the last half hour of braising so all finish their cooking together; for this, adapt the poulet en cocotte bonne femme recipe in Volume I, page 253.
VEAL STEWS
Ragoûts de Veau
Veal makes lovely stew, and it cooks in a little more than an hour. Volume I contains the well-known blanquette de veau, with its onions, mushrooms, and creamy sauce, as well as a hearty brown stew with tomatoes. Here are several more stews, including ossobuco.
VEAL CUTS FOR STEWING
The part of the veal breast called “plate” is a favorite French stewing cut, but one that is not popular with all Americans because of the crunchy cartilage of the breast bone and rib ends. The shoulder-chop area, neck, and shoulder arm all give good stew meat, as do both front and hind shanks. The hind shank is the ossobuco, with the marrow bone, and the choicest; the front shank has more bone and the meat more separations; it requires half an hour longer cooking, but makes a good stew because of its gelatinous quality. (If the veal you buy is not of the palest and tenderest quality, the best way to cook it is by stewing or braising; the leg [round] can be used for boneless stewing meat in this case.)
A pound of boneless meat will serve 2 to 3 people, but you will need ¾ to 1 pound per person for bone-in meat. You may use a combination of both in any of the recipes except for ossobuco, but we shall usually specify boneless meat simply to eliminate cumbersome either-or choices. Bones, however, will add texture and flavor to the stew; if your meat is boneless it is a good idea to tie a cupful or so of chopped veal marrow and knuckle bones in washed cheesecloth, and simmer them with the meat.
RAGOÛT DE VEAU AUX CHAMPIGNONS
[Veal Stew with Tomatoes, Mushrooms, and Cream]
There are endless way of flavoring and finishing off a veal stew, because veal, like chicken, is amenable to infinite variety. Here is a Master Recipe for starting out the veal, and a number of ways to vary its presentation. Serve this with rice or pasta, and a fresh green vegetable or a salad. For wine, chose a light, young red like Beaujolais or Cabernet Sauvignon, or a rather strong, dry white of the Côtes-du-Rhône type.
For 4 to 6 people
1) Browning the veal and the onions
2½ to 3 lbs. trimmed and boneless lean stewing veal cut into 1½-inch chunks (see notes preceding recipe)
Salt and pepper
½ cup flour on a plate
2 or more Tb olive oil or cooking oil
A heavy frying pan, no-stick recommended
Dry veal on paper towels, season with salt and pepper, and just before browning, roll in flour and shake off excess. (Shaking in a sieve works nicely.) Film pan with ⅛ inch of oil, set over moderately high heat, and when very hot but not smoking, add as many pieces of veal as will fit easily in 1 layer. Brown nicely on all sides, which will take 4 to 5 minutes or more; remove veal, as it is browned, to a side dish, and continue with the rest.
2 cups sliced onions
2 Tb oil
A heavy 10- by 2-inch chicken fryer, electric skillet, or 3- to 4-quart flameproof casserole
While veal is browning, cook onions in oil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes. When tender, raise heat and brown very lightly. When the veal is done, add it to the onions.
2) Braising the veal
1 cup dry white wine, or ¾ cup dry white French vermouth
1 cup brown veal stock, or chicken stock, or a combination of canned chicken broth and beef bouillon
1 tsp tarragon, basil, or oregano
1 imported bay leaf
1 or 2 large cloves garlic, mashed or minced
1 or 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and roughly chopped (¾ cup pulp)
Discard oil from veal sauté pan and deglaze pan with the wine, scraping up coagulated browning juices. Pour the wine into the veal and onions; stir in the stock, herbs, garlic, and tomatoes. Bring to the simmer, cover and simmer slowly, basting meat occasionally with liquids in pan, for 1 to 1¼ hours, or until veal is tender when pierced with a knife. Do not overcook; meat should not fall apart.
3) The mushrooms
1½ to 2 cups (6 to 8 ounces) fresh mushrooms
More oil
The frying pan that browned the veal
Salt and pepper
While veal is simmering, trim, wash, dry, and quarter the mushrooms. Film pan with ⅛ inch of oil, and set over moderately high heat; when oil is hot but not smoking, sauté the mushrooms, tossing and turning, for 3 to 4 minutes, just until they are starting to brown lightly. Season to taste, and set aside.
4) Sauce and serving
If needed: beurre manié (1 Tb flour blended to a paste with 1 Tb soft butter), and a wire whip
½ to ⅔ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
The mushrooms
Minced fresh parsley, or mixed fresh green herbs (parsley, chives, and tarragon, basil, or Oregano)
When veal is tender, scoop it out into a side dish with a slotted spoon. Skim off surface fat, and boil down cooking liquid, if necessary, to concentrate its flavor. If it seems too thin (it must be thick enough to cover the meat nicely), remove from heat, beat in beurre manié with wire whip, and bring to the simmer. Stir in the cream and the mushrooms, bring to the boil, and boil slowly 2 to 3 minutes to thicken the sauce again, and to blend flavors. Carefully correct seasoning. Return veal to casserole and simmer again for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the veal with the sauce; correct seasoning again. Either serve from pan or casserole, or arrange on a hot platter surrounded with whatever vegetables you have chosen. Decorate with herbs, and bring immediately to the table.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: May be kept warm for a good half hour on a hot-tray or over simmering water. May be cooked a day before serving; when cold, spread plastic wrap over surface, cover, and refrigerate. When ready to serve, bring to simmer slowly, and simmer about 10 minutes, basting frequently, until thoroughly re-heated but not overcooked. If sauce seems too thick, thin out with stock or cream.
VARIATIONS
Ragoût de Veau, Printanier
[Veal Stew Garnished with Carrots, Onions, New Potatoes, and Green Peas]
When all the vegetables are fresh, this is delicious indeed and very attractive to serve because of the various colors. If you are cooking and serving with no delay, the vegetables may do all of their simmering in the stew, and you add them at different times, according to how long they take to cook. Otherwise do as suggested here, giving them a separate start, and letting them finish off in the stew just before serving; in this method, you may prepare everything ahead except for the potatoes.
Follow method and ingredients for preceding Master Recipe, Steps 1 and 2, using only ½ cup of onions in Step 1, and omitting the garlic in Step 2. Meanwhile, prepare the following:
The carrots and onions
4 to 6 fine, fresh carrots
24 to 30 small, white, fresh onions ¾ to 1 inch in diameter
A heavy, covered saucepan
1 cup water
1½ Tb butter
½ tsp salt
Peel the carrots, halve or quarter them depending on size, and cut into 1½-inch lengths; trim edges to round them, if you wish. Drop onions into boiling water, boil 1 minute, drain, and slip off peel; pierce a cross ¼ inch deep in root ends for even cooking. Place carrots and onions in pan with the water, butter, and salt; cover and simmer slowly about 25 minutes, until just tender. Set aside.
The peas
1 to 1½ lbs. fresh peas (1 to 1½ cups, shelled)
A saucepan containing 3 quarts of rapidly boiling, salted water
Drop the peas into the rapidly boiling water, bring quickly back to the boil again, and boil uncovered 4 to 8 minutes or more, depending on tenderness. Test frequently by tasting; they should be almost, but not quite, done. Drain immediately, run cold water over them to stop the cooking and retain their fresh color; drain again and set aside.
The potatoes
About 2 lbs. new potatoes (or “boiling” potatoes) all of a size for easy cutting (2¾ to 3 inches long, for instance)
A bowl of cold water
When needed: a saucepan of boiling, salted water
Peel the potatoes and trim into ovals about 2¼ inches long and 1½ inches thick; drop into bowl of cold water and set aside. (About ½ hour before you plan to serve the stew, drain the potatoes and drop into boiling water to cover. Boil slowly, uncovered, until almost tender, drain and add to stew as indicated in last paragraph.)
Finishing the stew
If needed: more stock or bouillon
When veal is tender, tip pan and skim off surface fat. If sauce has reduced too much, add a little more stock or bouillon so that you will have enough liquid to cook and baste the vegetables.
About 10 minutes before serving, arrange the carrots, onions, potatoes, and peas in the casserole, pushing them gently down into the meat and cooking juices. Pour any cooking juices from carrots and onions over meat, and baste both meat and vegetables with juices in casserole. Bring to the simmer, cover closely, and simmer about 10 minutes, basting several times, until vegetables are tender. Correct seasoning. Either serve from casserole, or turn the stew out onto a hot platter.
Ossobuco—Jarret de Veau à la Provençale
[Braised Veal Shanks with Wine, Tomatoes, Lemon, and Orange]
Osso is bone and buco is round, meaning the shank with the round bone, which is the hind shank with the marrow bone. This favorite Italian veal stew is also done in France, and here is the Provençal version. Although you may use foreshanks, hind shanks are so much more attractive to serve because the bone is small and the meat holds around it nicely, that we counsel you to order hind shanks, and do the recipe when you have the right meat. Veal shanks, sawed into 1½-inch pieces and ready to cook, will freeze perfectly for several weeks; therefore pick up whatever you can whenever you can, and save all hind shanks for this really delicious recipe.
For 4 people—4 veal hind shanks, sawed into crosswise pieces 1½ inches thick
Season, flour, and brown the veal shanks; arrange in the braising liquid with the onions, garlic, tomatoes, and herbs as described in the Master Recipe, Steps 1 and 2. Then proceed as follows:
Cut the zests (colored parts of the peel) from the orange and lemon, then cut zests into julienne strips 1⁄16 inch wide. To remove bitterness (but none of the flavor), simmer 10 minutes; drain, refresh in cold water, drain again, and stir into the casserole with the veal stew.
Bring stew to simmer, cover casserole, and simmer either in a preheated 325-degree oven or on top of the stove for 1¼ hours, or until meat is tender when pierced with a fork. Do not overcook: meat must not come loose from bone. When tender, tip casserole and skim surface fat from cooking liquid. Set casserole over high heat, if necessary, and boil down sauce to concentrate flavor. Correct seasoning. Serve either from casserole, or on a hot platter. Decorate with parsley sprigs.
Other ideas
Use other veal stew meat, such as cuts from the shoulder or the leg, and give it the ossobuco flavoring. Vary the ossobuco recipe with olives: blanch a handful each of pitted green olives and pitted black olives for 10 minutes in a quart of boiling water; drain, and add to the stew the last 15 to 20 minutes of cooking. See also the variations at the end of beef stews, which include an herb, cheese, and garlic finish, another with anchovies and garlic, a pipérade with peppers and tomatoes, and a final one with olives and potatoes; any of these may be added to the cooked veal at the end of Step 2, Master Recipe, instead of the mushrooms and cream. You thus have a wide choice, and never need serve the same stew twice.
STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL
Poitrine de Veau, Farcie
Breast of veal boned, stuffed with a well-seasoned filling, braised, and sauced makes a handsome as well as tasty main-course party dish, and one that is far more reasonable in price than most. French and American meat cutting methods differ, and as we find the French version much the most attractive to serve, here is how to buy and prepare it. If you cannot have the butchering done properly for you, and if you enjoy working with meat yourself, you will find the whole breast not at all difficult to handle, and you may even be able to buy it at a far more interesting price than if it were boned and trimmed at the market.
HOW TO BUY A BREAST OF VEAL
In America, a breast of veal (or of lamb) comprises the whole brisket-plate section. From a large, pale, prime carcass of veal, such as you can find in France and in some markets here, this will weigh 7 to 7½ pounds before boning and trimming. The boned brisket weighs 2½ pounds; the breastbone, 1 pound; the plate and skirt (flap of meat falling over ribs), with the ribs and cartilage, 3½ pounds. It is the boned brisket that is stuffed for French recipes; a 2½-pound brisket, stuffed, will be 12 inches long, 7 to 8 inches across, and can easily serve 8 people.
Adapt whatever you find to the general idea of the recipe even if your market does not carry breasts of the desired weight, or follows different cutting methods. You might, for instance, sew or skewer 2 plates together for stuffing, or 2 briskets, if they are smaller than you think they should be. If you have trouble making your wishes known, show your butcher this picture; he might be willing to order one for you, and to prepare it according to your specifications.
Actually, the whole brisket-plate combination is a good buy because not only will you have the brisket to stuff, but you can also save the thick part of the plate for stew, you can grind the rest of the plate along with the skirt for your stuffing, and when you boil up the breastbone and ribs, you will have a fine veal stock for braising the poitrine farcie.
FRENCH TERMINOLOGY
Brisket is poitrine, and the poitrine also includes the skirt, hampe; ask for a poitrine de veau désossée, avec poche. The plate is called tendron, and is a favorite French cut for blanquette de veau, particularly the thick part containing the breastbone cartilage.
DIRECTIONS FOR THE HOME BUTCHER
NOTE: In the drawing, the breast has been separated in two—the right-hand piece, minus leg bones, is the brisket; the left-hand piece the plate.
To bone the whole breast, start with the breastbone (right side in drawing), which is attached to the ribs by cartilages: first, place the meat rib-side up, with the breastbone hanging over the edge of the table. Lean hard on the bone to break it from the cartilages at the rib ends, then cut around its ridges and follow its cartilaginous prolongation into the plate, to remove the entire bone from the meat. The next step is to separate the brisket from the plate: slice through the meat between ribs 5 and 6 to make 2 pieces, as in the drawing. Slice off the skirt, a flap of meat on the rib side, attached to the thick part of the plate. Remove the rib bones from both brisket and plate by cutting first around them, then underneath each bone to loosen it from the meat. The thick part of the plate that contained the prolongation of the breastbone (bottom left in drawing) can make an excellent stew for 2 people; cut it off from the rest of the plate, and freeze it for another meal. Trim excess fat off brisket with a long, sharp knife. Then carefully slice a pocket in the brisket (right-hand piece), going in from the large or plate end; the brisket will now be like a pouch, and you will close it by sewing or skewering after you stuff it. Scrape usable meat from membranes covering plate and skirt, and grind it. Chop up the breastbone, and brown bones and scraps half an hour in a 450-degree oven with a sliced carrot and onion; then simmer for 3 to 4 hours in water, herbs, and seasonings to make a simple but delicious veal stock (detailed directions are in Volume I, pages 107–11).
POITRINE DE VEAU, FARCIE
[Breast of Veal Stuffed and Braised—Hot or Cold]
Green stuffings provide attractive serving slices and should be made of chard leaves, if you can find them; spinach, if you cannot. The rest of the stuffing consists of boiled rice, ground veal, a little ham, and a bit of onion. There is no pork here, no garlic, and the delicate taste of the veal does seem to come through beautifully. Accompany the dish with braised onions and carrots or baked tomatoes. A not too heavy red wine would be the one to choose, like a Bordeaux, a young Beaujolais, or a Cabernet Sauvignon; a rosé would also go well. Serve cold breast of veal with sliced tomatoes, the French potato salad, pommes a l’huile, Volume I, page 541, and either a rosé or a dry white from the Rhône like Chante Alouette.
For 8 people
¼ cup rendered fresh pork fat, ham fat, or chicken or goose fat
½ cup finely minced onions
A medium (10-inch) frying pan, enameled or no-stick
4 or 5 large, green chard leaves minus white part of stalks (or 1 cup cooked, chopped spinach or ¾ package frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry)
The bowl of a heavy-duty mixer, or a large mixing bowl and wooden spoon
Salt
¾ cup boiled rice (¼ cup plain, raw, white rice boiled 12 minutes in 1 quart of salted water, and drained)
1 to 1½ cups lean raw veal finely ground with ½ cup lean mild-cured boiled ham (supermarket ham slice)
½ to ⅔ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 “large” egg
Large pinch grated nutmeg
¼ tsp pepper
Melt the fat in the frying pan, stir in the onions, cover, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes, until tender and just beginning to brown lightly. Set aside. Meanwhile blanch the chard leaves in a large kettle of boiling salted water for 3 to 4 minutes, until wilted; drain, refresh in cold water, squeeze hard to rid leaves of water, and chop moderately fine (¼-inch pieces). Blend chard (or spinach) into onions; stir over moderately high heat for a few moments to evaporate remaining liquid; cover and cook slowly several minutes more, until fairly tender. Season to taste and scrape into bowl. Vigorously beat in the boiled rice, ground meat, cheese, egg, nutmeg, and pepper. Sauté a small spoonful in frying pan until cooked through, taste carefully, and add more seasonings if you feel them necessary.
2) Stuffing the veal
A boned breast (brisket) of veal, weighing, if possible, around 2½ lbs. (See directions, description, and alternates.)
Salt and pepper
A trussing needle or small poultry-lacing skewers
White string
Open the pocket in the meat and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Insert the stuffing, pushing it well down into the meat, but do not overfill. Close opening of meat by sewing with string, or with skewers and string. If by chance you have pierced a hole in the surface of the meat, close it by sewing or skewering.
The ridged side, where the ribs were, is the underside; turn small end of the meat under and sew or skewer it in place, thus giving the veal a rectangular cushion shape about 12 inches long and 8 inches across. If meat seems solid and stuffing securely in place, tying is not necessary; otherwise, with string, make 2 loops around length and several around circumference, but do not tie too tightly. Dry the meat thoroughly before proceeding to next step.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you wish to prepare and refrigerate the veal the day before cooking, chill stuffing before inserting it into the meat, just to be sure and safe.
3) Browning and braising the veal—2½ hours
Rendered pork fat, goose fat, or cooking oil
A heavy casserole or roaster just large enough to hold veal comfortably (a 10- by 12-inch oval, for example)
½ cup each, roughly sliced carrots and onions
Optional but desirable, if you have no homemade veal stock: a cup or so of chopped veal bones
Salt
A bulb baster
1 cup dry white wine, or ¾ cup dry white French vermouth
2 to 3 cups homemade veal stock, or rich chicken stock, or a combination of canned beef bouillon and chicken broth
½ tsp thyme
1 imported bay leaf
A sheet of fresh pork fat or suet, or aluminum foil
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Film casserole with ⅛ inch of fat or oil; when very hot but not smoking, brown the vegetables and optional bones. Remove to a side dish, add more fat or oil if needed, and brown bottom (former rib side) of veal, lifting carefully from time to time with wooden spoon to be sure meat is not sticking. When browned, in 5 to 6 minutes, baste top with fat and set uncovered in upper-middle level of preheated oven for about 15 minutes, basting with fat in casserole several times, until top and sides of meat have browned nicely. Remove from oven; turn thermostat down to 350 degrees. Salt the meat lightly, strew the browned bones and vegetables around, pour in the wine and enough stock or bouillon to come ⅔ the way up the meat. Add the thyme and bay leaf, and drape the fat or foil over the meat.
Bring to the simmer on top of stove, cover the casserole, and braise in lower-middle level of oven, regulating heat so that liquid in casserole remains at a slow, even simmer. If meat is easy to turn, do so several times during cooking, replacing fat or foil on top; otherwise, baste every 20 minutes or so with the liquids in the casserole. Meat should be done in about 2 hours, when it feels tender if pierced with a fork. It should retain its shape perfectly; in other words, do not let it overcook.
4) Sauce and serving
A hot platter
A sieve set over a saucepan
Salt and pepper
If needed: 1 Tb cornstarch mixed to a paste with 2 Tb wine or vermouth
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
Parsley, watercress, or whatever vegetable garnish you have chosen
A warm sauce bowl
Remove veal to hot platter. Do not untie or unskewer it yet, but cover with its fat or foil, and set in turned-off oven, door ajar. Strain braising liquid into saucepan, pressing juices out of vegetables. Skim off surface fat, bring liquid to the simmer, skimming, and boil down rapidly, if necessary, to around 2 cups.
If sauce needs thickening, remove from heat, beat in the cornstarch mixture, and simmer 2 minutes. Carefully correct seasoning. Just before serving, remove from heat and beat in the enrichment butter a half a tablespoon at a time. Remove trussings from veal, spoon a little sauce over to glaze it, and decorate the platter as you wish. Pour remaining sauce into bowl. Serve immediately.
To carve, cut crosswise slices ⅜ to ½ inch thick, as though meat were a loaf of bread. Ring each slice with a spoonful or two of sauce.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not serving for half an hour or so, finish the sauce except for butter enrichment; return meat and sauce to casserole. Set cover askew and keep anywhere that you can maintain a temperature of 120 degrees. An occasional basting of the meat will keep it moist; if sauce thickens during wait, thin with stock before serving.
Other stuffings
Breast of veal takes kindly to many stuffings. Another combination with chard includes the sausage meat, ham, and bread crumbs used for paupiette of beef, and there is the mushroom duxelles and spinach stuffing for shoulder of lamb Viroflay. Either the mushroom and kidney stuffing for boned leg of lamb, or the kidney and rice stuffing in Volume I, page 337, would be delicious and unusual, as would be the boudin blanc and mushrooms mixture in the chicken section. Or any of these stuffing possibilities.
VEAU EN FEUILLETONS
[Sliced and Stuffed Roast of Veal]
Veal wants stuffing, as the British would say, and here is a typically French grande cuisine farce fine of pork, veal, truffles, foie gras, and Cognac. This is sliced veal marinated in wine and truffles, then tied together in the form of a roast with the stuffing between each slice. Braised with stock and aromatic vegetables, it produces a most heavenly sauce combining all of the luxurious flavors. Very definitely a dish for a select group of friends, it calls for your finest in château-bottled Bordeaux-Médocs, and the best vegetables. You might surround the meat platter with a fluted border of mashed potatoes duchesse and pass separately something like braised spinach, chopped broccoli simmered in cream, braised endives or lettuce, or fresh, buttered peas.
THE VEAL
If you can get it, the top round from a large, pale, prime leg would give you solid scallops with no muscle separations. Otherwise settle either for cuts from the full round that you can separate and regroup, or the thin scallopini available in some markets. These latter you could regroup or spread separately with stuffing. Play it by look and feel, aiming for a re-formed roast about 10 inches long and 5 inches in diameter.
For 10 to 12 people
1) Marinating the veal in Cognac and truffles
2 to 2½ lbs. veal scallops preferably from the top round, making 10 to 12 slices 6 by 4 inches in diameter and 3⁄16 inch thick (or scallopini, 2 or 3 per person)
Waxed paper and a mallet or rolling pin
A dish large enough to hold scallops in several layers
½ cup Cognac
1 or 2 canned truffles, minced, and their juice
Plastic wrap
Trim all filaments, fat, and extraneous matter from scallops. Place them one by one between sheets of waxed paper and pound not too heavily, to break down filaments slightly, and to spread the meat out a little. (This will not be necessary with scallopini.) Arrange the scallops in layers interspersed with sprinklings of Cognac and minced truffles. Pour remaining Cognac and the truffle juices over meat, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside while preparing stuffing.
2) Ground pork stuffing with ham, truffles, and foie gras—3½ cups
¼ cup finely minced shallots or scallions
1½ Tb butter
A small frying pan
Bowl of heavy-duty mixer, or a large mixing bowl
Sauté the shallots or scallions slowly in the butter for 2 to 3 minutes until tender but not browned. Scrape into bowl.
The following, finely ground together:
12 ounces (1½ cups) lean pork
4 ounces (½ cup) fresh pork fat
4 ounces (½ cup) lean veal
4 ounces (½ cup) mildcured ham, such as a store-bought, ready-to-cook ham slice
1 tsp salt
⅛ tsp white pepper
Big pinch ground allspice
½ tsp tarragon leaves, finely chopped or powdered
legg
The juices from the marinated scallops, and the truffles
Add all of the rest of the ingredients listed, and beat vigorously by machine or with a wooden spoon to blend thoroughly. Just before starting Step 3, drain marinade liquid into stuffing, scrape truffles off veal, and beat vigorously into stuffing. To check seasoning, sauté a spoonful until cooked through, taste, and add more salt, pepper, or herbs if needed. (The foie gras comes in Step 3.)
3) Assembling the veal
Either a piece of caul fat 16 to 18 inches square;
Or well-washed cheesecloth, melted butter, and a pastry brush
Salt and pepper
4 to 6 ounces canned foie gras en bloc (imported goose liver; read the label)
White string
(If your veal slices are smaller or thinner than the ideal, group them together, adapting meat to the method outlined here.) Spread the caul fat or cheesecloth on a board or tray. Season each scallop of veal lightly with salt and pepper, and build the slices into a closely packed loaf shape, with stuffing and a slice of foie gras between each scallop.
If you are using caul fat, fold it securely around the meat; if using cheesecloth, first paint it with melted butter, roll it tightly around circumference, then twist each end tight and tie close against meat with string. Tie a loop of string around length of meat, and wind string back and forth around circumference to keep all in place. You should have a fat sausage shape about 10 inches long.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Recipe may be prepared a day in advance to this point; wrap airtight and refrigerate.
4) Browning and braising the veal—about 2 hours
A heavy, covered, flame-proof casserole just large enough to hold meat comfortably, such as a 10- by 12-inch oval 5 inches deep
Rendered goose fat, pork fat, or cooking oil
2 cups chopped veal knuckle and marrow bones
1 medium carrot, roughly chopped
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
1½ to 2 cups excellent veal stock, beef stock, or a mixture of chicken broth and beef bouillon
½ tsp thyme
1 imported bay leaf
Useful: a meat thermometer
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Dry the meat in paper towels. Set casserole over moderately high heat with the fat or oil, and when very hot but not smoking, brown the meat on all sides. (It will brown through cheesecloth perfectly well.) Remove to a side dish and brown the bones and vegetables. Push them to sides and return meat to casserole; pour in enough stock or bouillon to come halfway up. Strew the herbs around the meat. Bring liquid to the simmer, cover casserole, and set in lower-middle level of preheated oven.
Check casserole in about 20 minutes, and when contents are quietly simmering, reduce oven heat to 325 degrees. Turn the meat twice during cooking and braise about 2 hours in all, or to a meat thermometer reading of 165 to 170 degrees. When done, remove veal to a side dish and let rest 20 minutes in turned-off oven, door ajar; meat must settle before serving so pieces will hold in place.
5) Sauce and serving
A sieve set over a saucepan
2 tsp cornstarch blended with ¼ cup dry Madeira (Sercial), dry port, or Cognac
A wire whip
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
A warm serving bowl
A hot platter
Watercress, parsley sprigs, or whatever vegetable garnish you may have chosen
Strain braising liquid into saucepan. Skim off as much surface fat as you can, and bring liquid to the simmer, skimming off additional fat. Boil down rapidly, if necessary, to about 2 cups; carefully correct seasoning. Remove from heat, blend in the cornstarch mixture, and simmer 2 minutes. Sauce should be lightly thickened.
Disturbing meat as little as possible, untie it. If you have used caul fat, it will have mostly disintegrated during cooking; remove any bits that have not. If you have used cheesecloth, carefully cut it off with shears. Using two spatulas, lift meat onto hot platter. (If by chance the slices come apart, push them together.) Spoon a little sauce over meat to glaze it, and decorate platter with whatever you have chosen. Reheat sauce, remove from heat, and beat in the enrichment butter a half tablespoon at a time, and pour into hot sauce bowl. Serve immediately. For serving, spread scallops slightly apart with spoon and fork, to display the meat. Be sure each slice comes off with its share of stuffing, and surround with a spoonful of sauce.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You may complete the sauce except for the final butter enrichment, and arrange the meat on its platter, cover it, and keep warm for a good half hour at 120 degrees.
VARIATIONS
Feuilletons de Veau en Croûte
[Stuffed Roast of Veal Baked in a Pastry Crust]
The presentation of a roast baked in brown, decorated pastry is always dramatic. For the stuffed veal, follow the preceding Master Recipe exactly through Steps 1, 2, and 3, and braise the meat in Step 4 for about 1½ hours, or to a thermometer reading of 150 degrees. Remove the meat, and let it rest 30 minutes. Then untie it, remove covering, and drape the roast either in puff pastry as described for the gigot en croûte, or in chilled brioche dough as for the tenderloin of beef. Decorate the dough, glaze it with egg, and return to a 425-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes, to cook and brown the crust, and to finish cooking the meat. Serve with the same sauce described in Step 5 of the preceding recipe.
Noisettes de Veau, Périgourdine
[Individual Stuffed Loin Scallops with Foie Gras and Truffles]
Less dramatic but exquisite in taste are noisettes of veal, meaning the boneless loin or rib-eye section of a veal chop, surrounded with the stuffing, braised in wine, and served with a brown, truffled sauce. You can do this dish, however, only if you have caul fat to hold the stuffing in place; it disintegrates during cooking. You might serve the noisettes on a platter garnished with very carefully sautéed potatoes, glazed onions, glazed carrots, sautéed mushrooms, and a decoration of fresh parsley sprigs. Another suggestion would be pommes Anna, or the gratin Crécy of scalloped potatoes and carrots in cream, Volume I, page 525, and the chopped, sautéed broccoli. A very fine red Bordeaux-Médoc would again be indicated.
For 6 people
1) Preparing the noisettes for cooking
12 noisettes of veal (boneless large eye of meat in loin or rib chops, ½ inch thick and 2½ inches in diameter if possible; 3 per person if smaller)
½ the marinade ingredients in Step 1, Master Recipe
About ⅓ cup clarified butter (melted butter, skimmed; clear liquid butter spooned off milky residue)
A medium (10-inch) frying pan, no-stick recommended
Trim all fat, filaments, and gristle from noisettes. Salt and pepper lightly, and marinate in a covered bowl with the Cognac, truffles, and shallots for at least half an hour, or overnight. Scrape marinade off meat, and beat it into the stuffing (next step) along with the marinade liquid. Dry noisettes thoroughly on paper towels. Film pan with ⅛ inch of the clarified butter, heat to bubbling hot, and sauté a few scallops at a time for a minute or so on each side, just to stiffen the meat slightly. Remove to a side dish, reserving butter in pan.
A piece of caul fat about 24 inches square
½ the stuffing ingredients in Step 2, Master Recipe
3 ounces canned foie gras en bloc
Divide stuffing and foie gras into 12 (or 18) portions. Spread a piece of caul fat (about 8 inches square) on a board or tray. Center a half portion of stuffing upon it, and a half portion of foie gras upon that. Place a noisette of veal over the stuffing, top with its remaining share of foie gras, and spread with its final share of stuffing. Fold caul fat around it, to enclose meat and stuffing. Continue with the rest of the noisettes in the same way.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be done a day in advance to this point; cover and refrigerate.
2) Cooking and serving
The frying pan and the clarified butter
The noisettes of veal wrapped in caul fat
A covered flameproof baking dish large enough to hold scallops in one slightly overlapping layer
A brunoise (¼ cup each very finely diced—1⁄16 inch—carrots, onions, and celery)
¼ cup dry Madeira (Sercial) wine
½ cup veal stock, beef stock, or bouillon
A hot platter, and whatever decorative garnish you have chosen
A small canned truffle, minced, and its juices
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Add more butter to pan, if necessary, to film it by ⅛ inch. Heat to bubbling hot, and brown the meat again lightly on each side for a minute or so. Arrange in baking dish. Stir brunoise vegetables into pan, lower heat, and cook rather slowly for 5 to 6 minutes, until tender and barely browned. Pour in the Madeira, scraping up coagulated sauté juices with a wooden spoon. With a rubber spatula, scrape wine and vegetables over noisettes. Add the stock or bouillon, bring to the simmer, cover, and braise in middle level of preheated oven for 25 minutes.
Remove any bits of caul fat that have not disintegrated, and arrange noisettes on hot platter, cover, and keep warm. Skim surface fat off cooking juices, and boil down rapidly until almost syrupy and reduced to around ½ cup. Add minced truffle and its juices; simmer 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and swirl in the enrichment butter by half tablespoonfuls. Spoon sauce and brunoise vegetables over noisettes. Serve immediately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you cannot serve immediately, finish sauce except for butter enrichment. Return meat to baking dish, baste with sauce, cover partially, and keep warm on a hot-tray or in a 120-degree warming oven.
SUCKLING PIG
Cochon de Lait
Roast suckling pig is wonderfully dramatic to serve, delicious to eat, and is hardly more difficult to cook than a turkey. Your only absolute requirement is an oven large enough to hold the roasting pan that will be large enough for the pig; the pig will be around 20 inches long from end of rump to tip of snout, but it can be arranged either in the traditional straight crouch, illustrated farther on, or in a comfortable curl; a pan 12 by 18 inches and 2 inches deep would be the minimum size. You must also have something upon which to serve the pig, like a jumbo platter, a large tray, a carving board, or a piece of plywood covered with foil. You will want leaves, flowers, fruits, and vegetables for decoration; suggestions are in Step 7 of the recipe. Your final decision will be whether or not to stuff the pig. If you choose not to stuff, you should spread a flavoring of cooked chopped celery and onions, herbs (thyme, bay, sage), salt, and pepper in the cavity. Stuffing, however, not only flavors the meat, but also allows you to serve more people; use anything suitable for turkey or goose, such as sausages and apples, bread crumbs and onions, one of the appropriate suggestions listed, or the unusual farce Trébizonde suggested in the recipe here.
HOW TO ORDER A SUCKLING PIG
Be sure to order suckling pig well in advance, because this is not an everyday item. Specify the genuine milk-fed suckling pig, weighing 10 to 12 pounds and no more; heavier animals are too fatty and the skin is tough. After 14 pounds a pig is no longer suckling and would probably not fit into your oven anyway. It may be that when the pig is available, you are not, but you can have it wrapped airtight and frozen, where it will keep perfectly for several weeks at zero degrees or less. (Fresh pork is perishable; plan to roast the pig within a day or two of purchasing or defrosting it.) Ask that it be thoroughly cleaned inside and out, and that the eyeballs be removed because they burst during cooking. If the heart, liver, and kidneys come along with the pig, save them for your stuffing or use in the Provençal sausages, caillettes.
PREPARING THE PIG FOR ROASTING
To prepare the pig for roasting, soak for several hours in cold water with ¼ cup of vinegar and 2 tablespoons of salt for each 4 quarts of water. If your pig is frozen, it will defrost at the same time. Scrub inside the ears, nostrils, and mouth with a vegetable brush to be sure all is clean; scrub the feet also. Go over the pig to remove any hairs that might have been missed. Dry the pig thoroughly inside and out, and it is ready to stuff and roast.
COCHON DE LAIT, FARCI À LA TRÉBIZONDE
[Roast Suckling Pig Stuffed with Rice, Sausages, Apricots, and Raisins]
With this exotic mixture stuffed into your suckling pig you need just a green vegetable accompaniment, like buttered brussels sprouts or broccoli. A smooth and not too heavy red wine would be your best choice, such as a Bordeaux from the Graves or Médoc districts.
For 12 to 14 people
1) Preparing the pig for stuffing—3 to 4 hours
A 10- to 12-pound suckling pig
Prepare the pig for roasting, soak it and dry it as described above.
2) The rice, sausage, and apricot stuffing—farce Trébizonde—10 to 12 cups
NOTE: Many of the steps in this stuffing may be carried on at once; we have separated each process, and leave the time sequences up to you.
1 lb. pure pork sausages (preferably homemade)
A medium (10-inch) frying pan with cover
¼ cup water
A 5- to 6-quart mixing bowl
A slotted spoon
Prick skin of sausages with a pin, arrange in pan with water, cover, and simmer 5 minutes. Uncover, drain off water, and sauté sausages slowly for several minutes, until lightly browned. Remove, leaving fat in pan. Cut sausages into ½-inch lengths, and place in mixing bowl.
Either the pig’s liver, heart, and kidneys cut into ⅜-inch dice (1¼ to 1½ cups);
Or ¾ lb. liver, calf or chicken, diced
¼ cup minced shallots or scallions
¼ tsp thyme
Salt and pepper
Heat fat in pan to very hot but not smoking, and stir in the liver mixture, shallots or scallions, and thyme. Toss and turn for 2 minutes, just to stiffen liver. Season, and scoop out into mixing bowl, leaving fat in pan.
2½ cups minced onions
Stir the onions into the pan, cover and cook slowly 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and translucent. Season lightly, scoop half into mixing bowl, and leave the rest in the pan.
1 whole head of garlic
A pan of boiling water
Butter if needed
1½ cups plain, raw, white untreated rice
⅓ cup dry, white wine or dry, white French vermouth
1⅓ cups chicken broth, hot
1⅓ cups hot water
½ tsp salt
½ imported bay leaf
¼ tsp thyme
Big pinch saffron threads
Separate garlic cloves, drop them unpeeled into boiling water, and boil 2 minutes. Drain, refresh in cold water, slip off peel, quarter garlic lengthwise, and reserve. If fat in frying pan has darkened, drain onions and return them to pan with 3 tablespoons butter. Blend in rice, and stir over moderate heat for several minutes until rice becomes translucent, then milky in color. Stir in the wine or vermouth, chicken broth, hot water, salt, herbs, and saffron. Bring to the slow boil, add the garlic, and stir once; cover, and boil slowly for about 15 minutes, or until all liquid has been absorbed and rice is almost but not quite tender. Set aside, uncovered.
3 to 4 ounces (½ cup) seedless black raisins or currants
A bowl of very hot water
Drop raisins into hot water and let soften 10 to 15 minutes. Drain, squeeze dry in the corner of a towel, and add to mixing bowl.
½ lb. (1⅓ to 1½ cups) best-quality dried apricots
A bowl of very hot water
1 cup beef stock or bouillon
A heavy covered saucepan
Big pinch allspice
Soak apricots for 10 to 15 minutes until somewhat softened. Drain, and simmer slowly in bouillon with allspice until just tender enough to eat (not mushy). Drain, reserving any liquid for your final sauce. Cut apricots into ¾-inch pieces and add to mixing bowl.
A rubber spatula
¼ tsp each: ground fennel seeds, thyme, and oregano
⅛ tsp ground imported bay leaf
⅛ tsp white pepper
Salt
Gradually blend the cooked rice into the mixing bowl, turning gently with the rest of the ingredients and the herbs and seasonings listed here. Taste very critically for seasoning, adding more salt, pepper, and herbs if you think them necessary.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Stuffing may be made a day in advance; cover and refrigerate.
3) Stuffing the pig
2 tsp salt
⅛ tsp white pepper
6 to 8 skewers or finishing nails about 3 inches long
White string
Aluminum foil
Turn the pig on its back, and season cavity with salt and pepper. Spread in the stuffing, filling the cavity completely but not forcing it. (Reserve any extra stuffing; cook separately, in a covered dish.) Close cavity with skewers and lace them in place with string. If there is a slit under the chin, season with salt and pepper, but it need not be closed. Crumple foil into a ball 2 to 2½ inches in diameter, force pig’s jaws open, and insert ball to keep them open.
4) Into the roasting pan
½ cup or more olive oil or cooking oil in a small pan
A basting brush
A shallow roasting pan at least 20 inches long with rack
More skewers and string if needed
Aluminum foil
Optional but recommended: a meat thermometer
Dry surface of pig again with paper towels, and paint pig all over with oil.
If pig will fit in a straight crouch in pan, skewer and tie hindlegs and forelegs in place to brace pig in position; let head rest between forelegs. |
Or arrange pig in a less formal position, hind legs extended forward, and forelegs curled under. |
If chin sticks out over lip of pan in either position, put a double thickness of foil under it so that roasting juices will drain back into pan. Insert balls of foil into the eye sockets; make tents of foil to cover the ears and protect them during roasting. To protect tail, tuck into rear opening. Insert meat thermometer into thickest portion of thigh, being sure its point is not touching any bone.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Although pig may be stuffed the day before roasting if both stuffing and pig have been chilled separately beforehand, you will have to leave the pig out at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours before roasting or timing will be difficult and roasting may be uneven.
5) Roasting—oven preheated to 450 degrees; 3 to 3½ hours (2½ to 3 hours roasting plus a 30-minute rest)
The oil and the basting brush
1 cup roughly sliced onions
⅔ cup roughly sliced carrots
4 cloves of garlic, whole and unpeeled
Set pan with pig in lower-middle level of preheated 450-degree oven. In 15 minutes, rapidly brush entire surface of pig with oil. Roast 15 minutes more, baste again with oil, and turn thermostat down to 350 degrees.
Baste in 20 minutes. Twenty minutes later, after pig has roasted a little more than an hour in all, baste again, and strew the onions, carrots, and garlic cloves in the pan. Continue basting every 20 minutes or so, using fat in pan when oil is used up; basting helps the skin to crisp and brown nicely. In a total of 2½ to 3 hours, meat thermometer should have reached 180 to 185 degrees, the thigh meat should be tender when pressed, the legs should move in their sockets, and the pig is done. (Note that a chilled, stuffed pig may take up to 30 minutes longer to roast, as may a 14-pound pig.)
Pig must now rest 30 minutes before carving, so that meat juices will retreat back into tissues. Turn oven off and leave door ajar, letting pig remain warm.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Pig can wait a good hour before carving; when oven has cooled for 20 minutes, reset thermostat to 140 degrees and close the door (or reheat oven briefly every 10 minutes).
The serving platter, tray, or board
2 cups veal stock or beef stock, or beef bouillon
1 cup dry port, Sercial Madeira, dry white wine, or dry white French vermouth
1 Tb dry mustard blended with 2 Tb of the stock or wine
A strainer set over a bowl or a saucepan
Salt and pepper
A warm sauce bowl
Lift pig, and drain its juices back into the roasting pan; set it on platter, remove foil, skewers, string, etc., and pluck end of tail from its hiding place. Remove rack, tilt pan, and spoon fat off roasting juices. Pour the stock or bouillon into the pan, and the wine; beat in the mustard mixture, and bring to the simmer, scraping coagulated roasting juices into liquid. Simmer slowly for 10 to 15 minutes while pig is being carved. (You may wish to scrape all of this liquid into a saucepan rather than simmering in the roasting pan.) When you are ready to serve, pour accumulated carving juices into sauce, and strain sauce into bowl or pan, pressing juices out of vegetables. Skim off any surface fat, carefully correct seasoning, and pour sauce into warm bowl for serving.
7) Decorations and presentation
Decorate the platter with leaves, and flowers or fruit, placing a garland of flowers around the pig’s neck, if you wish. Stick flowers in the eyes, and replace the ball of foil in its mouth with a shining red apple or a tangerine. (Orange blossoms, shiny green leaves, and yellow zinnias, for instance, are very attractive; at Christmastime, holly, cranberries, and white daisies would be appropriate.) Bring the pig to the table or parade it around the room, so that everyone may enjoy its splendor. Although you may carve at the table, we suggest the seclusion of the kitchen unless an expert in suckling pigs is among the party.
8) Carving and serving
Provide yourself with 1 or 2 very sharp carving knives, a carving or kitchen fork, a big spoon, and a large pair of kitchen shears or poultry shears; an electric carving knife can be helpful in making the first cuts in the skin. We suggest you carve and serve one side, and return to the kitchen to carve the second side of the pig. Arrange it attractively again for the second serving at the table.
First, slit the skin the length of the backbone, using an electric carving knife if you have one. Then cut around skin where you feel the outline of the shoulder; lift off shoulder and foreleg portion. Do the same for the hind leg. Divide both into serving pieces, and set aside. |
This drawing illustrates what you will find when you take your knife and cut down along the backbone and ribs to remove flesh and skin. Most of the meat is against the upper part of the ribs, and at the loin (from rump to ribs). |
Between meat and skin will be a layer of fat, more or less of it according to the age and size of the pig. Remove meat from fat, and carve meat into serving portions. Scrape fat from skin, and cut skin into serving strips about 1 inch wide and 3 to 4 inches long. (Shears would be useful here.)
Pull out the exposed rib bones, which will come loose easily. Spread part of stuffing out from cavity of pig, arrange the meat over the stuffing, and cover with strips of skin. If you have chosen brussels sprouts, broccoli, or other decorative vegetables, arrange them attractively around the meat. Redecorate platter with leaves and flowers as necessary, and serve the pig along with its sauce. (The other side of the pig will stay warm for second servings because the skin holds in the heat.)
BEEF, VEAL, PORK, AND LAMB TONGUES
Langues de Boeuf, de Veau, de Porc, et de Mouton
A beautiful beef tongue braising in aromatic sauce smells so good while it is cooking, looks so splendid when you bring it to the table, and makes such a welcome change from the usual fare in main-course dishes that you need have no hesitation at all in serving it for company. Half the price of beef, tongue is all solid meat and therefore something well worth adding to your culinary repertoire. Because beef tongue has the best flavor and texture, we shall concentrate on that; pork, veal, and lamb tongues, which are treated in the same general way, are taken up at the end of this section.
NOTES ON FRESH TONGUE
Fresh beef tongue is perishable: it has a total refrigerated life of only about 8 days. Because it is already several days old when it reaches your market, you should plan to soak and salt it, or boil it, within a day of bringing it home. Because it is perishable, tongue is often smoked or pickled (corned) to preserve it longer, or it may be frozen. Although smoked and pickled tongue may be cooked like fresh tongue, we prefer the taste of fresh tongue, and have so geared our recipes.
HOW TO PREPARE A BEEF TONGUE FOR COOKING—FRESH OR FROZEN
To freshen the tongue, first scrub it with a vegetable brush under warm running water, then let it soak for 2 to 3 hours in a sinkful of cold water. Drain and dry it. (If tongue has been frozen, let it thaw in the cold water, then scrub it, and soak it an hour more.)
Optional salting
To improve flavor and tenderness, as well as to preserve the tongue for several days before cooking, you may salt it. To do so, find an enameled bowl or casserole that will just hold the tongue comfortably, spread a ¼-inch layer of coarse (Kosher) salt in the bottom, and lay the soaked and dried tongue on top. Cover tongue with a ¼-inch layer of salt, and place waxed paper on top. Weight down with a plate and 5 pounds of canned food, for instance, or parts of a meat grinder. Refrigerate at least overnight, but 2 days will have more effect. When you are ready to cook the tongue, wash off the salt. (If you salt the tongue longer than 2 days, soak for 2 to 3 hours in cold water to remove excess salt.)
A NOTE ON COOKING METHODS
Tongue may be either boiled—meaning, of course, simmered slowly—or braised. When it is braised it receives a preliminary boiling until it is ⅔ cooked (2 hours for a 4-pound tongue); it is then peeled, and either braised whole or braised in slices. Whether the tongue is boiled until tender or boiled until ready to peel, the boiling method is the same and so is the peeling. We therefore give directions for each, and follow with recipes, sauces, and serving suggestions for both boiled and braised tongue.
BOILING THE TONGUE—A PRELIMINARY TO BRAISING OR A COMPLETE COOKING
When you are boiling the tongue until tender, you will need aromatic vegetables and herbs to flavor it. Even better would be your decision to make the simple meat stock in Volume I, page 107, or the pot au feu, and let the tongue simmer along in the same kettle, where it will pick up even finer flavor. Tongue that will finish its cooking in a braising stock needs only salted water for this preliminary boiling.
A fully trimmed fresh beef tongue weighing 3¼ to 4 lbs.
A kettle of cold water just large enough to hold tongue easily
If tongue was not macerated in salt: 1½ tsp salt per quart of water
If tongue is to be boiled until tender:
2 cups each of sliced carrots and onions
1 cup sliced celery
A large herb bouquet: 8 parsley sprigs, 1 tsp thyme, 2 imported bay leaves, 4 allspice berries, and 2 unpeeled cloves of garlic, all tied in washed cheesecloth
A cover for the kettle
Prepare the tongue for cooking as described in the preceding pages. Place in kettle, being sure that water covers tongue by 5 inches. (If tongue was not salted, measure water in quarts, adding salt accordingly.) Bring to the simmer; skim off grayish scum for 5 minutes or more, until it ceases to rise. Add vegetables and herb bouquet if you are using them. Set cover askew over kettle, for slight air circulation, and maintain liquid at a slow simmer. If tongue is to be braised, simmer it for 2 hours only. If tongue is to be cooked completely, simmer 3 to 3½ hours or until meat is tender when pierced with a knife. Remove tongue from kettle and proceed immediately to the peeling, next paragraph.
Peeling the tongue
Remove tongue from kettle and plunge it into a basin or sinkful of cold water. As soon as it is cool enough to handle (it should still be warm), slit the nubbly skin-covering all around the top circumference of the tongue. Using your fingers, and a knife if you need one, peel the top surface of the tongue; skin should come off quite easily. The skin on the underside will usually adhere to the meat; make lengthwise slits and remove strips of skin with a knife. Trim any fatty parts and loose bits off the thick underside of the tongue, and pull out any bones that may be buried in the butt end. The tongue is now ready either for braising, if it simmered only 2 hours, or for saucing and serving if it is fully cooked.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not ready to serve a fully cooked tongue, return it to the kettle and remove kettle from heat; tongue will stay warm and retain its juiciness. For tongue that is to be braised, let it cool, then wrap airtight and refrigerate it; you may finish the cooking a day or two later.
LANGUE DE BOEUF, À L’AIGRE-DOUCE
[Boiled Beef Tongue with Sweet-and-Sour Sauce, Pearl Onions, and Raisins]
Because plain boiled tongue is so supremely easy to do, you owe something rather special in the way of a sauce both to the tongue and to those who are about to eat it. Brown sweet-and-sour sauce with pearl onions and raisins is a delicious solution, and more than a dozen other possibilities are listed at the end of the recipe. Accompany the dish with buttered peas or asparagus tips, a purée of chestnuts or mashed potatoes, or French bread, and a red Bordeaux wine.
For 6 to 8 people
1) Boiling the tongue—2 hours of soaking; 3 to 3⅓ hours of boiling
A fully trimmed fresh beef tongue weighing about 4 lbs.
Scrub, soak, and, if you wish, salt the tongue; simmer 3 to 3½ hours until tender, and peel it, as described in the preceding pages. While tongue is cooking, or at any other convenient time beforehand, prepare the following sauce and garniture.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not ready to serve the tongue, keep it warm, reheating it if necessary, in its cooking liquid.
2) Brown mustard sauce with pearl onions and raisins—for 2 cups mirepoix:
For ⅔ cup
3 Tb finely minced onions
3 Tb finely minced carrots
2 Tb finely minced celery
1 Tb finely minced boiled ham
2 Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan with cover
3 cups (10 ounces; 40 to 50) small white pearl onions about ¾ inch in diameter
A pan of boiling water
Cook the diced vegetables and ham slowly in the butter for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring frequently, until tender and just starting to brown. While mirepoix is cooking, drop onions into boiling water, and boil 1 minute to loosen skins; drain, shave off 2 ends, slip off peel, and pierce a cross in the root end of each; set aside.
1 cup dry white wine or ⅔ cup dry white French vermouth
1 cup tongue-cooking stock; more if needed
1 cup rich beef stock or bouillon; more if needed
½ cup currants (small, black, seedless raisins)
1 imported bay leaf
A cover for the pan
Pour the wine or vermouth into the mirepoix and boil down rapidly until reduced by ⅓ of its volume. Then add the cup of tongue stock, the beef stock or bouillon, currants, bay leaf, and peeled onions. Bring to simmer, cover pan, and simmer very slowly for 40 to 60 minutes, or until onions are tender. (Add more liquid if needed; you should end up with about 2 cups.)
3 Tb strong Dijon-type prepared mustard blended to a paste with 1 Tb cornstarch in a small bowl
Salt and pepper
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
When onions are tender, remove from heat; gradually beat about ½ cup of their cooking liquid into the mustard and cornstarch mixture. Fold mixture into onions, and when smoothly blended, return over heat; simmer 2 minutes. Sauce should be lightly thickened. Carefully correct seasoning, and set aside. Reheat just before serving; remove from heat, and fold in the butter, a half tablespoon at a time.
3) Slicing the tongue, and serving
When slicing the tongue, try for even pieces ⅜ inch thick and as uniform in diameter as possible: place the hot tongue on a carving board and cut several vertical slices off the thick end; then, continuing at the thick end, start gradually slicing on the bias, angling the back of your knife progressively down toward the board as you come off the hump; your blade will be almost horizontal as you reach the tip of the tongue.
Either arrange the slices of tongue down the center of a hot, lightly buttered, oval platter, spoon a little sauce with raisins and onions over the tongue, decorate sides with green vegetables, and pass rest of sauce separately, or arrange the slices of tongue against a mound of puréed chestnuts or mashed potatoes, spoon a little sauce over each slice, surround with onions, raisins, and the rest of the sauce, and pass the vegetables separately.
OTHER SAUCES TO SERVE WITH BOILED TONGUE
Tomato sauces, brown sauces, white sauces, and oil and vinegar sauces all go well with boiled tongue. With one exception, these come from Volume I. Use tongue-cooking broth boiled down or fortified, if necessary, with chicken stock or beef bouillon for the liquids called for in the various recipes.
Tomato Sauces
The classic tomato sauce in Volume I on page 76, the excellent Provençal sauce with fresh tomatoes following it, or an alternate using canned tomatoes here in Volume II.
Brown Sauces
Pick any of the brown sauces in Volume I, pages 71 to 76. Particularly recommended are the sauce piquante with pickles and capers, the sauce brune au cari, brown curry sauce, the sauce chasseur with mushrooms, tomatoes, and herbs, and the sauce à l’Italienne with ham and mushrooms.
White Sauces
Sauce au cari—a light curry sauce with onions, cream, and lemon, Volume I, page 63.
Sauce soubise—an excellent onion sauce, to which you may add 2 to 3 tablespoons of chopped capers and minced parsley, if you wish, Volume I, page 64.
Sauce aux câpres, sauce à la moutarde, sauce aux anchors—Caper, Mustard, or Anchovy Sauce, easy to make, and all variations of the mock hollandaise, sauce au beurre, Volume I, page 64.
Oil and Vinegar Sauces
Sauce de Sorges—a delicious and unusual herbal mayonnaise made with shallots, capers, and soft-boiled eggs, Volume I, page 93, for tongue served either hot or cold.
Sauce ravigote—vinaigrette with onions and capers, or the two variations following it, one with sour cream and dill, the other with mustard—all three good for tongue served hot or cold, Volume I, page 95.
LANGUE DE BOEUF BRAISÉE, AU MADÈRE
[Beef Tongue Braised Whole, Madeira Sauce]
When you want a splendid presentation and have an able carver at the table, braise the tongue whole and present it glazed in its sauce and surrounded by a handsome display of vegetables. We suggest a garniture of glazed carrots, onions, and turnips, and whole baby mushrooms—all fresh vegetables, because of their fine taste and texture. A red Bordeaux-Médoc would be your best choice of wine.
For 6 to 8 people
1) Preliminaries to braising—2 hours of soaking; 2 hours of boiling
A fully trimmed fresh beef tongue weighing about 4 lbs.
Follow directions to scrub, soak, salt if you wish, and simmer the tongue for 2 hours; peel it.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: This may be done the day before braising.
2) Braising the tongue—2 hours at 350 to 325 degrees
1 cup each of sliced carrots and onions
¼ cup diced mild-cured boiled ham (such as a supermarket ham slice)
3 Tb butter
A heavy, covered, flame-proof casserole just large enough to hold tongue comfortably
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook vegetables and ham with butter for about 10 minutes in covered casserole over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender and beginning to brown lightly.
Salt and pepper the tongue and place in the casserole, turning and basting it with the vegetables and butter. Cover casserole and let tongue sweat (suer) over moderately low heat for 10 minutes; turn the tongue, baste again, cover casserole, and sweat it 10 minutes more. (If tongue was refrigerated, double the number of minutes.)
⅓ cup dry Madeira (Sercial)
½ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
Optional, to improve flavor and texture of sauce:
A cup or so of chopped or sawed veal knuckle bones and/or beef marrow bones
A piece of blanched pork rind 6 inches square
1 whole washed tomato, unpeeled, roughly chopped
1 large clove of garlic, unpeeled, halved
1 imported bay leaf
½ tsp thyme
1 or more cups rich beef stock or beef bouillon
A sheet of pork rind or beef suet ¼ inch thick and large enough to cover tongue; or washed cheesecloth
Pour the Madeira and the wine or vermouth into the casserole; boil down rapidly until liquid has almost evaporated. Strew optional bones and the pork rind around the tongue, along with the tomato, garlic, and herbs. Pour in enough stock or bouillon to come ⅔ the way up the tongue. Cover tongue with fat or cheesecloth, bring liquid in casserole to the simmer, cover casserole, and set in lower-middle level of preheated oven. In 20 minutes, check to see that liquid in casserole is simmering slowly and steadily; lift fat or cloth and baste tongue rapidly with liquid in casserole. Turn thermostat down to 325 degrees. Baste tongue several times again during cooking, and when it has braised 1 hour, turn on its other side, covering again with fat or cheesecloth. Tongue should be done in 2 to 2½ hours, when a knife will pierce the meat easily; do not overcook. (While tongue is braising, prepare vegetable garnish; although the vegetables may braise with the tongue, we find it easier to cook them separately.)
24 to 32 small fresh white onions 1 to 1¼ inches in diameter
A saucepan of boiling water
A wide (9- to 10-inch) saucepan, chicken fryer, or electric skillet, and a cover for the pan
1 to 1½ cups water
Salt
3 Tb butter
10 to 12 fine, fresh medium-sized carrots, all of a size
10 to 12 firm fresh white turnips all of a size, 2 to 2½ inches in diameter
Drop onions into boiling water, bring rapidly back to the boil for exactly 1 minute; drain. Shave off tops and bottoms, and peel the onions; pierce a cross ⅓ inch deep in the root ends for even cooking. Place in pan with the water, salt, and butter; bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer slowly while preparing the carrots. Rapidly peel the carrots, quarter them lengthwise, cut into 1½-inch lengths, trim off sharp edges, and add to the simmering onions. Then rapidly peel the turnips, quarter them, trim off sharp edges, and add to the pan after onions have cooked 20 minutes. Continue to simmer slowly until vegetables are tender (about 20 minutes longer), adding a little more water if all has evaporated. Correct seasoning, and set aside.
1 quart (about ¾ lb.) fresh button mushrooms (or larger fresh mushrooms, quartered)
A large (11-inch) frying pan
2 Tb butter and ½ Tb cooking oil
2 Tb minced shallots or scallions
Salt and pepper
Trim the mushrooms, wash rapidly, and dry in a towel. Set frying pan over moderately high heat with the butter and oil. When butter foam is beginning to subside, add the mushrooms; sauté 3 to 4 minutes, tossing frequently, shaking and swirling the pan by its handle until mushrooms are just beginning to brown lightly. Toss for a moment with the shallots or scallions, season to taste, scrape into a side dish, and reserve.
4) Sauce and serving
A hot, lightly buttered platter
A sieve set over a saucepan
¼ cup dry Madeira (Sercial)
1 Tb arrowroot (buy at a fancy food shop or in a pharmacy), or cornstarch, in a small bowl
A wire whip and rubber spatula
Salt and pepper
3 to 4 Tb soft butter
Parsley sprigs
When tongue is tender, remove to platter, cover, and keep warm in turned-off oven (or warming oven at 120 degrees) while finishing the sauce. Pour contents of casserole through sieve, pressing juices out of braising ingredients. Skim surface fat off liquid in saucepan, and bring liquid to the simmer, skimming. You should have about 2 cups.
Blend the Madeira into the arrowroot or cornstarch; remove cooking liquid from heat and blend the wine mixture into it. When smooth, return saucepan to heat and fold in the cooked onions, carrots, turnips, and mushrooms along with any of their cooking juices. Simmer, swirling pan by its handle and gently turning vegetables in sauce for 4 to 5 minutes. Sauce should be thick enough to coat the tongue nicely; carefully correct seasoning. Just before serving, fold in the enrichment butter, half a tablespoon at a time, gently basting vegetables with sauce until butter is absorbed.
Arrange the tongue humped side up on the platter, glaze it with spoonfuls of the sauce, and arrange the vegetables around it, basting both tongue and vegetables with remaining sauce. Decorate with parsley sprigs, and serve immediately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not ready to serve when tongue is tender, complete the sauce but omit the final butter enrichment. Return tongue, sauce, and vegetable garnish to casserole; cover tongue again with its fat or cheesecloth, put on casserole cover slightly askew, and set in a 120-degree oven, or over simmering water. Tongue will stay warm safely for a good hour. If sauce has thickened too much when you are ready to serve, thin it out with a little stock or bouillon.
Other sauces, flavorings, garnitures
You may braise tongue with any of the flavorings and garnishings you would use for beef; you might even slice it after its preliminary 2-hour boiling and peeling, re-form it with a mushroom stuffing between each slice, and then braise it, as for the sliced and stuffed tenderloin of beef en feuilletons. The garniture à la bourgeoise, of onions, mushrooms, and olives, would be attractive, as would some of the variations following beef stew. Particularly recommended among these are the pistou and the Provençal flavorings, the pipérade with its peppers and tomatoes, and the final suggestion here, for ginger, capers, and herbs. For any of these suggestions, the general cooking procedure for the tongue follows the same pattern and timing as the Master Recipe; you are simply substituting other flavorings.
TONGUE BRAISED IN SLICES
Tongue is much easier to prepare and serve when you braise it in slices after its preliminary 2-hour boil and its peeling. Sliced tongue cooks in 30 to 40 minutes, the flavor of the sauce penetrates the meat beautifully, and sliced tongue lends itself to prearrangements, precooking, and numerous ahead-of-time maneuvers that are not possible with whole tongue. Using the general method of the following recipe, you can add sliced tongue to cook with the brown mustard sauce, pearl onions, and raisins in the boiled tongue recipe, or use one of the ideas either in the preceding paragraph or in those suggested for boiled tongue.
LANGUE DE BOEUF BRAISÉE, CALCUTTA
[Sliced Fresh Beef Tongue Braised with Curry]
French curry sauce does not have the strong, mouth-searing quality of Indian curry; the French version is more a flavor than an experience, because if the curry were strong it would ruin the accompanying wine. You might serve this tongue on a bed of mashed potatoes, rice, or braised spinach, on a purée of peas or lentils, or on the purée of squash and white beans. Your own fresh French bread could take the place of a second vegetable. For wines, a red Bordeaux would go nicely, or a rather strong dry white like a Hermitage, from the Rhône valley.
For 6 to 8 people
1) Preliminaries to braising—2 hours of soaking; 2 hours of boiling
A fully trimmed fresh beef tongue weighing about 4 lbs.
Follow directions, to scrub, soak, salt if you wish, and simmer the tongue for 2 hours; peel it.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: This may be done the day before braising.
2) The braising sauce
2 cups sliced onions
2 Tb butter and ½ Tb cooking oil (more if needed)
A 10- to 12-inch casserole, chicken fryer, or electric skillet
About 2 Tb fragrant curry powder (depending on its strength and your inclinations)
2 Tb flour
Cook the onions slowly in the butter and oil over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes until tender and translucent but not browned. Blend in the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Blend in the flour, and a little more butter or oil if flour makes too stiff a paste; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes more. Remove from heat.
2 to 3 cups heated meat stock (a combination of beef stock or bouillon and tongue-cooking stock or chicken broth)
A wire whip
1 cup dry white wine or ⅔ cup dry white French vermouth
2 large cloves garlic, mashed
¼ cup currants (small black seedless raisins)
1 peeled and diced sour cooking apple (or an eating apple and 1 Tb lemon juice)
½ tsp thyme
1 imported bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste
When casserole contents have stopped bubbling, pour in 2 cups of the hot stock and blend vigorously into the onions, curry, and flour with wire whip. Pour in the wine or vermouth; add the garlic, currants, diced apple, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to the simmer, stirring, and simmer 2 minutes. Sauce should be lightly thickened. Taste carefully, and correct seasoning.
Cut the peeled tongue into even slices ⅜ inch thick. (Directions for slicing are in Step 3, in the Master Recipe for boiled tongue.) Arrange the slices in the casserole, overlapping as necessary, and baste the tongue with the sauce.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Recipe may be prepared in advance to this point; when cool, cover surface with plastic wrap, a cover, and refrigerate.
Bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer 30 to 40 minutes, tilting casserole and basting tongue several times with the sauce. When tender if pierced with a fork, meat is done, but do not overcook; eat a piece if you have any doubts about its being done.
4) Serving
A hot, lightly buttered serving platter
Optional: ⅓ to ½ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Salt, pepper, and drops of lemon juice
1 to 3 Tb soft butter
A hot gravy bowl
If needed: fresh minced parsley
When tongue is done, arrange the hot slices on the platter (or over a bed of vegetables if you wish); cover and keep warm while you finish the sauce. You should have 1½ to 2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon nicely. Stir in optional cream; boil down if sauce is too thin or, conversely, add a little more stock if it seems too thick. Taste carefully, stirring in more salt, pepper, and drops of lemon juice if you feel them necessary. Just before serving, remove sauce from heat, and swish in the enrichment butter a half tablespoon at a time. Spoon hot sauce over the slices of tongue, and pour rest of sauce into hot serving bowl. (You may strain the sauce; the onions and optional raisins, however, give it an attractive informal look and texture.) Decorate tongue with parsley, if you wish, and serve immediately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You may complete the sauce except for the final butter enrichment; return tongue slices to sauce, and baste them with it. Reheat to bubbling hot before serving, but be careful not to overcook the tongue.
VEAL, PORK, AND LAMB TONGUES
Veal, pork, and lamb tongues have the same consistency as beef tongue, and although they do not have quite the same fine flavor you may substitute them for beef tongue in any of the preceding recipes. Braising is particularly recommended, because the braising stock adds the flavor that these tongues lack. Here are notes on each.
VEAL TONGUES
Weights and measures. These will weigh 6 to 8 ounces on the average, and will be 5 to 6 inches long, although tongues from large carcasses can weigh up to 1¼ pounds. Count on one 6- to 8-ounce tongue per person, or 2 tongues for 3 people.
Preparation for cooking. Scrub, soak, and, if you wish, salt the tongues exactly as directed for beef tongue.
Preliminary boiling, and peeling. Simmer the tongues for 45 minutes (1 hour for large tongues) in salted water, refresh briefly in cold water, and peel as described for beef tongue.
Cooking methods. Braise the tongues whole, or cut in half lengthwise, following the beef-tongue recipes and variations. Braising time will be about 1½ hours.
PORK TONGUES
Weights and measures. Pork tongues weigh ¾ to 1 pound, and are 8 to 9 inches long. Count on 1 tongue for each 2 people, or 2 large tongues for 5 people.
Preparation, boiling, peeling, and cooking methods. Follow preceding directions for veal tongues.
LAMB TONGUES
Weights and measures. 3 to 4 ounces each, and 3 to 4 inches long. Count on 2 tongues per person, or 1½ to 2 if the tongues are cut in two lengthwise.
Preparation, boiling, peeling, and cooking methods. Follow directions for veal tongues, but the final braising will probably be 45 minutes to 1 hour only.
TRIPE
Tripes
Those who love tripe speak of it with passionate enjoyment and will travel miles to dine upon it. Like scrapple and head cheese, it is a rather old-fashioned taste—a fragrant, earthy reminder of the past when every edible morsel of the beast was used. Many people today who have heard of tripe have neither seen nor eaten it, but our forefathers consumed it with relish. The Parker House in Boston became famous throughout the nation for its fried tripe, and the fine Parisian restaurant, Pharamond, in the heart of the old markets, Les Halles, made its reputation serving steaming bowls of tripes à la mode de Caen, a recipe you will find in so many cookbooks that we shall not repeat it again here. Instead, we present a much simpler dish from Provence, and one that we like immensely: the tripe first cooks to a golden yellow with onions, then finishes off in an aromatic mixture of tomatoes, wine, and herbs. If you are one of those who has never tried tripe before, yet enjoys new foods and new tastes, we think you will find this a happy introduction.
HOW TO BUY TRIPE
There are four kinds of beef tripe, and any or all may be used in any recipe, but the only one usually available in American markets today is honeycomb tripe (bonnet, in French). Although you can buy it canned, frozen, and fully cooked, or pickled, we are interested here only in ready-to-cook tripe. This means that it has been scraped, washed, blanched, often bleached, and is, in fact, ready for cooking. You will probably find it in a sealed plastic bag under refrigeration in the meat section, and it will look like a soft, pale, rubbery pouch with a honeycomb pattern on its surface. It will be labeled “fresh honeycomb tripe”; do not mistake it for pickled tripe, which will look the same but will be labeled “pickled tripe.” Some markets do not carry tripe at all because there is no demand for it; it depends on the eating habits in your shopping area. Fresh tripe is perishable; plan to cook it within a day or two of buying it.
PRELIMINARIES TO PREPARING READY-TO-COOK AMERICAN TRIPE
Although some cooks do not blanch fresh ready-to-cook tripe, we find that blanching freshens the flavor and we suggest the following preliminaries to cooking. Wash the tripe thoroughly under cold, running water. Then place it in a large saucepan or kettle, and cover by 3 inches with cold water; bring to the boil, and boil slowly 5 minutes. Drain, run cold water into the pan, soak the tripe for several minutes, drain, and blanch again for 5 minutes. Repeat the process a third time, and the tripe is ready to cook.
A NOTE ON FRENCH TRIPE AND EUROPEAN-STYLE TRIPE
In France, tripe is bought chez le tripier, who sells cleaned and blanched tripe of all four varieties. Gras double, a term you will run into in French recipes and at la triperie itself, can mean either the heaviest and meatiest of the four, la panse, or gras double can mean the four varieties rolled together fully cooked, and needing only to be reheated in whatever sauce you plan to use. Ready-to-cook French tripe, on the other hand, should be soaked several hours or overnight in several changes of cold water, then blanched as directed in the preceding paragraph. Some European-style butchers in this country prepare tripe as the French do, and you should treat it in the same way.
Because you will occasionally run into them in French recipes, the technical names for beef tripe are as follows: First stomach, rumen, or paunch—panse or gras double. Second stomach, reticulum, or honeycomb tripe—bonnet. Third stomach, omasum, psalterium, or manyplies—feuillet or franche mule. Fourth stomach, abomasum, or reed—caillette or millet.
TRIPES À LA NIÇOISE
[Tripe Baked with Onions, Tomatoes, Wine, and Provençal Seasonings]
As an alternate to tripes à la mode de Caen, we find this a wonderfully satisfying recipe. The tripe is cooked several hours just with onions; then tomatoes, other flavorings, and wine go in for another session of slow, penetrating simmer. You could, if you wished, finish off the recipe in another way after the onion-cooking session, or pick the tripe out of its tomato sauce at the end of the recipe here, broil or deep-fry it, and serve the tomato sauce on the side. We shall leave these possibilities up to you, and present the recipe in its own straightforward way. Serve boiled rice or boiled potatoes with the tripe. No green vegetable is needed, but a salad could follow. For wines, we suggest a strong, dry white like a Mâcon or Hermitage, or a young red like Beaujolais, or a strong, dry rosé like Tavel.
For 6 people
1) Preliminary cooking of tripe and onions—2 to 2½ hours
Optional, for additional flavor: 4 or 5 slices, ¼ inch thick, of fat-and-lean fresh pork belly or blanched bacon
½ cup olive oil
A heavy, 4- to 5-quart covered casserole (earthenware preferred for looks, and for heat-holding properties)
4 cups sliced onions
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cut optional pork or bacon into 2-inch lengths. Cook slowly without browning in the oil for 5 minutes to render some of the fat. Then stir in the onions, cover the casserole, and cook onions slowly 10 minutes or more, stirring frequently, until tender but not at all browned.
2½ to 3 lbs. ready-to-cook tripe (see notes preceding recipe)
Heavy shears
1 tsp salt
A round of waxed paper
A piece of aluminum foil
While onions are cooking, cut tripe into strips 2 inches wide; cut the strips into triangles about 3 inches on the long side. When onions are ready, fold the tripe into them, along with the salt. Lay a round of waxed paper over tripe to keep it from browning, drape foil over top of casserole to keep in the steam, and place casserole cover on top of foil. Set in middle level of preheated oven, and bake slowly for 2½ hours, regulating thermostat so that tripe cooks very slowly and steadily but does not brown. When time is up, tripe will be a golden yellow.
2) Finishing the cooking, and serving—2 to 2½ hours
2 cups fresh tomato pulp (6 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped), or a combination of fresh pulp and canned, drained, sieved Italian plum tomatoes
4 large cloves garlic, mashed or minced
1 cup dry white wine, or dry white French vermouth
To thicken cooking liquid: an 8-inch square of blanched pork rind (Volume I, page 401) and/or 1 to 2 cups chopped veal knuckle bones tied in washed cheesecloth
The following tied in washed cheesecloth:
6 peppercorns
6 allspice berries
1 tsp fennel seeds
A 3-inch piece of dried orange peel, or 1 tsp bottled peel
1 tsp thyme
1 imported bay leaf
1 to 2 cups veal stock, or beef stock or bouillon
Salt as needed
Optional, to be added last ½ hour of cooking: ½ cup black, Mediterranean-type olives, pitted, and blanched 10 minutes
Fold the tomatoes and garlic into the tripe; pour in the wine. Bury the pork rind and bones in the tripe, and the packet of seasonings. (Remove these later, when tripe is done.) Pour in enough stock just to cover ingredients. Bring to simmer on top of stove, and salt lightly to taste. Cover tripe again with the waxed paper, foil, and casserole cover, and return to oven for another 2 hours of slow simmering. Test tripe by eating a piece; it should be tender enough to chew easily, but should still have some texture. Skim off surface fat; carefully correct seasoning. Bake half an hour, an hour, or longer, until tripe is of the desired consistency. (Add a little more white wine or stock if liquid has evaporated too much. Stir in optional olives about half an hour before estimated end of cooking.)
Serve bubbling hot from casserole onto very hot plates.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTES: Tripe may be cooked several days in advance of serving, and reheats perfectly.
RABBIT
Lapin
Rabbit, if you have never tried it, is very much like chicken in taste and texture, but the meat is firmer and therefore does very well in a stew. Most rabbit stews are called sautés in French, and the recipe you usually encounter is sauté de lapin au vin blanc, in which the pieces of rabbit are browned in the pan, seasoned, floured, and simmered in white wine with onions, mushrooms, and lardons of bacon. Rather than repeating this too-familiar version, we give a red wine stew.
BUYING RABBIT AND PREPARING IT FOR COOKING
In many parts of the country you can now buy an excellent quality of frozen young rabbit “fryers,” cut up and all ready for cooking as soon as you have defrosted the pieces. If fresh frying rabbit is available, have it cut so that the forelegs are disjointed from the body at the shoulder, the hind legs at the hip, and the rib section separated from the loin. Then separate the hind legs at the knee, to make 2 pieces; cut the loin (rable) and the rib sections in two crosswise, and if you wish, trim off with scissors the lower part of the ribs, which is mostly bone.
Cut up this way, you will have 10 pieces, the choicest of which are the second joints and the 2 pieces of loin; the 1 front legs are second best, and the rib sections have the least meat. (In Europe and in some parts of this country, the head and neck also make part of the stew.) Use the liver and heart like chicken liver, or you may wish to add it to the stew.
Two and a half pounds of cut-up ready-to-cook rabbit will serve 4 to 5 people.
TO THAW FROZEN RABBIT
Let it defrost for 24 hours in the refrigerator, or defrost it in a wine marinade as suggested in the following recipe.
LAPIN AU SAUPIQUET
[Rabbit Marinated in Vinegar and Herbs, and Stewed in Red Wine]
This French recipe is very much like the German hasenpfeffer, in that both use a wine-vinegar marinade before the stew begins; this tenderizes the rabbit as well as giving it an excellent flavor. Serve the rabbit with parslied potatoes, buttered noodles, or steamed and buttered rice, and a simple green vegetable such as the sautéed zucchini, buttered broccoli, or green beans. A full red wine is definitely the type to choose—a Hermitage, Côtes-du-Rhône, or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
For 4 to 5 people
1) Marinating the rabbit—at least 24 hours
½ to ⅔ cup red wine vinegar (amount depending on strength)
½ tsp cracked peppercorns
3 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
½ cup sliced onions
2 large cloves of garlic, unpeeled, halved
4 juniper berries
½ tsp Oregano
1 imported bay leaf
12 tsp thyme
An enameled or stainless bowl or casserole large enough to hold rabbit comfortably
2½ lbs. cut-up ready-to-cook frying rabbit, fresh or frozen
A bulb baster
If you are using imported French vinegar, ⅔ cup would be right; if domestic wine vinegar seems strong and harsh, use ½ cup. Mix the rest of the ingredients with the vinegar in the bowl, add the rabbit, and baste with the marinade. (If rabbit is frozen, let it defrost in the bowl at room temperature, basting frequently, and pulling pieces apart from each other when possible, until completely defrosted.) Cover bowl and refrigerate it, basting and turning the rabbit occasionally. Marinate at least 24 hours, although you can leave the rabbit safely for 2 or 3 days because the marinade also preserves the meat.
½ cup (4 ounces) lardons (1½-inch sticks ¼ inch thick of bacon blanched 10 minutes in 1 quart water)
2 Tb olive oil or cooking oil, more if needed
A large (11-inch) frying pan (no-stick recommended)
1 cup sliced onions
A heavy, covered, flameproof casserole large enough to hold rabbit pieces easily
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Brown the lardons lightly with oil in the pan over moderate heat. Then stir in the onions, and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until onions are tender and lightly browned. Transfer onions and lardons to the casserole with a slotted spoon, leaving fat in pan.
The rabbit and its marinade
Paper towels
Salt and pepper
Optional: the rabbit’s liver, quartered, seasoned, and floured
3 Tb flour
While onions are cooking, remove rabbit from marinade, and dry thoroughly with paper towels; reserve the marinade. When onions are out of pan, add more oil if necessary, so that pan is filmed by ⅛ inch, raise heat to moderately high, and brown the rabbit pieces nicely on all sides. Season with salt and pepper, and add the rabbit to the casserole. (Brown optional liver at the same time, and set aside for later.) Sprinkle on half the flour, toss rabbit in casserole, sprinkle on rest of flour, and toss again.
Heat casserole to sizzling on top of stove, then set uncovered in upper third of preheated 450-degree oven for 5 minutes; toss again, and return casserole to oven for 5 minutes more. (The oven is an easier way to brown and cook the flour than sauteing on top of the stove; but if you do not wish to use your oven, you may sauté.)
The marinade
1 bottle of full-bodied, young, red wine (Mâcon, Côtes-du-Rhône, Mountain Red)
2 cups beef or veal stock, or beef bouillon
While casserole is in oven, pour the browning fat out of the frying pan, pour in the marinade, and boil down until liquid has almost evaporated. Pour in the wine, boil down to half its volume, then add the bouillon, bring to the boil, and set aside.
Remove casserole from oven and add the hot wine and bouillon mixture, stirring rabbit pieces, onions, and lardons so that all is well blended.
Bring contents of casserole to the simmer on top of the stove, cover and simmer slowly either on the stove or in a preheated 350-degree oven; regulate heat in either case so that stew bubbles slowly and regularly throughout the cooking, and baste rabbit pieces several times with the sauce. Rabbit should be done in about 1 hour, when the meat is tender if pierced with a knife. (While rabbit is stewing, prepare prunes in Step 4.)
4) Sauce and serving
A hot, lightly buttered, serving platter
Stock or bouillon if needed
20 to 25 large, tenderized prunes, simmered 10 to 15 minutes in ¼ cup Cognac, ½ cup bouillon, and 2 Tb butter
The optional sautéed liver pieces from Step 2
Optional: 8 to 10 croûtons or fleurons (triangles of white bread sautéed in clarified butter; puff pastry crescents)
Fresh parsley sprigs
When rabbit pieces are tender, arrange them on the serving platter, cover, and keep warm while finishing the sauce. Remove bay leaf, and skim surface fat off braising sauce. Bring to the simmer, skimming. You should have 1½ to 2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon nicely; thin out with stock or bouillon if too thick, or boil down rapidly if too thin. Then add the prunes with their liquid, and the optional liver; simmer 2 to 3 minutes, and carefully correct seasoning. Spoon the sauce and prunes over the rabbit, decorate with croûtons or fleurons and parsley sprigs, and serve.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not ready to serve, return rabbit to casserole, baste with sauce, and reheat later.
CHAPTER FOUR
Chickens, Poached and Sauced—and a Coq en Pâte
WHEN BROILING AND FRYING CHICKENS are among our most reasonably priced meats today, it is hard to realize that great-great-grandmother’s, or even great-grandmother’s, Sunday chicken was a luxurious treat, since chicken was expensive in those days. To have it so accessible now is a great boon to the cook, because you can prepare it in such a vast number of ways. Volume I takes up roasting, casserole roasting, sautés, fricassees, coq au vin, and chicken breasts, as well as details on chicken types and qualities, trussing directions, and timing charts. There is not a word, however, about one of the easiest and most delicious ways to cook chicken—poaching in white wine. The chicken practically cooks itself, produces its own sauce base, and can be served in numerous ways from very plain to extremely elegant.
We start out with chicken in pieces, taking it from the simple wine stew through a cheese casserole, an aspic, a chaud-froid, and finally a bouillabaisse and a bourride. For more formal chickens, there is a roaster or capon poached whole in white wine and aromatic vegetables, plus various stuffings and white-wine sauces; an illustrated guide to boning follows; and we conclude with a glamorous coq en pâte with the whimsical title poularde en soutien-gorge.
CHICKEN IN PIECES
How fortunate we are to have chicken in pieces—those who like dark meat may feast upon thighs, white-meat-only people are welcome to breasts, while wings at half price make lovely finger food when the budget is low.
PREPARING READY-CUT CHICKEN FOR COOKING
Rather than being disjointed, meaning that thighs are removed from backbones at the connecting ball joints and wings from shoulders in the same fashion, most supermarket ready-cut chicken is done with a meat saw which neatly halves or quarters the chicken in a matter of seconds. This saving of man-hours is passed on to us, of course, in reasonable prices for chicken but does leave us with some unwanted bones and bits. If these do not bother you, simply wash the chicken under cold running water, dry in paper towels, and proceed to the cooking. If you have time for surgery, however, you can make the chicken easier to cook, especially for sautés and fricassees but also for poaching, because the pieces will lie flatter and take up less room; in addition, they will be far easier to eat. You will also have some useful scraps for chicken stock. The illustrated goose will help you locate bones and joints because goose and chicken have the same bone structure; see also the illustrated semiboned chicken. Here, then, is how to trim the various pieces of chicken.
Drumsticks and second joints (legs and thighs)
When drumsticks and second joints come joined together, the thigh bone is usually attached to the hip, making a clumsy piece of chicken—the hip should be off. On the hip, however, at either side of its attachment to the ball joint of the thigh, are two nuggets of meat, the oysters, which should remain part of the second joint: scrape this meat from the hip bone up to and around the joint, leaving meat attached to joint. Then bend and cut joint free from the piece of hip: this is picky work because the hip bone is small, but it is really worth the trouble. Then, to make the second joint even more attractive, scrape meat away from this same ball joint, and whack off its bulbous end with your chopping knife. In French cooking, the drumstick is separated from the second joint: flex the two pieces to locate ball joint at knee, and cut through it to separate drumstick from second joint.
Breast-wing sections
The breast-wing sections (or wingless breasts) usually come already split so that you have one whole side in one piece, and another whole side as the other piece. On the bone-and-flesh side you may see the long ridge of the breastbone, if it was left in that half, running the length of the thick portion of the meat. Below it is the rest of the breastbone and below that the cross-hatch of ribs; attached to the ribs you may find a piece of the backbone. Again, this is a clumsy piece to cook as is, but easy to trim.
If the wing has been left on, you will be able to make 2 full servings out of the breast by cutting it in the French manner, meaning that the lower third of the breast meat remains attached to the wing as follows: Set the breast in front of you, skin-side up and top of breast (long side with thickest meat) away from you. We shall suppose that you have a left breast with the wing on the right. By wiggling the wing, locate with your finger where the ball joint of its upper arm attaches to the shoulder. Then make a semicircular cut through the skin and breast meat, starting at the lower left side of the long end facing you and ending at the shoulder joint. Scrape meat from rib bones the length of the cut (scraping toward you, not toward the thick side of the meat), separate wing at shoulder by cutting through ball joint, and free the wing with its strip of breast meat. With shears, cut the bony nubbin off the elbow of the wing; trim off rib bones from main part of breast along with backbone if it is attached. For a right-sided breast use the same system, but you may find it is easier to set the breast in front of you lengthwise, the wing end facing you and the thick part of the meat to your left.
Wingless breasts will be improved when you scrape the lower third of the flesh from the ribs at the long thin side, and cut off ribs at this point; the breast will then lie flatter.
Save all scraps for chicken stock
Even a small handful of scraps and bones are worth boiling up with a bit of onion, celery, carrot, a bay leaf, pinch of salt, and water to cover. Full directions for chicken stock are in Volume I, pages 236–7.
HOW MUCH TO BUY
We shall arbitrarily call for 2½ pounds of ready-cut frying chicken to serve 4 people in the following recipes, but you would normally buy by eye—the equivalent of 1 whole breast half with wing or 1 drumstick-second joint per serving is usually sufficient. The total weight will probably be between 2 and 2½ pounds, depending on the weight of the frying chicken and on what pieces you buy.
POULET POCHÉ AU VIN BLANC
[Chicken Pieces Poached in White Wine, Herbs, and Aromatic Vegetables]
This very simple, basic poach can be even simpler if you are on a fat-free diet: rather than cooking the vegetables in butter, simmer them 15 minutes in chicken stock before you add the chicken and the wine. Butter does seem to bring out more of their flavor, however. Because the vegetables cook along with the chicken and are served with it you could precede or follow the chicken with fresh artichokes or asparagus. You then need nothing more for the chicken course than steamed rice, a parsley garnish, and either more of the same white wine that cooked with the chicken, or a red Bordeaux, or a rosé.
For 4 people
1) Sautéing the vegetables
2 medium-sized carrots
1 medium-sized onion and the white part of 1 leek (or 2 onions)
3 medium-sized celery stalks
3 Tb butter
A heavy 3-quart flameproof casserole with cover (such as a round terra cotta one, 9 by 3 inches, set on an asbestos mat)
(This step is optional: see preceding paragraph.) Peel the carrots and onion; quarter leek lengthwise and wash; trim and wash celery. Depending on what effect you want, cut the vegetables either into thin slices or into julienne matchsticks 1½ inches long. Cook slowly with the butter in the covered casserole over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender but not browned—about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the chicken, Step 2.
2) Poaching the chicken
2½ lbs. ready-cut frying chicken, washed, dried, and trimmed, if you wish, according to directions preceding this recipe
Salt
1½ cups dry white wine, or 1 cup dry white French vermouth
About 2 cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth
The following herbs tied in washed cheesecloth:
Either ½ tsp tarragon;
Or ½ imported bay leaf, ¼ tsp thyme, and 4 parsley sprigs
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to 325 degrees if you wish to use it. Prepare the chicken for cooking, salt lightly, and arrange in the casserole, spreading the cooked vegetables around and over it. Cover casserole and let chicken sweat for 10 minutes over moderate heat, turning it once. (Omit this step if you are not sautéing vegetables in butter.) Then pour in the wine or vermouth and enough chicken stock or broth barely to cover the chicken. Bury the herb packet in the chicken, and bring casserole to the simmer. Taste, and salt lightly if necessary.
Cover the casserole and regulate heat to maintain liquid at a slow, quiet simmer either on top of the stove or in a preheated 325-degree oven. (NOTE: Poaching means slow cooking, so that chicken pieces will retain their shape, and will be tender; boiling not only toughens the meat, but also warps its contour.) Dark meat of chicken will take 20 to 25 minutes; light meat, probably 5 minutes less and should be removed when done, if you have mixed dark and light together. Juices, when either dark or light meat is pricked deeply, should run clear yellow, with no trace of rose, and meat should feel tender when pierced. Do not overcook, however.
3) Serving
Tilt casserole and skim off surface fat; taste liquid and correct seasoning. Discard herb bouquet. Either serve directly from casserole, or arrange the chicken and vegetables on a bed of steamed rice, decorate with parsley, and pass the cooking liquid separately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you aren’t ready to serve, chicken will keep perfectly for a good hour. Skim off surface fat, and correct seasoning, then set casserole cover slightly askew for air circulation; keep warm in a 120-degree oven, on a hot-tray, or over barely simmering water.
VARIATIONS
Stewing Chicken—Fowl
A fine stewing chicken 10 to 12 months old, as it is supposed to be when you buy from a reputable market, does beautifully when poached in white wine. Use the same general system as in the preceding Master Recipe with the following slight changes.
If the chicken has not been cut up for you and you wish to do so yourself, follow the directions for goose. Reserve neck, back, gizzard, and heart as well as all scraps; place them in the bottom of the casserole to cook along with the chicken and give additional flavor to the broth. Mature chickens have much more flavor than young fryers, and you need only wine and water for the cooking stock. Stewing time will be about 2½ hours, or until the meat is tender when pierced with a knife. Because the vegetables will have cooked this length of time, they will not be of further use; if you want vegetables to cook and serve with the chicken, add a fresh batch before end of cooking time.
Serve the chicken on a bed of steamed rice or risotto, and you may turn its cooking stock into a cream sauce as suggested for whole poached chicken or one of its variations. You may gratiné the chicken in cheese sauce, as in the recipe, or change the seasonings altogether by simmering the chicken in bouillabaisse flavorings.
Poulet en Gelée
Chicken poached in white wine makes delicious chicken in aspic, and you may be as elegant as the formal recipe in Volume I, page 549, where the chicken is arranged on an aspic-lined platter; each piece is coated with aspic and tarragon leaves, chopped aspic fills in the empty spaces, and aspic cutouts abound. On the other hand, you may be much less formal and just as attractive but in a different way, with either of the two following arrangements. (NOTE: In neither of these is the cooking stock clarified—rendered clear and sparkling with egg whites; if you wish to clarify it, however, directions are in Volume I, page 111.)
A sieve set over a saucepan
A quart measure
Chicken broth if needed 1½ packages (1½ Tb) plain, unflavored, powdered gelatin
Salt and pepper
Set cover askew over casserole and drain out cooking liquid into the saucepan. Skim off surface fat and pour liquid into quart measure; skim again, and pour in additional stock, if necessary, to make 3 cups. Return liquid to saucepan, sprinkle on the gelatin, and let it soften for several minutes. Then stir over moderate heat until gelatin has completely dissolved and liquid is free of gelatin granules. Taste, and correct seasoning.
Rearrange chicken attractively with vegetables, either in the same casserole or in a serving bowl or dish that will just hold the pieces. Pour on the cooking stock and chill several hours, or until gelatin has set; scrape any congealed fat from surface, and chicken is ready to serve.
Molded aspic
You may wish to unmold the chicken onto a platter rather than serve it from a bowl or casserole. Use the same method as in the preceding recipe, but you may need more jellied stock—proportions are 1 envelope (1 tablespoon) gelatin for each 2 cups of stock. Use a decorative metal mold, a metal cake pan, or even a bread pan; pour in a ⅛-inch layer of jellied stock and chill until set. Then arrange the chicken and vegetables attractively in the mold or pan, and chill 20 minutes, or until remaining stock is cold, almost syrupy, and on the point of setting; immediately pour it over the chicken. Chill several hours or overnight to set the gelatin completely. To unmold, first scrape off any surface fat, then dip mold or pan for 4 to 5 seconds in very hot water, rapidly run a knife around edge of aspic, turn a chilled platter upside down over mold, and reverse the two. If aspic does not dislodge itself in a minute or two, repeat the process. Keep chilled until serving time, then decorate platter with lettuce, watercress, parsley, or appropriate vegetables.
NOTE: A more formal method for lining a mold with aspic is in Volume I, page 558, but would only be necessary if you were using clarified jellied stock.
Poulet Mornay, Gratiné
[Poached Chicken Pieces Gratinéed with Cheese Sauce]
When you want a casserole of chicken that you may prepare ahead for a party, this is a useful dish. After the chicken has poached, the cooking liquid is turned into a cheese sauce, which then enrobes the chicken in a baking dish; reheat and brown in the oven when the time comes. Serve this with steamed rice or buttered pasta, and either a simply done green vegetable such as buttered broccoli, peas, or asparagus tips, or a salad. White Burgundy wine would be good here, or a red Bordeaux.
Follow method and ingredients for chicken poached in white wine, Master Recipe, Steps 1 and 2. When chicken is done proceed as follows.
The cheese sauce—sauce Mornay—for 2½ cups
A sieve set over a saucepan
3½ Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed 2-quart enameled, no-stick, or stainless saucepan
¼ cup flour (measure by scooping dry-measure cup into flour and sweeping off excess with a knife)
A wooden spoon and a wire whip
Set cover askew and drain cooking liquid out of casserole. Skim off surface fat, and bring liquid to simmer, skimming. You should have about 2½ cups; boil down rapidly, if necessary. Meanwhile, make a white roux and a velouté sauce as follows: melt butter in saucepan, blend in flour, and stir over moderate heat with a wooden spoon until flour and butter foam together for 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat, and as soon as roux stops bubbling, pour in all of the hot chicken-cooking liquid at once, blending vigorously with a wire whip.
Return sauce over moderately high heat, and stir with wire whip as sauce thickens and comes to the boil. Boil, stirring, for 2 minutes, and remove from heat. Sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon nicely; if too thin, boil down rapidly and if too thick, thin with milk, stock, or cream. Let cool for several minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent top from crusting while you prepare for the next step.
Final assembly
A buttered gratin dish that will hold the chicken comfortably (such as a 9- by 12-inch oval 2 inches deep)
About 3 ounces (¾ cup loosely packed) coarsely grated Swiss cheese
Salt and pepper
Speck of nutmeg
1 to 2 Tb melted butter
When you have buttered the dish, and grated and measured the cheese, fold all but 3 to 4 tablespoons of the cheese into the sauce. Taste, and correct seasoning as necessary with salt, pepper, and a speck of nutmeg. Smooth a thin layer of sauce in the bottom of the dish, and arrange the chicken over it, including the vegetables, if you wish.
Spoon the rest of the sauce over the chicken, masking each piece completely. Spread on the cheese, and sprinkle melted butter over the cheese.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be prepared a day in advance to this point; when cold, cover and refrigerate.
When both chicken and sauce are hot, and you are serving almost immediately, set dish 3 or 4 inches from a moderately hot broiler and let topping brown slowly while contents of dish come to the bubble; you may then keep chicken warm for half an hour or so at 120 degrees, but be very careful not to let it overcook and lose the delicious quality of freshly cooked chicken.
When chicken has been refrigerated, set dish in upper third of a preheated 375-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until top has browned nicely and contents are bubbling hot. Again, be careful not to overcook.
Chaud-froid de Poulet, Morvandelle
[Chicken in Chaud-froid—a Cold Dish]
A simple chicken poached in white wine with aromatic vegetables can very easily be transformed into a dressy chaud-froid when you enrich the poaching broth with cream and egg yolks, which will thicken the broth just enough as it cools to enrobe the chicken pieces with a yellow-ivory cloak. Light, creamy, with a lovely texture and flavor, yet no trace of flour or gelatin, this is by far the most attractive chaud-froid we know. Serve it with cold vegetables or a tossed salad, French bread, and a chilled Chablis, Riesling, or Gewürtztraminer.
Poach the chicken in wine and aromatic vegetables using the method and ingredients in the Master Recipe, Steps 1 and 2. When chicken is done, continue as follows.
The chaud-froid sauce—for 2 cups
A sieve set over a heavy-bottomed 2-quart enameled or stainless saucepan
6 egg yolks in a mixing bowl
A wire whip, a ladle, and a wooden spoon
1 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Salt, white pepper, and drops of lemon juice
Set cover askew, and drain chicken-cooking stock out of casserole into saucepan. Skim off surface fat, bring liquid to the simmer, skimming, then boil down rapidly until reduced to 1½ cups. Beat the egg yolks and cream to blend. Still beating, gradually ladle in driblets of the hot chicken-cooking liquid. When half has gone in, gradually beat the creamy mixture into the remaining chicken-cooking liquid in the saucepan.
Set pan over moderate heat and stir slowly and continuously with wooden spoon, reaching all over bottom of pan, for 5 to 6 minutes, or until sauce thickens enough to film spoon with a creamy layer. (Be careful sauce does not come near the simmer and curdle the egg yolks; however, you must heat it to the point where it thickens.)
Immediately remove from heat, and stir vigorously for 1 minute to cool slightly and stop the cooking. Taste very carefully, adding salt, white pepper, and drops of lemon juice; sauce should be quite highly seasoned because flavor becomes somewhat subdued in a cold dish. Shortly before coating chicken, set saucepan in a large bowl of cold water and ice cubes; stir frequently until sauce is cool and has begun to thicken. Meanwhile, prepare the chicken for the next step.
Final assembly and serving
A chilled shallow serving dish, just large enough to hold chicken easily
For decoration:
Either minced fresh tarragon, parsley sprigs, or watercress;
Or 1 or 2 truffles to mince and stir into the sauce with the juices from the can;
Or a fluted mushroom cap to top each piece of chicken (Volume I, pages 510–11, for fluting and cooking)
Peel the skin off each piece of chicken, removing as much as you easily can without tearing the meat. Arrange chicken in dish. (If you are stirring truffles into sauce, do so now.) Spoon a thin layer of sauce over each piece, using about ⅓ of the sauce at this point. Cover chicken and chill for 15 to 20 minutes (or longer). When sauce has set on chicken and you are ready to continue, re-warm the remaining sauce briefly, only enough to liquefy it. Beat with wire whip until perfectly smooth, and spoon it over the chicken to mask each piece completely. Cover chicken with a bowl and chill.
Remove chicken from refrigerator about half an hour before serving (unless weather is too hot), to take off the chill; decorate as you wish with any of the elements suggested.
Waterzooi de Poulet
[Chicken Poached in White Wine and a Julienne of Vegetables, Cream, and Egg-yolk Sauce]
The preceding chaud-froid turns out to be an almost exact replica of the famous Belgian bouillabaisse of chicken, waterzooi. The Belgian dish is served hot, however, and the sauce is more like a soup—a waterzooi is ladled into deep plates, and you eat it with a knife, fork, and soup spoon. Although its general method is almost identical to that of the chaud-froid, as well as the poulet en bourride, the recipe will be easier for you to follow when you have the full details for its sauce and serving even if it means repeating familiar instructions. Accompany the waterzooi with boiled potatoes, French bread, and a white Graves or Burgundy. It is a separate course, and a rich one—precede with a cold vegetable or something like the salade Niçoise in Volume I, page 542, and follow with fresh fruit, a fruit tart, or a sherbet.
SHOWMANSHIP
In the fine Brussels restaurants where this dish is served, the chicken is poached whole; the maître d’hôtel carves it in front of you, and warms the pieces of chicken in the sauce while you savor its delicious perfume. If you can carve like a master and enjoy the drama of table-top cooking, by all means poach the chicken whole; carve it at the table, and make the sauce as described here, but in a chafing dish.
For 4 people
Follow the Master Recipe for chicken pieces poached in white wine, Steps 1 and 2, but cut the aromatic vegetables into julienne matchsticks for Step 1. When chicken is done, continue as follows.
Sauce and serving
If needed: more chicken broth
6 egg yolks in a mixing bowl
A wire whip and a ladle
1 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Salt and white pepper
2 Tb rather roughly chopped fresh parsley
If you wish, a serving casserole or a soup tureen
Wide soup plates
(You should have 2½ to 3 cups of cooking stock for the sauce; add extra broth if necessary.) When you are ready to serve, beat the egg yolks and cream to blend; continue beating, and ladle in driblets of the hot chicken-cooking liquid until about 1 cup has gone in. Remove casserole from heat; swirling it with one hand, gradually pour creamy mixture back over chicken. Taste carefully, and correct seasoning.
Set casserole over moderate heat and continue to swirl it slowly for 4 to 5 minutes, until sauce thickens into a light cream as the egg yolks gradually poach in the mixture; you must be very careful here not to heat the sauce too much or it will turn granular as the egg yolks scramble, but you must heat it to the point where it thickens. Serve immediately, either from casserole or turned into a tureen; decorate with parsley.
The chicken and sauce, which is more like a cream soup, are ladled into soup plates, along with a serving of potatoes, and eaten with knife, fork, and soup spoon.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Although you may make the egg yolk and cream liaison, pour it over the chicken, and reheat later, it is safer to keep the poached chicken warm, and finish the dish just before serving. Finished waterzooi risks curdling if you try to keep it warm; in other words, this is not a dish adaptable to complete ahead-of-time cookery.
Bouillabaisse de Poulet
[Chicken Poached in White Wine with Provençal Vegetables, Herbs, and Flavorings]
Famous and successful recipes have a way of turning up in other guises, chicken has a habit of wearing other costumes, and there should be nothing surprising about chicken swimming in the robust flavors of a bouillabaisse. Although the method here is almost the same as that for the previous poachings, the ingredients differ; we therefore outline all the steps. Serve this with steamed rice or boiled potatoes, French bread, and a strong young white wine like a Riesling or Pinot Blanc, a rather light red like Beaujolais or Mountain Red, or a rosé.
For 4 people
1) Preliminary cooking of vegetables
½ cup sliced onions
½ cup sliced white of leek (or more onion)
¼ cup olive oil
A heavy 3-quart flameproof casserole with cover
Cook the onions and leeks slowly with the oil in the covered casserole for about 10 minutes, stirring fairly frequently, until tender but not browned.
About 1½ cups tomato pulp (4 or 5 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and juiced, or a combination of fresh tomatoes and canned Italian-type plum tomatoes, drained and sieved)
2 cloves garlic, minced or mashed
While vegetables are cooking, prepare the tomatoes; when vegetables are tender, stir tomatoes in along with the garlic. Cover, and cook 5 minutes so that tomatoes will render their juices; then uncover, raise heat, and let juices almost entirely evaporate.
2) Poaching the chicken
2½ lbs. ready-cut chicken, prepared as described
Salt
When tomatoes are done, salt chicken lightly, and arrange in casserole, spreading vegetables around and on top. Cover and cook 10 minutes over moderate heat, turning once.
1½ cups dry white wine or 1 cup dry white French vermouth
About 2 cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth
1 bay leaf
½ tsp thyme
¼ tsp fennel seeds, crushed
2 pinches saffron threads
A 2-inch piece of dried orange peel, or ½ tsp bottled dried orange peel
Big pinch pepper
Pinch Cayenne pepper or drops Tabasco sauce
Salt as needed
Pour the wine or vermouth over the chicken, and enough stock or broth barely to cover the meat. Add the herbs and seasonings, bring to the simmer, and salt lightly as necessary. Cover casserole and simmer slowly either on top of the stove or in a preheated 325-degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until chicken is tender.
3) Serving
Tip casserole and skim off surface fat; remove bay leaf and orange peel, and carefully correct seasoning. Serve as is, from casserole, or arrange chicken and vegetables on a bed of steamed rice, decorate with parsley sprigs, and pass rest of cooking liquid separately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be kept warm for at least half an hour; set cover askew for air circulation and place in a 120-degree oven, on a hot-tray, or over barely simmering water. Do not overheat and let chicken overcook.
To serve cold or in aspic
This is delicious as a cold dish. When chicken is done, skim off surface fat, remove bay leaf and orange peel, and correct seasoning. When cool, cover and refrigerate for several hours. Scrape off congealed fat and serve the chicken as is; cooking stock will set lightly, like jellied consommé. (If you want a firmer jellied effect, strain cooking stock out of casserole when chicken is done, degrease completely, and dissolve in it 1 package [1 tablespoon] of gelatin for each 2 cups of liquid; pour back over the chicken and vegetables, and chill.)
VARIATIONS
Final touches—Rouille and Pistou
You might pass a rouille with the chicken—the garlic, pimento, and chili-pepper sauce given at the end of the bouillabaisse recipe in Volume I, page 52. Another excellent sauce would be the pistou, a fragrant combination of basil, tomato, garlic, and cheese that may either be incorporated into the cooking liquid just before serving, or be passed separately. Finally there is the marvelous garlic mayonnaise, aïoli, in the next variation.
Poulet en Bourride
[Bouillabaisse of Chicken with Aïoli Sauce]
What the Belgians do to chicken in their waterzooi, their rivals on the Mediterranean accomplish in a most Provençal manner. In fact, the two recipes are almost exact parallels—egg yolks and cream thicken the broth of the waterzooi, while it is egg yolks and olive oil for the bourride. This is a very rich and splendid dish; we would suggest only boiled potatoes to go with it, a very simple beginning to the meal, such as asparagus vinaigrette, and a sherbet or fruits for dessert. A strong, dry white wine like Burgundy or Côtes-du-Rhône would be our suggestion for wine.
Poach the chicken exactly as described for the bouillabaisse of chicken, here, Steps 1 and 2; skim off surface fat, and keep chicken warm. While it simmers, prepare the aïoli as follows.
The aïoli sauce
⅓ cup (lightly pressed) fresh crumbs from nonsweetened, homemade-type white bread
Wine vinegar
A heavy bowl or mortar, a pestle or wooden masher, and wire whip
6 to 8 large cloves garlic, mashed
½ tsp salt
6 egg yolks
¾ to 1 cup olive oil
Following the procedure for aïoli sauce in Volume I, page 92, moisten the crumbs with drops of vinegar and pound to a paste in the bowl or mortar. Add garlic and salt, and continue pounding until smooth. Then add egg yolks and pound until thick and sticky. Finally begin beating in drops of olive oil; when sauce is thick and heavy, thin with vinegar, and continue beating in oil with wire whip. Season to taste, and cover airtight until ready to use.
Combining chicken and aïoli
A ladle
Optional: a warm soup tureen
Wide soup plates
Rather roughly chopped fresh parsley
When chicken is done and just before you are ready to serve, remove from heat. Gradually ladle driblets of the hot chicken-cooking liquid into the aïoli sauce, beating sauce with wire whip; when a cup of liquid has gone in, pour mixture back into chicken and vegetables, swirling casserole with one hand as you do so, to blend.
Set casserole over moderate heat and continue to swirl it slowly for 4 to 5 minutes, until sauce thickens into a light cream; be careful not to heat sauce to the simmer or it will turn granular as the egg yolks scramble, but you must heat it to the point where it thickens. Serve immediately, either from casserole or turned into a tureen; decorate with parsley.
Like waterzooi, the chicken and the souplike sauce are ladled into soup plates, along with a serving of potatoes, and eaten with knife, fork, and soup spoon.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: See remarks for waterzooi.
WHOLE CHICKEN
CASSEROLE-POACHED CHICKEN
Poularde Pochée à Court Mouillement
Roasting and stewing are not the only ways to cook a whole chicken; there are also casserole roasting, which produces the savory brown poulet poêlé à l’estragon and its variations in Volume I, pages 249–53, and casserole poaching, for those times when you wish to serve a whole chicken with one of the many white-wine sauces. This is called pocher à court mouillement because the chicken is set in a casserole that will just hold it, and the poaching liquid comes only part way up—the dark meat of the legs and thighs simmers and the white meat of the breast steams. This gives you not only a beautifully tender and juicy chicken, but also a perfectly flavored white-wine chicken broth for a sauce, or, if you are serving the chicken cold, for your aspic or chaud-froid. You may cook the chicken with or without stuffing, and serve it any number of ways. We begin with chicken in a white-wine and tarragon sauce.
THE CHICKEN TO BUY—PREPARING IT FOR POACHING
Roasting chickens and capons are best for casserole poaching because their flesh is mature enough to hold up under the steam and moisture; however, if you are careful to maintain a slow and gentle simmer, you may use a large fryer, 3½ pounds ready-to-cook. Broilers are far too immature; their tender flesh falls apart in the casserole.
To prepare the chicken for cooking, first remove the package of giblets from inside the cavity. The giblets should include the liver, heart, gizzard, and neck. If you are not stuffing the chicken, you may season the liver and return it to the cavity to cook and serve with the chicken, or save it for another purpose. Reserve the rest of the giblets for the casserole; they will give added flavor to the broth.
Pull loose fat from around inside of vent opening; you may render it, and use for general cooking or for rubbing over the chicken instead of butter. Cut off nubbins attached to wing elbows and, to make carving easier, remove the wishbone by cutting around its forked outline from inside the neck end of the chicken, then break its two ends loose from bottom of breast and pull it free. Run cold water all around inside and outside of chicken, and dry thoroughly with paper towels. (We were not enthusiastic about washing chickens in Volume I; we now think it is a wise precaution.) After you have inserted whatever flavoring or stuffing is called for, truss the chicken as illustrated in Volume I, pages 237–9 (or in less detail here).
POULARDE POCHÉE À L’ESTRAGON
[Casserole-poached Chicken with White-wine and Tarragon Sauce]
A fine roasting chicken is a poularde in French, and capon is chapon; either one is recommended for this delicious recipe. Rather than a stuffing, we have suggested an herbal flavoring inside the chicken, which is typical of many French recipes; if you do wish a stuffing, see the variations at the end of the recipe as well as the list of stuffings.
Nothing that accompanies the chicken should mask the lovely flavor of the tarragon, and with this in mind, we would suggest steamed rice and the garniture of mushrooms and onions used for chicken fricassee (Volume I, page 260); or either the unusual rice and onion soubise in Volume I on page 485 or the stuffed onions, with buttered peas or asparagus tips. This is definitely an occasion for one of the great white Burgundy wines.
For 5 to 6 people
1) Preparations for poaching
½ cup each of sliced carrots and sliced onions
2 Tb butter
A heavy enameled casserole or roaster just large enough to hold the chicken comfortably breast-up
Preheat oven to 325 degrees in time for Step 2. Cook the onions and carrots in the covered casserole, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender but not brown. Meanwhile, prepare the chicken as follows.
A 4½ lb. ready-to-cook roasting chicken or capon
3 Tb soft butter (half for inside and half for outside of chicken)
½ tsp salt (for inside and outside of chicken)
A medium-sized branch of fresh tarragon, or 1 tsp fragrant dried tarragon
Prepare chicken for roasting as described in paragraph preceding recipe, but before trussing it, sprinkle with half the salt, and add the tarragon; then truss the chicken. When vegetables are tender, massage the rest of the butter into the chicken skin, sprinkle with remaining salt, and arrange the chicken breast-up in the casserole.
1⅓ cups dry white wine, or 1 cup dry white French vermouth
2 or more cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth
1 bay leaf
6 parsley sprigs
A medium-sized branch of fresh tarragon, or ½ Tb fragrant dried tarragon
The washed chicken giblets (neck, gizzard, heart, wing nubbins, wishbone)
Salt as needed
A double thickness of well-washed and rinsed damp cheesecloth to cover chicken breast and thighs
2 Tb soft butter
Waxed paper
Pour the wine into the casserole, and enough chicken stock or broth to reach about ⅓ the way up the chicken. Add the herbs, and giblets. Bring to simmer on top of the stove, taste liquid, and salt lightly, as needed. Drape the damp, washed cheesecloth over the breast and thighs; it should be long enough to fall into the liquid all around so that it will draw the broth over the chicken and baste it during the cooking. Smear the butter over the cheesecloth, top with waxed paper, cover the casserole, and set in middle level of preheated oven.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You may arrange the chicken in the casserole with wine, broth, cloth, and trimmings, then refrigerate, and poach it the next day.
2) Poaching the chicken—1 hour and 30 to 40 minutes at 325 degrees
After chicken has been in the oven about 20 minutes, check casserole to be sure liquid is at the very slow simmer—if liquid bubbles actively, flesh can break apart. Regulate thermostat accordingly; except for making sure cooking is slow and gentle, you have nothing more to do until chicken is done.
When chicken flesh is tender if pressed and drumsticks move in their sockets, chicken should be ready. Test by lifting it carefully (use trussing strings between thighs and elbows) and drain juices onto a white plate; if last drops to come out are clear yellow with no trace of rose, chicken is definitely done.
3) The sauce—sauce à l’estragon—for 2½ cups
A sieve set over a 2½- to 3-quart stainless saucepan
4 Tb butter
A second 2½- to 3-quart saucepan, heavy-bottomed and enameled or stainless
5 Tb flour
A wooden spoon and a wire whip
When chicken is done and juices have been drained from vent, set it on a platter or side dish. Strain cooking stock into saucepan, pressing juices out of ingredients in sieve; skim surface fat off stock. Return chicken to casserole with a cup of the cooking stock, replace cheesecloth, set casserole cover askew, and keep chicken warm, either in turned-off oven, on a hot-tray, or over barely simmering water while you prepare a sauce velouté.
Bring cooking stock to the simmer, skimming off additional fat, and maintain at slow simmer while making the roux: melt butter in saucepan, blend in flour with wooden spoon, and stir over moderate heat until butter and flour foam together for 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat, and as soon as roux stops bubbling, pour in 2 cups of the hot chicken stock, blending vigorously with wire whip. When smooth, return over moderate heat and stir rather slowly with wire whip as sauce thickens and comes to the boil. Boil, stirring, for 2 minutes—sauce will be quite thick.
½ to ⅔ cup heavy cream
Salt, white pepper, and drops of lemon juice
2 to 4 Tb soft butter
Simmering the sauce, pour in ⅓ cup of the cream, and add successive spoonfuls until sauce thins out but is still thick enough to coat a spoon nicely. Taste very carefully for seasoning, adding salt, white pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Just before serving, remove from heat and beat in the enrichment butter by spoonfuls.
4) Serving
A hot, lightly buttered serving platter
Either 10 to 12 large fresh tarragon leaves dropped 30 seconds in boiling water and laid on a plate;
Or slices of truffle or fluted and cooked mushrooms, and parsley or watercress if needed
A warmed sauce bowl
Remove trussing strings from chicken, and set it on platter; wipe up any juices. Spoon enough sauce over chicken to mask it attractively, and decorate with tarragon leaves or whatever you have chosen. Pour rest of sauce into bowl. Make a presentation of the chicken to your guests, who will want to admire it. Then, if it is not to be carved at the table, carve in the kitchen; arrange the pieces over a bed of rice, and spoon a little of the sauce over each. Decorate again with tarragon leaves or whatever you have chosen, and serve.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You may keep the chicken warm for half an hour at least as suggested at the end of the first part in Step 3. Complete the sauce except for the final butter enrichment, clean sauce off sides of pan with a rubber spatula, and dot a tablespoon of soft butter on surface of sauce, spreading it lightly and evenly with the back of a spoon; keep sauce warm, uncovered, over simmering water.
TO SERVE COLD
Poularde en Chaud-froid—Poularde en Gelée
[Chicken in Chaud-froid—Chicken in Aspic]
The tender fragrant quality of chicken poached in white wine and the excellence of its cooking broth made it ideal for chaud-froid or simply chicken in aspic. For chaud-froid, you might use half the broth for an initial creamy coating on the chicken pieces following either the cream and egg-yolk sauce, or the recipe in Volume I, page 551, with cream and gelatin. You could then decorate the chicken with tarragon leaves, and glaze with clear aspic made from the rest of the broth. Full directions for chaud-froids are in this vo lume and in Volume I as indicated; see aspics in this volume, and page 549 in Volume I.
STUFFED CHICKEN—BONED CHICKEN
When you want to serve stuffed chicken, either roasted or poached, it is easier to carve it if you bone the breast of the raw chicken, meaning that you slit the skin and peel it back from the breast, remove the meat, and cut out the breastbone and upper half of the ribs. This gives you a boat-shaped trough; its bottom is formed by the backbone, and its sides by the lower ribs, the wings, and the legs. Pile the stuffing into the trough, top with breast meat cut into strips, fold the skin back into place, and the chicken is reconstituted again for cooking. To serve, cut right down the length of the breast to reveal white meat and stuffing, while the legs and wings come off in the usual way. Because white meat picks up flavor when in direct contact with the stuffing, most of the dark-meat-only people will shift over to “a little of both, please.” You will also find this semiboning a successful way to treat the enormous breasts of modern turkeys, and a turkey is boned exactly like chicken (see illustration).
VOLAILLE DEMI-DÉSOSSÉE
[Half-boned Chicken—also for Turkey, Other Poultry, and Game Birds]
Set chicken breast-up, and with a sharp knife, slit the skin from neck to tail, following ridge of breastbone. With your fingers, peel the skin back from the breast first on one side, then on the other, going down to the shoulders and the second joints to expose the whole expanse of breast. |
Starting on one side of ridge of breastbone, cut through flesh to bone all along its length from neck end to tail. Always angling the cutting edge of knife against bone and not against flesh, continue cutting down against outward curve of breastbone and then against ribs, pulling flesh from bone with your fingers as you cut. Be careful not to slit skin at sides of breast as you release meat from lower rib cage; cut off the meat where it joins the ball joint of the wing at the shoulder, and you have removed one side of the breast meat. Remove the other side in the same manner. |
With heavy shears and starting at the tail end, cut through the upper half of the breastbone-rib structure midway on each side, where the backward-slanting top ribs join the forward-slanting bottom ribs. Continue the cut through the V-shaped bone at the neck end, and the breastbone is freed.
With the breastbone removed, you now have a boat-shaped open cavity to fill with stuffing. The 2 boneless pieces of meat, one removed from each side of the breast, are called suprêmes, and each is composed of 2 layers. The larger layer is the filet; the smaller layer is the filet mignon. On the underside of each filet mignon is a clearly visible white tendon. Grasp the end of it in a towel held in one hand; slit flesh on either side with a small knife and, scraping it against your knife as you gently pull, draw it out; repeat for the second tendon.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you are not ready to stuff the chicken at this point, place the suprêmes in the cavity, draw the chicken skin over them, wrap the chicken, and refrigerate it. Chop up the breastbone and add it to your chicken stock.
When you are ready to stuff the chicken, cut the breast meat into strips ⅜ inch wide. (You may wish to marinate them in oil, herbs, and wine or drops of lemon juice, or in Cognac as suggested in the following recipe.)
Raise the legs upright, then flex them, pushing knees against armpits (where wings join shoulders). Run a skewer or knitting needle through the carcass at knees as shown; this will hold legs in place for the rest of the operation. Mound whatever stuffing you have chosen in the cavity, building it into a dome at the front to simulate a full breast. Lay the strips of breast meat over the stuffing.
Fold the breast skin over the stuffing and breast meat, covering it completely. One edge of skin should overlap the other by ⅜ to ½ inch; remove a little stuffing if necessary. |
With white string and either an 8-inch trussing needle, a long mattress needle, or a plastic knitting needle with a hole drilled in the end, truss the chicken. |
1) Sew the 2 flaps of breast skin together as follows: start at the tail end, and leaving a 3-inch piece of string free at that end, stitch a straight line up to the neck. Turn the chicken over and sew the neck skin to the back, completely enclosing the stuffing at the neck end.
2) The second tie is to secure the lower part of the drumsticks and to close the vent opening. Push needle through the lower part of the carcass and the tail piece; come back through skin on top of one drumstick, through lower end of breast, and top of second drumstick. Pull string tight, and tie.
3) For the final tie, remove skewer, and go through carcass at the knees; fold wings akimbo and come back through the underside of one wing, through a bit of the backbone, then through the underside of the second wing. Pull string tight and tie.
Chicken is now ready for roasting, casserole roasting, or for the poularde poché, à la d’Albuféra, in the following recipe.
POULARDE À LA D’ALBUFÉRA
[Half-boned Chicken Stuffed with Foie Gras, Truffles, Chicken Livers, and Rice; Poached in White Wine; Sauce Suprême Pimentée]
One of the more famous chickens boned, stuffed, and poached in white wine is this one, created to honor Maréchal Suchet, who was made Duc d’Albuféra by a grateful Napoleon after the General’s victories in Spain. The dukedom, a large lagoon surrounded by rice fields with an outlet to the bay of Valencia, was lost in another battle the next year, 1813, but both duke and recipe retained their titles. Curiously enough, as a gastronomical aside to history, the grateful Spanish, in recognition of his role in returning the lost territories to them, awarded the revenues from the Albufera to the Duke of Wellington—perhaps at the very moment a famous filet of beef was being named after him. Numerous versions, as is always the way, exist for poularde à la d’Albuféra, and we have picked the one we prefer. Not all of them include a small pinch of saffron in the rice, but all do have a Spanish echo of pimento in the sauce.
The vegetable accompaniment should be fresh and simple, we think. Something like the parslied baked cucumbers in Volume I, page 500, or fresh new peas or asparagus tips, or the tender, peeled, fresh broccoli in the Vegetable Chapter. We prefer one of the great white Burgundies with this dish, or one of the lovely white Graves—Haut-Brion or La Mission-Haut-Brion.
For 6 people
1) Preparing the chicken
A 4½-lb. roasting chicken or capon
A dish to hold the strips of breast meat
1½ Tb each of dry port or dry (Sercial) Madeira, and Cognac
1 Tb very finely minced shallots or scallions
Freshly ground white pepper
Pinches of tarragon or thyme
1 or more 1-ounce cans of truffles
2 or more ounces canned foie gras en bloc (goose liver: read label on can), chilled for easy cutting
Following preceding directions, bone out the breast of the chicken. Cut breast meat into strips ⅜ inch wide and turn about in the dish with the wine, shallots, pepper, herbs, and the uncut truffles and their juice. Dipping your knife in hot water for each slice, cut the foie gras into ¼-inch dice; place at side of dish, and baste with the marinade. Cover marinade dish with plastic wrap, and refrigerate while making the stuffing; wrap and refrigerate the chicken.
2) The stuffing—farce à la d’Albuféra—for about 3½ cups
The chicken liver and heart (If you have the minimum of foie gras, add an extra chicken liver.)
A heavy-bottomed, 2- to 2½-quart enameled or stainless saucepan with cover
A large mixing bowl
¼ cup very finely minced onion
1 cup plain, raw, white, untreated rice
¼ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
1 ¾ cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth
A small pinch of saffron threads
A bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste
1 egg, lightly beaten
Cut the chicken liver or livers and heart into ¼-inch dice, and sauté over moderate heat in 1 tablespoon of the butter, just to stiffen them slightly; scrape into mixing bowl. Melt the rest of the butter in the pan, add the onions, and cook slowly, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes until fairly tender but not browned. Stir in the rice, and cook, stirring, for several minutes over moderate heat until rice turns translucent, then milky, indicating that the covering starch has coagulated. Pour in the wine and let cook for a moment to evaporate the alcohol.
Then pour in the chicken stock or broth, add the small pinch of saffron, the bay leaf, and bring to the simmer. Add salt and pepper as needed, stir up once, cover pan, and let cook at a moderately fast simmer, without touching it again, for 15 minutes. Rice should be almost but not quite done, needing only 2 to 3 minutes more cooking; liquid should have been entirely absorbed. Uncover pan, discard bay leaf, turn rice into mixing bowl, and let it cool to tepid. Stir in the egg.
Remove the truffles from their marinade, and cut into dice (or mince if you have only a small amount). Fold with a rubber spatula into the rice and chicken livers, and carefully correct seasoning. (Reserve the foie gras until next step.)
3) Stuffing and trussing the chicken
Salt cavity of chicken lightly, spread a layer of rice stuffing in it, and then a few pieces of the diced foie gras. Continue in layers, molding rice into a dome at the breast end. Cover with the breast strips, as illustrated, fold skin over breast, sew, and truss the chicken also as illustrated. (Reserve marinade juices.)
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If both stuffing and chicken are cold, you may stuff and truss the chicken a day in advance of cooking.
4) Poaching the chicken—1½ to 1¾ hours
Poach the chicken as directed in Steps 1 and 2, Master Recipe, here, but use a big pinch of thyme and a bay leaf rather than tarragon in the casserole.
5) The sauce
Make the sauce as described in Step 3 of the Master Recipe, but omit the tarragon, and stir the marinade liquid into it. Rather than enriching it with plain butter, use pimento butter as follows.
3 Tb canned red pimento
3 Tb soft butter
A fine-meshed sieve set over a bowl
A wooden spoon and a rubber spatula
Pinch of Cayenne pepper, or drops of Tabasco sauce
Drain the pimento and gently press out liquid. Rub it with the butter through the sieve, scraping all residue off bottom of sieve as well as banging sieve on bowl to dislodge as much as possible. Beat in Cayenne or Tabasco. Just before serving, remove sauce from heat and beat in the pimento butter, a tablespoon at a time.
6) Serving
When ready to serve, remove trussing strings and place chicken on platter. Spoon a little of the sauce over the chicken, and decorate as you wish, with truffle slices or fluted mushrooms. To carve, cut straight down through top of breast from neck end to tail end, and spread apart. Remove wings and legs. Remove breast meat with stuffing, using a serving spoon and fork, and give each guest both dark meat, light meat, and stuffing; spoon some of the sauce around or over each serving.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: See directions at end of Master Recipe.
OTHER STUFFINGS, OTHER SAUCES
Farce Évocation d’Albuféra
[Rice, Mushrooms, and Chicken-liver Stuffing with Purée of Garlic]
More Mediterranean in feeling than the original is the following stuffing for those occasions when you do not wish to indulge in truffles and foie gras.
For about 3½ cups, to fill a 4½-pound half-boned chicken
1 head of garlic
¼ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
1 cup chicken stock or canned chicken broth
A small covered saucepan
Separate the garlic cloves and drop into a pan of boiling water, boil 1 minute, drain, and slip off the peel. Then simmer the garlic cloves very slowly for 30 minutes with the wine and stock. Meanwhile, continue with the rest of the stuffing.
¼ pound fresh mushrooms, trimmed, washed, dried, and quartered (about 1 cup)
2 Tb minced shallots or scallions
1 Tb butter and 1 tsp oil
3 chicken livers, cut into ⅜-inch pieces
A heavy-bottomed 2½- to 3-quart enameled or stainless saucepan
¼ cup dry (Sercial) Madeira or dry port
A mixing bowl
Sauté the mushrooms and scallions in butter and oil over moderately high heat, tossing and turning, until fat reappears on surface of mushrooms; then add diced livers and sauté a minute more, tossing. Pour in the Madeira or port and boil rapidly until liquid is almost entirely evaporated. Scrape into mixing bowl.
2¼ to 2½ cups plain boiled white rice (¾ cup raw rice, boiled in salted water until barely tender)
¼ tsp thyme or oregano
1 egg, lightly beaten
The cooked garlic in its broth
A fine-meshed sieve
Salt and pepper to taste
Blend the rice, herbs, and egg into the mixing bowl. Drain cooked garlic, and mash through sieve into mixing bowl; blend in, along with 2 tablespoons of the cooking liquid. (Reserve rest of liquid for sauce, including it as part of the chicken-cooking stock.) Taste stuffing, and carefully correct seasoning.
Stuff, truss, and poach the chicken as directed in the preceding recipe; either make the same sauce with pimento-butter enrichment, or make a light curry sauce by stirring 2 teaspoons of fragrant curry powder into the butter as you make the roux, beginning of Step 3, Master Recipe.
Farce Normande, aux Boudins Blancs
[White Forcemeat Stuffing with Mushroom Duxelles]
Boudin blanc, with its ground chicken, veal, or pork and tenderly cooked onions, is so good one is always happy to find other uses for it. Use half the recipe here, but there is no need to encase the mixture in sausage skins: roll it, instead, into one big sausage shape in cheesecloth, as illustrated here; poach it in the wine and chicken stock you will use for poaching the chicken, making the stock even better than usual for your final sauce. Then proceed as follows.
The poached boudin described in preceding paragraph
About ½ cup cooked mushroom duxelles (finely diced mushrooms sautéed in butter), still in their sauté pan
2 Tb minced shallots or scallions
¼ cup dry (Sercial) Madeira or dry port wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut the boudin into ½-inch dice and set aside. Heat the duxelles with the shallots or scallions, tossing and turning over moderately high heat for 2 minutes to cook the shallots, then pour in the wine. Boil rapidly for a minute or two, to evaporate liquid almost completely. Taste, and carefully correct seasoning.
Stuff the chicken with layers of diced boudin interspersed with sprinklings of duxelles, and top with the slices of breast meat. Truss the chicken as illustrated, and poach as directed in the Master Recipe for chicken poached in white wine. Rather than flavoring the sauce with tarragon, you might make an additional ¼ cup of wine-flavored duxelles initially, and reserve it to simmer a moment in your finished sauce before adding the final butter enrichment. A sprinkling of minced fresh green herbs, such as parsley, tarragon, or chives could go in too at the last minute.
POULARDE EN SOUTIEN-GORGE COQ EN PÂTE—POULARDE EN CROÛTE
[Half-boned and Stuffed Chicken in a Pastry Crust]
Once you have boned, stuffed, and enrobed a coq en pâte, you may put it away in the refrigerator and bake it the next day. Amusing to prepare and always a success when served, it is a great dish for a party. Not only are the chicken’s breastworks removed, but its skin is also peeled off; thus the French title, soutien-gorge, is as primly nondescriptive as would be our brassiere; the German Bustenhalter would give a more exact explanation of what the pastry must do to hold the breast and stuffing in place during baking. The dough, pâte à croustades, is designed for something like a pâté or a chicken that must bake for an hour or more: the pastry is crisp, tender, and delicious to eat as well as being easy to handle; if you make it in the electric mixer you will find it very easy to do.
CHICKEN NOTES
Rather than the 4½-pound roaster or capon for 6, suggested in the recipe, you may use 3- to 3½-pound fryers, and 3 of them would serve 12 to 16 people. You will need only ½ the pastry recipe per frying chicken, and 2½ cups of stuffing. Roasting time for 1 frying chicken would be 1 hour and 20 to 30 minutes; for 3 chickens in one oven, probably 1¾ to 2 hours.
For 6 people
1) The pastry—made at least 2 hours before baking
Pastry formula 6, pâte à croustades
Make the pastry either by hand in the usual way, or by machine. Wrap and chill the dough for at least 2 hours, or overnight. (Any leftovers may be frozen, and used for turnovers or appetizer pastries.)
2) Preparing and stuffing the chicken
A 4½-lb. roasting chicken or capon
Slit the skin of the chicken along the breast bone from neck end to tail end; turn chicken over and slit skin from neck to tail ¼ inch from edge of backbone on each side.
Cut off wings at elbows. Then, except for strip of skin at backbone, peel the rest of the skin off the chicken. Being careful not to detach the following pieces from the chicken, cut through ball joints attaching wings to shoulders, second joints to hips, and drumsticks to second joints; this is to prevent these appendages from kicking through the pastry during cooking. Remove breast meat, and cut out upper half of breastbone-rib structure as illustrated here. Cut the breast meat in strips and marinate, if you wish, in wine and herbs as described in the Master Recipe, Step 1. Make a brown chicken stock with the giblets, skin, and scraps (Volume I, page 236).
3½ cups of any stuffing for chicken, the évocation d’Albuféra being particularly recommended
A skewer or knitting needle just long enough to go through carcass at knees and to protrude ¼ to ½ inch on each side
Following illustrated directions, stuff the chicken and lay the breast strips on top. Insert skewer as in the illustration, to keep legs in place during baking; it will be drawn out from the crust before serving.
3) Enclosing chicken in pastry
The chilled pastry from Step 1
White wine, or vermouth, or chicken stock; or the garlic-cooking liquid if you are using farce évocation d’Albuféra
A pastry brush
A shallow buttered roasting pan or edged baking sheet large enough to hold chicken easily
Egg glaze (1 egg beaten in a small bowl with 1 tsp water)
Preheat oven to 400 degrees in time for Step 4. Roll ⅔ of the pastry out on a lightly floured board, making an oval 3⁄16 inch thick and large enough to cover top and sides of chicken. Paint chicken with wine or stock, and press the pastry in place over the flesh. (Leave a small opening at one side or both for removal of skewer after baking.) Trim off any extra pastry, leaving only enough to cover sides of chicken completely. (Bare bottom of chicken rests on baking surface.)
Roll out pastry scraps, cut into whatever designs you wish, paint undersides with egg glaze, and affix to the pastry.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If both stuffing and chicken were cold before being combined, chicken may be covered, refrigerated, and baked the next day. Note, however, that roasting time may be 15 to 20 minutes longer than time indicated in Step 4.
4) Baking—1½ to 1¾ hours
The egg glaze and the pastry brush
Aluminum foil or brown paper
When oven has been preheated to 400 degrees, paint surface of pastry and decorations with egg glaze. Draw the point of a knife over glaze into pastry to make decorative cross-hatch marks.
Immediately set chicken in middle level of preheated oven. In 20 to 25 minutes, when pastry has begun to brown nicely, turn thermostat down to 350 degrees. Look again in another 30 minutes, and if pastry is browning too much, cover loosely with foil or brown paper. Chicken is close to being done when juices begin to exude in pan, and is definitely done when pan is removed, tipped, and last juices running from under crust are clear yellow with no trace of rose. As soon as chicken is done, remove from oven.
5) Sauce and serving
A lightly buttered serving platter
2 Tb minced shallots or scallions
¼ cup dry (Sercial) Madeira, dry port wine, or dry white French vermouth
A saucepan containing 1 cup of brown chicken stock (or a combination of chicken broth and beef bouillon)
½ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
If needed: 1 tsp cornstarch blended with 1 Tb stock or wine
2 to 3 Tb soft butter
A warm sauce boat
Remove chicken to serving platter, and carefully extract skewer that has held legs in place. Stir the shallots or scallions and wine into the juices in the roasting pan, set over moderate heat, and scrape up all coagulated bits of flavor into juices and wine with a wooden spoon. Scrape liquid into saucepan with the stock, and boil down rapidly to concentrate flavor. Add cream, and boil a few minutes to thicken lightly. (If it seems necessary, remove from heat, beat in cornstarch mixture, and simmer 2 minutes more to thicken.) Carefully correct seasoning. Just before serving, remove from heat and swirl in butter a half spoonful at a time. (You will have only a cup, just enough to moisten each serving.)
To serve, cut straight down through top of crust from neck to tail, and spread crust to sides of chicken. Remove legs and wings, and cut into serving pieces. Give each guest both white and dark meat, stuffing, and a piece of the crust; spoon a bit of the sauce over or around the meat.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You may keep chicken warm for an hour, if necessary; let it sit out at room temperature for 20 minutes, then keep in a 120-degree oven (or in the turned-off oven, reheating briefly from time to time if necessary).
CHAPTER FIVE
Charcuterie: Sausages, Salted Pork and Goose, Pâtés and Terrines
THE FOUNDATION AND MAINSTAY of French charcuterie is pork in all its forms, from sausages and stuffings to hams, pâtés, and terrines. Chair cuite, meaning meat that is cooked, was obviously the derivation of this marvelous keystone of French civilization, but modern charcuterie shops, like American delicatessens, have branched out and sell all manner of edibles, such as aspics and ready-to-heat escargots, heat-and-serve lobster dishes, ready-made salads, mayonnaise, relishes, canned goods, fine wines, and liqueurs. In the best establishments, all the cooking is done on the premises; they cure their own hams, make their own salt pork and fresh and smoked sausages, have their own formulas for their beautiful display of pâtés. Let us all pray that this delicious way of life will long remain, because there are few things more satisfying to the soul than the look and smell of a French charcuterie.
SAUSAGES
Saucisses et Saucissons
With the virtual disappearance of European-style neighborhood charcuteries in this country, it behooves every serious cook to have a few sausage formulas on hand for such delicious concoctions as saucisson en croûte, saucisson en brioche, saucisson chaud et pommes à l’huile—that wonderfully simple dish of hot, sliced sausages and potato salad—little pork sausages for breakfast and garnitures, and those lovely white-meat sausages with truffles, boudins blancs. A sausage is only ground meat and seasonings, a mixture no more complicated than a meat loaf, and for fresh unsmoked sausages you need no special equipment at all. An electric meat grinder and a heavy-duty mixer will make things easier, but a sausage-stuffing mechanism and sausage casings are not necessary because you can use other means to arrive at the sausage shape. In French terminology a saucisse is primarily a small and thin sausage, usually fresh, and a saucisson is a large sausage usually smoked or otherwise cured; the one may be called the other, however, if it is a question of size. Here are directions for forming them in casings and a practical substitute for casings, as well as a short discussion on caul fat.
SAUSAGE CASINGS
Natural sausage casings, the flexible, tubular membrane that holds the sausage together and forms its skin, are made from the thoroughly scraped and cleaned intestines of hogs, cattle, and sheep, of the stomachs of hogs, and of the bladders of all three. Sheep casings are the most valuable and expensive of all, and also the most fragile; varying in diameter from ⅝ to 1 inch, they are used mostly for fresh pork breakfast sausages and the small cocktail or garnishing sausages called chipolatas. Beef casings are for large sausages like bolognas, salamis, and blood sausages, and middle sizes like cervelats and mettwursts. Hog casings come in various lengths and widths: bungs (gros boyaux), or the large intestine; hog middles (fuseaux), or the middle intestines; small casings (les menus), which are the small intestine.
The most practical and easily obtainable for the home sausage stuffer are small hog casings, the kind your butcher uses to make his fresh pork sausages or fresh Italian sausages. If he cannot supply you with a few pieces, he can order them for you; or look up in the classified telephone directory under Sausage Casings or Butcher’s Supplies. Ask for a set of small hog casings, medium width. You will get a bundle of 16 to 18 casings, each 20 feet long, which are twisted into a complicated swirl resembling wet spaghetti. To disentangle the pieces, unwind the set on a very large table. Then start with one piece from the middle and gently pull it through the maze, first on one side, then on the other. Disentangle all the pieces, winding each up on your fingers as you do so, like string. Pack the pieces between layers of coarse salt in a large screw-top jar and store in the refrigerator. They will keep safely for years as long as they are well covered with salt.
Before using a piece of casing, wash it off in cold water, then soak for one but not more than two hours in cold water. Any casing you do not use may be thoroughly rinsed inside and out, wound up again, and repacked with salt in your casing container.
How to use sausage casing
Casing is ideal for sausages because it holds the meat in perfect symmetry; the problem is finding a way to get the meat into these marvelous containers. Professionals use a stuffing machine, poussoir, which is a large cylinder with a pushing plate at one end and a nozzle at the other: the meat goes into the cylinder, the casing is slid up the outside of the nozzle, and a crank operates the plate, pushing the meat from the cylinder through the nozzle and into the casing, which slowly and evenly fills with meat as it slides off the nozzle. There are home models available from some butcher supply houses and mail-order sources; anyone going into serious sausage making should certainly have one, since alternatives can only be makeshift and more or less successful depending on your sausage mixture. Here are the alternatives, including hand stuffer, meat grinder, and pastry bag. You will work out your own system.
Whichever of the three methods you choose, you will need a nozzle of some sort onto the outside of which you slide the sausage casing. This can be a funnel, the metal tube that fits a professional-size pastry bag, or a regular sausage stuffing nozzle; whatever it is, we shall call it by its official name, stuffing horn. After the sausage casing has soaked for an hour in cold water, cut it into 2- to 3-foot lengths so it will be easy to deal with.
Wet horn in cold water; fit one end of a piece of casing onto the small end. |
Hold the large end of the horn under a slowly running faucet of cold water, and push casing up outside with your fingers, being careful not to tear casing with your fingernails. If you have cut casing into lengths, string them all onto the horn, one after the other. To permit freedom of action, always leave 3 to 4 inches of empty casing dangling from end of horn and, unless your sausage mixture is very soft and liable to dribble out, do not knot end of casing until the whole length is filled. |
With the casing in place, you are now ready to stuff it. Have in mind how long you want your sausages to be, how many, if any, you want linked together, and if they are to be linked, whether the meat mixture is soft enough so that you can safely twist the filled casing into lengths without bursting it. This is mostly a matter of trial and error; if you want no errors and have plenty of casing, fill and either link or cut and tie one sausage at a time. To minimize air spaces and bubbles, watch casing carefully as you are filling it; when air spaces develop, push filled casing against end of horn to force air back into stuffer. In severe instances, when you are making linked sausages, you will have to cut the casing, tie it, and start a new series of links.
A pastry bag works surprisingly well for either stiff or soft sausage mixtures. You will need 2 metal tubes 2 inches long with ½-inch openings at the small end. One is holding the casing around its outside; the other is fitted inside a 12- to 14-inch bag. |
This oversize hypodermic consists of wooden plunger, cylinder, and detachable horn. It works well for soft mixtures like the boudin blanc. |
For stiffer blends, you have to brace the end of the tube against the edge of a table. A pastry bag is easier in this case.
A stuffing horn of plastic or metal 4 inches long, ¾ inch in diameter at the small end, and 2¼ at the large end fits most grinders of the type illustrated here. They often come as extra equipment, or can be ordered from butcher or mail-order houses. |
Sometimes the grinder is operated with cutting knife (a) and disk (b) as well as horn (c), and sometimes not; if you have no instructions, you will have to try both ways. Some meat grinders work fairly well as sausage stuffers; others are maddeningly unsatisfactory.
Operate meat grinder at slow speed if it is electric, and hold casing horizontal with horn as meat goes in; this is to avoid air bubbles. When sausage meat has gone into casing, slip a free 3 or 4 inches of empty casing from horn and cut off with scissors. |
Tie a knot in the casing close against the meat at each end. For linked sausages, twist slowly and carefully to make the separations. Tie a piece of white string at each separation. |
HOW TO FORM SAUSAGES IN CHEESECLOTH CASINGS
Cheesecloth works very well indeed as an alternative to professional casing when it is of no aesthetic importance that the sausage be perfectly symmetrical, such as those to be baked in pastry, served in slices, or crumbed and broiled. The following illustrations are for small sausages; large ones are formed in the same way.
As an example, for 5-inch sausages, provide yourself with sufficient pieces of well-washed, damp, double-thickness cheesecloth about 8 inches square, and sufficient 4-inch pieces of white string to secure the 2 ends of each. Form sausages one at a time. Start by spreading cheesecloth on a tray and painting it with melted lard or shortening. |
Form a neat rectangular loaf of sausage meat 5 inches long on lower end of cheesecloth. |
Smooth meat into a cylindrical shape; roll up tightly and neatly in cheesecloth. |
Tie one end securely with white string. Twist other end of cheesecloth to pack meat into place, tie it with string, and the casing is finished. These sausages are often refrigerated for 2 hours or so to firm them up before anything else is done to them. |
CAUL FAT
A marvelously useful product of the hog is its caul fat (crêpine, toilette), the spider-web-like membrane laced with fat that lines the visceral cavity. Caul fat makes a perfect and perfectly edible container for the fresh sausage patties called saucisses plates or crêpinettes. You can use caul fat instead of casing for boudins, for the large sausages you bake in brioche dough, and it is marvelous for wrapping up the stuffed tenderloin, meats roasted in a cloak of mushroom duxelles, or the noisettes de veau. Although American manufacturers use it for the occasionally made Devonshire sausages, caul fat is so little known to the general public in this country that unless you have a European butcher in your shopping area, you will have to order it. As caul fat will keep 2 months or more in the freezer, get several pieces while you are at it; each will average 30 inches square.
SALT AND SPICES
Seasoning is always an important part of sausage making and of charcuterie in general, since this is what gives the meat character, making your own brand different from any other. Furthermore, the salt and spices that enter into the preparation retard oxidation in the meat and are thus preservatives. French recipes often specify simply épices, sel épicé, or quatre épices, meaning use your own spice formula. The old standby, quatre épices, is a bottled mixture available everywhere in France; the four spices are usually pepper, clove, ginger or cinnamon, and nutmeg. Sel épicé is spiced salt that is usually 2 parts white pepper and 2 parts mixed spices for every 10 parts of salt.
You will find it useful to have your own spice mixture that you can keep at hand in a screw-top jar. Use it not only for sausages but for pâtés, meat loaf, as a marinade before cooking pork chops, and so forth. Here is a suggested formula: be sure all items are fresh-tasting and fragrant.
1 Tb each: bay, clove, mace, nutmeg, paprika, thyme
1½ tsp each: basil, cinnamon, marjoram or oregano, sage, savory
½ cup white peppercorns
If ingredients are not finely ground, either pulverize in an electric blender or a coffee grinder (finest grind), then pass through a fine-meshed sieve, and repulverize any residue.
For each 6 cups (3 lbs.) of meat mixture: Suggested proportions of spice and salt
1 level tsp (2 grams) épices fines
Plus other flavors such as more pepper, garlic, more of a specific herb, and so forth, depending on your taste and recipe
For fresh sausages, pâté mixtures, and stuffings: 1 level Tb (½ ounce) table salt
For sausages that are to be air-dried 2 or more days: 1½ Tb table salt
NOTE: These proportions are what seem correct to us. Salts and spices vary in strength, and you may find you prefer a little more or a little less per pound.
PORK CUTS AND PORK FAT FOR SAUSAGES
Sausages, and charcuterie in general, are a byproduct of butchering. If you raise your own hogs and do your own butchering, you will have all the lean meat you need out of the trimmings from hams, loins, necks, and other large pieces. You will have, as well, the various types of fat, such as the hard fat from the back of the hog between the meat of the loin and the skin; this is the fatback, which is used not only for sausages and pâtés but also for larding roasts. You will have the leaf lard, almost impossible to find nowadays, which comes from inside the hog around the kidneys. You will have fat from the jowl, the neck, the belly, the hams, and the shoulders. Those of us not so fortunate have to buy retail cuts from the butcher or the supermarkets; our sausages will be a little more expensive to make, but they will be far better than anything we can buy because we will be using fresh meat of the best quality.
Unless your market goes in for foreign or regional cuts or you live in a pork-eating area, you may have only the loin to work with. However, you can buy a large piece from the shoulder end, bone it out, roast or sauté the lean pieces, and turn the rest into sausage.
Rather than the difficult-to-find fatback, you may use fat trimmed from the outside of a loin roast; it works well because it is neither too soft nor too hard. Fat trimmed from the outside of fresh hams and shoulders is less desirable because a little soft, but it is quite usable when you have no alternatives. If you have a fat-and-lean cut like boneless shoulder butt, make a guess at the proportion of fat to lean and add whichever is lacking according to your recipe requirements. One cup of meat or of fat is approximately ½ pound.
CHAIR À SAUCISSE
[Plain Pork Sausage Meat—for Sausage Cakes, Breakfast Sausages, Chipolatas, and as a Stuffing Ingredient for Pâtés, Poultry, and So Forth]
It is so easy to make your own sausage meat and it is so good that you will wonder, once you have made it, why you ever were so foolish as to buy it. Usual French proportions of fat to lean are one to one; you may cut it down to 1 part fat and 2 parts lean, particularly when you are using the retail pork cuts suggested here rather than trimmings; less fat than this will give you less tender sausages.
For 6 cups (3 lbs.) sausage-meat mixture
1) The sausage mixture
2 lbs. (4 cups) lean fresh pork meat such as fresh ham, shoulder, or loin
1 lb. (2 cups) fresh pork fat, such as fatback, fat trimmed from loin roast, or fresh leaf fat
A meat grinder
A heavy-duty mixer with flat beater blade, or large bowl and wooden spoon
1 Tb salt
1 tsp épices fines or ½ tsp white pepper and ½ tsp pulverized mixed herbs and spices to your taste
Put meat and fat through finest blade of meat grinder; for a very smooth mixture, you may put it through the grinder again. If you have a heavy-duty mixer, beat thoroughly with the seasonings until very well blended. Otherwise, blend thoroughly with a wooden spoon and/or your hands, first dipping them in cold water. To test for flavor, sauté a small spoonful for several minutes until cooked through; taste, and add more seasoning if you feel it necessary, but remember that the spice flavor will not develop to its full in the meat for 12 hours or more.
Sausage Cakes or Sausage Roll. Either form into sausage cakes with a wet spatula on waxed paper, or with your hands, dipping them in cold water frequently; then, if you wish, wrap cakes in caul fat. Or form into a cylinder 2 inches in diameter in cheesecloth as illustrated at the beginning of this section and chill; then unwrap and cut into cakes. Sauté slowly in a frying pan until nicely browned and thoroughly cooked through.
Sausage Links and Chipolatas. For these you should have narrow sheep casings ⅝ inch in diameter, if you can get them. Breakfast links are usually 3 inches long; chipolatas, the tiny sausages used for cocktails and garnitures, 1½ to 2 inches. Form as illustrated at the beginning of this section. To cook, prick in several places with a pin and place in a frying pan with ½ inch of water, cover and cook at just below the simmer for 5 minutes or until sausages have stiffened slightly. Pour off water and sauté, turning frequently, until nicely browned.
BOUDIN BLANC
[White-meat Sausages—Chicken and Veal or Chicken and Pork Forcemeat Stuffing]
White-meat sausages abound across the Atlantic, from the German and Swiss bratwursts and weisswursts to England’s quaintly titled white puddings. It has even been suggested that the French boudin and the English pudding sprang from a single etymological root. The boudin is more like a quenelle than a sausage, delicate in flavor and texture. In France, where a truffled boudin is traditional at the midnight Reveillon of Christmas and New Year, mashed potatoes is the accompaniment. However, you may treat them like roast chicken or roast veal, adding green vegetables to the platter, such as creamed spinach, broccoli, peas, braised endive, or whatever else you feel appropriate.
For about 6 cups, making 10 to 12 boudins, 5 by 1¼ inches
1) The sausage mixture
the pork fat:
½ cup (4 ounces) fresh pork leaf fat, outside loin fat, or fatback
A meat grinder with finest blade
An 8-inch frying pan with cover
Put the pork fat through the grinder. Return half to top of grinder. Cook the rest in the frying pan over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes until it has rendered 2 to 3 tablespoons of fat but has not browned at all.
3 cups (¾ lb.) sliced onions
(If you wish a mild onion flavor, drop them into 2 quarts of boiling water and boil 4 minutes; drain, rinse in cold water, and thoroughly shake off excess water.) Add onions to pork fat and fat pieces in frying pan, cover and cook very slowly, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes or more; they should be perfectly tender and translucent, but no more than a pale cream in color.
la panade:
½ cup (1½ ounces pressed down) stale white crumbs from unsweetened homemade-type bread
1 cup milk
A heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan
A wooden spoon
The large bowl of your electric mixer, or a 3-quart bowl
Meanwhile, bring the bread crumbs and milk to the boil and boil, stirring constantly with wooden spoon to prevent scorching, for several minutes until mixture is thick enough almost to hold its shape on the spoon. (This is now a panade, in the true and original sense of the word.)
the final mixture:
½ lb. (1 cup) skinless and boneless raw breast of chicken
½ lb. (1 cup) lean fresh veal or pork from shoulder or loin
2 tsp salt
⅛ tsp each: nutmeg, allspice, and white pepper
1 egg
⅓ cup egg whites (2–3 egg whites)
½ cup heavy cream
Optional: A 1-ounce truffle and juices from the can
When onions are tender, pass them with the remaining pork fat, the chicken, and the veal or pork through grinder twice. Place in mixing bowl, add seasonings, and beat vigorously in the electric mixer or by hand until well blended. Beat in the egg and continue beating for 1 minute, then beat in half the egg whites, and in another minute the remainder of the egg whites. Finally, beat in the cream 2 tablespoons at a time, beating a minute between additions. If you are using a truffle, mince it into ⅛-inch pieces and beat it in along with juices from the can.
To check seasoning, sauté a small spoonful until cooked through, taste, and add more if you feel it is necessary, but remember that